nta16

Using the correct oxygen sensor socket for that sensor will help and not too much or indirect leverage. My choice of penetrating/releasing agents are PlusGas or better still for this and other general longer lasting lubrication GT85. Obviously you don't want to be drip gravity feeding or spraying any stuff on a warm or hot exhaust (or spilling any 3-In-one oil on a cold exhaust, wow the fumes off that next time you start the engine, guess how I know).

Yes they will both probably be inaccurate by similar amounts. 😁

ETA; The sensor can also be tested on a scan tool or with a multimeter to confirm if it might be at fault. Cheap Chinese sensors are a gamble often and even aftermarket parts can be less than perfect match, personally I would go for a good Japanese make, which it maybe from factory.

Be aware that some people just take an error code from a scan tool as the answer, which sometimes it can be but not always, it may be from where the issue is reported rather than the cause of the issue and replacing the reporting sensor can be shooting the messenger. Also be aware German marques particularly, including our dear VW, have always thought it clever to have very complex, intertwined and involved (and interfering) computer programs so the scan tool has to have specific programs for the VW model and year, this is more so with cheap and/or generic code readers and scan tools. Plus the programs have to be up to date or errors or misinformation can be presented, many scan tool owners and mechanics/technicians, engineers, can be too arrogant and/or lazy to be bothered to update scan tool programs.

I would not fully rely on any free or low-priced phone App but it should give a reasonable general idea of heat differences for general home use, again different surfaces can throw off less reliable readings.

I don't mean a scanner, a scanner is not the only diagnostics tool available and most time not the first diagnostics tool you should use, I meant the "smart" phone (they're not) App(?) that gives thermal imagining and temperatures could be used as a diagnostic tool sometimes, I'm sure there will be some videos of some Americans using this to demonstrate what I mean. I'll wait for winter results, see if 3:47 remains or returns or it extends.

Can't remember the word but IIRC that could give inaccurate readings on what you're bouncing it off. Apparently if you have one of these "smart" phones (they are not) you can put on something that gives thermal images and temperature for low cost, also use as another diagnostic tool sometimes.

It's not rocket science, just "Simply NOT Clever", things are a LOT easier if you get a car designed with these, beneath the German engineers obviously but available from others -

Loads of info on the site about using Erwin, I've never used it. There's something about you can pay 7 euros and have a frenzied download of loads of info on all sorts as long as you have the recording and storage equipment all ready for the flood of info. But I'd guess if you have an account it depends on the type of account what you can get and do. Last independent garage we tok my wife's VW product to for a service balls'd up the entry and said there was no choice in the drop down menu for what had previously been entered by the Dealerships, this garage listed it as IIRC "Inspection" but you know what it's like with garages / mechanics / engineers they can never admit to themselves let alone others when they make a mistake.

Shown - "brake fluid service", (I've no idea about DSG (thank gawd)), "dust and air filter" - cabin filter, "air cleaner element" - engine air filter, "spark plug" -hopefully it means more than singular, and "Recall" - a rare event a VW admitted recall. I don't know if the rip-off, unnecessary (£429) rubber cambelt change is listed as the last "Complete record" my wife got was just before the robbing bastards done so, plus my wife can't stand to be in the place any longer than absolutely necessary and hasn't asked for the print-out of the "Complete record" that I request her to get.

Ask for the "complete record" have it printed out, pay nothing nor offer to, it your VWSkoda car, they are VW Skoda Dealers.

You buy on condition and inspection, road test perhaps, knowledge obtained from places like Briskoda where owners have owned the model and actually used it, in and out of warranty if the model is older enough. You can say which engine it has and find out if any engine have particular flaws, same for gearbox, suspension etc.. Of course you do need to be a lot more specific with details, if you put the actual car up and who's selling it where sometimes members might even know the car or actually looked at it for sale now or before. Most on here (not me, I'm the opposite, why people buy modern VWs is almost beyond me) will perhaps be biased towards the good elements of the car and marque but there are so many threads and posts here to also find the issues. As I put if you have the VIN some even have access to look up details including perhaps service history. One thing to note is that last year VW UK finally fell in line with VW in the rest of Europe (the world) and admitted the rubber cambelts didn't need changing at 50K-miles/5yrs (to late for me and others). I'd want to plug in a scan tool and see what error codes have been left or are on the vehicle but I expected you might have to do that out of sight of the sales people, it'd be part of any inspection check on a modern car, I'd work them into any negotiations, if negotiations are still available now. To know how good any car is as an example of that model you'd probably need to drive a few others, preferably same engine, gearbox, suspension, age/mileage. Cinch style buying seem simple poke and hope buying which suits many - but you only have a short time to bounce it back if you've made a mistake.

It may be a computer issue, caused by something else or by the battery having got too low. When you get to the start/stop not activating when it normally should that often is the first sign that the battery is low. At that stage just driving the car may be enough to fully recover it (to whatever level is possible) by the time you're into warning lights and messages the battery could be so low it needs the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer to recharge the battery as much as is possible. When there is any difficulty getting the engine started then the battery probably will never be fully recharged. If a connection is loose or dirty then tightening and cleaning with make all the difference but the battery will still probably need the use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer to recharge it. If it's none of the above then a scan tool is needed to see if it might be something like a faulty sensor, or the wiring or connection(s) to or from it. Only recently someone put they used a scan tool and got error messages but the actual cause was a dirty battery connection, he had gone about checks a*se-about-face sexy scan tool before basic checks. Good luck.

If you have the charm, good looks and brass neck just go into a Skoda Dealership with the reg number and ask them to please print off a "complete record". But then it might not tell you much as it only really lists services and "maintenance work" that has been listed on the computer system, it may exclude some services either done elsewhere or not done at all. A "service" now is little more than an annual (or less) change of engine oil and filter and a look see for other chargeable work, it doesn't really cover the engine let alone the the whole car. If you want a Superb have a look at the relevant Superb forum and ask if anyone has access to such records (as some do with other model(s)). If Cinch have priced for no service history and this id truly reflected in the asking price then if you get the service history you have benefited on the price - but, without any service history you have to accept that the car might not have ever ben serviced or very little absolute warranty minimal so buyer beware.

Check the state of charge of your battery, check the main battery and main earth connections are are tight and clean.

Sorry no idea of the part but it might be one of those parts you can only get from scrapyard / recycling / eBay so take care, others will know better than me. I think you are better trying to find the source of the leak than putting any stop leaks type stuff in, that more for general leaks on used/abused stuff just to keep it going rather than a cure. Not leaking for a day or two doesn't mean that much as it may be just that it takes that long to be noticeable. A teaspoon of oil on the ground can look like a lake but it would not be a noticeable loss on the dipstick or in the gearbox. With the car parked up gravity usually applies so a small leak from higher up the engine will drop at the bottom of the engine, often at the lowest point which often is the drain plug which mays some think the drain plugs is leak when it's not, though if old or incorrect washers are used at the drain plug this is possible but usually easily noticeable. You could also check at the engine oil filter or lots of other places, anything with a joint and or clip. How often is your engine oil and filter changed, when was it last done, have you noticed the leak since then or before?

Hi, welcome. On my PC there is no sound to that video. Have the engine idling, trying turning off the infotainment (well as much as possibly, or mute), turn off air-con, turn off the heater blower, turn off everything and check the noise is not from the engine bay - then try turning items on individually with only one item on at any time with the engine running. If that does not highlight anything try the same procedure without the engine running. Others may be able to hear the audio I cannot but for future even though you want audio it is best do do the video in landscape (turn the phone on its side) as this way there is more information in the frame, others can perhaps see something that might be relevant, I understand you might need to have the phone close to the dash but if you can have the image zoomed out as much a possible. Good luck.

You have posted in the Fabia Mk3 forum (2014-21) you want the Mk4 forum, I'll ask a moderator if they could move this thread to that forum. In the meantime you could have a look in the Mk4 forum at the topics and posts. I personally recommend you get an appropriate (12v) battery charger for whatever modern car you get with start/stop particularly. Skoda Fabia Mk IV (2021 > ) - Discussion for the new Mk 4 Skoda Fabia from 2021 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/402-skoda-fabia-mk-iv-2021/

Once I'd found the source of the actual leak if I was keeping the car I would get the gearbox oil hot and drain or syphon out as much as possible and replace with fresh new good quality gear oil, it won't stop the gear problem probably but it could help, and help the gearbox generally. To find the oil leak you could wipe clean and dry all underneath and in engine bay then run the car to full temperature, cooling fan cutting in and then look again for the leaking oil tracking down, or throw on something dry that will highlight the wet or damp areas. Or you can buy and add engine oil leak detection dye and look for the glow, you could even add a few drops in the gearbox. Just one as an example only. - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RLD4 ETA: you can buy kits with the dye, torch and glasses, I always try to let the chemicals do the hard work (like a good penetrating/releasing fluid) plus now you've learnt to have time and patience in your tool box too, two things many professionals often don't have available, or keep in stock for some.

But as my elderly neighbour used to say, better living with some problems than the alternative. and when you see what some people have had to put up with everyday of their life you can be happy about being able to change a wheel (with or without alignment tools).

I forgot that, but we went through some fixes for that, pity you couldn't use some (or all) of the internals from the old in the crap new one but I suppose there are too many minor differences, I expect you were looking to see if the burnt out bits could be swapped. But such are the joys in today's life.

You sound like a Precious McKenzie to me, I've got arms and legs like bits of string now and lifting my body from the ground is an achievement sometimes, lifting a wheel takes a lot more effort now, even a 15" (or a 13" x 4.5" as I used to have until a couple of years ago). 😄

There were no measurements that I noticed from before this was fitted as a comparator. Interesting that the inlet scoop was partly covered from direct line of air by the the body rail, disturbed air might be better or worse. What will you do about the cold air in winter.

I've never heard of DR-60 let alone used it but I have used GT85 and PlusGas off and on going back to the 1980s and 1990s. PlusGas doesn't seem as good as when it was British made but perhaps that's rose-tinted glasses and the fact that GT85 returned and seems to be a very good penetrating releasing fluid. Rapideeze used to the one I used and was great but they went during IIRC the 1990s hence my looking for a replacement as a penetrating/releasing fluid. Careful with knurled knob and use of pliers you don't want to strip the knurling, I was thinking of some small waterpump / pipe fittings / box joint / "Groove Slip Joint" type pliers barely open so that you don't over-grip them on the knurled part. This type of thing only as an example. -

Obviously it's only images on a screen and the factory motor is 25 years old and some use but that looks like it might be able to be repaired and cleaned and lubricate for more life, as you have found before cleaning and fresh new lubrication can help even working parts (it's why you change you engine oil and filter every year at least). Would have been interesting to compare the internals of that modern crap one.