nta16

I'm lucky to remember my name most days, I think the light was on an earlier model, I'm not sure Fabias have such things as cameras, not earlier years anyway. I'm not able to check parts numbers so this is just as an example - Outdoor Handle for the 5th Door Škoda - boot unlocking switch for cars with central locking, for combi and sedan cars - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y0827574m-outdoor-handle-for-the-5th-door-skoda-6096.html Replacing the switch might get the boot light working too, but I don't know. Only as example - I don't think you need this -Servomotor for the 5th Door Lock Škoda - Boot lid lock with a motor for opening the boot, bottom part, for cars with central locking - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6y0827511g-servomotor-for-the-5th-door-lock-skoda-5786.html

There was a thread were a number plate light had got corroded from water getting in IIRC but I can't find it now. Can't believe that price it must be for more than just a microswitch door switch assembly surely.

Sorry but when doing this sort of thing over the internet we don't see, hear, smell and feel what you have or can so it just leaves questions. Taking good quality photos (in landscape, not portrait) and posting them here can often help to save confusion and help spot something that might be not expected. So, the questions, sorry. How is the battery good, any measurements, when were these measurements taken, did you check the electrolyte level in each cell, (I have been told many times a battery is good when it was not)? Did you check the battery terminals are clean, check the battery terminal clamps are clean inside and out, make sure the clamps are securely fitted to the battery terminals, that the main cables and their connections (including earths) are clean, secure and protected, all other electrical cables, wires, earths are clean, secure and protected? Filter new (and hopefully) clean is good but what about the filter box and hoses off this are they clear and clean? In what way is the MAP OK? How are the spark plugs OK, how were they tested, how old are they, how much use, are they genuine or possibly counterfeit?

As a recovered hi-fi nut of 40+ years (from the 1970s) of high monetary expenditure I think with that you might be paying more for brand and peer acceptance and into diminishing returns, certainly against expenditure, any basic sound deadening mats cut as required would reduce some of the vibrations from the thin metal sheets that are on a modern car but I doubt you'd be satisfied knowing you hadn't used the more expensive stuff which may give some small greater improvement. For sound quality everyone of us is different to what we hear and what we want/need but as with cars generally whatever you have, whatever it can do, it can be improved, there is no end to the improvements only a level of what you can accept. You might find that you are listening to the system, environment, source quality rather than the music, play or program or perhaps that's your aim in which case there are test signals or I believe competition signals purely to test or as competition. I now find quite modest systems fine and just accept them as they are and don't own any systems myself at all, my last car that I had for 16 years didn't even have a radio let alone any sort of reasonable audio system so I can't help you any more than the experience I've already put which I know won't be relevant to you at this point. Good luck.

What is it that you want to achieve with the sound deadening audio sound quality or general car vibration noise?

Wow, €167. he must be weighing up diagnostics, search and testing time/fees against likely possibility of just replacing the part. The leaking of washer fluid into and out of the rear door you might notice you might not, depends on a few things plus the leak may not be at that point anywhere, or it might be a blockage in the pipe or connection or pipe squeezed to close or connection off, might be an issue with or at the pump. Boot light is another matter, if it doesn't come on when you open the tailgate then testing the bulb is first port of call, Sod's Law allows for more than one cause of problems in the same item or area. In a way it's good to know that you can survive without such things as washer to rear window, you're a hardy pair. 😊

I thought I was going to have to remove the rear fantastic-VW-plastic bumper on my wife's 2015 so had a very quick look at things on the car and it looked to be easy. I think the most difficult bits will be the usual PITA stuff like disconnecting the sensors from the bumper if required if they're on plastic clips, same as when removing the rear light clusters the awkward (for me anyway) wires connectors. I judged I'd need the help of my (very reluctant) glamorous assistant (and she couldn't get out of helping as she'd caused the problem) to have one on each end of the bumper to lift/pull off the bumper without dropping any part of it to the ground and scratching the paint and to also transport it without damaging it to a safe area for me to do the work required on it. Even if your car is clean there'll be dust at least around the wheel arches and behind the light clusters. I've just found this guide previously posted by varooom, this looks very helpful and what I expected. - Fabia III Rear Bumper Removal.pdf

Check the battery state of charge at the battery terminals. If the battery wasn't 'coded' or 'coded' correctly it might be in a low state of charge despite being new , a battery is just a store and the store can be depleted even if new. Whilst you are at it also check the battery terminal clamps are also tight and clean, it's amazing the number of places/people that are sloppy about doing such easy work. Many owners don't realise a battery can be low even though it starts the engine and the lights seem bright enough, you get warnings then items unavailable by the time the engine is difficult to start the battery could be beyond full recovery, hopefully not on such a recent battery. If the battery is low then fully recharge it with an appropriate charger maintainer, a long. low, slow recharge is usually better than a shorter, higher, quicker recharge. If you're in Northampton send me a direct private message through the site and I can check the battery state of charge and installation if you want/need me to. Sorry I no longer have access to a scan tool as my neighbour has moved away but IF it is the battery once it is fully recharged it is very easy for you to get rid of the warnings without any tools - but of course if there is also a separate issue with a speed sensor then some or perhaps even all of the warnings will remain but any electrical or engine starting problems are helped by not have the battery in a low state of charge.

Yes, very much so. I'm unusual here in not being a VW fan or liking German marque products (with very few exceptions and not from this century) I personally find much about VW simply not clever and trying to be too "clever". Fair enough, but they can be. - Site Help and Suggestions - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/22-site-help-and-suggestions/

I've got a few (near) ticks there, (1966) Vanden Plas 1100 (single carb), I drove a mate's Beetle once not my cup of Darjeeling at all, I really enjoyed a ride out four up in a 2CV in the late 70s with the Daventry roundabouts in the fog at a pace to a village somewhere in the fog, I thought about getting a Lomax three-wheeler at one time, (2000) LHD smart Passion coupe, (1996) Rover Mini Cooper 1.3i, I always fancied a SAAB 900 (and 99 and 96) I test drove a s/h 9000 but it was far too big for my likes, a mate was a rep and had use of his boss's BX 16v, being a rep and having no costs to the car he drove it like a rep, great fun on the country roads. I've had a few pushbikes in the past but nothing with an engine despite carrying an organ donation card since 1985.

Tony, as the last time I put such a suggestion it caused some posters here some upset I'll put - this is what I might do if the car is mine and out of warranty and I thought it wasn't cable adjustment and if it's easy to get the gear lever cover off or out of the way. As the gear lever mech tends to be VW fantastic plastic of some sort I would see what movements there are from going from neutral to 1st and neutral to reverse and I would treat these areas with a careful little spray of lubricant and work that in by constantly selecting those gears a good number of times. If it worked I'd be happy, if it didn't I'd have wasted a bit of time, effort and spray. You and others may not agree, want or bother with the idea and that's fine ,it's just what I might try as I loathe farting about with my own car and want a quick easy thing to try and I don't really fully trust most at Dealerships and garages. The lubricant can be whatever is suitable or personal choice. I'd avoid WD-40 Multi-Use as it's not a long lasting lubricant and would use GT85 (or a silicone spray I'd run out of GT85 by using it on stuff I do for neighbours). https://gt85.co.uk/ Release the hounds. 😁

You are possibly overthinking this all and not getting down to enough practical investigation, you may also be over-crediting VWSkoda complex computer systems and programs and programmers and the efficiency and thoroughness of garage staff. Plugging in an appropriate scan tool might give give info on the switch fail and/or test it by actuating it. They should sort boot switch and all if they are any good and if they are good then it should be a good repair that lasts, if they bodge things it might be a repair that lasts for a good while but causes problems again in the future. I would ask for details of the repair so that you can check the quality of the repair if you want to. Personally in these day of ubiquitous cameras in devices I can't see a problem with taking a photo of the repair but it doesn't seem to be what most garages want to do (no wonder with some of them). As for the multi-quotes process I mentioned I've no idea if the way I do it is the most efficient, best, only, it's just the way I do it and for me isn't that slow or cumbersome as I'm used to that way, Let us know how you get on after Monday.

Tony, I'm (almost) sure(?) there was something about this before, perhaps it wasn't in the Fabia Mk3 forum, when others see this thread they'll probably have chapter and verse on it. In the meantime if you want to clarify more. 5 or 6 speed manual? Where is reverse position with the gearstick in relation to reverse? Have you had the car from new? How long have you had this difficulty? How often does it happen? Does anyone else who drives the car report this issue? It depends on what and how you like to drive if DSG autos might be interesting to you, I've never driven one other than a smart at the turn of the century. If you've a 6 speed manual the gearing is so low you might as well have an auto box I think, save all the VW computer programs pestering whilst you're supposed to be driving but they want to tell you how to drive, like a nervous and interfering passenger, well to me anyway. 🙂 With the engine running you have moving parts so things could become more awkward. In the old days (when it was all fields around here) you'd check the box oil level and perhaps clutch operation or even gear lever rubber rubber grommet or anti-tizz springs cup but now there's so much more including all that's needed for the various computer programs. I'm very unusual here, and other places, but particularly here because I'm not a VW fan (Golf Mk1 GTi being the exception) and find in my very limited experience of VW engines they sound badger's bottom rough and the manual Fabia 2015 5-speed gearbox and 2023 6-speed gearboxes to be a clunky feel of shift, decidedly family car, I don't rush a gear change and make sure the clutch pedal is fully depressed and not pressed or lifted too quickly and foot fully off accelerator pedal. I have found reverse can take a little bit of rolling to get it on cog more than other cars I've driven but can't think of any issues getting 1st. Thanks for the comment on the Skoda 130 Coupe, unfortunately the photo is from 1986/7, before becoming a VW brand and the Skoda Dealerships were small friendly backstreet garages and not the Velcro name badge places of today.

Do bear in mind a scan report needs proper and further checking, interpretation and diagnosis, just because a sensor gives unacceptable readings it does not necessarily mean it is a fault with, or at, that sensor. The report has to be interpreted normally, just changing that part could be what we call "shooting the messenger" that is blaming the messenger for the news it gives you rather than dealing with the cause of the news given.

Wow !! I mean wow! Could you please suggest that to VWSkoda UK, the UK VWSkoda Dealerships, most garages and mechanics in the UK, please. Free !!????!! IIRC VWSkoda Dealership prices seem to go from £65 to £140 just to plug the machine in, perhaps they might give discount or exclude the cost if you have some expensive work done as a result of this (a Mercs specialist does at least) but I'm not sure VWSkoda Dealerships do. As I put before the prices you pay for parts and labour seem (much) lower than in UK.

A quick thought, if it's a manual gearbox, is that the cables from lever to box might need sorting, videos and info around. Also if the idle revs are too high perhaps, then of course there's clutch and other issues, operation of gear lever (particularly if not manual box), I doubt it's the gearbox itself (unless DSG/auto perhaps) but if you put which gearbox it is or look for problems on that gearbox if required. Does your model have anything like dual mass flywheel, dual clutch or other exotic stuff. Also do a search as there might be the other issues around this covered in previous threads for Fabia Mk3 but I can't remember the details. All being well someone else will be along with more relevant info and knows the models more but more information about your gearbox. clutch, transmission might be also useful to them. Good luck.

ETA: you can also update your wotsit/thingy to include the Fabia. Wotsit/thingy is this, (I've no idea what it's called).

Er, no idea about these computer terms (took me two goes at seeing wisiwig as I've not heard that term for decades) but what I think you want is separate sections of quotes (boxes). So, cursor over the start of what you want to quote, hold down left-click of mouse (or equivalent), whilst still holding down mouse-left-click highlight the wording you want to quote, this should bring up a pale green infill box with bold black border with the wording 'Quote selection', left- click with your cursor on this box and the quote goes to your new post box. You can drag the quote box through existing text (or empty lines put in with carriage return or equivalent). Thanks, I've not heard that term. As an English language I avoid Americanisms, they've already took over too much here. 🙂 I can barely read English let alone French so I have to look at the English language version of a 2018 Fabia Owner's Manual, below is from that publication, perhaps left-hand-drive models have the little red light on the passenger door instead(?) (or you've not consulted the Owner's Manual sufficiently). This is possibly a perfect example of me not asking the right or sufficient questions. You have more than the boot opening switch not working, this suggests perhaps the following, the area of wring within the conduit between the body of the car and the tailgate has broken wires (this information and photo was kindly provided by Joske82 in another thread where he discovered the issue and solution). - HTH. Good luck.

Free? Free?? Not free in the UK unless a Briskoda member offers and then does the program cover 1995 Felicia and have the Felicia adapter for the cable. You would know better than me but at a very quick look, your VCDS link has the VCDS with "has access to all control modules that require the KWP-2000 (2001 + Teves Mk. 60 ABS, numerous 2002 + modules), KWP6000 (CAN) and/or KWP7000 (UDS) protocols" does that cover 1995 Felicia (I have no idea). And has "Package contents: - VCDS Hex V2 diagnostic tool - PC connection cable (usb) - Installation CD" no mention of 1995 Felicia adapter. Second link show from 1996 unless I have missed something - is V2 compatible with 1995 Felicia? Third link, again I might be missing it but those scanners, at a very brief look, do not say VW so would only perhaps cover generic OBD2 stuff and not VW 1995 Felicia specific for more detailed specific reporting of modules/sensors. VW gets away with lots more chargeable stuff in the UK than Europe, we have always been a soft touch and expect lower standards and more and higher pricing on car items and services, you would wince at what we in the UK pay for parts and labour for the same cars you have.

Sorry, obviously I do not know what you know and do not, in the same way I have no idea what a bi-yearly RWT is (our MoT is annual after car is 3 years old). I might have misunderstood and you mean the door opening in addition to unlocking. You can test the opening using the hole and screwdriver then it's out with the multimeter to see if the switch is faulty or just connections dirty or broken, or broken wire(s). Any warning light on the drivers door flashing sequence? rum4mo - "One thing to always include in your "looking around" when faced with an electrical issue concerning a issue with the rear hatch, will be the area of wring within the conduit between the body and the rear hatch."

The door lock emergency open or close is also the operation to synchronise the remote, this example is on an earlier UK car but the principles still apply (so quick and easy to do, though I have no idea why the car alarm didn't go off but that is just another of the joys of computers and their programming that brings interest into our lives). - Skoda Fabia Mk3: Door Lock Emergency Open/Close (Broken Key Fob)

Skoda Fabia Mk3: Boot Won’t Open (Find Emergency Lever) - (loads of other useful videos on this YT channel too on (earlier) Fabia Mk3) -

With my wife's 2015 UK car the boot / luggage compartment (trunk is American) does not open if the metal keyblade is in the ignition cylinder lock. I always refer to the Owner's Manual before the internet and I would also follow the instructions in there to synchronise the remote as it's so easy and quick to do (other than the car alarm going off when you open the door so you need to get the keyblade into the ignition cylinder lock as quick a possible to turn the car alarm off. If you have a proximity key (KESSY) I don't know about those so much (can anyone tell me what advantage they give to abled-body people?). The other thing you could do is look at the mechanical parts of the rear door, catch and hook for obstructions, perhaps check the emergency opening from inside (see Owner's Manual) after that check wiring and connection to to rear door switch as on newer models I have seen they seem like they might fail. If required, from VWSkoda free downloadable pdf Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

I agree (but on time rather than mileage as that's more suitable for my wife's car's short journeys) and almost put about (wheel) tyre rotation but not everyone believes in it and VWSoda make the job not only a PITA but potentially a pain in the back and without the (often underinflated or flat) spare wheel more so hence my suggestion of 4 "alignment tools". ETA: I personally always remove the locking wheel bolt first and put (one of) the alignment tool(s) in that position and replace the locking wheel bolt last, same for torquing up. Four wheels, directional tyres. -

Sorry I meant to put the engine reporting on a scan tool might give information that might help find but (not necessarily identify cause(s) but often the usual basics of diagnostics will apply regardless, such as already mentioned - battery - or connections and cables on and to and from the battery including earths ignition - cables and connections, spark plugs (clean or replace as required), coil(s) air - in or out or escaping, clean and unrestricted engine air filter and air filter housing, hoses, or air leaks such as vacuum leaks petrol - petrol quality supplied and in car's fuel tank, clear and unrestricted tank, fuel filter and supply pipes/hoses, fuel pump, clean throttle body, injector(s), (carb?) electronics - sensors clean and fully operating, electric wires and connectors all clean (inside and outside) secure and protected mechanical - pedal, throttle connections and operation, cables and spring(s) engine - faults, running hot, head gasket failure, other. A full and proper service of the engine (and whole car) can often sort many issues in many instances (but not all obviously).