nta16

To me your graph shows a pretty fierce tune, about 250 Nm expected(?) at wheels stock to about 375 Nm expected at wheels APR stage 1(?) at 2,790 revs. You'd want the whole car including engine, turbo, brakes, suspension, tyres, etc. in very good condition and whole car fully and properly serviced, maintained and repaired before starting that tuning, What exactly is in the APR Stage 1 tuning package, parts, tuning, what? What else on the engine or related to the engine has also been changed? For engine difference information you might be better looking on and/or asking on the ' Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ or the 'Octavia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/207-octavia-projects/ Modern cars are all about the computer programs in them and VW have complex intertwined computer programs going back a good while, even VW don't seem to always get all of their computer programs right all of the time so errors in scan tool and tuning programs are possible, especially if applied to the wrongly. (Am I missing something) surely the tuners saved the car's previous programs as back up before putting their program on just in case something fouls up, standard computer stuff?

A 2019 car with 100,000 miles suggest it might have been used for longer journeys at higher speeds so if services and maintenance were kept up I am not surprised that the throttle is so relatively clean but not knowing the history of the car it could have done the 100,000 miles in say three years then had a year of short journeys on congested town/city streets in debris filled environments without being serviced or any combination or history, you don't know until you check. I have no idea about the GPF, they are not supposed to make any odds to the running but I wonder if the computer programming needed changing to accommodate them which might affect other program settings. You would have to ask VWSkoda and personally I don't think you would get much joy from doing that but you could try and I might be wrong as I often am. Even though the throttle is clean which is a good sign I would still check the air filter and spark plugs particularly if you have no certain record that they have been changed, neither may have anything to do with your revs issue but you want to prevent any other potential further issues, even live running scan tool results can only tell you so much and programmed parameters for some things can be quite wide. You could try doing and thoroughly looking at various live scan reports concentrating on various components that might cause or contribute this to this issue but it might be a long job, IIRC the numbers my wife's 2015 Fabia had 638(?) data points for the engine(?) and I would imagine a 2019 car would have possibly more, certainly more on the whole car than a 2015 model. I am not sure you will ever get to the bottom of this but again I might be wrong as I often am, good luck.

Many apologies, I've never even seen electric struts let alone know how they differ. For panels often some kind of plastic tool is best used but where and how much muscle you need on your car I've no idea. You may be best posting in the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum for more and better detailed replies. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ You could also see if the WSM is on here. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/skoda-superb/

BTW (not that it matters and no need to reply) did you realise you've posted in the 'Hellos and Goodbyes' forum and not 'General Maintenance' or 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)' forum. ( https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ )

Hi, welcome, The tailgate struts have a clip, no need to remove any panels. See the following video as an example. - HTH.

Doesn't have to be the bulb (with later cars at least) - though have you taken the bulb out to see if it's gone silver/smoked/black at all for incandescent or not all wotsits lit for LED? LED bulb quality varies a lot, incandescent replacement bulbs are generally poor quality and don't last now. Could it be a fault at holder, cluster board, connector, wires, computer program brain-fart(?)?. If it's a repeater try putting the hazards on without the engine running and check all are working OK, better still do that with the headlights, fogs, reverse, lights all on and pressing the brake lights on and off, to really test things, check all the lights remain bright and no changes with brake lights on and off.

Hi, welcome. Do you want this just for appearance or have you a high performance track car? You might be better putting the money towards a set of new very good quality tyres that will help with braking, steering, suspension, handling, road holding and possibly ride comfort and noise. You might also get more information about rear diffusers and perhaps better asking in the 'Fabia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ Good luck.

Some makes of scan tools have info sent from users to help with updates, you might have to enable this feature, obviously the more users that have their reports sent to the scan tool maker that their programs have issues the quicker and better the updates with be. You can also I think send photos if you have a camera on the scanner. Some also have user forums that can be good. too. Many professionals (and non-professionals) are too lazy to carry out full updates and forget this when they plug into a make/model/year for a first time. I used to always update my neighbour's scanner before I borrowed it (and fully charge the battery) and some of the available updates were interesting, the files for the VW Phaeton were huge, not that we would ever see such a beast, and I guess more about halo/ego marketing for the scanner maker given the level of scan tool my neighbour had. And stuff for Asian market commercial vans from a brand I had never heard of, but my neighbour had as he has a very compressive motor car website. - https://motor-car.net/

As put, the computer programs are very complex and intertwined, as put, speed and braking are related to so many systems on/in the vehicle. Which is why you don't want to let the car's battery power drop to them, they don't like it and will make you suffer for that mistake. And that's not allowing for any errors or omissions in any of the vast amounts of computer programming on the vehicle. In the last week my wife told me it had finally happened, she was in town driving slowly and the front collision thing jumped on the brakes and threw up a warning for no apparent reason then she saw a bag blowing by in the wind, I'd predicted wrong I thought that would happen but with a large leaf. I might have been right when previously she told me the front anti-collision thing apparently said it was unavailable and later became available again. The "amber triangle of doom" dash warning light has come on a couple of times and I've found no fault and it's not bothered returning again. Then a couple of other times lit up too late when the issue has already been noted by the driver (but perhaps a good reminder for some non-drivers that passenger behind the steering wheel of the moving infotainment machine). I think it was Toyota (of all manufactures!) that had a model go into limp mode at a reported failure of brake light, but they sorted that. Telsa, computer experts, well where do you start with their cars and computer glitches (brain-farts, human or electronic) obviously as computer people they know all are entirely the fault of the users and not their machines or programming.

You may need to check where you are but there no reason why you can't do additional work and reset any reminders as long as the work done and items used are to warranty specification. Personally I take the German additional specification numbers with a pinch of salt - but my wife's car is not under warranty - good oil that meets the required specification is a good oil, VW (and others) will use and promote the oil (company) that they have a commercial contract with and then go on to change their own specification numbers and oil suppliers other the years and decades and possibly sales markets. A very good quality oil will protect more and for longer, it does not need any "long life" label. The oil change (along with other) schedules are merely based on mileage or time not the condition of the oil (and filter) and the oil may best be changed sooner or possibly even a bit later, it depends on so many variables. In the USA where oil is (even) more of a consumable they have places that change engine oil at 3,000 and 5,000 mile intervals.

A bit like but more than taking a live or earth supply to a component to see if actuates, if the component actuates then you can look for an issue in the power supply (or communication. All scan tools are only another diagnostic tool that require correct interpretation and conformation of the info they give, sometimes they point to the culprit but certainly not always, many using a scan tool might replace a part when it's merely shooting the messenger not solving the issue.

Uhmmm, I think, could well be wrong of course, that things are not added or removed so that they can be sold as extras in a soft-touch(ed) market like the UK. We used to have cars going and coming into the UK where many extras would be available to UK at extra cost but fitted as standard for say Japan and that "loaded" vehicle still at lower in Japan than the non-extras car in the UK.

On that theme you would want timely servicing , maintenance and repairs of the whole and beyond the VWSkoda limited "servicing" and "maintenance" schedules keeping well on top of all clean and lubricate stuff. For the engine that would be timely changes of engine oil and filter using very god quality oil for a sporty car and good quality oil filter, changing the air filter perhaps well in advance of VWSkoda schedules (in the UK at least) and spark plugs, Just because a part is working doesn't mean it is working as good as it could or should be and in relation to a performance model too. No need to wait if you do not want to, fill up the tank again now with 98 or 100. A problem is that you can soon get used to improvements and they become the norm and no longer improvements - at least until you have to drop to previous levels. Good luck

I wasn't joking when I put your observations would help others, particularly those thinking or looking to buy the model. Cruise control is another thing I don't like but until a couple of years ago I was driving a 1973 MG Midget so used to what was on it (very little) being fully manual/mechanical, this one did have cabin and boot light though, no additional electrics at all, and no real point having a radio/"stereo" let alone a clock/phone thingy. Personally I find the gear change feel a bit clonky but if not rushed (at all) it's fine for a family hatch/estate, I changed the gearbox oil and that helped a tiny fraction for a while at least. The interfering computer programs to me are a PITA and my wife said what I'd warned about finally happened the other day, whilst she was driving slowly in traffic the front anti-collision thing threw up a warning and jumped on the brakes for no apparent reason and then she saw a bag blowing in the wind. It showed as inactive before and then was OK I said probably a big leaf had got stuck to to the grille. Then there are the other over concern computer programs, but you get similar on all modern cars now. I also drive neighbours' cars, one a 2023 Ren-No! Nissan has all the modern auto stuff (and adaptive cruise control I believe) with start/stop/ electronic handbrake but being manual gearbox it's computer programs are like an over nervous driver that gets itself unnecessarily into very awkward situations whilst it divers about deciding what it should do and what it will allow the driver to do, lane-assist (as it says in the Handbook) has lots of requirements to work properly so is very hit&miss, off&on, so unreliable when perhaps really needed but very interfering when not needed, I've no idea if this id the same for VW products. I do very, very occasionally sit in the back and really like to have the windup windows, I do however occasionally wind the windows up and down again when I open the back doors to give them exercise to stop them sticking as the back seats and windows are so rarely used, same for the car horn so I know it works for MoT, I rarely use the horn other than humpback bridges and a blind areas. As I put you do as you please with your car and reporting back is very good and helpful to others.

Here VCDS (previously VAG-Com) is favourite, a to me horrible looking presentation (like programs from the 1990s or before) legacy system but many are used to it and like it. There's only one pin in Sydney for Briskoda owner. I've never seen it but I think you can bang it on an old laptop to make it a dedicated machine but I don't know. Otherwise I guess the usual names that have their hardware, cases and connectors all made at the the same places in China (and who knows stolen software bits from China), but those do depend on the model even with the same manufacturer/provider for how good the programs on it are and of course you can use it on loads of other makes and models. A neighbour had a TopDon that covered can/van makes I'd never heard of out your way but it did have it's limits for my wife's 2015 Fabia but certainly had bi-directional capabilities. Having Googled the numbers I wonder if it's the sensors or just the wiring or connectors to them a better scan tool would pin this down more (but probably be the sensors given all the posts about this for VWs) and a better scan tool would say which sensor if it is the sensor, could be other of course. I've owned a few Japanese cars (always very reliable) and they were more interesting models but I can understand some models might lack spirit (as German cars generally do for me) but when we had to replace things like front dampers when I know others with 20+year old and 28+ year old Toyotas still on all factory suspension I'd find them less boring. 😆 We only got to 20,000 miles before the first issue and had other issues after that and have ongoing niggles, so our lost is your gain, or visa-versa. 😆 I bought my Skodas in the mid to late 1980s (before VW took over, and actually the quality dropped initially with them) and they were different, very cheap and fun to drive (rear-engine, RWD) now it's just VW making them cheaper so as not to spoil their named brand (and formerly making them heavier so they didn't go quicker than the VW models too apparently). Good luck, someone might be along here with all the info you need or past experience to help you.

VW have to distinguish between their brands to help justify the the level and price of it's own name products. Skoda is a cheaper brand, always has been. Some of the missing features could possibly be 'coded' into the car with a relevant scan tool and someone who knows what they're doing with it. Personally I dislike most of the driver "aids" and "niceties" I'd sooner have wind-up windows as there's less to go wrong and less weight to the car. If you want more auto this and that then a newer model with have those (PITA things to me). Having to put the ignition on to get the windows down (or up) really annoys me and not being able to do it with the remote. The car was my wife's choice I'd sooner she bought an older Japanese model for the same money, so does she now. 😉 What's semi-climate btw? You're going for tinted windows rather than waiting to see what else might need spending on with a 7+ year old car, your money, your decision, you may be a lot luckier with cars than me, then just about everyone else always seems to be. 😄 I'm very unusual here (and elsewhere 😁) because I've never been a fan of VW cars (well Golf Mk1 GTi excepted) or Mercs or most BMWs and know the "German engineering quality" is a thing of the last century really, not this century. The Fabias aren't bad cars in any way but some VW parts quality doesn't appear to be great or have much longevity. If you want loads of extras on a car why didn't you go for the less popular brands and manufacturers, some would only just be out of warranty or buy an older better make with all the bells and whistles on paid for by original purchaser. Good to get the observations of new owners for others to see, perhaps you might also post in the 'About to buy a SKODA? - New to SKODA? Not sure of an option, want to get real feedback? We have your back, ask question of fellow owners for your new car' where as it put real feedback would also be very helpful. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/288-about-to-buy-a-skoda/ Keep letting us know how you get on, remember the tips I gave you and apply them as you like but they are from experience of the model and 30+ years of owning various classics and using them as ordinary cars as they were built to be used and not old-fart sunny Sunday afternoon short drive to a local show and back - but perhaps I don't quite have as many years driving experience a you, I passed my test in 1977 and rarely drove a car before 1977. Good luck.

Have you or anyone else been coding these items or perhaps fitted new parts? Have you got one of these DSG/auto type gearboxes? Have you tried doing a general error report and got any error codes, if so did you try deleting them all then driving the car for a while to see if any returned? Do you actually have a problem with the car (warnings or lights) or is it the MaxiECU that is reporting a fault and may be at fault itself with its programming? Is your MaxiEcu fully up to date for VWSkoda models in your region? The German marques generally have very complex intertwined computer programming so need specialised program scan tools, lower priced scan tools may throw up their own difficulties with the car, if you have access to another higher level and/or more VW scan tool to check what results that gives to confirm or deny the MaxiEcu? I'm surprised in Aus you buy European cars when Japanese cars seem the much more obvious choice, do VW sell Skodas at low prices in Aus?

I was not fully correct but at least you knew what I meant, thanks. .

Quick thoughts: there is a part that ends with A and a part that ends with B(?)/C(?)- have you got the right part and fitted it correctly, errors and warnings sometimes disappear by driving the car a distance (not always that far I think) so if you've not already done so try driving it and see if the message goes away having appeased the Gods that are computers and their programming. ETA: we don't know which YouTube video you mean as I (almost) sure there is more than one YT vid on this. Let us know how you get on.

Unless I have got it wrong, seems to be something like this, an old gas "geezer" type looking thing from the 1950s, very 21st century engineering I'm sure, Jules Verne might recognise it. 🫠 ETA This one is listed on eBay UK as a "VOLKSWAGEN GOLF MK8 GTI Catalytic Converter GPF Particulator Filter 5WA131723D".

A basic scan tool may give a start many times but I would say for the very complex VW computer programs you want more than a generic OBD scan tool you want a good scan tool with specific programs for your VW product otherwise the information may be too general and even have error(s). Using a good scan tool is often necessary but the results still have to be interpreted correctly, not always will the scan tool give you the instant answer, plus using a scan tool or not the other basics of the car and diagnostics need to be carried out to very often fully successfully resolve things. It's always been that you want the car battery fully charged before carrying on extended tests to sort out engine starting and electrical issues but it is more so with more modern cars.

I have no idea what the problem was in that thread and realised it might not apply to your case, as I put the presentation was different. I am not suggesting a broken spring now but you must always consider that an issue may have more than one point of source and that there can be contributing factors which is why you want as much as you can to be working properly as much as possible or reasonable, even if not directly related things can be indirectly related. I don't think cleaning a throttle body or MAF sensor will solve your issue but either or both, if required, might help generally, same idea as having a fully charged battery before spending a long time looking for engine starting or electrical issues, 160,000km is a good point I think to do more servicing and maintenance than a Dealership might to keep the car in good and help resolve issues (that can be resolved). Just out of curiosity does your car have a GPF as I wonder how much computer programming might have been rewritten for it (I have no idea)?

As an aside, I just looked in my shed and found the throttle cleaner I used on a mate's car, I've not used it yet on my wife's Fabia because the mileage isn't that high yet and I loathe doing anything on our cars and that one particularly, as he didn't want to remove the throttle body we used it on the car but it did not do as well as I would usually have it by taking parts off the car. I normally also use clean old rags (so not the ones I wear) and if appropriate a clean old toothbrush too. Other brands are available just the one I bought, (keeps it German too 😁) Liqui Moly Pro-Line Drossen Klappen Reiniger (Clean Throttle Flaps) Throttle Valve Cleaner. -https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/pro-line-throttle-valve-cleaner-p000072.html#5111 I have also used a MAF sensor cleaner on a few mates' vehicles to good effect, one in particular a 2005 diesel small car type van, on the test drive after he said it was the first time in a very long time he got up the rev range that high, I only cleaned the sensor nothing more. It was of no noticeable just, driving effect on my wife's Fabia as it was lower mileage and quite clean anyway (I didn't bother checking with scan tool), I only done the Fabia because it was so easy to access, VW didn't even bother to use the two screw holes available on the sensor just the usual VAG fantastic-plastic clips.

Wasn't a Fabia thread, Octavia in UK IIRC. You are in luck I have found it again, I don't always, but also note it seems to relate to 2017 so hopefully they had it sorted by 2019 and that throttle problem presented differently, but as requested here is that thread. -

Hi, welcome. If it's a rubber belt VWSkoda UK finally admitted to yearly checks and 15 yr/180k-miles change (that's after many of us paid them for 5yr/50k-mile changes, the robbing buggers). Only doing 5,000 miles a year may not be as good for the car in some ways as you think and can often shorten the life of some things rather than lengthen them, plus there are other parts that can play up or fail so have some checks for the next 5 years at least. As you didn't seem to know about the previous 5yr/50k-miles are there any other service and maintenance items your car might have missed? Do you keep an eye on the state of charge of your car battery regardless of if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough? Out of date so ignore prices. -