nta16

An old video but Scotty as straight talking as ever. My old neighbour used to tell me about having to de-carbonise old engines regularly because the oils and petrols weren't so good a long time back, and Scotty in another video on cars not having engine oil filters and "Pur-O-Lator" (pure oil later) oil filter being invented (in 1922/3, Purolator now part of Mann-Hummel, a twist to the usual take-over story). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIycEyNci1o

I've probably asked you this before and you've given me the answer but I've forgot - do Tesco still part own or have a stake in Greenergy as in the back of my mind was Greenergy had outgrown the likes of Tesco (they've certainly grown)?

I'm a fan of Millers Oils products and have used a couple of their petrol additives for my old British over-priced and over-valued car called a "classic". I used them as an experiment against using Tesco Monmentum99 or Shell V-Power and as it worked out a few pence per litre cheaper and the higher octane fuels with greater cleaning additives packages weren't always available where I was driving the car. I've no idea if, or how much, they help with mpg as I didn't check or can't remember now. As with the the higher octane fuels with greater cleaning additives packages I would use it on a tankful both pre and post services and MoTs. Downsides farting about at the petrol pump, 1ml per litre, keeping the bottle upright for not overfilling the measuring section (less of an issue when your fuel tank and filler pipe hold more than 6 gallons), keeping the product away from heat (solar gain inside a car boot) the two year life (particularly if you don't notice it's already a year into that when you bought it, but again with bigger tanks and higher mileage use this would be less of an issue. Millers Petrol Power ECOMAX – Multi-Shot - (other makes and suppliers are available) "FEATURES AND BENEFITS Increases octane rating of unleaded fuel by up to 2 numbers resulting in increased power and MPG. Enhanced detergency package for quicker clean up and prolonged petrol injector cleanliness. Improved inlet manifold and valve cleanliness condition. Maintains catalyst efficiency and helps to invigorate catalytic convertors. Improved combustion and engine cleanliness drastically reduces emissions of hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NOx). Protects the fuel system from E5/E10 ethanol corrosion." "PRODUCT INFORMATION A fuel treatment and detergent package that adds up to 2 octane numbers (RON) to unleaded fuel. Ideal for use as a pre-MOT test clean-up treatment. 1 x 500ml bottle treats: 500 Litres (10 x 50L tanks) of unleaded fuel". https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/petrol-power-ecomax-2/ TDS - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/6205-Petrol-Power-Ecomax-Multi-Shot-4.pdf

Really sorry I missed your post until now, thanks for putting up a photo. That looks like it would be very handy to have, Nice tool, did you make it?

Only thing I can think of is have you looked in (or asked) in the 'Styling and Car Care' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/8-styling-and-car-care/ Seat covers look thin in my wife's 2015 SE (hatch) but they're holding up, other than they stain easily, I've been promising to clean them for about 3 years but it takes a nice sunny dry day to do the interior properly and I'm ben too short of life for a good number of years to be farting about that much on a car, particularly on a pleasant day. Good luck.

Paul, forgive all the questions but I don't know what you know and what you actually did with charging and testing. What is the amperage of your Optimate? Is it a "smart" charger and maintainer suitable for stop/start batteries? Did you get the battery to full on the charger? How long did it take to charge the battery (at what amperage of charger? Did you read and follow the instructions for charging on the car in the Owner's Manual and charger instructions? Were the battery terminals clamps tight and clean, same for main cables and connections (clean, secure and protected)? What battery tester do you have and did you test whilst on the car? Do you have a reasonable multimeter? The battery can be in a low state of charge and the engine still starts and the light seem bright enough and as yet no warning lights or messages, which is why the battery often gets flogged more. Up to you if you want replace it, or you can try to recover it and perhaps get more useful life out of if. often it just takes time and patience or perhaps a rescue setting on the charger. The battery is one of the most oversold car parts but premature replacement suits some people better but by what you've put so far you might be one of the ones to revive the existing battery and learn how to easily keep it going for longer and stop it happening to the next battery. Halfords tend to be a bit expensive for batteries and many find they can get a better battery at lower price from elsewhere (often net retailer and I don't mean Amazon). Big debate about the need for 'coding' if you are keeping the same type of battery (EFB) and just about the same Ah (ignore the out-of-date VW BEM serial number and battery manufacturer three-letter code that was for VW's benefit anyway). I now go with best to 'code' (no panic about instantly at installation of new battery) but I also have an idea about how to perhaps fool the "clever" VWSkoda computer program just with the use of a charger.

Yes tyres are also about fashion and marketing so "last season's fashion" (previous models) might be at lower prices than the latest stuff but still as good as they were and possibly better than their replacements. And many of the unknown or less marketed or popular brands in one country might be very well know in another country. Seemingly less prestigious brands are owned by the more "prestige" brands and companies anyway as with a lot of purchases higher cost doesn't always mean better but can also possibly be good value depending on your wants and needs - other side less expensive and well known tyres may be great performance and value. "Dry rot" gets many of the tyres before tread wear - example those very disappointing Avon ZT7 for 26 months and 14K-miles use we might just as well bought some really grippy tyres and had a bit of fun with them. BTW the Avon Zt7 started at 6.5mm tread depth new, not all (many now? I've not looked ) start at 8mm tread depth new as many assume without checking, boy the moaning when those that didn't check before buying gave in reviews. 😄 Also BTW best tyres I've had have been Yokos, not BluEarth but my mate has some, not on a Fabia, and said how good they were (I don't which model numbers BuEarth) but he drives in a spirited enough way to find out about grip.

Just to let you know the width over such small changes will have nothing to do with grip as opposed to different model. or make and model, of tyre and its design, build and compounds. As already put wet grip is more important than dry particularly if you live in England where it rains and between being dry. If you want really good grip normally it will mean shorter tread life at least, a lot less miles before they need changing over harder wearing tyres. Which Yoko BluEarths did you have, BluEarth is like putting Fabia, they vary, the sidewall of the tyre not only gives the size but load (and if XL) and speed rating and date of manufacture. My wife's 2015 1.2 TSI SE came with Nexen N blue, definitely not for grip but Mk3 SE are hardy sports set up or suspension anyway. Distress purchase next and went to Nexen N Blue HD Plus, perhaps better but not great grip or handling. On to Avon ZT7, smoother and quieter but very disappointing as two tyres out of four got concerning radial cracking on the inside where you don't see it, in 26 months and only 14k-miles use had to replace them. Swapped those for two Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance, probably the best so far but we don't drive the Fabia for grip or handling really and I've never been one for much more than soft braking and always take it a lot steadier in other than dry conditions. All tyres were/are standard size of 185/60 R15 (84 H). I'd prefer 14" wheels and tyres but never had any issues with kerbing with any of the tyres, other than driver error. I suggest taking all tyre labels results for grip in with fuel efficiency and wet grip with a shovel of salt I've had tyres with poorer rating outperform those with better markings. Age, use, abuse, neglect and tyre pressures (nothing to do with wot the 'puter screen sez) has a lot to do with how a tyre might perform as well as different driving styles and techniques, the driver's previous experience and expectations, how the car is used and loaded - that's why tyre reviews for the same tyre of the same size can vary even on the same model of car. Tyres are a often overlooked and under considered complex component, a big and important part of the braking, steering and suspension systems contributing to the handling, road holding comfort and noise of the car, expected to perform in various varying conditions and circumstances. So better to buy better than seemingly less expensive , depending on your wants and needs.

Depends where you look as to what answer you get, the internet always offers a choice of answers (note I have not double/treble-checked this and it is copyright 2019). - https://www.fcai.com.au/environment/can-my-vehicle-operate-on-ethanol-blend-petrol Most of the stuff about ethanol causing trouble with rubber and stuff in UK comes from old-farts not running, their over-priced, over-valued old cars called "classics" or not running them enough and having rubber parts on the car as old as them. I can say that as I was an old-fart running various over-priced, over-valued old cars called "classics" for 30+ years difference was I actually ran the cars, as dailies, work, commute, holidays, club tours, etc. so I saw and heard all the ethanol doom stories. Was it about 30 years ago the same thing with unleaded petrol ruining the engines, probably from the same old-farts but they were 30 years younger and they probably had some of the exact same "classic" cars when moaning about the ethanol that didn't get ruined by the unleaded. Going back the last few year to about 20 years ago the problem was the introduction of E5 and E10 but the ****-poor Chinese rubbish rubber imperial fuel hose and in other "classic" car parts. Each to their own, but why bother having a VRS petrol or diesel model and not going for the better petrol and diesel fuels (yes I do know why some do it but not so many)..

I thought the plastic cup was rubber, if it's shaped and angled it might be to allow for angle of metal door panel skin, if you have this fitted check you have it at the correct angle/orientation as that may give you more exposed threads on the motor shaft. Sorry I put Tipex wrong, it should be Tipp-Ex, white correction fluid for paper forms and the like, if you have ever been in an office a few years back you would probably have seen it, not so common now and if you don't have a bottle of the fluid that hasn't dried out forget it. Also used to use it to highlight timing marks, position of nuts and bolts when tightened, it lasted long enough for reassurance and sometimes a very long time on things like CB points distributors. Little bottle with brush or foam applicator so easier to get in spaces, bright white so stood out and easy to see. - https://www.viking-direct.co.uk/en/p/4900

Again, you posted as I was typing the first bit of this post (my posts are often (one-finger) typed in stages whilst not multi-tasking) . Prevention, well perhaps partial at least, is better than needing a cure, as I've put above try to have things as (reasonably) clean as possible to help keep things as (reasonably) clean as possible for as long as possible, this will also give you better performance which includes relative good fuel consumption. (after seeing your post now). Not sure why you have a VRS model but that's your business, I was going to put about V8s and fuel consumption but won't now given your concern with the Octavia's consumption. 😆 I'm with you on toll roads though I have used them, and been persuaded (told) to use them by my boss. 😉 Given the low speeds unless you need lugging power wouldn't a smaller more economical engine be better (don't you get the smaller and IMO better Japanese engines and cars there any more (or Chinese for the coal). For the city the stop/start might be useful for fuel consumption and emissions and perhaps autobox and most of the other intrusive driver "aids", get the car's computers programs working for you as they'll have you working for them, particularly if you upset them (by letting the battery get too low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning messages or light yet) the heat much above 20c can be literally draining on the battery. For economy and spirited/"fast" driving, wear and tear on the car's parts, components and systems it's a lot about the driver's driving technique and style (I say this as a not particularly good driver). One of the best tuning aids for the car after or possibly before, full and proper servicing, maintenance and repair of the whole car is driver training and it can be transferred to other cars at no cost or loss. That goes that goes against the macho minds over here too. 😆 I used to see that some in Aus ran their tyres at higher pressures than we do here and what is recommended in the Owner's Manuals, and I've no idea of how they interpreted when the tyres were "cold" but tyres pressures can have an influence on fuel consumption as well of course carrying unnecessary weight, make them walk, 😁 tools, junk, or unnecessary items on the car that increase drag, having lots of electrical items running. Having done a lot of the economical driving and mostly urban city driving you then need to give the car blow-out runs (and a bit more for VRS types), particularly if it's diesel or petrol with GPF negating at least some of the fuel consumption driving. I once done a 200+ mile (320+ km) drive with a 100 m section at 50mpg (5.65 l/100km) when testing engine and carbs set up and another section when my mate joined us at 25mpg (11.3 l/100km), first at well below legal motorway speed limit and second normal motorway speed, you can have it both ways but not at the same time. 🙂

Why not remove the Teflon tape, clean motor shaft cover and nut threads and generous use of threadlock, the rubber washers are taking up small movements so the fitting doesn't need to be "murder tight" as long as the nut remains secure in its position. Thefeliciahacker is the engineer here but I would guess the hole is bigger with washers and nut clamping as - German engineering is as we (but probably not Thefeliciahacker) might say here "not all it's cracked up to be" (exaggerated or misplaced praise, not as good as reputation makes out it is) so you have to allow for variances of fittings and speed and ease of factory assembly exact hole size may cause metal to metal wear exact hole size may cause vibration which would annoy driver and passengers from the door skin panel and later wear of motor shaft cover and/or door skin and operation of wiper.

ETA: Rooted posted whilst I was still typing but I've left my post as it was. I almost posted last night if you were being serious (but had totally forgotten about the date). Over here 97 and 99 octane fuels generally have a higher cleaning additive package in them which might help with regular or fairly regular use in addition to regular proper and timely servicing, of the whole car but engine in this case, engine air filter, spark plugs (good quality engine oil for generally). And I'd suggest driving the VRS as it's designed to be driven when you can to get a good volume of clean (as possible) air and petrol in, through and out of the engine. Depending on what's in the air where you drive changing the air filter more often than service spec might be advisable, unless VW has already taken that into account given you have a 7 year (!!) warranty, The car manufacturers have too much power and influence in Europe and UK for us to get anything like that unless it's an Asian car manufacturer then snobbery and protectionism puts those brands down to keep the likes of VW's prices up and their customers expectations down. Modern sports style engines and transmission gearing are ridiculous given the legal speed limits, Google tells me 130km (81mph) or 110km (68mph) for Aus, in the 1960s 60-ish (or less) horsepower cars would be doing that in the UK (they were of course a lot lighter than modern cars) so the only way you can exercise the modern sports style engines car is acceleration and gear selection which goes against fuel consumption of the cars (even when the manufactures aren't manipulating the figures they give).

ETA: forgot the photo. -

Get GT85 instead as it's a longer lasting lubricant, has PTFE and smells better too than WD-40. - https://gt85.co.uk/ In your case it's shake, spray, walk away (leak to soak). It used to be a British company until one of the invasive American corporations took it over, called WD-40 Company.

Yes I know. That was my point previously, that you could perhaps use some of the old motor parts such as metal and rubber washers, clean and revitalise the rubber washers with whatever you have that is best for the job, metal washers it's up to you whether you clean and polish them. Getting nuts and bolts/setscrews is more difficult now because of the obsession that everything, even a washer, must be posted to the customer rather than the customer going to a shop so retail places that used to stock and sell wide selections of fittings have closed or had to reduce their ranges, you're luck to be dealing with just metric, try getting small sizes of UNF, UNC and getting a selection of BSF, BSW and BSPT, BSPP. 🙂 Until about 10-15 years ago I didn't even know there were three different metric threads. A 14mm spanner size isn't that common but also isn't that rare. Again old British cars you might need spanners of metric, AF, BSF/BSW and Whitworth for older vehicles, some crossover in fitting to nuts and bolts depending on the quality or wear on fittings and spanners. I've been dealing/suffering with Chinese made car parts (not all Chinese made stuff is poor or abysmal quality but a lot can be) for about 20 years which is how I know you sometimes have to be adaptive, and adapt the Chinese parts, to get a good or reasonable fit and working, sometimes you mix and (almost) match old and new bits. You said the length dimensions of the two shaft covers was the same so I assumed this included the length of the treaded section so the photo of the old motor and washers and nut would be relevant. If you want to use the thicker washer(s) then you could look for a half/lock nut which would have more threads on it than the very slim M20 hex nut but take up less motor thread than the supplied whole, standard depth, nut. If you wanted you could add threadlock as anti-vibration security, or my mate reckons Tipex is fine too (unless they've changed the formula).

Very nice offer. I don't need one (well at the moment anyway) but I am curious about it any chance of a photo of it please.

If you saw my previous posts and the keyblade still won't turn you could try having the keyblade half way in then using the applicator straw on a lubricant spray spray into the cylinder lock, leave to soak in for a reasonable while then try turning the key again a good few times. If this doesn't work one more good spray of lubricant as above but leave as long as possible and again try turning the key a good few times. If there's no moment at all then yes you may not have the correct keyblade. Only this afternoon I changed the batteries on both of my neighbour's (Ren-No!-Nissan KESSY equivalent) proximity key remotes so if you have not already done so it might be worth checking the batteries in your KESSY remotes just in case it might help if they are too low too.

Did you see my posts?

skodud, please check you didn't miss my edit of my post, it should have read (and does now) as below. - For RHD - (edit) - put the keyblade in in the cylinder lock with the remote buttons facing the ground to unlock turn the key clockwise towards the front of the car (to lock turn in other direction).

skodud, everything is arse-about-face because VW usually have the driver on the other side of the cars and the instructions in the Owner's Manual aren't as clear as they could be (it seems like later cars had the cylinder lock on the passenger's door too). For RHD - (edit) - put the keyblade in the cylinder lock with the remote buttons facing the ground to unlock turn the key clockwise towards the front of the car (to lock turn in other direction). Now when you open the door the alarm siren will probably go off so you need to get the keyblade into the ignition ASAP to save upsetting your neighbours, I can't remember if you have to turn the ignition on and wonder if the car battery might be too flat anyway. The car's computer programs will want to add to your suffering for allowing the car battery to go flat and will probably want to throw up all sorts of lights and warning messages, subject to sufficient battery power but this can easily be sorted. You need to recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer (for stop/start batteries) or if the battery has been left too long one with a rescue setting on it or perhaps even the cost of a new battery. Once you have full battery power you can get rid of any warning lights and messages quite easily, well those that were related to the flat battery anyway. If you need to take the battery off, or leave it disconnected (to save it going flat again) the instructions for locking the car without battery power are in the Owner's Manual. Any problems just return here and say so.

I follow the sequence of washers and hole aperture and agree with Thefeliciahacker about only the start of the motor thread possibly being poor (and assuming the hex nut has a good thread on it),but I don't see how a spacer will help, perhaps I'm missing something but surely you want to reduce the the thickness of the washers so that more thread is exposed for the nut to clear the poor starter thread, or is all the thread poor.

Thanks. Wow, proper modern car farting about. I can't think a Dealership does all that at a brake fluid change, but perhaps they do (for £75?). Video seemed good.

Thanks I thought that was the case as I read some instructions on another scan tool but we weren't do the brakes at the time, I was just curious. Probably a belt 'n' braces and string 'n' chewing gum exercise to use it but with the cost of the ABS units and possibly some of their locations to use it or not is possible Sod's Law 50/50 lose/win if you do or don't. 😆 I can't remember it being Forscan on what we looking at for a mate but Ian Duncan-Smith (well that's how I remember it) not that it mattered as the vehicle just had the Ford engine and computer bits and didn't have ABS (or servo) or electric windows or other stuff, but we had only one connector (wrong shape IIRC) out of the two and only one socket that my mate could find, week later he found the other socket tucked to the side out of sight, I stored that for the next time I done something stupid with him. 😆 Like the time I done one side and he done the other side of a bit of simple front suspension work and he finished first and I said rushing was how mistakes were made, I looked at his side then mine, I'd done mine wrong way up. 😄

Personally I have never been a fan of pressure bleeders, I assume (always dangerous) that is a "pushy bleeder" (as opposed to a "draggy bleeder") and I wonder about the small amount left in the ABS block. @aubrey would you mind putting a quick description of what the VCDS tells you to do for ABS bleeding please. I'm all for a good flush/rinse through but 4 litres sounds a lot, how big are the pipes on a Yeti. 😄 I loathe the cheap nasty motor trade solution of using cheap nasty brake fluid (in the 20th century let alone 21st) and always had a filled watering can and wet cloths nearby as I once dripped some down the wing without noticing quick enough and it left it's mark (cellulose paint) doh!.