nta16

In car manufacturing costs including parts, were worked out to decimal places of penny/cent/whatever, with the use of Chinese manufacturing who knows how many places after the point - rather opposite to the approach of directors wages/renumerations/bonuses. 😄 Then of course quality testing and assurance might have changed, I remember being told on a club visit to Jaguar (West Bromwich?) how they'd introduced just-in-time-deliveries and were going for the (IIRC?) Omega 6 standard that the Japanese manufacturers had use for years (?6 faults/failures per million?). Wonder if they ever got that. 😆

A couple of lifetimes ago IIRC (always doubtful) the Japanese cars ran on 2-star UK petrol (see below). Didn't Aus used to import (higher quality*) Japanese/Asian vehicles, what made them go over to (lower quality*) German cars? * Note, I'm a rarity on this site as I've never been a VW fan (other than Mk1 Golf Gti and some old older BMWs) but I did own three (proper) Skodas in the UK in the 1980s when the Newspapers had their sheep reader turn the marque into literally laughing stock, possibly because of the low retail selling price and longer warranty period than the accepted marque that advertised in their "news" papers - so I've paid my dues (some of the jokes going about then were very funny). 😄

Well done. I took the remote apart for my wife's car and tried to clean it but no go, the contacts were fine as I know about this from my wife's previous car where the battery was changed as part of the service and hadn't been installed correctly, or that's what I guessed as just taking the cover off the remote and pushing the battery had it working from inside home, so another quick, easy, clean hands repair and from a seated position in the warm and dry - if only all car farting-about was like this. My wife's car always sets the alarm off, it's what the Owner's Manual tell you (tho' not in the relevant part of the book) but on a video of a YT chap I follow done it the alarm didn't go off then. With her previous car the keyblade lock barrel(s) weren't hidden and I almost always unlocked the doors using the keyblade as that too was the synchronising method and I prefer mechanical over electronic (and saving the battery for my wife's my wasteful use). I hope you're teaching your kids all the driver maintenance checks and work they should be doing and that you don't have to and shouldn't rely on pushing a button to do everything for them or expect a warning light or message to advise or get them out of trouble as they won't on these VW very complex computer programs, by the time you get many of the messages things have gone too far. Certainly for the car battery, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery could still be too low for the 5v computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before any warning lights and messages (and error codes) show and by the time the low battery shows the battery has been possibly badly wounded and if left to engine won't start battery might not be reliably recovered. The German marques including VW love to show how "clever" they are but complex computer programs so you need a scan tool that reliably covers VW or dedicated to VW (legacy systems with car manufacturers). Luckily their are Briskoda members who can offer to help out often for beer tokens. For your kids I'd suggest you fit a coin meter for the car battery to teach them about electric consumption. 😆 Being serious I think it's important and empowering for car owners to know about all the driver maintenance and basics mechanics/electrics (not that I know, or ever knew, or can remember, even the very basics) particularly for the more venerable that way they learn about prevention, what to do to avoid some breakdowns and being taken advantage of by those who are unscrupulous particularly in the motor trade. If you have a look on the site you might see advice on getting remotes sorted by other than VW Dealerships, I just feel somethings are too important to have any reliability or trust issues on, certainly for my wife, plus all the hassle and responsibility would be transferred to me anyway and I'd sooner pay "hassle money" to prevent or avoid it. My wife went on 10-weeks night lessons for car maintenance basics in the 1980s but she expects me to do all the stuff even though she could do a lot of the stuff herself, I only need to know she could do it if she had to and all she needs to know is it's my job to do it. 😆 Be interesting to know if your kid(s) 2015 has the underside bump/clunk/squeak/rattle(s) noises. Cheers.

ETA: in case you don't know, forgot or haven't read it in the Owner's Manual, the car alarm will go off if you use the "emergency" door lock and open the door so you have to get the keyblade in the ignition barrel ASAP, I forget if you also need to turn the key to any position or not.

Hi welcome. I'm not sure if you're the new learner with new car or you mean someone else but you are way ahead of many either way by knowing about the red button and how to synchronise the remote. I'm not sure about getting a non-VWSkoda remote or s/h and getting someone to program it, I've seen one horror story on here of even a good professional outfit having a 1 in 10,000 problem and having experienced "1 in 5,000" error with car electronics myself (Japanese were more like 6 in a million IIRC with car stuff) and given the price you have been quoted, for a car new to you (or other person) provided this is the only major fault with the car, I'd suggest you buy from and have a VWSkoda Dealership install ('code') the new remote. I had the same thing with my wife's 2015 (1.2 TSI, 90 SE) last year year, February, on the coldest day of that time so can give you the figures from just after then. "N/SOCK KEY" 23/01/23 (so I remember wrong, again, about month 🫠) £143.40 (inc VAT) - 15/02/23 "CARRY OUT REPAIR PROGRAM KEY - KEY ORDERED AND INSTOCK REF PAUL" - £41.40. This was even more annoying as I have my wife alternate the use of the two remotes (every 6 months) so that the remote, remote battery, keyblade and ignition cylinder lock all get more even wear through more even use and it also means we know where the second remote/key is and that the battery isn't too low or flat and the remote that failed was the one with the least use from prior to her ownership of the car. As you probably know you can still use the keyblade on the duff remote so if the car is very new to you (or other) and you have limited funds then I might suggest holding off it's replacement until you have checked the money isn't needed for greater priority things on or with the car. If you don't already know I'd suggest you check the state of charge (and health if possible) of the car 12v battery and use an appropriate battery charger maintainer (the lower amperage charger the better) to fully charge the battery, following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and charger manual, if you get a reading of say less than say 12.3v (allowing for 0.2/0.3v computers draining). Free VWSkoda pdf Owner's Manuals download - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Update portal - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Skoda Recall Campaigns (well those they admit to) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH.

Personally I'd check the car battery clamps and state of charge, that's just driver maintenance anyway, clean and lubricate the existing button and its connections and order a new button for quick delivery to keep my wife happy - that's my 30+ years experience of using over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" as dallies and for holidays and more. Despite what some say I always found genuine period Lucas electrics to be great with some still working after 50+ years, unlike the modern VW stuff it would seem.

Could be personal reasons that are nobody else's business or just a personal decision for any number of reasons but whatever it is there's never a need for justifications for whether someone posts or not, stays or goes, all is voluntary. As far as I've seen Andreas has always offered help to others regardless of any perceived level or expertise or not they appear to, or not, possibly have, or not. And has helped us even though we often disagree, always giving answer when asked. Life happens to all of us and at all ages.

Hi, welcome. You would need to know exactly what part (number) is ordered to ask the local dealer of supply and delivery problems, seems silly to me that the mechanic/garage won't tell you what part it is they can't get. I don't know but it might be an expensive part so it needs to be the correct part to resolve the issue (or at least be a correct part to help resolve the issue not just parts cannon being fired without fully reasoning. Has your mechanic/garage got fully appropriate diagnostics tool(s) or experience of a VW / Skoda (Fabia) 2016. There are usually alternative parts and suppliers but if available on this part your mechanic/garage may not want to use them to ensure the part actually fits and works well and for warranty for him and you (his time your costs of his labour).

@Dandesc you did ask for opinions. 😃 Which marker is it down to, the rain or TWI (Tread Wear Indicator)? Making any judgements from an imagine on a device is difficult and full of pitfalls I think. If your tyre is only worn on the outside markers you might ask why that is, is that common for your model and year or a fault of car or tyre, is the front tyre on the other side the same. You don't need tread for dry warmer road surfaces but if you drive in England you know even when this is the case it could soon change so then you might need tread to push the water away to get the 'rubber' to contact the road surface. For the aquaplaning you were going too fast for the circumstances, doesn't matter what number or where the needle was on the speedo but we all make mistakes and I'm certainly not a good driver. If the aquaplaning really wasn't your fault (really?) then you will want to change that tyre ASAP or find out what else was at fault. IIRC elsewhere 3mm is considered the minimum, and perhaps here if you have a sportscars, that measurement will upset many. 😆 And though many think tyres start at 8mm, or 7mm, some start at less. Best thing to do is measure the tread depth across the whole tyre with a gauge or whatever, avoid any unseen raised bits inside the tread that might give false readings, look at the tyre generally, all the thread and sidewall(s) and decide how worn it looks (to really check the whole tyre you really need the car in the air or wheel off the car). The following video has labelled sections and shows things like how to measure tread depth using a 20p coin and gauge and also other information. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aB1D7iJOgE0 I think it depends on where and how you drive as to when, what depth, you should change your tyre (subject to the rest of the tyre being in good or reasonable condition). HTH. You may, or may not, want to report back with your measurements, findings, decision or resolve. Good luck.

I know we often don't agree with each other but you will be a loss to the forum whilst you're gone and I sincerely wish the best for you in life, here or anywhere.

That's possibly two different things - stop/start button I assume you mean "ignition" button to turn the electrics on and then start the engine, as in turning the key to two different positions in the days of keyblades doing this (or do you mean the stop/start that cuts the engine out when stationary to save fuel and cut emissions?). Button could be the button needs replacing or if you're the slightest handy perhaps pop it out and clean an lubricate the bottom and its wire connections, might solve it or make it last longer, use WD-40 if nothing better is to hand, easily available in shops too as they've saturated the market. Another even easier and important check - that the car battery post terminal clamps are both clean and secure, grab one at a time by hand if you can move them (unless you're very strong) then it needs nipping (tightening) up. Same for the main cable and wires and connectors (including earths) clean, secure and protected. If there's a decent garage nearby (some mat still exist(?)) then get them to check the state of charge of the battery, if low you need to recharge and/or not use convenience electrics like a/c, heated anything, heavy use plug-ins, motorised stuff on the car (little as possible for safety items). RAC will be the first to sell you one of their expensive batteries whether you really need it (rather than proper charging) or not (unless you have their battery cover).

I wouldn't suggest or advise fitting your own battery if this is going to be covered by warranty as it will also need to be to their Warranty spec and 'coded' in to their warranty spec - and if it's not the battery actually at fault (very likely in my opinion and statistics) then this may hinder further investigation. As put charge the battery but make sure you follow the instructions for how to charge the battery in the Owner's Manual and the charger instructions. If your CTek is a 7-amp then if you can borrow an appropriate charger of lower amps then do as a low charge might (or might not) get more in and have it last longer than 7 or above charger. It may take the charger a (very) long time to get to full (if it ever gets to full with this battery) but the longer left charging (usually) the better and if necessary you can do it in stages. It may be that the battery is too tired or messed up to ever get to full charge or hold the charge for too much time or car use. Get to where the battery won't start a modern cars can often be too far from charging and this is your second non-start. Even for modern cars 2 years is a very short battery life which suggests possible alternator/computer programming faults or excessive user(s) use/abuse/neglect or possibly dodgy battery (least probable) or a combination of any of above. The battery being so low in charge on a modern car that it won't start the engine is a bit like a first heartache attack or stroke it may weaken things too much so that a second or third occasion is very unwanted, or perhaps terminal - but others have had very low batteries limp along for a long time by use of an appropriate battery charger, but they were not 2022 cars. Newer cars I would suggest will have even more similar issues which is why I try to promote the use of appropriate chargers which older folk have forgotten about (despite having to charge these "smart" phones/devices everyday, or few hours it seems to me blissfully without them).

Like many owners, particularly of later / latest models, as the engine started and the lights seemed bright enough you missed the driver's warning sign of low battery with the start/stop being inoperative, that was the time to charge the battery, preferably with an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and for the charger. Unfortunately by the time you got the 'low battery' warning the battery had had too much use, abuse and neglect for your C-Tek to recover it. Once a battery gets too low it never fully recovers even if it continues to work and carry on. On the plus side you seemed to have missed the other possible unexpected issues, error codes, warning lights and messages that other have reported with continued use of the car with a battery in poor state of charge / health. These modern cars have a lot of convenience high consumption electrical items and lots of computers and programs that only run on 5v so you don't want your battery too low for them. The higher heat of the summer effects the battery as well as the cold of winter so battery charging isn't just about winter car/battery use, or lack of use. 5k-miles per year is low mileage meaning the car's alternator may not be able to keep up with the car's and battery's use - the answer is preventative charges, in this case certainly with an appropriate charger maintainer or having the maintainer on the battery when the car is not in use for a while. If you want your new battery to last longer then you can help it with preventative charges. My mate has a couple of identical expensive C-Tek chargers and they gave different performance to each other when used on his two vehicles and yours is the second instance just recently where I've read of a C-Tek hasn't recovered the battery but then a cheap "smart" charger might have also failed, as said these "smart" chargers ain't that smart. From the 2020/07 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

ETA: Plantse posted whilst I was still typing my post, I've not altered my post (other than typo editing) I fitted Pagid to front and rear of my wife's 2015 MK3 SE 1.2 TSI 90 and they were and are fine - but take little notice of of past reputations that may or may not still be deserved, like German engineering being necessarily high quality, that was last century. Brembo were of internment quality a few years back. Pagid are one of TMD Friction's brands along with Textar, Mintex, Don, Cobreq and Bendix. Then there's our local family brake business, now a bit bigger, EBC favoured by many. Despite being local I've never used their products but I did used to know someone that used to work for Pagid Performance Braking a couple of decades. I think it's Carlston and others that like ATE, again I've never used them. Anyone my age would probably have used Mintex over the decades. Do bear in mind the tyres are also important to the braking system (and steering and suspension) they need to be in good condition regardless of tread depth left on them or age. Clean and lubricate the other brake parts as required when changing and us new fittings where required (Pagid rear pads included screws). Changing the pads and discs on my wife's 2015 MK3 SE 1.2 TSI 90 were the easiest brake changes I've done in my limited experience of doing such, so I done posts with notes for those that are interested. 'front brake pads and discs fitting tips' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499752-front-brake-pads-and-discs-fitting-tips 'Changing rear brake discs and pads, notes and tips' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517740-changing-rear-brake-discs-and-pads-notes-and-tips HTH.

A case of fat finger, ****-eyed, not wearing glasses. All too new for me, I had to think if 72 was 2023, I only know my alphabet by going through suffix plate years, then only really starting at 1970 ('J') (Mk2 into Mk3 Cortina IIRC) as even I'm not that old (but Rooted and rum4mo would know pre-reg). 😁 I have done a bit of research on council kept and issued plates for "historic" (old) cars and it wasn't until the 1990s that I learnt about the part year (I knew up to 'h' in the alphabet !) Perhaps I should have used this as my eye chart.

Yes unfortunately when you put you didn't think it was the correct key, knowing your story a bit, I thought "par for the course" (not that I play golf) but was just hoping it was just a case of the lock never have been used and gritted up a bit. Sorry I think you might have to get the bonnet up (to get the battery out) I think there were some posts on this but can't remember how it might be done, or about alarm, a Search might find them, I can't even remember for sure if it was in this Fabia Mk3 forum or another model forum on here. ETA: Sorry, my wife's Fabia is away now until at least the middle of this month so I can't go and look for you. Someone else here might know or remember. At least you have the time not to rush this or need to get a locksmith or breakdown service (unless you want to). Let us know how you get on.

Seeing rum4mo reminds me, as it's an EFB particularly you could disconnect the battery management connector at the battery negative terminal and not worry about 'coding' or the system interfering with stuff, change the battery with a battery charger on or off the car without needing to tell it what you're doing. A minor freedom from one of the VW dictates and take full responsibility and control of the battery charging by driving or charger on or off the car. Imagine that rum4mo, or remember it, the memory is fading for me and it's not be two-years since I only really thought about the battery after 10 years of use and parked up no-use. My wife got a hire car delivered today, just our luck it's a VW product, 1.0 3cylinder SEAT, 75 plate 10k-miles, but the driver had checked the oil and topped it up (and had really done it before delivery and not just saying so). It's a VW SEAT so the coolant (pink, called lilac G12evo by VW of course) has to be checked, warmish engine, warm day and it's a nat's below the MIN line on level ground, something to photo and monitor before journeys outside of limping home distance. Drove the car round the block to repark it and at putting the handbrake on I thought I'd best reassign a few of the radio presets for the boss, only a few minutes in and the engine restarts. Oh yes, I thought. Multimeter out, yeap, battery charger out and connected up. Only a small battery, about 2/3rds of the tray space but the figures were slow to rise, might take more than the 6 hours available. On check 5+ hours later charger has "FUL". I'm sure it'd had lasted the next 4 days of 2-mile journeys but the slightest whiff of a warning light or message of any sort and I'll get a distressed phone call and I'm on 4-mile walk with a carrier bag of tools and little chance of even a mug of tea until everything is fully resolved and reassurances accepted, like on the coldest day of last year when the VWSkoda remote decided to fail. I did stop on the way back to help the (newer) ali XJ) Jag driver I'd seen on my way there waiting for Breakdown service, long story short - battery. He thought he could get home despite knowing the battery was down on his way into work the night before. B i g battery, IIRC 1.2v, lowest I've seen. I checked my multimeter against one of the brand new Duracell button batteries I'd bought in case the cold had got to the electronics but no that showed the expected 3.dot, dot. He tells me he was showing his boss the car at 5 am with the heated seats on, how he made it as far as he had surprised me. At least it was well passed rush hour by then and they might really only be another hour-or- so before they got to him and the Jag could be rescued from the high kerb on the now not so busy road I'd have kept the Jag four wheels on tarmac with a kerb that high with risks of scratches and dents.

20 years ago we were on one of our multi-marque "classics" and sportscars club's weekend tours away in Suffolk, England, an area quite rural and near and on the the east coast where things are laidback and people go to retire. The villages had 20mph (32kph) limits which was fine but new (-ish?) to us at the time but also the roads between them were down to 40mph (64kph), instead of 60mph (96kph), which was unusual. Even on the Saturday (or any other day I guess) we encountered elderly local "Sunday drivers" which was fine. I couldn't get by one and we dutifully followed at below 40mph (64kph) on the road between villages, which was fine. When we got to the villages we obviously slowed (even more) to 20mph (32kph) to watch the old couple sail on through the village at their below 40mph but well above 20mph. By the time we got out of the village having stuck to the speed limit the elderly couple were well ahead and by the time we caught up nowhere to overtake and back into a village, us at 20mph them at below 40mph . . . not so fine. 🙂 This Saturday we ventured over the county boundary into the posh area of North Oxfordshire, back roads so they wouldn't notice us, and the cut across country road was now limited to 50 mph (80kph) and all villages 20mph (32kph), last time were on that road not too many years back it was at National Speed Limit (single-lane) 60mph (96kph) and 30mph (48kph). Must be all these really heavy and large (even "small") modern cars with overpowered engines and driver aids, robbing drivers of driving abilities and common sense that need restricting. 😁

My mate's weren't ES32 (IIRC). 185/60 r15 is a nominal 4.4" (112mm) sidewall rubber and air (pneumatic) (partial) cushioning and shock absorbing 215/45 r16 is a nominal 3.8" (97mm) 215/40 r17 is a nominal 3.4" (86mm). If it wasn't for decades of wheel fashion the Fabia would be on a 13" or 14" wheel, 70 or 65 would be low profile tyre. Your car you decide what fashion you want but do consider the state of the roads you drive on and again whilst there will be a difference in handling of a 215 to 1875 grip is about the design, build and compound of the tyre. A good set of 185 driven well will out perform in feel (remote though it is in a modern car) an average set of 215 but if it's fashion looks then you need to "fill the arches" with big wide wheel and skinny tyre your money, your choice, just remember fashion often has little to do with being comfortable or practical. Others will be able to help on s/h wheels, there might be some advertised on this site (but I've not looked). Let us know how you get on.

Thanks for your replies. To save you reading all below if you don't want to, short(er) answer - get a new replacement battery and do preventative recharges when required with the next battery and it should give less hassle and last longer. For 'coding' I got my battery 'coded' by a Briskoda form member for a beer-token, you could look and see if anyone local to you is able to help you out, otherwise it makes sense to get the battery from Halfords and have them code it correctly, it only needs one digit change to the "serial" number to say the battery is new, the correct type of battery recorded (EFB or AGM "fleece") and correct Ah, nothing more. Be careful about Halfords with 'coding' as some on here have put they have been told the batteries don't need 'coding' at some Halfords by some Halfords employees, I don't know only repeating what they put. Example only.- See here for members with VCDS and other scan tools/apps. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Let us know how you get on. Longer stuff.- 6a isn't high but 4 or 2 would be better, longer, lower slower is the trick - but it sounds like you either need to trick that expensive "smart" charger or the battery has been flogged too much and too often. My neighbour had TopDon scanner with battery facility (at extra cost), like all computer programs they're not always right and reliable and cover all cars and batteries but you will know if yours does and is up to date with, er updates. If you have confirmed the testing equipment with other good reliable and tested testing equipment fair enough. Multimeter probes on the battery posts about 24hours after battery was disconnected from charging should let you know drop and state of battery. By rescued I meant a setting on the battery charger (or revived not necessarily using a "smart" (they ain't) charger. If the battery is truly sealed then you can't lift the plugs off to see the state of the plates and "water" level before (or after) to see if it's all worth the effort and how much more life you might get out of the battery if you need or want to. Paul I don't think I know you sometimes have to and can trick modern and "smart" chargers to charge a battery they deem as "replace", some won't try recharging if the battery to them is 6v, 7.2v, 7.3v and possibly otherv. I don't know for sure if I can trick the (not-so) "clever" (VW) Skoda battery programming so as to fit an exact (or near enough Ah) new replacement battery and have the program full working without 'coding' but as some posters have not bothered with 'coding' at all (on that sort of age Skoda) and reported no problems it'd not be too much of a loss. Now whether those batteries will not last as long as if they had been 'coded' I can't say as it's not me. Nothing wrong with expensive fancy chargers but I have manged with more basic chargers over decades and still and have seen and heard of £15 Lidl "smart" chargers doing good work and for a number of years with one of my neighbours, on the other side a mate has two identical expensive C-tek charges and they operate slightly differently showing slightly different on their lights and time of charge when used on the same two vehicles. Same as with scan tools, very good to have but the basics, without or without other tools, are very often need to be used to confirm and/or progress the resolve.

Gorilla is the only "super glue" I've found that sticks anything and not just my fingers but I've no idea of how it is with metal threads, thing is if it sticks well you might have to ruin the nut and possibly metal/rubber washers to get the nut off again and still might have a bit of the nut stuck to the motor threads.

Hi Welcome, for this and lots of other useful information on your car and to save you hassle and expense on unnecessary garage repairs read the Owner's Manual and then refer to it when required. ETA: foglight bulb is on p189 in my wife's car's manual If you've not been given the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf version from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models No disrespect to you but before you go changing the bulb have you checked it is the bulb and not something else, have you operated the switch as required (see Owner's Manual), could it be another part or system at fault. A tip, don't let the battery get too low in charge otherwise the VW computer programs will make you pay for that mistake, even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning lights or messages (yet) the battery could be too low for the computers and cause all sorts of unexpected problems and then unexpected warnings. Unless you know the battery is recent (and 'coded' in correctly best you have an appropriate battery charger maintainer and consider doing preventative chargers with it. Good luck, let us know how you get on. Also, Update portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Recalls (well the ones VWSkoda have admitted to). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

I saw the "Trafigura agrees terms to acquire Greenery’s European business" in the Greenergy history page but had no clue about who they are. - https://www.greenergy.com/our-history [Greenergy] - "Supplying around a quarter of the UK’s road fuels, Greenergy is also a leading European manufacturer of biodiesel from wastes, operating plants in the UK and the Netherlands." Yeap, it's grown. AS for what the country or people of the country own don't get me started, we don't even own the rain that falls from the sky and don't get me started on when and why that started . . . . still, look on the bright side, we'll be dead soon so none of it matters to us old-farts. 😁

Good point, I know generally they're not for plastic threads but I don't know if they would really do any harm to the rubber washers in this instance as the rubber is not holding fluids in under pressure and just holding out ow pressure external rain or wash water. You could perhaps clean off any excess or make sure none gets on or to the rubber washes by applying the threadlock only at a certain point of threads on the shaft cover arm threads, or coat the rubber washers in silicone grease at the possible threadlock excess contact area. If you are really worried or need to know then best to contact the manufacturer of the threadlock for its suitability against rubber as a non-binding or sealing agent. ETA: Personally I'd not give it a second thought.

Thanks I saw that bit, it was the Tesco bit I was interested in as I think a good while back I looked before, but not too much, and couldn't see if Tesco were still involved but saw how much the Greenergy had grown. If I don't ask straight away I forget again, it's of no real importance to me just curious, while I remember. Cheers.