nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As my neighbour's older Ring charger and battery tester has (+)5c for winter setting I take it as that, I suppose I should check with Ring to be sure. The winter mode is to allow for the cold as the battery like many other things isn't at its best when cold so there's a small increase in the charger's voltage to help overcome the effects of the cold. The battery likes when the ambient temperature is say 5c to 20c, when it's 30c the battery is (self) discharging itself at double the rate than at (twenty) 20c and at 40c (as we saw here last summer) the discharge is double the rate than at (thirty) 30c. If the battery itself is already warmer you do not want or need to increase the voltage to overcome the cold. No doubt the charger could be made a lot more complex with various and variable settings but more complex often means more problems, as you've found on the car already. You already have 6-amps over 4-amps you don't want to be rushing anymore in my opinion. You're better off charging the battery before it gets too low so this will take a shorter time than if it's at a lower state of charge whatever amperage of charger you use. Not letting the battery get too low in state of charge will also extend the life of the battery. Both of these mean there is less need for higher faster charges.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. On a quick search I can't find that model number on Google so can't comment on it other than 8 amps is higher and quicker for charging which isn't always better for charging and may or may not combine with other factors to this battery's charging. I would check the charger output perhaps and monitor it to check it's performing as it should - and check the battery charge showing on the battery terminals after the fully charged and the charger disconnected about 12 hours, about 15, 18 and 24 hours . The battery would need to be resting and car not used, the idea to see how well the charge is held after settling from being fully recharged. VWSkoda usually recommend 0.1 or less charging rate of the battery capacity if charger is connected to car. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes please do. Another poster ordered one but found the pictorial instructions difficult to follow, perhaps the unit was too easy or not automatic enough for what he was expecting (despite having the hyperlinks to look at). For 12v car, connect up to car (or battery), plug in to mains, press selector button once for 12v car and a second time for 12v car winter setting. The leaflet doesn't say but I take the winter setting as to be used for charging when the temperature is below (+/plus)5c. I could put something else but that might be auto-suggestion and it might not be relevant now, if you mention it I will refer to this and if you don't I'll mention it as a total generalisation. Have a look at the other terminal cover for part numbers and date and see if that varies too, you'd think they be available or fitted as pairs, but . . . I do too but I bet the Dealers say 5 years and the newer the car the more the battery has to do, jumps from 2015 to 2017 and again to 2022/3. I think we're back to the stage where some sort of battery gauge is required on cars. Let us know when you've fully recharged the battery how things went and are with the car. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Got interrupted - I also meant to put you can get batteries tested at various places, mainly because they want to sell you a new one of course but there are some honest people around. Are your charging figures just off one instrument have you confirmed them by using another instrument that you know to be reasonable accurate and reliable?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If the 'coding' wasn't done until after a year later from battery installation and the previous battery was an EFB then this might be something as the early life of the battery and it's discharging and charging will have a big influence on the battery's performance and life. It's very rare to hear of a (true) faulty new battery or even old battery as the fault(s) are elsewhere. Are there any know updates or recalls for the car? Next reason batteries fail is usually charging problems, often with the alternator but could also be with the charging system (including its program perhaps(?). Questions: . What type (make/model/ amperage/settings) of battery charger are you using? . Charged on or off the car? , what do you mean by the charger turned off (15 hours or less doesn't sound very long (depending on charger) for a very low battery?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The Skoda authorized service center should have advised you to fully recharge the battery and just driving the car will not do this and might even depleted the battery further. Yes it might get another year out of it but if you fully recharge it with an appropriate battery charger as soon as possible and then keep a check on the battery state of charge when required and when required fully recharge the battery it could last a lot longer than another year. The number cause of breakdown callouts in the UK - "Flat or faulty battery - Battery faults are the most common cause of breakdowns – especially in the winter." It is extremely rare for the battery to be faulty in itself more usually caused by user's use, abuse and neglect of the battery by the vehicle owner/user. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes Particularly as your battery had a long low slow drain of the battery that is how you should recharge it and not with a higher fast charge. Personally I would use a 4-amp, or lower, charger and maintainer but no more than a 6-amp or 7-amp charger and maintainer depending on your battery's Ah rating, see below from Owner's Manual. - I noted your Mk3 change, thanks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. All that is possible but 110km isn't much for testing, hopefully it was a number of issues combined to present so badly but they will not be repeated. Given the explanation by the Skoda authorized service center I hope they also checked and reported to you the battery for state of charge and health, if not get them to do so as even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery could still be too low for the computers and this could cause all sorts of unexpected issues with or without warning lights and messages (and error codes) which could cause you concern and perhaps issues. A small note, I know you have the year as 2017 but as there was a previous Fabia 3 (Mk2) can I suggest you consider to perhaps save confusion in future threads you use Fabia Mk 3 instead of Fabia 3.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think the coding might have got more obscure in more recent years but I don't know as I've only tried looking the dates up a very few times ever because the battery's history can be more important than it's age, it's like bank accounts some people can deplete down to nothing a lot quicker than others. Well done on 10 years, many seem to think 5 years or won't get passed 7 years and with some people and perhaps more recently made cars 5 years will be a good achievement.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. There is a school of thought that if you do a like for like change, i.e. in your case the replacement battery is an EFB of 69Ah then the computer will 'learn' the improvement with use of the car. Or you could look at the 'coding' as not being needed instantly but later. Better to get the 'coding' done (by someone who can put in correct info) at battery change so the computer knows straight away - and if changing battery type and or Ah then 'coding' will be required as the computer won't know of the change of type or Ah. This VW 'coding' stuff was all new to me and introduced me more into the 'joys' of VW computer programing (which seems to allow an entry of 7Ah instead of 70Ah, lacks proper programing there, the writers must have worked for banks previously). Hopefully it shouldn't take two days but it's no problem anyway with the smart charger and maintainers as when the battery is full (or 'FUL' on the Ring 8s) they switch to maintenance mode which can be left on the car for a long time. I'd guess that is the date when that part (terminal cover) was made it would relate to the original battery but not necessarily be the same date as the battery was manufacturer and it could be transferred to a later battery replacement. The whole car is just a collection of parts possibly made on different dates and then there can be lots of transport with parts and components during manufacture and assembly of the parts let alone the car. On the batteries (it used to be at least) that on it or it's labelling there'd be some code to the date of manufacturer, the coding systems would vary but often they can be decoded from internet info. I'd not worry about it with your battery because the age is a lot less relevant than how a battery performs and is used, abused or neglected.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd only add the use of a barely damp synthetic (life's too short for the leather) chamois kept in a closable plastic (food) bag and angling the sunvisors to keep more of the blown air going to windscreen can help to speed up the windscreen clearing. For the reusable microwave bags we use a pair of Pingi bags ay the windscreen. - https://pingi.com/shop/marine/pingi-car-dehumidifier-lv-a350-double-pack-2/ All these things help but you can't beat nature and physics, modern cars have so much glass area, it just takes a bit of time and won't be instant. Same with wiping or scrapping all the water or ice of all the glass areas (or all the snow off the car) it just takes time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. varooom I'm fully with you about getting much more out of the existing battery (if possible and depending on circumstances) I've now highlighted in bold about where I'd put what I'd do - but I have hard (luck) standing and external mains socket at home. I'm not as sure about going AGM now as I previously was, depends on engine bay heat and the insulation protection to the battery and the use of the vehicle (and if you'd bother with coding for like-for-like change). I think I'd now see how long the existing EFB battery lasts with the use the car is given and the use, abuse and neglect the battery gets and decide from there whether to stick with EFB or go AGM. Battery prices and availability can vary from time to time so that may be another factor. Taking your point though here's a list of Tayna's 096 AGM for @WillRB and others. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-agm/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes it helps a lot thanks. The VW battery numbering BEM QR (abc...wxyz) system is thankfully a thing of the past so don't have to worry about VW's need for statistics. I would fully recharge that battery and keep it as long as possible. Banner is a well known name for batteries but as with other items some brands and names are known better in some places than others and a name you've not heard of could be a main brand elsewhere. I think your battery is equivalent to a 096 battery size - @varooom can confirm or point out my error, Tayna Batteries list of 096 EFB (required for start/stop) battery list (including Banner). - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096-efb/ You want a battery of the correct type and physical size for fitting and at least the 680 (EN/SAE) cold cranking amps for starting and 69Ah (amperage hours) storage capacity as this matches factory fitted. As for battery charger and maintainer some have been buying the £15 one from Lidl and many favour C-Tek but I think they're a bit expensive, having said that my old Accumate are now £62. ETA: Follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual for recharging. However without any research (other than owning a 30+ years old 4-amp traditional charger and a 20+ year old 4-stage, 1.2 amp charger and maintainer) I went for one I saw somebody else using. It's rated at 4 amps which is more than enough unless you don't have time (or patience), works down to -20c, is automatic to standard and start/stop batteries, other than selecting car (12v) or car (12v) for winter setting (it doesn't say so but I take that as when the temperature is below (+)5c). I got it for £23.49 off eBay, other suppliers and prices available of course. There is also a 6 amp (faster charging) version. The one I have, Ring RSC 804 - 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804 Ring RSC 806 - 6A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC806 RSC804_RSC806_RSC808_Instructions.pdf RSC804_Spec.pdf Below is the RSC 804 connected to my wife's Fabia, with an 18-month old AGM battery, charged overnight outside when the temperature went down to -3.5c, after 16 hours it wasn't fully recharged but the car was needed and within an hour the next evening it was showing full.

No. Lazy, bigoted wording response, and from someone who says they're in Brighton, please explain or justify that response or be honest and show yourself for how you really are and feel. ETA: same for any poster currently residing in France, you know who you are.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm not the biggest fan of Haynes as the 1974 and 1980 versions of my last car carried over errors and omissions and the 1990 version for the gearbox I had was very unclear with details but I like the colour and simplicity of the diagram you posted - subject to accuracy, that was missing from the Owner's Manual for my wife's 2015 Fabia. Thank you.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Forgive me, to slightly suggest someone who is also an engineer might be slightly off 100% correct, I am truly not worthy of your slightest recognition, I soil the ground your your boots tread on on. If I understood, even after Googling, what you were on-about I'd gladly give you £5, whether you'd earn it or not. as I bow to your superiority over me. Does bull**** baffle brains, I've no idea I'm not that clever, let me know. Are you really in Brighton with that sort of terminology. I realised I overstepped the mark by questioning your attitude please forgive me as I'm well below you. Once again I have questioned those better than me without knowing what I'm doing. please take pity on me, or at least try to humiliate me with something I can't look up on Google (if not fully understand). As always, love and kisses to you. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Grasshopper, you are learning, although truly there's nothing wrong with being a traffic warden other than perhaps the actual person who is in that position (same as any other profession or trained, certificated, perhaps part-time or full-time "uni" position) . I'm glad for you that your mental health isn't inhibited as your understanding, or at least (partial) acceptance, reluctantly, expands (improves), it's truly a joy to be aware of. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thank you. I did wonder if that might be the case but a 1990 printed Haynes is the newest I've seen.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @KeithCheetham your clumsy attempt at sarcasm was off mark as the OP question, and later related question, was answered and clarified early on in the thread so there was no need for anyone to read further posts, related or drift, if they didn't want to. @sepulchrave you contributed to thread drift halfway through Page 1 and put two more posts about Elise tyres on Page 2 so now your upset is partially self-inflicted and anyway as the OP question, and later related question, was answered and clarified early on in the thread so there was no need for anyone to read or contribute further posts, related or drift, if they didn't want to. You obviously have been corrupted into thread drift. 😉 Serious question: why don't one or both of you become Moderators then you might be able to better control what you want to see in the threads (or buy the site and have the strict control you want)? Wonder how many groans I get for this post. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @TMB where do you get such clear diagrams from please?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I lose posts too. Well if the alarm works you're covered for insurance at least. The little red flashing LED is so last century, as I'm usually passenger side I didn't notice for ages after my wife got the car. Perhaps your alarm has been swapped and that light is redundant. As already put I don't think any would-be thief would take any notice if it was there or not, many will already have flashing lights in their heads perhaps. My neighbour had an aftermarket system fitted many years back with a little numerical keypad on the dash and long after it had stopped working his wife used to pretend to put in the code. Across the road an aftermarket in an old carvan with a blue LED that's so big and bright behind the rearview mirror that you can't avoid seeing it even when you want to, yet the alarm whistle is quite quiet.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Now toot you're being a bit unfair, perhaps they meant it's 85% of 1 litre, MPI, manual, 2020, colour Edition Fabias in the UK area of Stourbridge served by Johnson’s garage. 😄 Car manufacturers don't exactly shout about all the problems they have with their products and perhaps some even go out of their way to hide some of the issues, how else can they maintain the belief in German engineering quality. 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If your cooling fan is on all the time that could contribute to the charge in your car's battery depleting which also might trigger your start/stop to disable, you would normally get a warning about this but often these warnings can come too late and just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it can be that the battery is in a low state of charge which can trigger other warnings and possible issues. I would ask the Skoda dealer to test the battery and give me the printout or record of the result, batteries aren't cheap for these cars. Personally I would buy an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (my recent purchase cost £23.49 and Lidl had some at £15) as battery/charging problems are the number one cause of breakdown callouts - not trying to scare you just inform you and you will find that on the net, try The AA website. I was speaking with a chap yesterday waiting for a recovery truck for his big 2009 Jaguar, he knew he had battery issues (not the battery really) but still put all the glass heaters on, blower and both front seat heaters at 5 am before leaving his place of work when it was -2c, some people just don't help themselves. His battery gave up the punishment on a busy road before 9 am, breakdown van can told his the alternator (which helps the battery) was dead and he need a loader (and he had the big long Jaguar, XJ) hopefully it arrived with him at the promised 1 pm.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Murdockman posted whilst I was still typing. One thing I would say don't bother with WD-40 Multi-Use instead get a can of GT85 and it will disperse the water and is a better lubricant than WD-40 Multi-Use and doesn't contain silicone which some say can coat the paintwork, GT85 has PTFE. ETA: It will also help to ease the rubber back into place.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you want to know if you have a (factory) working alarm fitted then just use the keyblade to open the door and do not put the key into the ignition lock and switch the ignition on within 15 seconds after unlocking the door - you and your neighbours will soon know. Or perhaps you don't want to know and assume for insurance purposes that it is working. I too prefer not to have a car alarm or electronic immobiliser just more potential for trouble.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @NeilMH you can save screen space and virtual ink by ending the link after the itm (item) number, as in. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325285385141 The rest is the search path you took apparently, or so I was told. That's different to the one in the spare wheel well of my wife's 2015 Mk3 but that is a hatchback.