nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry you've lost me there, is your Owner's Manual dated 05.2017 or 11.2017, which page number tells you to take it to the Dealer so that I can get a clearer idea of what you mean rather than what I think you mean. You will also need to give more details about your vehicle (manual or auto), I was thinking you wanted to lock the car from inside by pressing the central locking button on the dash.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Glass etching was quite popular a long time ago here the UK, the registration (plate) numbers were put on in earlier times, don't see etching so much now although it is still available. Where a lot of the older (and newer) cars go after being stolen I do not think they would care about matching numbers on anything. If it is not expensive to do then perhaps it might deter some, how many is a different matter you might be better asking vehicle thieves than those selling the service.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As has been plus, what servicing and maintenance work do you have proof has been done? Was the battery checked for state of charge and state of health, is it the original factory battery or has it been changed? Was the alternator also tested? Did the local garage have a scan tool suited to VW systems? When the spark plugs were changed was the air filter also changed? As has been put you could fill with a couple of tankfuls of E5 labelled petrol for the cleaning additive packages and when the engine is fully warmed (check your oil temperature for 90c, ignore water temperature than will show 90 before oil) give the car a good (but sensible) blow out run, lower gears with higher revs over a reasonable distance journey on roads that can also exercise the gears/clutch, steering and brakes, it'll also help you learn the car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If that doesn't work try this from the 2014/5 Owner's Manual. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 2017's too modern for me, what's it say in your Owners Manual? Any setting altered on a menu that excludes the interior button - Safelock.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you sure it's not the hose(s) or hose clips to the matrix. I've no idea about the Felicia matrixes but with the old British cars some might think of the matrix are they were a real pain to get out but checking the hose connections would often save the work as few of those matrix leaked even after after 70 years - just about everything else might leak on those cars though.

@Nirrain I'm all for the slower 2-amp charging and have personally found the higher 10 or 12 amp chargers more likely to kill a battery that is in a very low state. Yeah time is a key ingredient but I do wonder about these less expensive "smart" and multi-stage chargers I don't think they're necessarily smart enough to sort some batteries in certain states out and you have to fool or cheat them (in true VW fashion) often to even start the charging. I see the chargers as more for use of top ups and preventative charging more than reviving batteries that are very low. If you still can(?) on a 2018 what about trying disconnecting the start/stop bit at the negative post and running the car without it. Otherwise as you've put if the car's not used a lot more recharging or trickle charging or disconnect the battery (as long as it does not freeze up). - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/car-battery-conditioners-and-trickle-chargers-everything-you-need-to-know/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think I've probably got you beat on this game of trumps as until last August the previous 30+ years I was using BL 60s/70s cars as dailies whilst also having new and s/h English very low volume made cars and putting up with the UK motor trade so whilst I have been very disappointed by the quality of some of the parts on the car I can't think that generally they're that bad, certainly not as good as as they could or should be but not disastrous. I agree the manual isn't always well written and misses a lot of information I'd expect to see but VW have their own strange ways like with their oil specs and not weights, not listing fuse amperages. You might already know you can download a free pdf copy from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Are you sure there where no loads, computers and other stuff, if so that's around only around 50%-60% charge. I've no idea how accurate those plug-in things are and whether they help much, didn't help my mate when he left his heated front screen on and it drained the battery just as he going into France. With the tyres going down, are the wheels and tyres the original factory issue, tyres sealed to rims, valves not leaking or cracked - you know all the usual stuff, are you bouncing along the kerbs to guide yourself home, playing smack-a-mole with all the potholes. You know how important the battery has been on cars but now they're even more important, more so on a 2018 than a 2015 and even more so on a 2022 than a 2018. The German marques including VW have very complex, invasive, intertwined computer programs, they rely on the battery not being too low. So sort your battery charge and you will lose many of the problems you have. As you probably well remember the heat effects batteries but was shown up more in the UK when the weather got cold in winter but the effects were from the summer heat as with last summer here 40.2c here. If you don't like the start/stop, if it's possible on a 2018, why not just disconnect it from the battery negative connection. - As for the the Front Assist is that you have already turned it of, sorry but you'll just have to RtM. ETA: sorry I forgot the sensor wasn't working. Get the battery FULLY recharged with an appropriate charger better I feel off the car and a 2-amp charge for as long as required to get to proper full, possibly very many hours, then back on the car to cycle it's use as it's designed for and if the car is going to sit up for a long time either disconnect the battery from the car or use an appropriate maintainer mode or charger. Get the battery properly FULLY recharged and see how you go from there, refer to the Owner's Manual for charging and reset requirements if you disconnect the battery. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

@Nirrain as the car is not being driven a lot but could be needed at short notice lets try a different approach, Looking further at the manual for the battery charger you have it is undersized in its capacity, it is not the 2-amp but the 60Ah and 32Ah in "Maintain" mode . How about replacing it with a different charger that is capable of charging a 12v battery above the 70ah you have now and for convenience go to a 4-amp charger and maintainer. From the pdf of the manual for your charger. - How good your battery is now is difficult to know so that makes it more difficult to know how much your problem is related to the battery or the car and in what proportion. I'm not sure about the accuracy of doing your test and if you do the battery is as it is at the moment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Give it a little while and you should get plenty of posts and help there. Strange that the section didn't open for you as it's been fine for me but you're there now. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. On your 2-amp charger once it shows full then does it go into maintenance mode which is only keeping it topped up to that full so the 48 hours does not really matter once you remove the charger as whatever the full is it is not being added to in that 48 hours. If your car is parked up for for 5 days could you remove the battery from the car to fully recharge it on your 2-amp charger in more stable and perhaps warmer conditions in home (I have no idea where you are and how cold it is). Then you can check what full is and how it holds over a period of the next couple of days off the car. Once the charger shows full you can disconnect it and take a reading about 12 hours later after the battery has settled from the recharge and take another reading(s) 12/24 hours after your first reading with the battery rested and off the car. Charging the battery again to full will be good as you have used the car since the previous time so the battery has had the cycles it is designed for and you have discharge so you can top it up. Are you taking the voltage readings from your 2-amp charger as well as your multimeter? Do you have another multimeter to check the readings? Do you have access to a battery tester for state of charge and state of health?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. You would probably be better posting this in the Skoda Fabia Mk II forum you could cut and paste your post but adding engine code might help too, also adding more detail to your name plate on the left, similar to mine as it can sometimes save repeating information. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Ah, yes, I've got another fail, not doing too well. The others system would be more expensive, perhaps something s/h from the leisure side more than car side. Remaining off target, I wonder if intermittent whether it might be water or damp related if the drain is when the car is not used, or chaffed. I remember seeing a video of some electric-tech looking for a drain on a modern VW bug that others could find and he found a few drains but could get below the mA of normally forget about it and had to leave it just above the threshold as he'd already spent so long on it, just shows how much searching these things can sometimes take. I remember yo putting about a single wire from the battery so expect you've remove any other PO stuff already that you've found. Be interesting to know what you find as the source(s), good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Perhaps back on track, have any previous owners taken the car away from how it left the factory, changed or added items. If you're short on time perhaps a battery monitor of another sort might help, something that's reports on the battery consumption when no one is around (like those BM2) in case the drain(s) is something that wakes up when you're not around. Image from John H.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I did, I totally misunderstood I thought it appeared to be missing on the scan tool read out rather than missing totally from the car. 😄 I almost suggested a photo of the battery. Apologies @Tambohamilton. This what happens when an assumption (EFB - start/stop) is make and not checked - made an ass out myself, again. 🙃 Back to what or who stealing the electric then. They're not dead (well the Jag one would be I guess, I was literally walking passed and had the multimeter with me but that's another ballsache VW story best left) other two batteries were just coincidence. One in sick bay now will recover to serve again, if wounded and weakened. The BMW never got near to fully charged but my neighbour was packing everything away, engine running, auto-headlights on and the stereo ready to drive into rush hour traffic. I told him the charge wasn't even equivalent to a Chinese meal and the car would soon want more.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you ruled out the usual causes of condensation, the weather, where the car is parked and it's position, any damp or wet boots and dog blankets in the car, other stuff in the boot? My neighbours has two towel type mats in his boot area, they're great for getting condensation on the inside of the glass. For the last five winters or so I've noticed more condensation with the weather than the previous 35, moss or whatever the green stuff is on the concrete path, earlier starting, in late autumn this year and a different type of moss. We use Pingi dehumidifier bags and moist synthetic chamois (kept in a sealable food bag) along with the air-con and sunvisors to deflected the blown air back to the screen.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 060 vao 1111111112 sounds OK. AGM not so fine as IIRC AGM is AGM Binary(?) for VW who refer to AGM in the 'coding' as "Fleece". The VW car's computer programs for charging and maintenance I guess would be different so you want EFB. EFB is nearer to a standard battery than an AGM is. At the risk of waffling, repeating and taking space with graphics, you'd go through the gate at number 19, as in. - varooom and others could tell you routes and names but the battery monitor is there and it does do stuff for the start/stop, to me there seems to be debate and uncertainty about exactly how much it does. Some disconnect the start/stop at the battery negative connector - yours is still connected? - As for alternator voltage that can depend on a number of things and how it might relating to any 'coding' perhaps but also the car running and battery state and electric consumption, temperatures, etc., the various figures would have my head spinning. Literally waiting on my neighbour's BMW to be collected to get my "smart" Ring charger & maintainer back, the battery originally showed 3.4v on my optimistic multimeter, the "smart" Ring wouldn't start the charging so I had to put my 30+ year old standard charger on to get to an indicated 10.6v on the "smart" Ring charger for it to take over. All is out in the open with bonnet up, easy to the replace the new Ring than the very old standard charger with a very useful needle gauge. At the same time in the shed another neighbour's battery off his "classic" car that he forgot to disconnect, 2.7v originally on the optimistic multimeter, that battery's stewing on my 20+ year old 4-stage 1.8(?) amp charger, that'll take at least 2 days to get the green light. 2009 XJ Jag the other week showed 0.45v (?!), I had to test a new 3v button battery I'd just bought to make sure my optimistic multimeter wasn't effected by the cold or was playing up.

Thanks. I'm very slightly colour blind (or so my wife says), plus of course difference in photos and screens (my neighbour is colour blind and can't see red, and he said he wired his (BL) Mini). So what colour is this then and amperage please?

You're lucky, VW and the other German marques thought it clever to make the computer programs more complex, intertwine and intrusive a few years late and a decade later and more and more (perhaps it helped hide cheats they were proven to have). My wife's 2015 is bad enough but a 2017 would be worse and I've no idea about a 2022. I'd not fancy a car from Covid times and still with chip shortages. My last car was from 1973 so your 2000 is modern to me. 😄

Is your fuse light blue or dark blue?

Very annoying, not as much as wrong/different locations and if you knew the amperage or colour you could also make more sense of it in right or wrong/different locations. IIRC (!! ??) the earlier Owner's Manuals gave more fuse info.

Thanks @varooom, I've stolen a copy of that to try to marry up to my wife's car sometime in the future or no doubt before when the when the need arises.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lesley, sorry I forgot about the error code for the throttle body, as has been put that could just be reporting that's there's a problem rather than the throttle body itself is the problem. Can you remember the error code number? Also some systems are better with and clearing codes than others particularly going back 20+ years, sometimes it takes a few attempts to clear historical codes unless the cause is return of course. You would know better than I if the Dealership scanners go back as far as your car but unless a garage or person specialises perhaps they might not bother with the scanner programs going back that far. My neighbour's general scanner has done a few 2005 cars but only the complex BMW and Merc really gave lots of info and worked well but it is a general world wide program with over 150 makes a few I'd never heard of but ne knew.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. VW don't seem great with fuse locations, or getting the Owner's Manuals to full English. If you wait @varooom will probably be able to give you the correct information, I've some but not checked if it's correct to my wife's 2015 Fabia SE. Whether the following post relates to your car I don't know but it reminded me of fuse location 44, see the last two paragraphs here and photo. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I had an MX-5 (1.6) new at the turn of the last century that had on (steel wheels!!) some great Yokohama tyres good in the wet but too good in the dry for rear wheel drive movement so I swapped them for tyres very good in the wet and not so good in the dry, I'm a lot more cautious in the wet. The tyres supplied holding so well in the dry I think gave some driver's not so used to rear wheel drive who bought and drove the cars in spring, summer and autumn too much confidence so in winter and you'd see MX-5s off lampposts and trees. I'd better stop or I'll get told off for too much thread drift (without involving car drift). 😄