nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Steve, if the charger is old but has a slow charge (setting) and lower amps (rather than fast charge and higher amps) then that's OK you might just have needed to give it longer, you can always give it another go. As you have experienced getting something into the battery is better than nothing and what a can happen with a battery in a low state of charge. For future it might be worth you getting an appropriate charger, Lidl are selling one for £15 or I bought a Ring for £23.49 (other sellers and prices and makes and models available). Personally I'd not go over 4 amps but I have time and patience which I know some lack one or both. Personally I'd want and expect more than 5 years out of a battery but there are many variables ( including German marques like VW practices). Good idea but do bear in mind car 12v batteries are one of the most oversold car parts, on the other hand a battery that has been used, abused and neglected too much and/or too often can only recover so much for so long. As varooom has pointed out it may also be worth getting your alternator tested too, some battery testers can also test alternators too.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To me, it doesn't matter as much what is actually happening as what the VW computer programs believe is happening. I'm all for rebooting the computers and their programs, as far across a yard or field as I can. 😄 I know no more than basics and the fact that computer engineers actually often do resort to resets or "turn off 'n' on agen" so using perhaps VCDS and/or (I favour) quick, free, easy disconnect battery, turn ignition on press and hold brake pedal and turn headlights on, turn all off reconnect battery - but I don't know how that goes on hybrids. Then if you've checked for the (admitted) service recalls and program updates and TSB then wouldn't it likely be wiring, connections, communication fault(s) or unadmitted service recalls and program updates and TSB. I'm annoyed about this on your behalf now. 🤣 Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. By the way I was not suggesting you should ignore all the stuff I listed just to bear in mind how they relate to the issue(s). Car computer programs are very complicated and interconnected so sometimes seem to throw up odd things (I am not suggesting the lambdas with door lock 😄). I have no idea about the wiring diagrams but the Owner's Manuals seem to have confusing and possibly wrong info sometimes and/or possibly variations based on what the model is and perhaps its sales region in the world. Could fuse 31 have been removed by a past seller of the vehicle to hide the shown higher fuel consumption, whether the higher fuel consumption was actual or just shown or to just save finding or sorting any problem if there is one. If you have tested both sensors was that with a multimeter and/or scanner and if they give the expected readings could they be working but be the wrong parts for your particular model or not factory fitted make and part, I have no idea how specific the requirement is on your model. The others here will be able to help you with all this I cannot I was just giving generalities. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I meant the idea of temporarily disconnecting to see if there are differences to help with diagnosis. I reconnected it on my wife's car and just turn it off (deactivate) at the button when wanted.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just in case of 'others' please note my (second) ETA: of - ETA: obviously you'll want to secure the start/stop connector and its lead and protect male and female ends from dirt and debris. - and that I often use incorrect terminology.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd give that VAG specialist a very wide berth if they condemned a new battery, new faulty batteries are very rare unless they have been very badly stored neglected and abused and even then you'd probably be able to fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and have it working well in the short term. As a a time served mechanic you know what utter boll**cks and with what contempt some in the motor trade give and treat their customers. You could check that the new battery has been coded in correctly to "Fleece", Ah entered correctly and a digit change to the battery serial number at least. If you are sure the new battery is coded correctly as you have a machine that gives those lovely graphics you could try disconnecting the start/stop at the battery and see if things improve, some drive for years with it disconnected at the battery and it done no harm when I tried. I have no proof but I would not have any device plugged into the diagnostics port all the time or for too long, and are you sure it's a VCDS that gives those graphic as the ones posted up here that I see are horrible 1990s style computer screen look, seen Torque screen shots posted here that look more like that. To physically disconnect with hand and fingers the start/stop on my wife's 2015 Fabia you just disconnect the wotsit off the battery negative connector, photos below (not from my wife's car so ignore any other minor issues). ETA: obviously you'll want to secure the start/stop connector and its lead and protect male and female ends from dirt and debris. If you want to learn about the battery/alternator charging with (and without) start/stop you can plough through the information from here. - https://procarmanuals.com/ssp/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Generally - do not put all your faith into the computer programs, warning lights and messages of the car or into one diagnostic tool like a scanner/code-reader. The car's programs have parameters which can mean you detect some problems with your human senses before they do, Sensors can wear/age and become inaccurate which will fool the car's computer programs. Then there are electrical and communication issues to consider. As you would with any information you get, cross reference sensor and diagnostic information with other sources of information (tools, your senses, published).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think it possible that the battery that died (or was possibly killed) was an EFB but not necessity the factory original battery and you'd hope for £120 the new battery was an AGM but it could be an EFB - but all is assumption without more detail.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes the falling value of the Little Ingerlund Dollar. The list is also perhaps as useful for including what isn't fitted to the particular car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I missed varoom's post as I was one-finger typing mine - so yes why not get your son to send you a photo for you to post up here for advice - but then sometimes it's worth £40 to save family hassles. 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Get a photo of the new battery fitted as I would take a "wet" battery to also mean an EFB battery too (but not an AGM battery). If it's a like for like battery change then up to you but many wouldn't bother about "coding" the new battery just taking driving the car enough will sort it. If changing type of battery or change in Ah (amp/amperes per hour capacity) then you'd want "recoding". Get a photo as £40 isn't bad if the chap is coming to you but you might get a better offer if you're able to go to him or someone else. Note much of the "coding" details is VW statistics of no importance now.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. VIN decoder that will show factory options Audi VW Seat Skoda - Price: EUR 3.00 (Approximately£2.66) - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 PDF file returned very fast.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Someone on here will probably be able to tell you what all the codes mean or for (IIRC?) 3 euros someone on eBay can give you the factory 'car data' info for your car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I don't know what it was like in 2009 but for much earlier cars the information for something like How Many Left has to be taken with a pinch of salt as the salesman could make mistakes and errors (bad handwriting even) and I expect data input was very boring at the DVLA and mistakes made there too or misinterpretation of what was written (badly or not). Have a look on all your paperwork you might have a unique or rarer model listed than what is correct. 🙃 Only last week on checking the VIN on a mate's 2005 Jag the machine and VIN plate gave one character different, twice, to what the salesman had put in the original paperwork for the car's servicing handbook and other paper.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. (ETA: sorry Steve I forgot to use your name, how rude of me, despite the reminder in your (bit on the left with details in that I've no idea what it's called).) Even if not all or any of the issues are battery related having a battery in good state of charge will help and if it is just the battery then happy days quick easy fix but you will have to keep an eye on your battery's state of charge for a while to ensure you don't get a repeat of the issue. If it is the battery then most lights should go out after fully recharging but those that don't should go out with a bit of driving, those that remain on after this obviously will need investigating. I saw in another thread where warranty work on ABS (IIRC sensor and perhaps tyre pressure) was said to have ben caused by a wheel bearing possibly damaged by potholes. Some VWSkoda Fabia Mk3 suspension parts and wheel bearings do seem to be a lot less sturdy or at least short lived compared to what I'd expect and compared with other marques, hopefully not yours, my wife's car has already had replacement front dampers at 6 years old. Let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hopefully you are able to distinguish two different but related ideas in my previous, my personal troll deliberately does not. At 8/9 years it depends on the hinge wear how much adjusting the hinges helps or just moves the area of misalignment where you have to accept compromises. You might be able to adjust the door this way to your satisfaction so it is worth a try but if the hinges are badly worn then the movement in them remains and you can spend a long time trying to sort it if you want good shut lines only to return to near enough where you started, hopefully not so on your car at 8/9 years but it depends perhaps on the car's previous use and owner(s).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 17.5km is very barely enough or possibly not enough to warm the engine or car and not enough to be fully able to exercise the car. It would be better and expose and tell you more if you could you go on a longer and more interesting route to fully warm the car and get use of the steering, braking, suspension, clutch, gears and electrics. Personally I would record then clear the error codes each time as you are not using the car enough or done the work required perhaps to have cleared up some issues (depending on what they are). Have you tried the battery disconnect and 'reset'. The problem with a car that isn't used regularly is that you could get it fully sorted and loosened up but then by just not using it all the little issues of it not being used creep back in and the cycle starts all over again, I've seen this a lot with "historic" "vintage"/"classic" owners and many of those do not have alarms/immobilisers and computers and modules to add to the issues.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Vehicle prices were high, particularly s/hand (pre-owned / pre-loved) because of the pandemic, chip storage, lack of new cars and the aftermath effects of those. There's a war, energy prices, cost of living, interest rate rises (from record lows). A trade-in value is just one side of a deal in buying a replacement car, increase trade-in offer will mean decrease in money off replacement vehicle and vice-versa the dealer is only interested in the profit and perhaps changing or moving on stock to have less lower profit and more higher profit stock. An ordinary buyer is lucky to get over-valued trade-in and at the same time under-valued replacement vehicle (cake and eat it, twice). Who knows for 2024, perhaps the bubble bursting on EV will mean petrol cars have more value because of this. Unless you're in the trade or at very top-end vehicles swapping every few years is possibly an expensive or very expensive way of purchasing overall. ETA: you need to add monetary inflation, lost interest/investments, running costs of vehicles plus other stuff I can't think of now to AG Falco's figures. Best bet is not to have a car. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lubricate the hinges and latch and it will at least close easier and quicker which might be enough for you to notice it less as you get used to car and discover loads of other things you might need or want to look at or attend to. You could also lubricate the door and hatch seals which will help with opening and closing especially in winter, using (GT85 if you get it there, use it on door hinges and loads more too, or) a silicone spray applied by cloth or silicone oil applied with a 35mm cube of clean old sponge.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. From that the first thing I would do is check the battery's state of charge. Even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the battery can still be too low for the computers and their programs and they will throw up all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages. First thing noticed is often the start/stop becomes in operative, then perhaps power steering light but other miscellaneous lights and warnings can show up. Check out any number of threads on here. Check the battery state of charge at the posts a couple of hours after the car has been parked up. To allow for variations if the reading is say at or below 12.3V then fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger but don't be in a rush with it, avoid fast charging, it could take overnight and more ,see the details in your Owner's Manual. If you haven't got the time or patience first time to fully recharge the battery then repeat the recharges until the battery is fully recharged. At the worst doing this will cost very little mains electricity, take a small amount of effort and a bit of time and having the battery in a good state of charge will help with problem solving and diagnosis whereas in a low state of charge it could hinder or cause issues. Just driving the car often is not good enough to recharge the battery fully or enough. Link for pdf copy of Owner's Manual in case you don't have your paper printed copy. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC (and I don't always) someone else just removed the fuse for the alarm and then removed the unit but this might have been on a Mk1 car, unit was engine side of scuttle and the chap only had third party insurance.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Your main problem seems to be the people you bought the car from, very rare to get a faulty battery, yes it can be made bad by poor storage and garage/driver's use, abuse and neglect - or a faulty charging system. If it's an intermittent fault they're more difficult to track down but you've already done some spade work for them and battery charging systems and their faults are not new to cars and generally not marque and model specific. You've had two good suggestions already, I'd add test perhaps doing volts tests as well as or instead of resistance but 200 is clearly enough to show up at the start. You want all electrical connections to be clean, secure and protected (I use Contralube 770 for inside the connections, others are available). I would recommend even though the battery is quite new that you check its resting state of charge at the terminals a couple of hours after the car has been parked up and consider fully recharging it with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer as a low battery on a 2014 VW, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, can cause all sorts of unexpected problems which you won't want adding to or mixing in with your current (no pun intended) issues.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. At least you found the clunk (we have not) and seem to have a lot more room than when I done my neighbours droplinks. After the next drive I would suggest you check the torque tightness of the new nuts, you look like you have the room(?) to do so with the car sitting on its four wheels and tyres. Do a search on air-con flap depending on your type of air-con and model their might be several ways for a simple reset and if you change the cabin filter you can check there's not lots of debris in that area (and inlet?) of of the system at least. Using the car only occasionally will introduce possibly more problems than if it has more regular use, certainly if the regular use was over reasonable distances. Me personally I would disconnect the battery, switch the ignition on and press hard and hold the brake pedal down so that the brake lights would be on if the battery was not disconnected, if you want also turn the headlights, or blower on full, whatever takes your fancy for however long you like as long as it's for a good few seconds at least. Remember to turn everything off again immediately so you do not forget for when you reconnect the battery. This is easy, no cost, relatively clean hands and comfort to do, the only sort of car work I dislike the least. The idea is to get whatever will to reset, even if I had a scan tool I would do this as the computer "repair" "reset". If it does nothing (or seems to do nothing) it has took next to nothing or lost nothing to do. Check your Owner's Manual for things that might need resetting/synchronising after a battery disconnect. I like a clear base to start from, like clearing error codes from previous owners. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That motor industry thinking that it must be more complex and expensive. If changes had been considered a long time back then the solution might have been more high, or perhaps more low tech, and it might have been way more developed by now or it might not have needed to be developed. You've hit the nail on the head - consumables - the whole point of the motor trade, perhaps you could use something less consumable and yes have consumables means the opportunity of more labour charges, win, win, win for (the motor) trade. For the record I go with changes every two years, this might be too late or according to some way, way, to soon. I've used two different testers that two different people own in one reservoir just to see and they gave different results of lights/percentages, both had the fluid as OK to use but one less so than the other, which to believe, if either (no I didn't test the testers). 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. For many the cost of the small bottle of fluid could be multiple(s) the cost of the tester so depending on how often you use the tester you could replace it - but then you still have to test it for accuracy before first use. 😁 Depends where you buy from how expense or cheap the stuff is and as I put before - Amsoil have - "In ideal conditions, an unopened bottle of brake fluid lasts about two years. It’s best to use a new bottle of brake fluid every time." All ways about this are imperfect, you just pick the one you prefer.