nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. First thing I'd do is check the state of charge on the battery and unless it was near enough full I would fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger at as long, low and slow recharge as possible which may take many hours particularly if it is very cold where you are. You could be chasing error codes, and more of them, that might not be there with a charged battery. For the vent flap you could do a reset on with your scan tool perhaps(?) - or disconnect the battery - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the ignition on and press and hold the brake pedal down hard for a number of seconds and switch on the headlights and whatever you feel - none will work as the battery is disconnected but do not forget to turn everything off again, this might squeeze some of the computers to a part reset and if it doesn't it was free, easy and quick to try and you didn't get your hands (too) dirty nd sitting in relative protection of the cabin. Remember the scan tool is a diagnostic tool and not a magic pointer to what sensors to change (though it can be sometimes). Then do you know for certain of any service history and recent servicing, maintenance and repairs, if you do any then check it has really been done and properly and for the whole car not just the engine. An 8 or 10 minute drive is not great for any car, look at the oil temperature if available rather than coolant temperature gauge, you want the oil at 90+c. After making sure the brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres) are reasonably functioning, the important electrics are next (they need the battery in a good state of charge too) lights, wipers, blower, horn, etc.. On to simple stuff like changing the air filter (and cabin filter) if required. Things like changing the spark plugs I would leave until better weather unless you want to do it or they play up, then I would look cleaning the throttle at the same time and the MAF if not already done with the air filter. Engine oil & filter change would definitely wait until warmer weather for me and I would also consider a change of coolant and gearbox oil (depending on box). Other jobs and problems might present that take priority with use but often more regular use over reasonable distance journeys will help the car to run better - and possibly highlight next priority jobs or what can be lived or put up with until better weather. Do all your servicing, maintenance and repairs as much as possible in the better weather so the car runs well in the bad weather and you have little to do on it, prevention is better than cure. Good luck.

Dangerous! 😄 My thoughts, I don't know the Mk1 (or any really) but generally with rust things usually seem to expand and get tighter, as you bought a set of new genuine black plastic wheel nut covers then they should have been tight if anything going on first time, could they be stretched now because of this when removing and putting back on. Or are you sure you have the original or correct wheel nuts (bolts?) fitted to the wheels as the plastic covers usually seem to vacuum on and need the removal tool (or damaging pliers) to remove them in my experience.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you have access to a bi-directional scan tool, you could then plug in to test items and look at diagnostics.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry it wasn't really help, I'd be slightly more at home with the A40, but thread activity might attract those that know. Not so many venture out to the newer Fabia models. Zooming in on your photo image shows the 20 amp fuse would be above the marker for F7 (if it wasn't missing) I'd never see that when looking in the car, shows some technology can be very useful. It'd make it easier for me if all the fuses in the cars were facing the same direction, trying to remember the colours is too much for me, I wonder if the other VAG marques have them random pattern too. 🙂 I was just wondering about the 15 amp fuse at F44 (Cigarette lighter, 12-volt power socket) being different to 15 amp fuses at F27 and F49 and if it left the factory like that and if it has any relationship to the hole and missing marker and horn fuse F7 being directly above both - or just coincidence, previous owner or electrical items added or changed(?).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you young by any chance, if so look at the warning lights on the dash as they come on to test with ignition for too brief for old eyes and brain time and see if there is the symbol that lights up to test for windscreen washer fluid level. How much are you using? Perhaps the use of Rain-X or equivalent on the windscreen (and rear screen if required) and Rain-X silicone wipers might help. Unless you're emptying the washer bottle power-washing the headlights in which case you could perhaps manually clean them occasionally before or after a journey if required, or even mid-journey if it is a really long run. Good luck, let us know the outcome. 👍

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah that's not bad, I think the couple of times they were checked on my wife's car they were a bit more than that but not 10% as that would be more easily noticeable and memorable. I wonder if they get more accurate as less accurate as the car's systems ages. Just that some people seem to believe anything they see on a computer must be accurate, or the truth, but like much if you take it as a 'gauge' rather than these systems are always-spot-on' then as put it's near enough.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. How much do you use, are you sure it isn't slowly leaking out, why not make up a flexible dipstick to check the level and see how quickly it drops. Or you will just have to top it up a lot more regularly. Note, it is not normally a good idea to wait for any warning or rely on these warning as often they appear too late or could misfunction be proactive instead prevention is better than cure. If you find you do have a warning light then it might be malfunctioning.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That's funny as I was originally thinking of U-bolts, but going the other way round as I didn't know the room or shape of crossmember, yours solves that, I then thought of sandwich plates and changed my mind. Even thought it's proven to work the bent circular clamps is an ugly quick solution to me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Assuming the handbook lists the correct fuse location (it didn't for wipers on my wife's car) the clicking might be a relay(?), did you check the fuse visually or by testing or swapping out with a known good 20 amp fuse, as I once had an intermittent fuse I do double or triple checks. You could try pressing the horn button locations harder repeatedly to see if that does anything like friction clean the connections there, I've no idea where the actual horn(s) are on the car and if you could do a test straight off a 12v battery test same as you could on the A40. I'm not sure these electrics will be around and working 5 or 6 decades later like some of the Lucas stuff. Hopefully someone will be along with a wiring diagram to confirm fuse number and give info on feed run.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You might want to do the odd spot check from first click refills to see how accurate the car's fuel consumption figures might be. With my wife's car it's a bit optimistic on the few times we've compared but I've seen some others put up figures that seem very optimistic to me. It's always been that some people have some very loose (to illogical) ideas of how to calculate fuel consumption. If you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners. The only other thing I know is that you want to prevent the car's battery state of charge from getting low otherwise you can get all sorts of unexpected issues from the computer programs even if the car still starts and the lights seem bright enough and even if you don't get warning messages or lights. Some short video of useful stuff you might already know but I admit I'd forgotten about a couple of them. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. I find lots of different noises from the engine bay on different days and different times, I think it's the various computer programs during their thing for the various circumstances, weather, engine warm/hot/cold, what electric is on. Check your battery's state of charge, about two hours after after the car has been parked up, and see what it is. If 12.3v or below fully recharge using an appropriate battery changer/maintainer (just driving around often isn't enough). Try for a full recharge done as long, low and slow as possibly which might take an evening and overnight (or more). Just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and you have no warning messages or symbols doesn't mean that your battery is not in a lower state of charge. Alternator and battery are related of course, low battery and the alternator is working more. If your car has had the full servicing schedule done (at least) for a 6/7 year old car then you have some reassurance, if not then it just might need servicing (properly). You could plug in a scan tool to see if any error codes are present (you can get a few just from battery being in a low state of charge). Let us know how you get on.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at the Owner's Manual for the car, on my wife's 2015 it's press the 'CAR' button at side of screen, then 'Selection' virtual button on screen to 'Driving data' and arrows to find 'Long term' driving data, after that I forget as I never use the information as it's too much of a guesstimate for me. Once you've discovered it's level of accuracy it might be useful as a loose comparison. As I'm old I just use the old fill to first click of pump, at the next refill fill to first click and note litres, divide by 4.546 for gallons, then divide gallons into distance for mpg. https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If it is a site issue Freedom membership might resolve that. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/subscriptions/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 9 Euros seems very high, some places here sell it at £5, or even £6, a can but I have bought it for £2 a can or three cans for £10. PTFE and Teflon are the same thing, Teflon is the trademarked name for PTFE. - https://www.nes-ips.com/teflon-vs-ptfe/ GT85 (history) is owned and marketed by the WD-40 Company (brands), GT85 was started as a British company in the mid-80s but like so much was swallowed up by an American corporation, I have no idea if the WD-40 PTFE spray is exactly the same as the GT85 spray but as I used to successfully use GT85 on my pushbikes in the 1980s I returned to it when it returned to the shop shelves. Rather than having one can of WD-40 Multi-Use that does not do the jobs as well or several can of specialist sprays I use GT85. I am also using up gravity and spray can of PlusGas (penetrating/releasing agent) as I bought them before the GT85, PlusGas (history) again used to be a British company but is no more I am not sure if it is now effective as it used to be, but it might be, I have no old cans to compare and anyway GT85 does more jobs and smells nice.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You might very well think that; but I couldn't possibly comment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Saw a modern MX-5 being driven Wednesday very late afternoon - and with the roof down! mind he was only in his mid-40s of age.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I didn't actually put that, it was part of the quote from lol-lol but as a total generalisation I do find the sort of people that own large models of those marques often tend to be less than the best of drivers and often arrogant but then all the other marques in that video had drivers that weren't the best drivers and some of them seemed to display arrogance perhaps. Course you can't put anything about the Aldi drivers as it might upset some VAG owners here. 😁 😉

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Where you would use the silicone spray and instead of WD-40 - sorry I've no idea what mechanism is used behind the heater control knob but you can spray GT85 to lubricate plastic against plastic or on cables (for electrics), etc.. Obviously you must first find out what is causing the knob to be difficult to operate otherwise just lubricating things may cause something to slip, jam or break. Do you not have a parts catalogue diagram and/or list of heater / heater control parts to give you some idea?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. They move among us. Some add a layer of stupidity to their mistake flustered after the event but others start with a thick layer of stupidity and perhaps arrogance. The bloke in the very old car paid for showing off as that should have made it across as far as I could make out. I preferred the (showing off) of the Landies. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wetdTsck_vo

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Or GT85 as it's more versatile for other uses on car and home. - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It's been charged up (not sure if fully) now and IIRC refitted to vehicle. I've seen where others have put some chargers won't bother with below 6v others below 3v, there are ways around this and use of other chargers, C-Tec being one manufacturer, they always seem a bit expensive to me but if with a lot of use they still last decades then they may still be good value. I've found some chargers don't like it when the weather is very cold or very hot which is why I bought the Ring RSC804 as it claims to operate down to -20c and up to 40c.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Coming from "classic" cars where some owners carry spares of all sorts just because they or someone they've read about once had an old part fail (or now new ****-poorly made cheap new part) they carry so many spares just in case. Some really need to tow a trailer for all they think they might need, mainly because they don't drive the car often enough to get it reliable or to know how to properly drive it. I believe in prevention over cure, I've had enough breakdowns and minor roadside repairs to last me three lifetimes. Running out of battery power is like running out of fuel it's avoidable - though I've run out of petrol a few times, but not since my wife refused to ever push a car again, despite me doing the steering! It may distress you as it did them when I put I'd not carried a spare wheel (jack, brace and kit) in many of my cars for decades, just a manual foot pump and reliable pressure gauge. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Bit of a tangent but as my interest is more in over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" I used to follow this American chap's YT channel as he liked small British and other cars, and different vehicles, to actually drive and not as show queens, though how he ever gets time to drive, and sometimes race, all in his collection is beyond me. Installing Ultra-capacitor and Onboard Battery Charger in Sunbeam Tiger (British two-seater with Ford V8 engines put in by manufacturer) -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As with many parts and components just because they work and look OK doesn't mean that they're not well passed their optimum and well into not working as well as they could or should, putting more effort on other parts and components so additional load and wear on those or just lack of possible available performance - car doesn't go as well as it could or should. To many this doesn't matter and it's a matter of what is reasonable expected performance to balance with the type of vehicle and its use and cost benefits and balances to most people. Just a note, the precious metal(?) iridium and wotsit plugs (having trouble with my worms today) you're supposed to check the gaps with the round wire type feeler gauges rather than the traditional blade type. Obvious not so important on old plugs removed and not being used again.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you actually inspected and driven a 2017 Fabia 1.4 TDI 75 S Estate to see if it's the car for you and to see how much it varies from your 2006 1.9 TDI Estate? ETA: Also consider the DPF now, the type of driving and your driving style. "BCA Marketplace, formerly British Car Auctions, is a used vehicle marketplace. It was listed on the London Stock Exchange until it was acquired by TDR Capital in November 2019." - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BCA_Marketplace