nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you get it back and the power steering light remains off provided it illuminates at turning ignition on to show the warning system is working and the steering operates and feels fine then the power steering is operating. From the 05.11 Owner's Manual.- Even though you have a new battery if the car has electrical problems especially with charging and you have been using the car then ask the garage to test the battery and make sure it's still in a good state of charge, as above if the battery is too low you will have problems with the power steering and other issues, possibly before you get any warning lights (as I probably put before).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I note from the Manual for the charger that it is designed for up to 60Ah, your battery is rated at 69Ah so using the formula in the manual if the battery is fully discharged it will take 34.5 hours (at 2-amps) to get it to 80% charge (about 12.4-12.5v). In maintenance mode at a maximum of 1-amp the time doubles. These times will be increased if the battery is connected to the car and has a constant drain on it. The charger does not seem to have a recondition mode so once you have the battery as fully charged as you can from the charger it would possibly help to use the car to cycle the battery's discharge and charge, from the alternator, as the battery is designed for. Use the least consumers and battery consumption as you can until you put the battery on the charger again, to fully recharge the battery again to hopefully have regained as much of the battery capacity as you can. If required you could repeat use of the battery on the car and then another full recharge using the battery charger. The maintenance mode is really for when the car is not used for long periods, as noted in the car's Owner's Manual but the battery is designed for cycling so should have some discharge. Winter mode is for when the ambient temperature is below (+)5c, if the temperature was above 5c last time of charging I would not worry about it given the state of your battery. Manual.pdf My terminology will not be correct - but - the idea is just to fully deplete the electrics so that you get a reset of the computers, to have a clean start when you reconnect the charged battery, it might not do much, or nothing, but as I put before when the battery gets in a low state of charge it can cause all sorts of unexpected computer or program issues so best to have them cleared if possible and speed up getting back to normal operation. Thanks. Now if you add that to the information with your site name it will show at each post you make (when viewed on an appropriate device(?)) as example. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good for reading the Owner's Manual but best done when you first get the car or better still before buying the car as they're available on line. I'm not immune I sometimes forget and think I know and then have to go back and refer to it when I find I don't fully know or have forgotten something. The VW system is very complex, over complex but I won't rant on about the falseness of it all, see here for 2009 thinking. - https://procarmanuals.com/self-study-program-426-start-stop-system-2009-design-function/ See my previous post.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Nirrain, it'd help if you added your car details and if you want location to the wotits that are at the left side of the posts. 2018 Octavia Mk3 - what engine, gearbox, trim level. Also if you could put a link up to the 2-amp charger or its make and model. You are doing the right thing by having a low amperage but you're not applying it at the right time and possibly not correctly. I suggest for now you read the Owner's Manual about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and possible resets on the car and you disconnect the battery, and leave it on charge again until full. For the sake of the little effort and time required whilst the battery is disconnected - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the ignition on, press and hold the brake pedal down so that if the battery was connected the brake lights would be on, turn the headlights on, after about 20 seconds, turn headlights and ignition off. This might reset some of the many computers that might have been upset or just a refresh of 'turning it off 'n' on agen'.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As I often put here, just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it doesn't mean the battery has enough charge to keep the VW computer programs happy and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before giving warning warning lights and messages. Reading the Owner's Manual and referring to it when required will mean that you will know about your car more than many long term owners, in it is a section on the battery and checking it, personally I'd not put all my faith in the battery indicator but it's better than nothing and reading the section will tell you the procedure required to test it correctly. You were right the battery had been damaged but you might have been able to recover it for more life out of it with a suitable charger. This gives you some detail and some idea of some of what's available. - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/car-battery-conditioners-and-trickle-chargers-everything-you-need-to-know/ A general note just driving the vehicle is often not not enough to help with charging the battery and might even deplete it more. The 2-amp charger only taking a hour does tell you there's a problem. There are possibly ways around this depending on what charger this is and what else is available. See RAC link for 7.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great, well done. For no good reason I later thought it might stretch to 24 hours, don't let it get that low again as that has put a bit of a dent in it that will stay but now you're aware of the situation so can keep on top of it more. Let us know how the car is after a couple of drives. Yeah I was giving the answer, as I often do, as a generality so that when you deal with another vehicle battery charging you don't only think of it in the term of this battery in this car. I'm so used to sealed batteries until I was reminded I forgot to check the electrolyte level on an old battery, one cell was 'dry' so I wasn't too surprised when it became my second failure to resuscitate. As you have a Yuasa battery if you want to here's their generally H&S. - https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/health-safety/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Those really, the heat perhaps to the charger and battery, gassing from battery, sparks. Have a look at this guide, though there seems to be some debate about some pulsing. - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/car-battery-conditioners-and-trickle-chargers-everything-you-need-to-know/ As with lots of things - and I'm not referring to any safety matters now - there's a lot of information, advice, opinions and 'rules' some of which cannot be broken, others that might be able to be bent, some more than others. Any company offering public advise will obviously have to allow for all readers with what they put. Some will have a commercial concern to the subject so might have more of a slant to a certain direction. Is it done yet? 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That might have been the reading after you'd selected the mode. Yes fair enough, a little extra to save hassle and waiting, £30 eBay, often a day or two for delivery but not promised or guaranteed, worth looking at when not so much of a distress purchase item. Listen if you've been sensible and I know of someone who used to do such more than once without incidence. Car wise, you did follow the 'Owner's Manual' and Ring 'User Manual' and connect the charger negative to the car's body negative point. I'm still hoping less than 28 hours for 'FUL' and for something perhaps after your first drive or two. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Not engine coolant temperature or heater matrix but if you mean heater fan blower speed varies then it could be your car battery is low in charge, this would also have some effect on your AC operation. If you mean the coolant temperature gauge needle get to 90 then drops that's a different matter. A good run out will help the car generally if/when the oil temp gets to 90c-95c and the coolant temp needle is steady on 90 and the car feels good then give the car a bit of a blow out, hold the gears and revs up get the air into the engine and out of the exhaust (along with the cobwebs) don't worry about mpg. Let us know how you get on regardless and any solution you find. Cheer.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To me this sounds like something is wrong, as with the OP here and another thread. I'll give more details later if wanted but to me it sounds like the initial battery swap and or charging by car and/or battery charger. I've got to go now but if you want to leave more details.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi. welcome. Yeah it's like other "smart" devices they're not really that smart so sometimes you have to fool them into being smarter that's why diligent use of my old chargers often gets better results on batteries that are in not such a good state (of charge and health). It also depends on what the smart battery charger is designed to do. For readings different electronic devices will give you different readings and in different circumstances so always best to check them with another device. Sometimes though through use, abuse or neglect (or accident) the battery or one of it's cells can be had it or too far gone and so the battery wouldn't be reliable or last long with use in a car. Another reason not to fully trust the 'magic eye' or VW battery colours in the battery, my neighbour's battery that I've had to recharge for a few years now has the green 'magic eye', one time it disappeared after I fully recharged the battery to only return after I fully recharged it the next time. Because of the extreme hot weather we had last summer I expected to see even more reports than usual of battery "failures" this winter and this higher number will I think continue into spring and next summer because battery care got forgotten and steadily the complexity of the battery use has increased.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The 2025 is 20mm diameter and 2.5mm deep (2032 is 20mm x 3.2mm). The figures you get for a 3v button battery (or 12v car battery) depends on the instrument you are using to measure them you can get a lot of varying figures and very cheap multimeters I've found not to be too good or last reliably beyond the 12 month warranty. My multimeter reads optimistically but I think yours might be even more so. Also battery doesn't work as well when its cold or very cold. The battery to my wife's remote was fine used at home but next day at her work when it was colder the battery wasn't and using the keyblade opens the driver's door but the alarm goes off, very annoying.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It is now but that's due to circumstances I'd not let that put you off considering again as it's own replacement if you wanted.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes I think it might be best for you and I'd suggest you perhaps also considered a new 4-amp smart charger for the new replacement battery. The AGMs do run at lower voltage more happily and will show lower figures on the VW start/stop cars in normally use. I was going to put you'd need to ask Yuasa if the 4-amp charging they recommend was for bench charging of retailers stock or for end retail customers during the battery's life. Your present battery might be able to be revived for other than use on your car - or about £8 recycle value at least. Also I've no idea what electric a GPS watch uses but any low use if constant adds up, it's like items on standby in the home or a small water leak in home they turn the meter very slightly but constantly so add to your bill at the end of the month, quarter or year. When you get the new battery check what charge is in it and consider topping it up before fitting if you want a fixed starting point. Good luck let us know how you get on, don't forget to 'code' the new battery and clear any error codes to start fresh at that point.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC earlier MX-5 models did have a working oil pressure gauge but I'm not sure about the coolant gauge, at the least it's like the coolant gauges in our car and biased to the needle at 90. Gauges that gave true real time readings would probably worry drivers now as they did in the past with first the numbers being left off the gauge then the general markings. Given the lack of accuracy and very low figures for some cars it was best some drivers didn't know as they'd just worry plus other examples of the same model year and engine may well show different figures so that would worry some. Our cars could do with a gauge for the (12v) battery but only those with EVs would perhaps fully follow what the reading told them at that particular time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That doesn't sound right to me, 15 mins stop-start driving not getting above 40mph I'd expect to see more than 72c on the oil temperature of my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI (90), different cars and driving of course but given the heater running cool and even the biased coolant needle not being at 90 the first thought would be that perhaps the thermostat isn't closing or fully closing. Never rely just on error codes and as you've found no errors codes doesn't mean there everything is running as it should.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great stuff. Did you notice what volts showed before you selected with the mode button? I'll just put you're not suppose to have it in the engine bay with bonnet closed before someone else does. With the extension cable a plastic bag might cause condensation a medium sized plastic box with holes in the sides for the cables might be better. The extension plug could have a 3-amp fuse in it and plugged into a suitably protected socket for outside use. If for some reason it doesn't get to 'FUL' in that 28 hours or whatever time then charge again ASAP to get the battery fully charged. Once you have got the battery fully charged dependant on how the battery has previously been affected and your car and battery use you shouldn't need to recharge the battery too regularly but better to recharge it a bit sooner than late say at 12.3v. I'm not a fan of Amazon and I've never found them to be the lowest price when I've looked but better to have the charger than not. Hopefully your battery will be on 'FUL' well before the 28 hours then you can fully use your car. The battery is designed to be used with the car discharging and charging it so you don't need to leave a charger on it after it's fully charged. All the best.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you lived nearer we could put on my neighbour's spare/second old diesel van battery, that I brought back to use and we've been charging and alternating use with the newer battery he bought to replace it since before Covid IIRC, on his barely used van. Then we could test your car's alternator function with his Ring tester, not reconnect the battery monitoring start/stop as your losing nothing, you code in for standard battery and I'd see what I can recover on your Yuasa YBX9096 given time. The Yuasa should be a good battery so if it's only a couple of years old it might be able to get more proper use out of it for a while, if not we'd discover with charging and testing. Yuasa's website downloadable for the YBX9096 shows "Recommended Charge Rate 4A", I'd forgotten this but it is only a recommended. - https://www.yuasa.co.uk/batteries/automotive/ybx9000-agm-batteries/ybx9096.html YBX9096_DATASHEET.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. How long was the charger on the car to get from the 12.3 start to 12.6 finish and what signified the finish and wahat was used to give the figures? On a side note do you have anything plugged into the 12v socket?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lesley, thanks for reply. Even if it does nothing with the throttle body it wont do any harm and might help with other unknown issues or what is causing the rough running if it's not the throttle body by the 'turn it off 'n' on agen' reset. These reboots can sometimes be handy in themselves, personally I'd boot the computers and their programs as far as I could, yours at 1995 is a lot less VW over complicated than my wife's 2015 Fabia you can be grateful for that. Do bear in mind error codes can report the messenger rather than the actual problem or that sensor might be only part of the problem, less so in 1995 than 2015 perhaps. I'm a big fan of cleaning the throttle body and things like, perhaps later, MAP and MAF as much servicing, maintenance and repairs boils down to simply cleaning and lubricating, even clearing error codes is a type of cleaning exercise. For the engine service hopefully as well as the oil & filter change the air filter was looked at or replaced and if the spark plugs weren't checked or replaced than would be the next place I'd look. If if they looked OK with a magnifying glass and were gapped correctly if they've not be changed in a few years I'd replace them. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @RIncewindwiz I might as well put it, as you've got a VCDS this is what I suggest, check your (Owner's Manual) "Operating Instructions" for what might need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car's battery (often it's not as listed if you've closed the electric windows and roof, just the time of day clock) and disconnect the battery from the car and fully recharge it with a 4-amp or lower appropriate charger and maintainer. Personally this time of year I'd remove the battery from the car and charge it in the spare room for higher and more consistent ambient temperature and more convenient to monitor progress. On reconnecting the battery you can 'recode' as if replaced and remove any error codes that might be in the systems. ETA: I'd then keep an eye on the battery and do preventative recharges, as required, with the battery connected to the car. As routine I'd check and charge at the time when winter tyres would be fitted and then again when they would be removed and a third time after very hot temperatures of the summer. This is the 4-amp charger and maintainer I bought last month, there are other makes and suppliers available, just an example, I got it for £23.49 off eBay, other suppliers and prices available of course. The one I have, Ring RSC 804 - 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804 There's also a 6A version - Ring RSC 806 - 6A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC806 RSC804_RSC806_RSC808_Instructions (1).pdf RSC804_Spec (1).pdf RSC806_Spec.pdf

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you sure the problem is with the throttle body? Did the mechanic disconnect the wires connector before cleaning or removed the throttle body from the car? I don't know the Felicia but IIRC 1995 wouldn't be OBD2 so the OBD(1) type software will be less available. Try this, check what, if anything, needs resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery in the Owner's Manual. Then disconnect the car battery, with it disconnected - [ETA: - carefully bridge/join the positive and negative battery leads post clamps together to complete a circuit ] - turn the ignition on and press and hold the brake pedal down so that if the battery was connected the rear brake lights would be on, turn on the headlights too, do this for about 20 seconds, switch off headlights and ignition switch and take your foot off the brake pedal. Whilst the battery is off you might want to take the opportunity to fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger. Then reconnect the battery. Then try driving as normal for a few days and see how that goes and let us know here.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Have a look at what information is in the car's Owner's Manual about the button and related locking. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models For the VCDS, I don't know the system at all but thought I'd seen that it keeps a log of amendments/adjustments/adaptations so you can go back to them(?) - but - there's a section on this site for VCDS so you might be better asking about that there for those that do know the VCDS. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I was told about the following site a few weeks ago, I've not looked at it too much as all the adverts annoy me but I did read on site or download (I forget) a couple of articles that seemed useful. - https://batteryuniversity.com/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks, I saw ones like that but a different model number. My only thought is it seems to sell in USA particularly at very low prices and being made in China, as are the more expensive chargers, I wonder about the lack of quality control from manufacturer which means tens, hundreds of thousands are probably good but some are not. Recently a set of 5 "classic" car and bike owners bought a £15 charger from Lidl one was faulty out of the box. Your charger might be fine but you could check it in use. As you probably know the variances in the different instruments doesn't matter as long as they remain consistent. You probably also know you should test the testing equipment before each test or set of test to confirm the testing equipment remains within tolerance and often this includes the tester (especially if it's me). Often just driving the car isn't enough to sufficient recharge the battery enough especially if the battery charge has been taken too low before the drive, potentially the drive could deplete the battery even more it depends on the outgoings and any income. Taking into account what varooom has put I say you should check the battery at the terminals after 12 or more hours after recharging or a couple of hours later but turn the headlights on for 30 seconds to drop the surface charge. Again the system you use is less important than being consistent with it, if the battery was off the car it'd be easier but after charging a reading at 12 and 24 hours later would let you know how much of the charge the battery has held. As you'll find there are a few factors involved with the figures so you do get different tables with slightly different figures but generally it's easy to see when things are good and when not. The thing is it depends when the 1.8A was (and how accurate that display reading is) but yes according to VW a 70Ah battery wants a 7A or lower charger but don't get too hung up with having 8A. My experience is that a lower slower longer recharge gets into the battery better and lasts longer and as far as I can see this is backed up with what I've read more recently. The thing is many people now don't have much stocks of time and patience so think higher, quicker, faster is better when often it isn't. For many years now I've been using a about 1.2A smart charger and maintainer for batteries in a low state of charge and well down on state of health and that with a large battery disconnected from the car could take up (sixty) 60 hours to fully recharge the battery. Usually it'd take less than two days but there's not so many people willing to allow that long to retrieve the battery. I've had two failures, I notice the latest version of the charger has that it can work on a 12v battery when it's as low as 3v many modern chargers used to give up at less than 6v.