nta16

Zoom in on the skoda-parts photos and you can see the alternative brand names on the part (febi, topran (not on China one). https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-germany-9741.html https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6u0919501b-dual-temperature-sensor-hella-41935.html https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/all/all/na/keywords.xhtml?result=1768067090118 https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/UNIVERSAL/all/na/2/6PT%20009%20107-421/comparisonList.xhtml https://cat.hella.com/opencat/opencat/en_MT/all/2/6PT%20009%20107-421/datasheet.xhtml

I don't know you'd have to ask the others, I could make a guess but you don't want guesses. Remember what I put about information and databases, this applies to parts and compatibility lists particularly for old cars where part numbers have been superseded. And don't assume any photo might be the actual part, for all I know you might get a photo with a yellow ring but it's also to represent a blue ring too - ask the gentlemen. Plus I look at things from a UK perspective, you being in Czech Republic might have more local suppliers and those posters living nearer might know of more local manufacturers or the more local factories that make the parts that go into different brand boxes and bags. Personally I also like some Beru bits but not a fan of Tosch generally, but for all I know the some of same parts might go into Beru and Tosch bags and boxes. Well done on finding that manual. When the car is set up correctly and running correctly then following it is the thing to do, as you (hopefully would have 20-30+ years ago. Somethings will have improved or changed in the intervening years, oils improved, petrols changed so you need to make allowances for that plus the Owner's Manual refers to a standard factory car at a reasonable age and not with 20-30 years of age and use, and possibly including some abuse and neglect. There's more useful information in the 'Owner's Manual' back then than VWŠkoda allows for later years. Whilst the car's not running fully check the 12v battery and connections and fully recharge the battery to 100% of it capacity, even if the sensor solves your starting issue you still want the battery in good state of charge and health particularly on a car new to you and you relearning about old cars. (I had to help push a 2003 car today, the owner used to work on car alternators but had left the car standing so long for the "new" battery to go flat, professionals and ex-professionals tend to be worse for this sort of thing, above 0c here too.)

Check you have the correct colour plastic ring on it (yellow? blue? ?green? I've no idea ) and then I'd go for someone like Hella and hope it might be made in Germany or at least quality controlled by Hella if made in China. If there were any actually made in Japan that'd always be my preference.

Usually loads of info on things like this in the Fabia Mk3 forum or other forums on Briskoda as now basically for many owners cars are more infotainment on wheels (later also battery storage on wheels). pab567 might know about stuff like this, you could give him a shout and ask. If the problem didn't exist before the update do you have a back up of the previous program to go back to to check if is present on that or not. Or you could try reloading this glorious update. HTH.

LPS used to be great but no longer available AFAIK. I'd look for a dry chain lubricant as used by cyclist and motorcyclists. GT85 is a good longer lasting lubricant (and penetrating/releasing fluid) in most uses but you might need a heavier duty lubricant or need to apply GT85 a bit more often. - https://gt85.co.uk/ Lanoguard is said to be a good, long-lasting anti-corrosion lubricant and waterproofing spray a mate of mine swears by it but I've never used it so have no idea how good it would be on moving cable and joints. - https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/ HTH.

You have a 2022 care VW added extra gates to lock out scan tools around 2020, SFD does Carcanner ELM cope with this. It is usually driving the car a distance or a number of cycles or uses where the computer programs decide it no longer needs to post messages and signs of doom. Is your car one that gets over the air updates and one got one by coincidence. Hopefully you have sorted things just be happy the computer is happy at the moment. 🙂

You already know. Best you put what you do for storage preparation, allowing perhaps for difference in weather conditions, you have current knowledge. To me two weeks would seem too long not to use a car but I suppose if you're lucky enough to afford or are away for longer then I'd consider someone else driving the car or perhaps doing the storage requirements dependant on how long the car is to sit unused. Cars are to be driven as far as I'm concerned, what anyone else does with them is their business. I've seen enough owners with cars they don't want to drive (or too many to drive) or to drive them as designed when they do actually drive them, or not know how to drive them because they don't drive them enough.

If the car has been sitting around for a while and/or is infrequently used over reasonable distance drives then it will have some issues from this alone, cars were designed to be used. If they are to be show cars or very little use and stored away then they need to be in a certain condition before you can do this and during storage, or lack of use, for extended periods then this needs to be done correctly otherwise the lack of use issues will be there on next uses.

Be aware of D's advice don't buy a cheap one, an incorrect or p1ss-poorly modern made part could introduce more problems than it solves, if it solves anything. I'm not against spending small amounts of money on parts to save unwanted hassle but it does need to give some resolve or you're just delaying the issue. Sometimes/often keeping or refurbishing an old or original can be better than replacing with a modern made part even if the modern made parts fits and works. Once a car is driveable things tend to be a lot easier to sort, and things improve more as the car is used more and with more regular frequency over reasonable distance journeys where the engine oil gets fully warmed and so do the other systems and they are exercised more. As with the exhaust smoke perhaps, which if not part of your current issue, could perhaps be bettered with car use, servicing and maintenance and the use of petrols with lower ethanol and higher cleaning additive packages. Without knowing the history of the car you can think it'll be a quick wash 'n' polish and the imagined obligatory change of engine oil and it's off to the next owner with a profit, all those "classic" car turn-around shows are very, very, economical with the truth..

Also as suggested previously by another member check all connections and for damp and corrosion/crud - whether part of or contributing to this issue or not. Anything you touch on an old car new to you inspect, clean and if required lubricate as you go along even if you can't repair or replace it at that stage. As note now an accumulation of things can contribute to cause more and more involved issues and solutions so eliminate as much as you can from present and future issues as you go along. Don't expect your mechanic friend to do this he's just concerned with the issue he's been called out to, don't think because he looked at it and/or touched it that it must be good or sorted.

As with the others here part of the experienced garage mechanic friend's diagnostic kit will be his education, training and experience. But also probably a multimeter as well as his human senses. You and your son won't have the friend's education, training and experience butt you can both gain some education and experience from the ownership and running of the Felicia and you have your human senses, you can look, listen, smell, taste (careful with that) and feel things on and about the car. It doesn't seem you get much out of these cars with the, over relied on now, scan tools but even with the newer cars a human can tell there's something wrong even when the computers don't throw up error codes. (parameters tend to be very wide on some things).

In old terms it's flooded cos the car's 'puter ain't not getting told right. In the videos you put up the exhaust smoke didn't show any bad over-fuelling. And there we have why you question 99% or 100% of what. The ECT may not be 99% or 100% responsible for failure to start, other factors and elements may also be in the mix for the failure. That is not to say the that 99% or 100% might not be faulty and possibly responsible for non-start when all else is ruled out.

Boll*cks ! Computer lost my answer to Thefeliciahacker, so I'll let it go. ETA: now this post wont load up - blo*dy computers! I'll leave D.FYLAKTOS to give his answer to your question but give more general advice for you and your son that applies to any car but particular an old car. When you get in the car switch the ignition on and wait a while before trying to start the engine so that you can check all the dash lights that should come on and go out do that. After a bit of time using the car you soon learn what lights should light up and go out and which should or shouldn't light up or remain alight. Whilst waiting you could put your seat belt on and check the handbrake is fully applied. When you pull over to park the car up don't switch the engine off immediately, leave it running for about 30 seconds to check everything is as it should be with the car as you did when before and after starting the engine. After you start the engine don't just immediately pull away instead listen. look, feel and smell for anything different to usual or shouldn't be. Turn on or adjust anything required before then pulling away (check mirrors and over shoulder. Another habit to get into is not to turn anything electrical on (other than any required safety items) before the engine is running and you've satisfied yourself things are as usual with the car. Conversely, turn off all electric item (unless required for safety) before you turn the engine off, something very difficult for some to do (they leave the radio/stereo switch on, wipers, etc.) let alone talking on a phone!

Just for info, pab567's location is Poland, (if it shows on a phone) click on the down arrow at the top right corner of a post to show the 'Author's stats' to see.

Well there's Thefeliciahacker's suggestion earlier in the thread of what it might be (very confident 99%). To cover basics - have you already checked the battery terminals, terminal clamps, battery cables and end connections to be clean (secure and protected), same for all other possible connections and wires. Have you checked battery for state of charge and health - you could put a multimeter on the battery posts as you crank the engine and see what the drop reading is - you could put full size and good quality jump leads from battery terminal post connection to earth the engine - or use a set to jump leads from another car/battery to jump the Felicia. The jump leads need to be big enough and in good condition and the second battery in good condition (state of charge and health) or a second reliable car. I've seen people fail to start a car because they use skinny (or once extended) jump leads and/or a second battery not up to the job. I wouldn't mind a pound for each time I've been told "the battery is good" or skinny scruffy jump leads are used (might overheat and the clip comes off) or a jump starter pack simply doesn't start the car or like a spare wheel has been allowed to go too low or flat so as much use as a fart in a cullender. Might (probably?) not be any of this of course but if a car doesn't start electric is what I start with from my experience(s). There I got it off me chest, I feel better if no one else does (-12.5c in Norfolk yesterday).

For other Felicia owners - in your experience, is the son correct (possibly for the wrong reason) that it is best to have the clutch pedal fully depressed for starting particularly when the weather is this cold?

On a previous posts (and thread?) we got caught out with videos as we thought it wasn't the starter motor but it turned out to be the starter motor - I am not saying this is so in your case just that things like this can be difficult to diagnosis remotely. For me, others will know better, given the -4.5c and the length of cranking possibly the possibility of it starting might diminish. Are you able to try bump starting it, down a slope, ramps or hill if possible is best (probably not in reverse given the snow on the ground) - or have a strong young son doing the pushing, it is his car, the pushing will warm him up in the cold. The interior shown looks very good.

@eyalasd it was totally my mistake as I could see from your 'Author's stats' that you are in Israel and should have picked up on your comment about where you live (but I forgot both) but as this is a UK based site, up to you if you want to, it might be best to put you are in Israel as not everyone will look at your (I often do but forgot this time) and I don't know if the 'Author's stats' show on all devices (I use a PC not phone, tablet). Just a suggestion. Good luck.

I have removed cambelt info as it applies to Europe not Israel. Apologies to eyalasd. I assume other servicing (and maintenance) intervals are also different for what used to be termed "severe(?) driving conditions"(?) which would include Dust Rich.

Check you phone scan tool program is fully up to date for the car you have and consider car and scan tool programs can have errors and omissions, so mistakes, always double-check and cross-reference all sources of information, from computers (programs), car and scan tool manufacturers, data bases and blokes on the internet. Sorry, good point about the timing belt interval, it may be different in your country for the sand and heat, the - Evolution13 has beat me to it, I'm a very slow one-finger typist. Look at the very top left corner of the page.

No problem. I can see you now have two posts and other details from your 'Author's stat' (click on drop down arrow). Good luck.

Hi, welcome. You need to call pab567 by putting an '@' in front of his member name as you can't direct message him until you have a certain number of posts. I will do it for you now to save time. Good luck. @pab567 can you help please, cheers.

Could that be the brake servo. Have a look on this site at what other model owners report that have the same DSG. What is your scanner, are the programs for it up to date and relate to your exact car.

Olari, have you checked the flap under the car again, that it's fitted correctly and any connections and wires are clean, secure and protected, checked connections and wires at other end. If you are really sure any problem has been sorted then perhaps if you try clearing the code when it's warmer (to see if it returns when it is next colder). Try this after driving more than 4km - but no communication is an error somewhere with the car or CarScanner ELM, is the CarScanner ELM programing fully up to date for your car. Or you could try using a different scan tool but no communication might show again (or it might not). HTH.

Sorry I missed this post. I often put the best tuning you can do is further driver training and it can be transferred to other cars at no expense. Motorbikes are a good example of being remote from the environment with earplugs, full face helmet, full "leathers" , gloves and boots it's no wonder they have to go so fast and make so much noise (similar to modern cars where the driver is so insulated and remote). Coming from a motorbike your son might even enjoy the extreme of a slower, less power, noisier car, where pushing it a bit is more fun than in a modern car and still withing legal speeds, the fun of maintaining a speed and probably keeping up well with modern traffic but having a bit of fun rather than half-asleep with boredom in the modern car. Don't fall into the trap of old car so any old cheap oils and petrol will do as with the modern oils and petrols the car will be better than when it was new and better quality modern oils (full synthetics of good quality) will also offer further and longer protection and provide more protect if other things go wrong and heat increases. Remember if you can't increase power you can reduce weight and a 50hp old car is better power-to-weight than a modern lardy 50(+) hp car. Remind your son where the power band is on the car for revs but other than not exceeding legal speed limits not to worry about what number the speedo needle points to, it's all about how it feels not numbers. No matter how powerful, quick, fast your car or motorbike goes sometimes you could always want more and anyway other cars and bikes will be more powerful, quicker and faster.