nta16

To me there's gear lever selection sounds I'm not sure I heard the click but things did sound louder than I'd expect but that might just be the recording and position of phone when recording. Get the Dealership to remove the gear lever gaiter and look at and listen to the mechanism to see if something is loose or a foreign body is in there. If it was out of warranty I'd give the area a little lubrication and see if that changes the sound and/or get someone to drive with the gaiter removed (but careful not to drop or spill anything in the exposed area) and I would be in the passenger seat listening. With the gaiter removed the sound will be less muffled.

Quick thoughts. Half an hour wouldn't be enough if the DPF really needed a blow out, and it's lower gear higher revs rather rev the nuts off you want the heat but this might not be a good idea if the car's dumping fuel into the oil and you don't know why. Can you borrow a scan tool to check the short term and long term fuel trims. What's the history of this 3 year old 75k-mile car, how many engine oil changes and any other servicing and maintenance work done or repairs or problems. Have you searched the forum for similar issue(s) on your particular engine. Have you checked for Recalls. Were there any comments about fuel in the oil that came out of the engine, was the triangle of doom and message mentioned t whoever done the oil change. I'm sure others than me will have better information and advice to give. Good luck.

Bumped for those that want to know about setting valve clearances, see video in previous post and more info in posts before it.

Yes, us oldies at least, in the UK may call the indicator lights flashers (but there is another use of the word to mean something very different). The lens pattern is to disperse the light from the indictor bulb so how would the secondary LED give a wider pattern unless the LED is specially angled to do so?

I've had a number of cars that are decades old with initial water leaks that need sorting so I can tell you if there's any sort of sound proofing under the carpet it may hold lots and lots of water so you need to as much as you can raise or remove the carpet to get the water logged sound proofing out - and/or - mop up all the water in the footwell which is currently under the carpet Without removing the water the dehumidifier stands no chance. IIIRC there was a thread on this issue but I can't remember the details or outcome, it might have been a non-UK with possible leak from the air-con drain pipe or something, IIRC (not) repaired by the Dealership and the problem came back again. Have a search for the thread. The fact that we've had a lot of rain might just be anon-effecting coincidence, but obviously I don't know. Fabia leak at the back doors, a seal goes I think, VW have know about this but don't care as IIRC it seems to happen out of warranty, reported from the Mk1 Fabia onwards. To get those leaves out you might be able to put some flexible piping on the end of a vacuum cleaner hose or attachment and even if you can't vacuum them up the hose at least hold them to the end and pick them of with a kitchen tool or long nose pliers, careful not to catch the paint. On my wife's Mk3 the plastic black cover lifts as whitedot has described but the right hand side (UK driver's side) is very restricted by the wiper arm, whether it's easier with wipers in the "service position" I don't know. - ETA: in your photo of the left hand side (viewed from rear of car) black plastic cover thing it looks the same as on my wife's 2016. The would smell if it was coolant usually and when the coolant is warm/hot get rising mist perhaps particularly if aimed at windscreen, and coolant usually feels sticky on the skin. VW G12evo is fluorescentish pinkish to my eyes.

Yeap IIRC that's how it might have been, is, can't remember now, but there's using also the (rare) common sense of adjusting for circumstances and street lighting can vary greatly in the area I live (red area on the new maps for potholes too). Not all cars are new or have lights in good condition or fully working or even the original factory colour, often on black or dark painted cars and from certain European brands, luckily there's light emitted from handheld phones or sounds from panel vibrations or other things to draw your attention if they give you enough time. But I'm sure the drivers are fully insured so no worries. 😁 Years ago the local councils decided to turn off every other street light on some roads and that seemed strange at first but you soon got used to it as a car driver, elderly and female pedestrians might have disagreed. All back on and replaced with (less) LED street lights that have now dimmed with age so no longer as very bright and lighting as they used to be for pedestrians, well those that use the two good tarmac or slabs footpaths provided and not walking in the middle of the road.

I thought we were referring to rear number plate lights for reverse parking, apologises if I got that wrong. Yeah, driving on side lights used to be common here too problem would be around town some would forget to then go on to dipped headlights when things got darker, hence possibly the bottom-wiping automatic lights. There is also an issue here with daylight running lights that are only to the front here as they will be let on when the sidelights to rear are also required, as on my wife's 2015 VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3, you can 'code' in continental style front and rear daylight running lights using the various rear side lights on the model if your have a suitable scan tool. When I used to have a very bright yellow English sportscar I tried driving on dipped beam headlights during the day to se if it would reduce other drivers pulling out from side roads into my path but some still pulled out when they shouldn't have, I've no idea if a very low small car looks like it going slower than other traffic or what but I always prepared just in case.

Uhmmm, tut, tut, tut, using them for a purpose not designed by the engineers, really. :shakeshead: :headinhands: 😄 😄 😄

Time of year(?) how often do you change the oil each year. 🙃 If, you are happy, the car's happy, VW will be happy (well whilst the car was in warranty), Castrol will be happy, then I'm happy (no idea about others, VW fans will be happyish (it's the 0w20, 5w30 split that might upset both sides). Should you ever feel rebellious and want to be on the dark side - 0w20 (C5) Millers Oils EE Performance - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-c5-v-0w20/ 5w30(C3) Millers Oils EE Performance - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-c3-5w30/ Other good oils that haven't got VW's "Approval" are also available, but remember this is on the dark side so you'll also not get VW fans' approval, people may cross the street to avoid you and pity you. 😄 Good luck.

There are loads of posts (and possible threads) on the 0w-20 discussion / debate / verging on argument on Briskoda and elsewhere and as with many oil beliefs supporters on both sides. More important than just the raw numbers is that the oil is appropriate to use and changed in a timely and thorough manner. Only time will tell which might be the better choice, if either or none.. It might depend on how long you want to keep the car or how long the car can actually last for whatever reason.

Hi dsgman My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 1.2 TSI (90, 5-speed manual, definitely not my car) used to use Dealerships' stock oil (whatever they had in stock at the time) but I now use a good quality oil that's blended in Britain which is recommended for the VW specs but they've not paid for VW's approval. I know that does and will bother others but that doesn't bother me as I've used their oils for years and find them good. I don't think my choice of oil can improve the VW engine very much at all and it costs more than the (previously?) recommended Castrol brand (not bought from Dealership) but it's my preference to waste even more money on her choice of car. As always each to their own.

These repeats are upsetting and annoying for you. They may not be totally targeted more perhaps bloody-minded careless and disrespect for other people's property and possibly their own. Or perhaps they are under drinks and/or drugs. Might all be coincides and the risks of the parking location. What about buying some video camera(s) and putting them in the car to at least record if not deter - or would they create more problems than they solve. Get cheap one in case someone things they're worth breaking into the car to steal.

Might still be worth checking that the bulb holder is fitted correctly and fully fitted and same for bulb, people make mistakes or rush when fitting things. In the UK some people put LED or other bulbs for rear number plate illumination, for the rear (reflective) number plates and they can be so bright and light colour and wrong light pattern that the number plate isn't as well illuminated as with original bulbs and create a distracting over-lit area on the car. Might not be these 1 watt bulbs though but probably 5000+k colour.

@Evolution13 a chart I've used for years.

5w40 can be a low SAP but might not be VW 504.00 or VW 507.00, there's also mid saps. The VWŠkoda Dealerships that changed the engine oil on my wife's car put various service information and materials on the bills/invoices they gave her including different engine oil information, whether it was always correct, accurate (or honest) I don't know. What happens in a "shop" in the Lisbon area I would have no idea, if the oil used is wrong for the engine and use then it's how much is it wrong for levels of panic and concern and if the shop can't fully justify its use in the engine then it needs an apology and replacing. Perhaps we will get the full details and outcome.

Thanks for reporting back. Obviously you have to be sure the problem is with the gearbox, or at least partly or contributory, and not elsewhere. To be fair the short time we had a (SEAT) 1.0, 3-cylinder, 110 PS with 6-speed manual box it was fine but it was a hire car so low mileage but possibly a lot of gear use and not always careful treatment by the drivers. To me the VW 4-cylinder engines sound a bit rough so removing a cylinder I can't see helping, the Japanese manufacturers are a lot more use to making small 3-cylinder engines. Also I don't find the 5-speed gearbox in my wife's car to be other than family car sufficient, a bit clonky and off-mesh sometimes for 1st and reverse. All the 3-cylinder Japanese engined gearboxes I've had have been very good including a 6-speed. In my wife's 2015 Fabia 5-speed though there was no problem with the gear change I changed the gearbox oil (at 5.5 years, 31,000 miles / 50,000 km) from what VW use from factory to a better suitable oil and my wife said she noticed a general improvement, not much but noticeable. You don't list your location so I've no idea what warranty you might get but once out of warranty I would change the gearbox oil to a better oil. For many decades better gearbox oils have been produced for various gearboxes with different requirements or to make up for design and build compromises there have been for previous VWs I understand. I've no idea how easy or awkward a change is on a 6-speed, on my wife's car it was more farting about than on all the others I've done but I expected that from a German marque. I would expect a better more suitable quality oil to help, possibly cure, but not necessarily always fully eliminate the issue without taking care on that gear change. Good luck.

I've no idea what oil is available in Lisbon in what weight ranges to what specifications, as I put as long as the oil is suitable to the engine and it's use you could have 5w30 or other and then there's the other possibilities I've mentioned. For VW specifications, the info isn't from AI but may still contain error(s) and omission(s) so needs checking, even from manufacturers websites. https://www.oilspecifications.org/volkswagen.php https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/194/OEM-and-Manufacturers-Approvals/211

Quick thoughts until someone better comes along. Was the new battery 'coded' in? VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf After battery change did the electric system get given a heavy load (air-con, blower and headlights on and steering turned fully both ways and then a drive? As well as scan tool check have you done physical checks or used other diagnostic tools like a multimeter?

My only suggestion is to look at and/or ask on the Škoda model forum(s) that use that 2.0L TDI 140, 2009 era, manual gbox'd VAG engine (sorry I've no idea(s)). P0403 and squelches might point you towards the right direction. Good luck.

That was something I wonder about, if the bulb holders were put in the correction position in the light units, so try it on the easiest side to do and see what the result is. It might just be the photos but the lights seem very bright and full for just side position lights. There are no manners or thought about the use of lights now, idiots pull over or park on the wrong side of the road and leave their headlights on unnecessarily shinning into the eyes of drivers on the road unnecessarily.

Or, if you must have bright "white" lights have you seen these as an alternative. - https://www.philips.co.uk/c-p/12961WVUB2/whitevision-ultra-conventional-interior-and-signalling

It didn't lie it just doesn't know what it's typing about. You always need to double-check and cross reference any information you get from any source but possibly much more with AI chat things. Not necessarily they have used a different weight range of oil 5w-40 instead of 5w-30 that is not the end of the world. A 5w-** oil will be good oil as that's what required to meet the 5w (winter cranking, starting of the engine) the 30 or 40 is more about when the engine and oil are warm/hot. The 40 of 5w-40 may be close to a 30 in a 5w-30 as the 30 and 40 numbers relate to a range within the actual number especially as things change with the use of the oil in the engine. Also bear in mind your location where it might get very hot weather where the garage might prefer the high number oil. You could check that the oil they used matches the VW spec number 5** ** your particular engine requires. You need to ask the garage, it could be a typing error on your bill/invoice or they prefer the use of 5w-40 in your location, or perhaps they just have 5w-40 oil to get rid of. As long as the 5w-40 oil is suitable for your engine, in your location with your use of the engine it could well be fine and better than a 5w-30 oil of a lesser quality and suitability for your engine use.

Thanks for reporting back with the conclusion. The thing looks a bit rough in your photo. Gawd knows what cheap chemicals and oil stuffs are used with these cheap parts (or very expensive ones) but you'd want to get rid of the fumes in the wide open fresh air at least, outside an enclosure like a car cabin. £30-40 is high enough but £97 perhaps shows why VW have these things break. febi don't seem to always be as good as they once were with all their parts which seem to be the same made parts others sell under other brand names but that might be the case with Mahle as far as I (don't ) know - but (rightly or wrongly) I'd be happier those brand names than anything off Amazon (I'd sooner go eBay UK anyway).

Ali, sorry, I've no idea. You could see/search if there's information and advice on DIY front sensors (other than balls on on spring bars) in other sections or threads of Briskoda, say model 'Project' or 'Guides' or perhaps the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' or 'Audio, Electronics and Security' sections. HTH.

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it, Škoda Octavia section of site, though there are many other sections. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/