nta16

No I was just going on what it has in the Handbook, perhaps I've misread it. You have misread what I put too, I didn't say the three things were to do with the ECU, MAF was in brackets (MAF) and yes you did misquote my spiel but I wasn't taking it as you were quoting more of a general p1ss-take than a quote. I did ask you what you disagreed with but in a similar manner to your post, I don't mind answering others even if they don't answer me but it can drag on a bit and get a bit of a drag. I can look for what's in the Handbook later or you can look for yourself, this should work I think. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

@Auxiliaryobviously you can follow whatever information / advice / opinion you want and if it excludes mine there are no bad feelings from me about that. Checking with a scan tool is always a good idea as long as the error codes and not just taken only as the absolute answer but more often as a starting point of diagnosis. @xmanhas put about checking and/or changing the spark plugs, IIRC it is not recommended to clean then now (other than a blow-out run perhaps). I always where appropriate like to clean the throttle body (MAF). I think most(?) would agree that the car's litres/hour (and litres/100 km) may not be that accurate so only taken as a very general guide. I think it is not right to say doing as in the video I posted is the same as removing the key from the ignition, removing the key from the ignition does not then require the electric windows synchronisation (very easy to do), set the clock and put radio code in. ETA: I was wrong, this is not required in practice, see below -"A manual entry of the code is normally not necessary". It is right to say doing the 'battery reset' may not help much or fully resolve as it depends on what the fault actually is and even if it does clear if there is an ongoing fault the issue will return but it is free and very easy to do and if it does little or nothing you have lost little or nothing. If you take the opportunity to charge the battery whilst disconnected you do gain that. There are lots of videos /threads /posts on this all over the internet, the following is VW specific but not as tidily illustrated All the best to you. -

Thanks, I missed that, sorry I missed the words out, I meant to put - I would not be driving it at 20 mph in 4th gear. I will edit in now.

Always check that the known good battery from a neighbour or friend is actually good. In my own experience more often than not I have been told by neighbours and friends that their battery in use or the spare battery is good when it is not and at least needs charging. With any electrical or starting problems a good battery in good state of charge will help but if not then it can hinder the diagnose, repair and conformation of repair.

And you found that relevant, or just being polite. Often very relevant - which bit do you disagree with. 😄 I'm sure that remark will get you a 'Thanks', I'll start the ball rollin'. 😁

Fair enough. Previously I was trying to give you direct hyperlinks to save you going through the pages but it didn't work but the ones below take you to the areas to work through a couple of clicks to what you might want or need. Also I don't mean to insult you and bear in mind I cannot see your radio or the foam and I except that Skoda may have downgraded on the internals of the radio for various reasons, so hold on to your hat and reaction, as with the screen snip from the (annoying online) (6/21) Handbook it shows the use of the USB slot, any chance the foam is transit packaging? I'm not sure what you mean about RDS display and you may already know this, if so apologises, but another screen snip to be sure. The links, again you might already have them but just in case and as with above they might be of use to other viewers to the thread. Owners Manuals (scroll down the page) - https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/your-skoda Update portal - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Cheers.

Fair enough, you are focusing on one area only, although you have expanded it to mpg, I prefer to see if there more to it, I think more information and history is relevant and on a forum like this there is the space to expand. We've gone from a judder to also 20mph in 4th, some service history. If the OP wants or prefers your more laser approach that's fine they can like others ignore my wider approach or just say they already know what I've put, or don't find it relevant. Then you need to consider that there are also many more viewers than contributors. Sorry but whenever I try short directness I get it wrong in someway so I stick with the wider approach.

On the national price sheet air filter is at 60k-miles / 6 years, I remember this as it really surprised me that the air filter is so long as I'm more used to annual or even 6-monthly changes of air filters. It was what you and/or perhaps AGFalco put about changing the air filter when changing the plugs at 4 years that made me check if both had been done at 4 years on my wife's car and sure enough both had been charged at 4 years. The current lot at the local Dealership had to be reminded that a change of brake fluid was due - but there again a change of engine oil & filter is a full car service isn't it, 6 of those is a full service history too. 😁

Fair enough but what about the other systems on the car? It' is accepted that @Auxiliary need not worry about disconnecting the battery and discharging wiring as this will not cause any damage. I'd take that opportunity to recharge the battery too, giving it a long, slow, low recharge possibly having to do that indoors if it's cold weather unless the charger can compensate for this with a winter setting, always a good idea to have plenty of battery power this time of year. After running the car for a while I'd plug in a relevant machine to see what fresh codes appears but I have no idea what level of scan tool @Auxiliary has. The car has done about 170,000 miles, had a judder and stubbles in 4th at about 20mph, personally if that's the total of the problem I would not be driving it at 20 mph in 4th and certainly avoid doing so, it is winter, unless there is more to the problem or it gets worse I would not worry about it until the weather improves unless I had access to a heated garage. Perhaps there is too much concern with getting the last nth degree of mpg out of the car - and that might preclude going about 20 mph in 4th, driving it through the gears more briskly might well improve the mpg. Auxiliary has a selection of suggestions and information and probably a preference as to which are more preferable, and no doubt other viewers too. 😊

Personally I never have, the only classic I have ever owned with power steering were renown for leaking at the steering box practically from new if not new. Our friend Scotty says polymers are good for helping (rubber?) seals. I would have thought wear would also be from contaminated fluid too which is why flushing out and renewing fluid would be good, of course if the fluid is left in too long and there is too much contamination and wear on seals then it might be the contamination of bits that stops the seals from leaking more than they already do. You could perhaps decide this from the sediment at the bottom. If things look too bad you can decide, whether to replace or recondition the the unit if possible ,or just put the old fluid with bits back in the unit.

No it will not, after you reconnect the battery and start the car let it idle for 10-15minutes if you are worried then drive it. Just to prove it can work. -

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(Fuchs is a German company) but you can email, your English is certainly good enough to contact Opie Oils by email, in fact you have to for Fuchs Technical Data Sheets (I had forgotten that). - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-product-information-request.aspx The Opie Oils search for G 002 00 misses Febi Bilstein 06162 Central Hydraulic And Power Steering Fluid - Green (CHF 7.1) (mineral?). - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-180272-febi-bilstein-06162-central-hydraulic-and-power-steering-fluid-green-chf-71.aspx Also at Opie Oils Febi Bilstein 06161 Hydraulic / Suspension / Power Steering Fluid (synthetic). - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-180271-febi-bilstein-06161-hydraulic-suspension-power-steering-fluid.aspx

Always start with full service for the whole car no just the relatively unimportant engine. What is usually missed from a service of the engine, which many owners and garages take to mean just an engine oil & filter change, is also often cleaning, air filter replacement, throttle body, MAF as appropriate. Giving the car a good blowout run 30+ miles on motorway or similar can often help as well as a couple of tankfuls of better fuel like V-power. Also very important to running is that the car battery is not allowed to go too low in charge, you may still be able to start the car and the lights seem bright enough but the battery could still be too low for the over-complicated and invasive computer programs, particular battery monitor and start/stop programs, that the computers will throw up all sorts of problems. Check the battery condition and state of charge. Do not take raw error codes as an answer as usually they are only pointing to where the proper diagnostics should start. If you do not have access to a decent scan tool here is a quick, easy and free way to reset the computers and systems. Good luck. -

Where possible I prefer to phone and speak with a person as I have such great charm (and modesty) I can get passed the marketing speak and get honest information and opinions, plus it saves me having to ask more questions from the replies I do not understand. I have found that even oil companies employ people and they are no different to other people. Often though it might be you are better to email, though these are easier to get lost or ignored particularly by large companies such as Bosch as one example from my experience. You have put up a link that includes Fuchs Titan CHF 11S Hydraulic Fluid (Formerly Pentosin CHF 11S) VW G 002 000 specification. to Opie Oils, they would be a good place to email as they are happy to deal with enquires and certainly used to, I do not know if they still do, answer questions in threads of car forum sites, possibly I might have seen evidence of such here. Opie Oils - Sales & General Enquiries: [email protected] - 01209 202944 - Sales & Advice Hotline - Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 5:30pm - https://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-find-opie-oils.aspx For capacity you would need to check but 2 litres for a good flush seems about fine I would have thought.

@Darren92 you might want to take a look at this. -

The guy is probably out of date, oils have come on a lot since 1989, where synthetic PS oils widely available then in the auto industry(?). The not mixing would have been more about not mixing with other standard hydraulic or PS oils available at the time, they would not have cared less what was available 32 years later as that would be well out of warranty and dealer resale periods. Just follow the line, as I put before, and the hyperlink to it, Fuchs Titan took over Pentosin so ask them they will be the experts in the oils they produce, if they say it can not be mixed that is the end of it, strange though that if that is the case they do no not sell CHF 7.1 unless there was some dispute or contract with it that excluded it from the take over. This is my FINAL WORD! No more discussion...ever!! 🤣 - Note: Fuchs Titan CHF 11S Hydraulic Fluid (Formerly Pentosin CHF 11S) shows specification VW G 002 000 on its can and is dyed green. - https://www.fuchs.com/pl/en/product/product/17246-titan-chf-11s/ I had all this proving the line of oil to the Ford type 9 gearbox as the oil chaps that rebuild the box insist on the use of a Ford oil that is no longer available and the specification had totally widen out over the decades or a Comma oil which would not be the highest level, I could give you details but I have already given my FINAL WORD! No more discussion...ever!! 🤣 No that is it, I am discussing it no more ...ever!! - That tells you a lot I would have thought - my FINAL WORD!

Just as a bit of background, there are synthetic oils and 'synthetic' oils, I leave you to research the difference, I have been using them in my various 1970s everyday use "classic" (over-valued and over-priced) cars for about 30 years. From back then and still now some, usually those that hardly ever drive their "classic" (over-valued and over-priced) cars, have told me I must use mineral oils only and using synthetic/'synthetic' oils will ruin my cars, rot my teeth and steal my looks. I've done hundreds of thousands of miles in those various classics and the oils kept them running well and I still have my teeth and looks. My current car is from 1973, 21 years before the first Felicia and 28 years before the last Felicia, and it has 'synthetic' oils in the engine, in the (early '80s Ford) gearbox, GL5 and rear axle, GL5.

Can You Mix Older Mineral Based VW Hydraulic Power Steering Fluid with the Updated and Newer Synthetic Power Steering Fluid? There has been a good measure of controversy over this question. Here is what our own experience has shown. Over the last decade we've had no compatibility problems mixing the CHF 7.1 non-synthetic mineral base fluid and the CHF 11S synthetic based VW hydraulic power steering fluid. No problems with our own vehicles and no problems with our customers vehicles. Our success in mixing the 2 Volkswagen hydraulic power steering fluids coincides with the VW tech bulletin 48-89-T07 issued in November 1989. It states, "The new [synthetic VW quality specification TL 52 146.00, OE part number G 002 000 A2 or CHF11s] and old power steering fluid [non-synthetic CHF 7.1 OE part number A0E 041 020 10] can be mixed if necessary." So according to VW, you can mix the 2 Volkswagen hydraulic power steering fluids. Even though the composition of the fluid changed from a synthetic base oil vs a non-synthetic mineral oil. 1980-1989 VW models came filled from the factory with OE part number A0E 041 020 10 or CHF 7.1 mineral based fluid. 1990-2005 VW models have come filled from the factory with the synthetic VW spec TL 52 146.00, OE part number G 002 000 A2 or CHF11s. 2006-current VW hydrailic power steering fluid systems are filled with the fully synthetic VW TL 52 146.01, G 004 000 A2, CHF202 spec. Important Note: Never mix generic power steering fluid or other fluid with VW power steering fluid (G002000) or CHF202 (G004000). If you or someone else did, flush the VW power steering fluid as described below. When flushing your hydraulic steering fluid system, we recommend upgrading to the newest fully synthetic VW G004000 fluid specification. Overview of How to Change VW Hydraulic Fluid Demonstated/Applies to 1998-2005 VW Passat Models We always recommend having an A.S.E. certified VW mechanic change your VW hydraulic power steering fluid. Refer to the factory service manual for VW hydraulic system instructions. Always wear gloves and wear safety goggles when handling VW fluids. Never start the vehicle without VW hydraulic power steering fluid in the fluid reservoir. This is a basic overview of what is involved when flushing VW hydraulic power steering fluid. It is not intended to replace the factory service manual. Please refer to the factory service manual for detailed instructions. The VW hydraulic fluid reservoir is located on the driver’s side inner fender well in the engine compartment right behind the head lamp. Locate the hydraulic power steering cooler tubing in front of the radiator. Find the rubber hose that attaches to the tubing located near the driver’s side lower corner of the radiator. Disconnect the hose and drain the VW hydraulic fluid. Flush the old VW hydraulic fluid out of the VW steering rack and pinion. Turn the steering wheel full lock side to side about 10-20 times. This sequence pushes the VW hydraulic fluid out of the steering rack and into the fluid reservoir for it to drain out. Some models have a sleeve type filter screen inserted in the fill hole of the VW hydraulic fluid reservoir. If it has the filter, remove it and clean it. Clean out the sediment that also exists on the bottom of the VW hydraulic fluid reservoir. Reinstall the VW hydraulic fluid hose removed in step (2) and fill the reservoir with G002000/G004000 VW hydraulic fluid. Start the engine and let the car run for 10 seconds at idle. Important! Do not rev the engine up. Revving the engine could cause hydraulic pump damage. Repeat this step several times while confirming the hydraulic fluid reservoir is full. Refill the VW hydraulic fluid reservoir again with G002000 hydraulic steering fluid. Start the engine and let the car run at idle, turn the steering wheel full lock about 10 times from side to side. Turn the engine off and fill the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir to the maximum capacity level as indicated. Scroll towards bottom of this page - https://www.clubtouareg.com/threads/use-only-mineral-hydraulic-fluid-g002000.292052/

Febi Bilstein 06162 Central Hydraulic And Power Steering Fluid - Green (CHF 7.1) Fuchs Titan (Was Pentosin) but they don't seem to do CHF 7.1. - https://www.fuchs.com/pl/en/products/product-program/automotive-lubricants/central-hydraulic-power-steering-fluids/

If it is a diesel engine and your cabin heater works heater fine why change a working thermostat just change the sensor, do you really want to be messing about too much with coolant in winter. Buy a good quality sensor, cheap can be rubbish so expensive. And you might swap out a working thermostat for a new one that fails sooner.

There you go Harsner, you surely don't need anymore than this. 😁

This still seems to work for me. - http://go.skoda.eu/updateportal (ETA: once you've put your VIN in as it's a new car there could be loads of updates and you may need to scroll down the page for radio logos.)

Sorry, on further investigation the first link went somewhere strange but you could change the language to English - but don't bother with it. You will have to go to the 'ŠKODA Owners' page, scroll down towards bottom of that page and click on link for 'Owners manuals' and make your own way (as partly detailed above).

Are you using an i-can't-Phone or other such smart-a*se portable device as I can't speak German only Nor'umpten (me duck), those links are in English for my PC with cordless keyboard (that can't spell) and mouse. Try this - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/en-US/Updates/