nta16
FREEDOMLite
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Everything posted by nta16
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Quick explanation - this bears out with going from a battery that's on it's arse and properly fully recharging it the car then has to deal with that big difference which it does. Longer version - my thoughts would also be that if you have a battery, say 6 years old, in a deep state of discharge but you fully revive it by disconnecting it from the vehicle and giving it a long low slow recharge then when you reinstall it to the vehicle the vehicle's computer system would would need to make a very big adjustment going from a depleted battery to one that is fully recharged and may well hold that charge because it has gone deeper giving sufficient battery capacity again and the car's computer programs adjust to this.
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A good headline.
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. At least theses are in organised logs I've seen gloveboxes absolutely full of paper with figures on the back of till receipts and envelopes, imagine the family having to get those into chronological order. For some with very long term ownership of the vehicle it becomes habit and part of the ownership. No different really to other recording like taking photos of the vehicle, unless it includes a selfie and you see how badly you might age (depending on the amount of make up and filters you use on these images). My wife saves a pocket/handbag-size diary from each year and about every decade I'll foolishly ask a question that gives her the opportunity to search through these and give an answer which she "wouldn't be able to do if the diaries had not been kept". 🙁
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes I would do a mpg check on an old car new to me or if I thought a car wasn't running right or to test out new parts or "improvements" but that would be it. I don't like to keep many virtual records let alone paper records. Unless there's a fault in the car other than changes in some parts, perhaps as service replacement much of the improved mpg I'd have thought would be from driver technique including vehicle preparation. I certainly don't like doing the math (another American invasion) but I can do (very) simple maths and it's took me hours to remember what had a re-emergence in the 70s petrol crisis (such as it actually was here) the 'TelUlog' (I couldn't get the name right), no converting from (UK) gallons then of course.
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Dimensions are overall. If you're keeping the car it doesn't pay to go cheap on a car battery in my opinion and experience. Tayna offer a range of 096 batteries and have (their?) Enduroline 096 as Star Buy. I bought an Enduroline for my car (not a Fabia) 5-6 years ago and it's been fine, never touched it. Extra storage capacity and CCA (Cold Cranking Power) is useful to have, subject to the battery being able to retain as much of it for as long as possible. See attached PDF if you want intro info. Tayna 096 Standard batteries - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/096/ HTH. CarBatteryInformation.pdf
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes it was quick but the joe public crowd at the charity day were waiting more for the likes of a red Fezza (with a driver that didn't know his car, cooked the front brakes) so being one of the 'Gate' stewards I shouted if no one else was going in the car I would, and I did.
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Far too modern for me to know about. 😄
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In some cases wrapping exhaust manifold can put too much heat the the head.
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Now I didn't know you were referring to Scotland, been a few years since I've been there but it certainly suits faster cars with it's more open, flowing less congested roads not so well suited to my current car, and more suited to steady driving helping mpg. There is certainly "lies, damned lies and VW statistics". I saw on here were IIRC the Fabia has rear bodyweights. It's a matter of many records that I think of VW cars being heavy the from at least the Mk2 Golf in my memory and I know from personal experience of lighter cars the difference to power to weight someone like me can make to the car. Years ago when I went out on a passenger ride in a Fabia vRS at Bruntingthorpe 'track' I was very impressed by it, felt more like a 2 litre, I think it wass factory standard. A very quick look at your links and you put - "Real world is 37-42 mpg over the months, years. 45 mpg at UK NSL's is easy to get, so you can get 450 miles from a brimmed tank, some get near 600 miles hypermiling." Now I follow more what you meant by NSL driving but it would vary over countries and counties and I was thinking 70 not 60, my mistake, silly really as I now drive at 60 on the motorway and so are many others now it seems. In the mid-90s for at least a month I travelled up and down parts of the M1 and M6 at 50mph in a late 60s Spridget (well bits of it were) as I'd had a recon gearbox installed and it vibrated between 50 and 70. I was often in the inside lane with a quarter to half a mile between me and the next vehicle in front of me and the other two lanes nose to tail often at 55-60. Often too I would have to slow to prevent me undertaking at 50 mph yet there was still about quarter of a mile of empty lane space. Used to get good mpg then.
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Too true, I thought there was some sort of conformation that the battery wasn't in 100% health(?), I can't think a 6 year old battery would still be at 100% capacity, I took the 100% to be the 12.8v charge and that that had been lost overnight suggesting time for change. ETA: its not hundreds on a battery and of course there could be more than one fault, that might or might not involve the battery in one or any of those faults. Usually worth rechecking what you've double-checked before too.
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Well done. Do me a favour I can't keep up with all my errors could you edit some of mine too. 😁
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Unless you're going to be selling the car going for cheap on a battery isn't a good idea in my opinion and experience. IIRC Tayna will price match like for like and available, and if you order before ??3pm?? you normally get it delivered next day. Tayna lists have tabs for EFB and AGM at top of page. The Xtool may depend on its type and programming as to what and how much it can do but plug it in and give it a go, then you want to reuse it after a reasonable drive to check what it has still showing. As I've discovered some say they've cleared codes but other machines can still see them not that it matters if the car is running fine. Get the new battery before the panic buying starts.
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Yes, on old cars you just manually turned the air filter housing inlet tube through a ninety degree turn from horizontal to pointing to exhaust. But if you sealed the adapter the what has got caught, did it have springs and you left the springs on and they have come away with the seal/valve/cover, I'm lost, perhaps a photo of the offending items.
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Would you never encounter traffic jams and have to overtake, wouldn't be much point getting the vRS, unless you mean with a vRS and you'd get even more in a non-vRS driving it like it's a non-vRS. All interesting stuff to someone from the 70s (not in their 70s,yet).
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeap totally agree with that. But doesn't the car already do that with it's readouts, if you reset all that needs resetting if required, I don't know as I'm not allowed to touch any settings as it's not my car and I don't often drive it (I did plumb in oil temperature and got away with it as it never leaves digital MPH).
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This is the bit I was looking for. MPG means very little to me otherwise I wouldn't have had the cars I had and have now, A to B driving I prefer to be a passenger preferably in someone else's vehicle, I've never been in a better vehicle than someone else's where they have the hassle and expenses, mpg being just one which I'll happily contribute to.
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Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I am researching it, I'm asking you and others. 😉 That's my point, it's not brim to brim. I can fill my old car up to brim, literally to the back of the petrol cap (not a good idea) and I know this takes time and several attempts to let the filling petrol settle, the hose tip can only be at the very start of the filler aperture (do we count the lost vapours from this) again not a good idea. Doing the fill to first click and mileage is fine and reasonably accurate, good enough, but no point going to too many decimal places and a rounded up or down whole figure for mpg is fine is but it not that accurate, more accurate than VW figures no doubt and more real world.
