nta16

Having been with "classic" (over-priced and overvalued old cars) cars for 30years let me warn you, the modern made parts quality for these cars has for many years (15-20) often been ****-poor and crap, mainly because most "classic" owners are tight-fisted old-farts but also because the companies that originally made the parts that lasted literally decades are either no longer around or in name only. The companies that make these parts also make parts for modern cars so buy carefully. Personally I'd always prefer Japanese made parts over those with German brand names on them which can often be made elsewhere anyway.

I like the idea of electric cars, the instant torque, but cars are fast becoming just mobile infotainment centres. Many years ago Ford and others were think the younger generation wouldn't want car ownership but rather leasing or renting, which makes much more sense. Most vehicles are unused for most hours of a day and have one occupant at many or most times which is a ridiculous waste of resources. Electric has to be generated and distributed unless cars become mobiles batteries, energy stores, that can be use yo transfer electric when its not needed and when and where it is needed they will be relatively short term. Hydrogen or perhaps ammonia may turn out to be better or something not considered yet. For switchover it'd make sense to use the existing infrastructures, sites, tanks, pipes, etc. There are still about 8,000+ petrol stations in the UK (around 40,000 in the mid-1960s according to Wiki) I've no idea the average number of pumps they have but their locations on travel routes would be useful to convert to whatever.

Arh, the certainty of youth, and you could well be right which is why I would get one of those inexpensive kits as a next step - but - you can run for quite a while after refilling a system for all the bubbles to go, remember normally you are not looking for them there might even normally be some at the next heat cycle or more. A lot depends on what was done, removed, how it was refilled. I've lost track of the filling of the coolant or water. captain_crunch Another quick thought - (if fitted?) has the heater control been set to hottest setting allowing the heater matrix to fill and purge?

Provided the Duracell aren't knock-off they should be fine. It's just terminology, just do as Page 44 - "... or the battery on the remote control was replaced. This means it is necessary to synchronise the code as follows: Press any button on the remote control. pressing of the button means that the door will unlock with the key within 1 minute." I think what they mean is to resynchronise /code the key fob remote you push any button on it and (possibly, so ****-poorly written) you then within 1 minute use the key blade to unlock the door (I think) as that's what is done for my wife's Fabia - "Unlock the door with the key in the lock cylinder within 1 minute of pressing the button". Try doing this. When using the remote normally please to save battery life and not confuse the computer programs be close to the car not the other side of the car park or street. And it is not against the law to use the key blade, hush my mouth! but you then have to get the key in the ignition and switched on within 15 seconds (see Page 45), oh the jeopardy, what fun, or the alarm goes off. Also bear in mind when parking - "The operation of the remote control may temporarily be affected by interference from transmitters close to the car and which operate in the same frequency range (e.g. mobile phone, TV transmitter)." Page 45 I think they mean the angle alarm is to prevent anyone lifting the vehicle to towing it away. Also bring me too is there anything in the car that might move and set the alarm off, paper Xmas decorations waving around, you've locked a kid in there or much worst still an animal? If the alarm goes off again try turning off the interior alarm bit instruction Page 45 - "Switch off the interior monitor and towing protection monitoring" or this video one of many on Octavia Mk2. - Other useful videos. -

NO. I am saying to use the WD-40 for its one good use to disperse water, that is move water (damp, condensation) off and away from items so that full power of electric gets to where it it supposed to go and not lost through water contact. I do not like WD-40 Multi-Use and would always use GT85 instead but if you have WD-40 Multi-Use to hand then dispersing water is what it is good at. https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/ Confirms you have a cold starting problem. No disrespect to you as your English is good and I struggle with English as my only language but vrrumm, vrrrumm, vrrummm is taken in English as the sound of an engine running not a starter motor turn.

WD-40 (Water Dispersant) Multi-Use has on one good use, as a water dispersant so if you have water, condensation (damp) on parts on the engine spraying will disperses the water. If they are cracks, breaks, splits in seals, insulation or other, or just water sitting around water might creep in and WD-40 might push it out or away. Electrics particularly leak easily with the help of water.

I am NOT an expert, to me that was not conclusive of HGF (at all) - others may know better. Please though, please hold the phone in landscape < - - landscape - - > not portrait as you have it as it will then show more generally (you are videoing an engine not some "celebrity" or "star").

Toyota did go through a bad patch IIRC chasing sales numbers and trying to be more like other car companies (gawd help us all) but I know a couple of people with 20 year old Toyotas that have been ultra reliable and not over intently looked after. What could possibly go wrong with a Renault, they really helped Nissan models. 🤣

Yes but is that the only pipe, hose, electric connector, whatever else not reconnected or not connected that should be - it you left that disconnected on purpose fair enough although I am not sure why but if that hose or other item is not connected it is not doing its job and could it also possibly drawing air in that upsets the system or other systems and/or the sensors and/or the computer. In other words - is everything connected as it should be so that the items can work together as intended. If the car starts and runs as it should in the day except for in the mornings then it is either something that is not adjusting correctly for the morning starts or a faulty item that is affected by the weather and/or environment of the morning. Have you tried spraying around with WD-40 Multi-Use as its one real purpose of dispersing water (damp).

Yes as a possibility. Sorry I am not sure what leak you mean but that could cause a leak of pressure, fluid leak would probably leave evidence marking, unless it is steam.

A very stupid mistake. Luckily they weren't that loose and were nuts on wheel studs (much better design), It was a matter of not checking, or not checking again, what you have already checked (or thought you had) - to check you actually did check it previously. Also a matter of getting the priorities wrong, wanting to check the fix/repair too quickly over rechecking and rechecking. It was a very stupid mistake but would be even more stupid if it wasn't learnt from and not done again. I now have ways of making some sort of mark or gesture to confirm I have checked and to recheck the wheel nuts torque again after 30-50miles. With the Fabia I leave the wheel bolt (stupid design to have bolts) plastic covers off and in an annoying place in the car as a reminder to check the torque and replace the covers then.

Joob, in that video the electric and starter side sound healthy so check basics like fuel delivery and spark - BUT - in that video I notice a hose not connected what else has been left off or missed - do not start rebuilding the car for a "schoolboy error" done yesterday/today. We have all done something at some times, I thought my car did not sound right after starting and it was because I had not replaced a spark plug HT lead I removed to get easier access to something else. I once took the car on a test run after doing some front brake work to have a strange noise a mile later and discovered I had left the wheel nuts only finger tight and they were loose. You may know the saying - "after checking everything else check the bleedin' obvious".

It was a great benefit to the smart car my wife bought in 2000, LHD import just months before Daimler-Benz(?) sent up just down the road from us in Milton Keynes to set up the smart dealerships, unfortunately as a sub-section within the Merc dealerships. I rang them at this stage and got put through to the head poncho (forget his name) for smart (UK?) he was what I expected from this position within such a company, a disappointment but not a surprise. The German lot ruined the smart car, the Merc Dealerships, as most all English Dealership were/are, were even useless with the Mercs. Because the A-Class fell over the lowly smart got all the safety electronics of even the more expensive Mercs (the ones above the taxis and delivery vans) the box for the electronics was about the same size as the lovely 599cc turbo engine. I had a half-hour of work done at Merc MK on the smart, £30/hour so £15 (+VAT) I sat upstairs having a cup of tea while I waited and watched the slowest workshop I'd ever seen do the work. One bloke in a lab coat and a young trainee (apprentice I hope not) very slowly do the work. I'd cleaned the car before taking it in as I always did with cars and smudged glove marks were left on the mirror glass and I later saw a/the (I forget) cross head screwhead(s) burred! And these guys I imagine would also be also working on the the very expensive Mercs at about £80/hour(?) at the time. IIRC Merc at one time wanted shot of all their English Dealerships and run them themselves. Later smart had their own "boutique" small showrooms, "boutique" marketing was an idea BMW took on for their MINI brand inside their BMW Dealership showrooms. As you can tell I'm not generally a fan of German cars, vastly overrated often, including VW/VAG. And relax . . . . . 😄

That is why I put to check around the threads on the expansion tank if it's plastic and plastic cap, also for slight split there or at any seam. When I had my Skoda Estelles new back in the mid-to late 1980s I think I had to replace the blue(?) or brown(?) (I forget) plastic pressure cap otherwise (HGF) head gasket failure would have been considered. I have had 5 HGFs and only one had the usual notable symptoms appear in time, the others were more obvious with hindsight but too late by then. I saw someone with a "classic" car that was not driven much but had just returned from a trip of hundreds of miles and on seeing it I said I thought it had HGF and he said it had been that way for 18 months so he had hardly driven it since then - so do not always expect to see text book symptoms. For your issue if it is not the cap or tank then that inexpensive test kit I linked to before may help with finding HGF if you have that. The leak sealant probably will not work if the leak is with the plastic tank and not required if you just need to replace the cap.

raky, thanks for reporting your findings, although be very careful of poor quality bulbs - not that I know if yours are - as they don't last, and you can get warning lights 😁 Since the scan tools have become more popular more people are looking for high tech solutions to low tech problems. I think VW might have followed Merc for alarmism as my neighbour's 2005 A-class (the ones that fell over if they saw an elk) has warnings on dash (and IIRC radio) instructing a visit to Merc's Service at the slightest provocation, a raised voice or eyebrow and lights and messages everywhere. I tried to relate a story like yours to my neighbour but I think she thought I was exaggerating. Until that is myself and another neighbour with a scan tool sorted her CVT gearbox that was slipping and stuck in 2nd(?) gear (Merc CVT boxes have 7 gears!) without getting our hands dirty and from inside the car. Others don't realise how very important the condition or state of charge is to the more modern car, some will find out soon now winter approaches. Now don't you get caught out battery wise, if required recharge the battery, long low and slow is best. Cheers.

Don't just go on raw error codes on something like this and also consider that other issues may be there causing or related to this problem (and unrelated). Start with the basics before moving on. You have dealt with the battery, you have checked the alternator. How long did you have the battery disconnected at change over, if not overnight then try that and turn your lights on and other electrics after disconnecting the battery to loose any stored electric (don't forget to turn them back off). Take the opportunity to give the battery a long low slow recharge. When you reconnect the battery check for stored error codes and wipe them before you start the car. Costs nothing but a little time and effort to try this so if it don't work you've lost very little and if it does well happy days. Have you checked all the new parts fitted are sealed as fitted. What is the service history, has the airfilter been checked/changed, air box and ducting cleaned inside. All hoses. pipes and ducting connected and sealed, no splits in any or connectors. No leaks or blows on intake and exhaust hoses, pipes gaskets. Any damage or restriction to the exhaust Are all the electric cables and connectors to the sensors and back to computers are in good condition, sealed connections without fur on the pins inside, cables all insulated and secured to car. The MAF on my wife's car has reinforced holes for screw but is just a push (IIRC) click fit.

1 - Yes that could be, or if the expansion tank is plastic could it perhaps have a slight split on a seam or at threads for cap. 2 - It is possible that the three switches could be bad but doubtful. It depends on the location of the switch as to the temperature range required, better to kick in sooner than later in a hot climate. There might be air in the system at the location point of the switch in which case this could alter how and which switch operates. Have you checked that you have not left any cloths or paper in the cooling system from protecting openings from debris getting in 3 - Inexpensive leak tester kits will give a good idea of gases in the coolant - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124318737523 or https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124392170566 HTH.

At the time I thought you could have put an arrow to it - but I'm much too polite to ever mention such a thing. 😉

Joob, arse kicking time for you then. Given this improvement you now might be more encouraged to look at (change) the air filter, and perhaps clean the inside of the air filter box and inside any trunking and inside any hoses for vacuum etc.. Much of servicing, maintenance and repairs just boils down to cleaning and lubricating, not sexy stuff I know but very necessary and something a master mechanic would start with which is part of the reason they get to that level. Even with the computer electronics now much is electronically cleaning off error codes that don't relate to current running. Next I will want to see a photo of that butterfly fully open so that I can see it's totally clean on the rear side and shaft and body. And next your boots or trainers 🤣

AS IF !!!! - As if VW* would do anything like that !! Wash your typing digit(s)! * or any other car manufacturer 😄

I hope attached remains readable, and simple (like me). ETA: updated again for grammar, I think. CarBatteryInformation.pdf

Provided the garage hasn't pulled a fast one with the readings, that's a matter of trust, that paper slip battery health bar says it all (subject to the battery having been charged correctly and test applied correctly and tester accuracy - all a matter of trust here too). Depends how deep you want the explanation to (not that I'm an expert) but if you look at the rating figure of 640 EN (A), this is the battery was stated as 640 CCA (cold cranking amps) new, that's its muscle power to turn the engine over from 'cold'. Through wear, tear and age, just like most of use, the battery loses some of that muscle power. The ticket shows the battery now at 378 (59% of its original stated power) which is too low for what the battery may reasonably be expected to cope with in use and be reliable. It would still possibly be good on a smaller demand but also the ticket shows that after recharging (hopefully fully recharged) the battery now has 12.49v where as a fully recharged battery (keeping it simple) is 12.7v or 12.8v so this battery is always under before it even starts to get used. Your start/stop car and its very invasive computer programs would not have been happy with your old battery as the longer nights and colder weather and heavier demands on the battery increase during winter. You have avoided becoming part of the statistic of the number one cause of breakdown call outs (with AA at least), they call battery faults but are really mostly driver/owner faults. -https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes I expect to see a lot of problems with these modern cars now that many will not realise are sometimes caused by the car battery needing charging, or perhaps even changing. If you are interested see attached. ETA: I'll post this later as it's over simplified.

Not really that's, er, I've no idea of correct term so I will say initial installation (perhaps initialising, a sort of coding perhaps). Anyone under the age of 30 look away now - on my wife's previous car I would almost always resynchronise the keyfob the few times I used the car as I would (shock, horror) use the keyblade in the driver's door (permanently) exposed key lock rather than using the remote, my wife always used the remote and often not when close to the car.

That does seem a very long time but perhaps you unlike my wife use the remote near the car and it is a good quality battery. Some think a all batteries are the same (like all oils are the same and all beers are the same!!??!) and think the sheet of 100 batteries for a £1 are just as good (and who knows sometimes some just might be good). As above alternating use with the "spare" also helps.

That's a basic first, and install them correctly and fully, my wife had a a remote keyfob that had had the battery changed at a Dealership service and become difficult to use I "repaired" it by just pushing the battery fully home, then as I always do I resynchronised the remote to the car. Have you tried using the other remote? I recommend alternating the use of remote keyfob and blade keys as this means you know where the "spare" remote or key is and that it work, it also evens out the wear on remote keyfobs, key blades, key locks and batteries. If you let the remote keyfob battery go too low you will also be pressing the buttons harder and more times so also wearing out the remote keyfob quicker. If you don't know what a car door key blade is ask yer dad 😁 - and read the Owner's Manual about possibly using the key blade and resynchronising.