nta16

GL-4 and GL-5 are just oil classifications. GL-5 came after GL-4, some GL-5 oils are not recommended for use in some or all applications that specify a GL-4. Some out of date and misinformed people still believe ALL GL-5 gear oil can not be used in ALL GL-4 specified gearboxes, they usually say GL-5 will "damage the yellow metals" which is why some GL-5 gear oils will specifically state something like 'will not damage yellow metals'. Most good quality modern GL-5 gear oils are fine to use with GL-4 specified gearboxes but the manufacturer might not state this as they can not test their oil in all gearboxes going back 60 years or more especially when the gearbox might be that age and have faults in them that might wrongly blame the new oil instead of the old box, it is not worth it for the minuscule sales potential. Plus the oil blenders can produce a cheaper grade oil and charge a lot more for it by marketing it as a 'classic' vehicle oil. Amsoil and Redline would do suitable high level gear oil too, and of course what I use in my gearbox and rear axle, a British/English oil blender company, to keep things local, Millers CRX 75w90 NT+. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/crx-75w90-nt-2/

Not so, where's the hotelier to answer this(?). (Scottish?) law says that if you're 16 accompanied by an adult, you can drink beer, wine or cider if you're out eating a meal at a restaurant or other licensed premises. At home or on other private premises it's not illegal for a child aged 5 to 17 to drink alcohol, it is against the law to give alcohol to children under 5. It is better that those parents that want to teach their offspring controlled sensible, responsible social drink habits rather than a 18 year old, or older, starts drinking alcohol legally having no real experience before. It used to be that you might grow up near a local pub where as a youngster you'd have to behave yourself and no getting ****ed and/or getting into fights - unless you lived in a very rough area.

My pet subject - car battery will start the car and lights seem bright enough but the car's computers don't like the battery so low. 8 hours at fast charge might have been too higher charge at too fast, for a deep recharge you want a long slow low recharge especially if the battery was still on the car and the battery had a long, slow discharge. As Wino has put recharge your battery again, preferably off the car at a low slow rate for as long as possible. If your charger has a 'recondition mode' or similarly named use that but it might take a long time with even the battery off the car and longer if the battery is still connected to the car as the computers are still doing loads of stuff even with the car parked up and then there's the alarm and immobiliser and power for all the bits that hold data, radio stations, etc.. The modern fashion for instant charging doesn't always work well, certainly don't use a booster type charger. I do not know Carista but the lower level scan tools or their programs don't seem to wide codes well and even when they do they seem to remain as history in te car until a higher level scan tool is used. Get the battery properly and fully charged, clear the codes, drive the car for a few day and check for codes again.

Yes but it's actually a GL-5, your GL-4 confused me, and I am easily confused. The term synthetic gets confusing but however a good oil is marketed it remains a good oil. The Motul Gear 300 75w-90 should be a top oil and should give top level performance. With the Motul Gear 300 75w-90 you are using a gear oil far, far, above most cars on the road let alone a 21 year-old car if you have problems with it it is going to be a problem with the gearbox not the oil. Most people would say you are wasting your money using such oil in such a vehicle and for road use, not me as I use "classic car" modern race oils (Millers) in my engine, gearbox and rear axle as I want the extra protection even though my car is only for road use. Like all other oil blenders Motul have a range of different oils so one Motul engine, or other, oil is different to another so it depends which Motul engine oil you used but generally you might find you can hear more engine with one engine oil than another but that does not mean the engine is not better protected, this depends on the oil used but if you prefer an Amsoil engine oil that is fine as they also make good oils and well above the vast majority of any of the cars around you unless you are at a racetrack or expensive car enthusiast meeting. Using such oils would help when you got your overheating problem as they offer better protection and for longer.

Warrior193, did you resynchronise the keyfob? It's very simple, directions in the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual). Personally I have little faith in digital multi-meters, especially if over 12 months old, unless they are higher priced, cheap ones generally are a waste of materials and resources there ought to be a law against such products being made. I always suggest (but didn't above?) resynchronising the remote keyfob when changing its battery - and resynchronise both remote keyfobs when changing the car battery where it instructed or not. I also recommend alternating the use of both remote keyfobs in some way that way there is even wear of the batteries, key blades and key locks (perhaps just ignition) plus it means you know where "the spare" key is and that it works.

Hey, my glass house is only a frame now, and your brakes might be broken. 😄 Good idea about the brake lights and I was going to ask if anyone else drives the car and has the problem (in case you're the cause) but with an interment problem Sod's Law it doesn't happen when you want it to, such as when someone is there to watch the brake lights or when it was in at your garage. A proper scan tool should hopefully pick up the previous occasions. God luck.

In that case you are using a good oil already. All but the last gauge are mechanical, as well as analogue, but if you are sorted that is fine, I was thinking you might be worrying about exact figures on gauges and within a too strict range of temperature but you seem very keen on figures and probably have accurate gauges, with much older cars you get used to some gauges being not so accurate and just go by the needles being where they normal are on the gauge rather than markings. Is that the Gear 300 anyway or am I missing something, but if you are satisfied then that is fine. - I have been preaching to the converted. 😄

Yes a Skoda Deaalership should have the correct VW/Skoda scan tool but ask them first and ask how much just to plug it in and if they'd take that off the bill if you have the work done there. I think I've seen £60 mentioned to plug in the scan tool but that might be without (£12) VAT. I'm throwing stones from a glass house now as I have loads of spelling mistakes including sometimes yours, it's brakes. 😊

D.FYLAKTOS now you have found the benefit of good oil in the engine you might appreciate more my suggesting good oil in the gearbox transmission. Often it's thought that any old oil will do in the gearbox and that it lasts for years (or decades for some) but the additives and oil do wear and quicker than many realise. Felicia changes may be at 60,000 km. Changing the oil can have a noticeable difference to the gear shifting and will generally help with protection. If the existing oil is very old then possibly a cleaning flush with a cheap standard oil for say 80km might also help. If your gearbox is very worn then a standard 75w-90 would help with the hot weather but if the wear isn't bad then a better 75w-90 would give improvements in use and protection. A hot and long drain will get out more of the old oil and any contaminants in it meaning more new fresh oil goes in with less dilution from the old oil. You can look at the condition of the old oil and any bits in it to help assess the possible condition of the gearbox. Looking on this site I see the capacity is 2.4l which is a bit of a pain as it means if you do a good job of draining you will need three 1 litre bottles but at least this means you have some for top ups if required or to pour some warmed at the end of the draining as a mini flush. You also need to allow for new sealing washer(s). If your gearbox is in reasonably good condition then as you know Motul their Gear 300 75W-90 would be a very good priced top level oil, do no worry about the fact it has racing use that just means it is hard wearing, and it might quieten your gearbox a bit which you would like. -https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/GEAR_300_75W-90_en_FR_motul_34200_20211021.pdf There are others, but as one alternative Millers TRX Synth 75w90 . - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/TRX-Synth-75w90.pdf

ETA: Wot about, a bit of muck, or other, on a wheel, brake or other sensor with x-degrees of chance of parking with it aligned so internment? My wife got told off for braking on a hill decent on an off-road experience, stupid BMW X5 got a bit of mud on a sensor that applied the brakes, on a supposedly off-road vehicle, the Instructor later apologised to my wife as she insisted she didn't touch the brakes. She wanted to go out in a proper Land Rover anyway so a double disappointment to the event.

I didn't mean you had left the handbrake on rather if you released the gearlever button too soon and/or lifting off the brake pedal too soon. AFAIK if there is an error code or codes it will be recorded and held until cleared and even then some scan tools don't seem to clear all the codes and they remain as historic codes. I was also thinking along the lines of the other two posters and as Ken will know a lot more than me I'll leave it with him and perhaps Nik.

No you put "former", I didn't reply well, the lack of alcohol has gotten to me. 🙃 Cheers. What was fault code p0130 anyway . . . no, I'm only joking, it's sorted it's dun. Cheers.

I think that's just the starter spinning down.

If a drink needs something adding then it's not good enough in itself, if you want or prefer to add anything that's a different matter, personally I find the ale I have good enough to drink neat . 😊 No amount of lemonade or water would ever make a wine drinkable for me, I can just not get along with it, some whiskeys I might manage a few sips to be polite but that's all and I'd have it neat or with a little water if insisted on, be a boring world if we were all the same. I don't want to give the impression I don't sometimes have too much but not to any silly or anti-social levels (well no more than when I'm cold sober anyway) and for a good few decades it's been about once every 10 years I've had too much and regret it - but that must be about overdue now. I'm lucky because I can't stand Xmas or New Year's celebrations so avoid that drinking stupidity and the results of it.

Heavy drinking often involves violence and I'd never have kept my charm and looks (and modesty) if I hadn't avoided those people.

I think with my posts it'd be very difficult to tell if I've been affected, especially if I do a quick post without multiply edits. I often have difficulties with reading off screens and speeling stone cold sober and I go to our 'local' micropub twice a week early evening and leave early evening so my late evening ramblings, or other times, are just my usual state of mind. When I was about 14 a friend of a friend was an acholic died whilst sleeping by choking on his own vomit so I think that was enough of a warning at a young enough age. I'm not a big drinker, just a real ale coniseer conissir snob, well that's what I'm told because prefer a good ale, well kept and well served. Good on you for not drinking and anyone else that wants to or needs to, a lot of youngsters are non-acholic and are well catered for in the big cities I'm told (I don't even like small towns so would know). Decades back I gave up drinking for a week at Xmas and week rolled into 15 months just for the sake of it but I was too popular - as a chauffer and the silly no-alcohol bottled beer (lager?) tasted awful and small two bottles of it gave me a splitting headache worse than if I'd drank too much as a teenager. During those 15 months I easily adapted and didn't miss the ales (but there went as many good brews and the variety of them back then). Same as if needed I could easily become vegetarian tonight, any veggie curry, particularly potatoes, and any sort of curry even English 70s sugar fruit curries with very little spice or curry flavour as change is as good as a rest. 😁 There, a short and precise post!

Jennoskoda, you would know if it the handbrake left on as you would get a warning on the dash and some sort of warning sound, have a look at your Owner's Manual for details. The lock button on the gear lever is pressed and held as you select gear, then you let go of that button and lift the brake pedal and accelerate - could it be that you are releasing that button too soon and/or lifting off the brake pedal too soon? Otherwise it might be a fault in that button or one of the computer programs related to it which may need a scan tool suited to VW/Skoda to see a recoded error - or it might be something else of course, a proper scan tool suited to VW/Skoda ought to find an error code, if recorded and it sounds like there should be.

Fair enough stick with 10w40 but as I put before do not worry too much about the marketing titles of "semi-synthetic" or "synthetic". As you like extra protection you should go for a full "synthetic" as even "synthetics" (that are not synthetics) cope with the heat better and for longer (as well as the cold better and for longer). You could try the likes of Castrol MAGNATEC 10W-40 A3/B4 or the very well priced Millers Millers Oils EE Performance 10w-40, both cover VW 501 01 or VW 500 00. PDF below or here. - https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/millersoils/7708-EE-PERFORMANCE-10w40.pdf You have learnt the importance of a good correct oil and know others are wrong when they put "an oil is just an oil they are all the same". Regular and timely thorough (hot and long drain) oil and filter changes help to keep the engine and oil in good condition. If your coolant (/heating) system has been thoroughly clean, the coolant changed in a timely fashion and all the systems components are working properly then even if the needle goes high the engine will not go boom. It also depends on how accurate the gauge(s) are too, in the past the gauges were not marked with numbers to save the worry, in older cars the needles can go off the top of the range and still be fine and more modern cars do not even have a gauge. You can smell when coolant vents off. 7708-EE-PERFORMANCE-10w40.pdf

Whooosh, over the head, sorry, in that case please carry on as far as I'm concerned, a very second millennium Carry On remark you made though. Whenever I put one-line or short replies they always seem to be read as aggressive when I don't mean them to be, hence the windbag explanations. I done well there, just a two sentence post . . . doh!

sepulchrave this is one of the problems of the hit & run method of posting, you miss things. - True but the topic was completed a while back and even the OP has contributed a little to the end drift.

sepulchrave, I appreciate what you've put (had to look up TLDR tho', and knew the news before the newsflash). AFAICS this isn't a site where fast questions and instant answer are always the norm, and I do realise some view on small screens but there's nothing wrong with different approaches and different views, opinions, methods and experience. Those that don't want my long-winded more comprehensive ways do, can and will ignore them. I'm sure we can agree to disagree with good humour, and even possibly now and again agree, no doubt see you round the block again in the future as I think like me you might have been round a good few times. Cheers. 👍

Yes they can give you a paper print-out (or possibly something electronic, PDF(?)). Or you can look up and join erWIN (Skoda). Only what has been added by Dealers, garages (and owners) will be on there so all other paper records for parts and work you need to keep yourself.

Yes Covid epidemic has and will continue to effect many people in many ways. I didn't think these were the reasons, more reasons not to go there as far as I'm concerned. Uhmmmm, is this one of the reasons you get so tetchy at times. 😁 Not seen you tetchy (yet?). 😁 (Gentlemen, I am only joking.)

Er, far from it, see my post, the engine is one of the least important things on a vehicle.

As long as they're done thoroughly - but you've concentrated on the relatively unimportant engine. Priority should be on brakes, steering, suspension, wheels (and all include tyres), essential electrics (lights, wipers/washers, horn, etc., - so also battery condition and charge), seatbelts /safety fittings and glass areas (windows ,mirrors, washers/wipes), reflective number plates (part of see and been seen). For thermostats, if they are plastic or plastic housing you might want to change them but if you do a thorough cleaning (dare I put cleaner) or change of coolant and the thermostat are separate and metal they you may want to stay with them. I don't know how much with your system you can clean it and flush, back-flush and flush, don't forget to open the heater fully before starting. For the engine add check/clean all sensors and check exhaust - and included in all spannering-up all fittings and lubricating locks and hinges as required. That's all I can think of. A petrol V6 engine is fine but two short of a proper engine of course. 😉