nta16

Yes, probably and rough running. Basically the problem potentially could be from the battery all the way through to the engine and anywhere in between but your scanner has pointed to number 4 coil as the end point of fault, not necessarily point of fault but it could be, it could be as simple as something isn't push home properly or the coil is faulty which is why I suggested swapping it around. The thing is if the problem is intermittent then you have to wait for it or try to provoke it. The engine is VW the cheating computer programs are VW, there's lots of VW on the Fabia, look at any parts and see if it has VW or Skoda on it. I don't understand, why are you paying a garage for their expertise and then not trusting them to know what they're doing, they'll ignore what you say anyway which is partly correct as they need to establish the actual fault and remedy themselves. Unless there are codes or signs of misfire I don't see why a plug would need replacing. A proper scanner with someone that knows how to do diagnostics properly should make this an easy job - or I'm misunderstanding these machines which is possible. The machine you have is very entry level the full machines do so much it should be a lot easier with them, my neighbour's scanner showed 638 lines for the engine on my wife's Fabia and that's not a pro machine.

I hope you said that was because of your wife's good driving techniques! 🙂

Different to my understanding of it, you can get codes without any warning lights, whistles or bells, you can get codes when there's not really any problem other than the computer programs and they can be recorded. By historical I only mean not as live data, like back in time watching a VCR recording rather than the live telly transmission. For your code, a quick look on our American master's search machine (also answers your previous question) - P2309 – VOLKSWAGEN Code : P2309 Marque : VOLKSWAGEN Description : P2309 VOLKSWAGEN Ignition Coil 4 Primary Control Circuit Low Causes possibles : * Faulty Ignition Coil 4 * Ignition Coil 4 harness is open or shorted * Ignition Coil 4 circuit poor electrical connection https://www.cardiag.me/en/obd2-en/p2309-volkswagen/ BTW on a reset on older cars previous setting like throttle position are lost but I think ours at 2015/16 might hold the settings but I could be wrong, very often am, I didn't notice any change on my wife's car but perhaps there was. If things are totally reset then perhaps initially some things might not improve immediately until the settings are re-established. I drove my wife's Fabia yesterday, cold morning start, high idle and rough feel to it so I wait about 10-20 seconds for idle to drop and smooth out, in this time I don't load the engine with putting anything electrical on (the DRL are on by strict order from the boss). The engine bay often has odd sounds I just ignore them now as I think it's just the computers interfering (probably fiddling the emissions and mpg figures).

Perhaps I'm wrong but my understanding is that the codes are stored, but your machine might not see them. What new code did you get, and bear in mind sometimes the codes mean very little in themselves and/or can relate direct to other codes.

Nickj633, there are various devices you can use as memory savers have a look on t'web for your choice, just for the radio memory there's little battery ones Google can't find for me at the moment or you can plug into the OBD port and save all settings using another power source. I like the idea of a complete wipe clear of all the other systems (saving except for the radio if you've lost the code) myself as the computers often get themselves mixed up and need rebooting, I know where I'd reboot them. ETA: Apologies , I made a right idiot of myself (again) there, trying to find on another page the battery memory saver thingies that use AA sized batteries and what to call it for Google to find, doing two things at once and failing at both. Sorry about me contaminating with confusion.

The solution above isn't about the battery (although a new battery is still just a store so can still be depleted new or not) it's about the over-complicated (VW) computer programs that are very invasive and intertwined confusing themselves, no different to the other fabulous computers that surround us all. Your car your decision, if it don't work what have you lost if it does happy days and no garage costs, and you might find other improvements if the computers have had their panties in a twist. My neighbour and I saved another neighbour £174 (plus VAT?) Merc diagnostics (plugging a scanner in) for "transmission faults" just by doing a throttle reset and him using his scanner to clear stored error codes, all done from the comfort of inside the car and we certainly didn't strain ourselves or get our hands dirty. The visit to the Merc Dealership "the only people who can recode the transmission new parts" was cancelled.

I'm sure I'd have already put about the car battery needing a good level of charge but I can't remember if we've been through the following but I forgot to mention it on a thread and Sod's Law it solved the problem. It's only the old computer 'turn it odd 'n' on agin' (with extra discharge) but it's free, quite quick and easy to do, I only had to reset the time of day clock when I took the battery off overnight. And it's a mechanic on a video so carries more weight than just me posting it. I'd sooner he cleaned the battery post clamps too though. A lot of people dismiss the simple stuff just because it's too simple but if it works who cares about the sexy complicated solutions.

No - but you'd think so, try moving coil 4 to 1 and that will cover both ends and see if the fault moves, It also gives you a chance to inspect and clean the connector pins, plug sockets on the two you swap around.

Well done on sorting it. It's ironic as I usual put about doing a computer 'turn it-off-'n'-on-agin' by battery disconnect and discharge of stored electric but Sod's Law the one time I don't it'd have worked. With this time of year I've been trying to promote how important the battery is especially on these VWs with their over-complicated and very invasive and intertwined computer programs that can throw up all sorts of wobblies if the car battery gets too low for them even if the car does start and the lights seem bright enough. Many find the idea of a low battery causing all the problems very hard and take a lot of convincing or just don't believe it. Problem is with complicated issues many want the sexy complicated, sometimes 'look how clever I am' and sexy solutions rather than the really clever simple , quick, no or low cost solutions and they can't believe how dumb the computers are and the computers get so confused and messed up. The video's not bad, he could have cleaned the battery post clamps a little though, crud grit was dropping off one at least but I might use that video as previous ones I didn't save. Cheers.

The idea of banging on the dash top is more humour to me - but who knows. 😄

Up to you either check the battery's state of charge or don't, everything you've mentioned includes battery power, or lack of as may be the case. Or you got an electrical fault - you've been given two suggestions already here's a third loose or bad battery terminal, cable, wire, earth wire/cable or connection or other electrical or computer connection wire/ cable. If the battery gets too low it may still be able to start the car and the lights might seem bright enough but it can still be too low for the computers and they will throw all sorts of wobblies, their programs are invasive and intertwined. Not much cost or effort to check the battery or recharge it - even if it's not the battery a low battery will hinder sorting starting and electrical issues whereas a fully charged battery will help with finding starting and electrical issues.

Thanks for reporting. I think I've read on this site that there was a software update to overcome the car getting the screaming abdabs and going into panic mode if the a brake light area showed a fault. VW and Skoda not quite as clever at programming as they thought, but they did (almost) perfect it for later shenanigans.

You could also check that your car battery isn't low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, now is a very good time to check anyway as the days get shorter and colder and your electric use with increase and battery charging possibly decrease. Take any error codes generally as pointers only and there can be many faults that won't give an error code or soon enough but at £15 if it gives any codes it's better than not knowing.

By the look of that you might be safer with your head under the bonnet! No car is worth that to me. I see you have five lots of tools and materials, I find if I only want to undo a nut, bolt or fixing I usually end up with at least five tools boxes out and even then I never quite have the most convenient tool for the job. I see you have a car with a dark interior too, I find whenever I'm trying to do something it is always on something black against a black background and particularly when lying with my head in a footwell and looking up I can't see because of contrast of the daylight of the sky. We live at the top of a rise so it can get very windy blowing grit into my face or tools and materials roll away wind powered and it is not good to have the bonnet up. The only good days are dry and calm in which case I should be out driving or doing anything else rather than farting about working on a car - and so should you. 🙂 Very tidy car you have, those front door windows tints would probably be too dark (illegal) here.

From reading about someone else with that scan tool they seem to be very low level (reader) so may miss stuff but also there can be many faults the dumb computer programs won't give error codes for and the error codes can be very raw data so just pointers. I think you done all I can think of, other than checking the car battery is very well charged. Now that sounds reasonable, wire or connector perhaps but that should show up on a reasonable scan tool if so, perhaps as a communication error. A (much) higher level scan tool and you could detect and activate parts to check they're working to perhaps isolate the fault. If work has been done or new parts fitted they're always suspects to me. If you lived near Northampton my neighbour could try his higher level scan tool, it had 638 lines for the engine in my wife's Fabia alone.

Hi, welcome. Have a look in your Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) you may need to resynchronise the keyfob after changing the battery (I always do regardless). Check the keyfob battery is fully fitted correctly, that the battery is of the correct type (number) and is a good quality battery as cheap ones wear quicker and can play up. For the boot check to see if it's anything you can select in one of the car's menu, on the car or look in the book, we don't have KESSY so I'm not familiar with it.

Wooohooo! Well done. Your free membership to this site has served you very well, I'd suggest you stick around and get more great advice. Here's mine, these cars have very invasive computer programs, if the car battery charge gets low even if perhaps the car still starts and the lights seem bright enough, the car battery can still be too low for the computers and their programs and they may start to throw wobblies and play up in all sorts of ways. So keep the car battery charge level from going low, if needed get an appropriate battery charger (trickle better than fast) or you might see Xmas lights on your dash away from Xmas. Good luck, thanks for reporting back.

The one for where it possibly wasn't (but might also have been) the turbo is this one. -

I think below is it, note new battery needs to be coded-in to car (brilliant VW idea for its computer program(s) to operate) or it takes a while for the dumb computers to cotton on to the improvement in the battery if it's not coded, if battery type is changed (EFB/AGM) that will need coding (I think, who knows with VW's (sometimes) secret programming).

I didn't realise that XTOOL 401 is still a low level scan tool. Everything seems to be about the rear left TPMS and ABS so I'd remove that wheel and see if the wiring or connector(s) to any sensor(s) there are clean, secure and fully protected electrically and mechanically. I'd soft brush off and mud/crud/crap, then if require wire brush off any rust. Then if you have a vacuum cleaner that also blows that can be useful with careful use, use as suction first to clear what you can. Check inside any electrical connectors if they look susceptible or you're not sure. Clean the plugs, pins and sockets with electrical contact cleaner spray and if you want coat the pins with your protectant of choice. Also check your tyre pressures and reset the TPMS if required. All easy cheap work if you have the time. Worry about clearing the error codes once you have the car checked and running well (you could even try again with either scanner if they have the required VAG programs).

I know how you feel, at least I have a hardstanding to work from and no longer really ned the car so if it starts to rain I either don't start or pack up. Sometimes the rain has stopped before I can get all the tools out of the rain but I still call it a day, life's far, far too short to mess about with cars that much.

Sorry, both, I wasn't disbelieving anyone, I'm not sure what I meant to put, I meant I wasn't sure about what the garage said, typo/editing error. I meant the Northampton Dealership asked the same to either get more work or it's something the bookings/collection person is told to say - yeah so just looking for more work really, to confirm that Warrior193's garage wasn't alone in this practice.

try posting in the following thread. -

You seem to do more difficult tasks but fair enough I do not blame you, cars are very dirty and unrewarding to work on. If I could afford to pay others and trust them to do a reasonable, not even good, job I would and sometimes do. My mechanical work is not of particularly good quality but still often better than some of the professional mechanics and 'specialist experts' I have previously employed.

Yeah it's just a section heading on your machine.