nta16

Well J.R. ,the easily offended and to offend, 😉 I'm joking I'm not easily offend and surprised you are (well a bit surprised, well perhaps not over surprised) I looked in the Driver's Handbook as promised, see below, I guess it's to take the tension off the locking wheel bolts (bolts, stupid idea) and they may not have the best sound justifications for putting such but there it is.

Sorry Ken I was thinking of another thread but if it wasn't you fair enough.

Check in your Owner's Manual (Driver's Handbook) but 120Nm is the same as my wife's Fabia Mk3, which surprised me as I was expecting 110Nm. 120Nm is 88 ft lb in old money. Obviously you need to know that your normal torque wrench is reasonable accurate before comparing the new digital. Something to bear in mind according to the Owners' Manual the locking wheel bolts are loosen first and tighten last, I put opposite them opposite the tyre valve to remind me where they are.

Had you perhaps pressed the interior alarm disarm button on the B post by accident? See Owner's Manual (Driver's Handbook) page 55 for more details. Is it working now?

Sounds like it's the glow plugs, pre-heating, warning light but a few basics first (others may jump straight into glow plugs and that might be it but you need more checking first). Good info with your model (vRS and GTi and you're on a speed awareness course, is it you or I stereotype matching) but if you could add the year or model (MY) of your car to your details it could help in future. Does your Autel Maxi, cover Skoda (VW) to read from? Did it show a yellow or read on the lights below its screen? Did you connect it to your computer for updates before using? If you can use it view freeze frame is useful for fault info. Now to your issue, I think the glow coils light flashes if it's going in Limp mode but the engine emissions light coming on too would I think put you into Limp mode. Is your car battery fully charged? Is your car fully serviced and maintained (not just engine but in this yes the engine) oil & filter, air filter, fuel filter? Hope your course went well and you learnt from it, I can not throw the first stone as I got my first speeding ticket in 1985 in my first Skoda when it was an English national sport to take the mickey out of Skodas, a mate said "the Police didn't take the reg but the chassis number as I sped by", which I thought was a very good joke.

A quick look on Google (if you can trust the answers) I've found stuff relating to Fords! What problems do you actually have with the car, if none drive safely and under speed limits to your course. "7E8 this is not code but a menu for the engine data stream, you would also have a 7E9 and this is for the transmission. Different scan tool display engine powertrain, transmission powertrain and ABS system. These 3 are control module for the scan tool to read." What scan tool tells you this, sometimes (often) you get what you pay for. Whatever scan tool you never just take the raw error codes as the full diagnostics you check further. https://obdeleven.com/en/module/xipblog/single?page_type=post&id=31&rewrite=trouble-codes

Generalisations now - the thing is when you own something like a Honda you have no idea how good it is unless you have something to compare it with. But the Honda Jazz you could buy in 2019 probably wouldn't be as trouble free as your 2003 model because of the many electronic and parts 'improvements'. Then you have to compare the 2019 new price of the Fabia to the Jazz. Put up a thread about the start/stop issues as that might be a simple fix, being a Honda owner you're probably only used to servicing and "issues".

Sorry no idea about the quality of the wheel bolts but - "bilstein group Engineering . . . parts for the product brands febi, SWAG and Blue Print" bit like WD-40 Company is GT85 and 3-in-One.

TBH it's something I've read a few times on tyre selling sites but it could be part of the new tyres don't always go to the front sort of thing, I stick with it more as a system to remind me of order, I assumed it was something to do with the head pattern but perhaps the locking-bolts might even be stronger, I'm happy to learn from you and others. Also - I've got a feeling you (or was it Ken, purple circle anyway) put this was so - I'll check the handbook and if it's not in there I'll delete my references to it anyway as I always go by the book.

If they weren't to German engineering quality specification then they wouldn't be on the car - unless it was a replacement outside of the German engineering specification or has been abused beyond expected, er, expectations, standards. Have a look under the bonnet of German cars (which you personally can do and confirm) for all the plastic bits that were once made of metal. Cars whilst costing tens of thousands of Euros have some part costed in cents or decimal place(s)? of. I've always been suspect of the (stupid) wheel bolts, their holes in the bolt head have me wondering. I'd be interested to see the quality testing of items such as wheel bolts and wonder if it might be suppliers responsibility with perhaps the odd random test somewhere. All vehicles have faults, some more than others, as there are always compromises to be made for many reasons, I've had mainly British vehicles so know all about those with more faults.

ETA: two posts whilst I was typing this one (normal for me) Is 120Nm as per book, and is your torque wrench reasonably accurate. I recent bought a Halfords Advanced 17mm deep 6-sided socket (£6.50) as they'd sent me (another) £5 voucher (just for looking at their online site AFAIK) the deep socket gives me the clearance to use (my very simple and old Draper beam) torque bar. If you get a wheel brace best is to have the single handled type that extends and only ever tighten using it contracted, leaving the extended for loosening only. Something to bear in mind with the locking wheel nuts according to some of the Owner's Manuals is to loosen them first and tighten them last, I put them opposite the tyre valve to remind me. Also as well as the low quality wheel bolts on German vehicles I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One or two of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the bloody silly VW use of wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). German engineering quality is exaggerated, especially in more recent years, mind the bolts they use are probably sourced further east.

Yeah well you're too used to the absolute filth of a dirty diesel and there's possibly not only cross contamination from the dipstick or engine but also your hands, I think the Met would be looking to employ you for some of their cases.

On blowing the photo up it does look more like a dirty dipstick (you dirty devil). Keep the photo and compare it to a photo of the same in a month's time. If you'd put clean oil on that tissue and it was much, much lighter then that might have shown there was muck for the oil to catch so was doing it's job. Unless the oil looks really dirty on subsequent oil level checks I'd not worry but I'd change the oil and filter 6 months from when you last did it - plus it puts the servicing at a time of better weather. (forgot the blow up)

ETA: I'd just finished typing my post when I saw sepulchrave had posted his, so I had a look and not too surprising we have different views and in more than one meaning. 😄 Well the carbon had to go somewhere. 🤣 To me in that photo the oil does look to have dirt unless it's my eyes or the photo there appears to be smeared lines of black. The colour of the oil itself can only be compared with the same oil fresh out of the can on that tissue. How clean or not was the dipstick before you wiped it on the tissue? If previously the servicing (and that not just engine oil changes) wasn't done in a timely manner then after 9 years muck will build up, hence my consideration of perhaps using cleaning flushes on an engine you don't the know the history of (unless the engine has such high mileage you worry that it's only the muck preventing it leaking more). In the background your engine doesn't look bad but it's certainly not, for a while at least, been kept by a concours fanatic.

Well done. 👍 So it was the obvious, well to you and D.FYLAKTOS, myself and others thought the starter seemed OK by your videos. I had the feeling it would turn out to be something silly and obvious after all your work on everything else but not necessarily the starter especially after you had cleaned it. Well done to you for your persistence and patience and finding the cause. 👍 I am having the ale ready for tomorrow.

Great stuff, now you have it cleaner it's just a matter of keeping it that way. An occasion Italian tune-up is good for car and driver but these are 1.2 litre engines with a turbo so best done unloaded with just driver aboard as you don't want to overstress these engines (now someone will prove me wrong by saying they drive them pedal to floor all the time). If you're doing a lot of short journeys plenty of timely regular servicing and maintenance and perhaps the now and again use of a petrol with additional cleaner package (that'll upset some). And of course get used to the cleaner oil colouring of the petrol engine against the filthy diesel engine and its oil, but remember that carbon has to go somewhere it if not sitting on internal engine parts. 🤣

The article said about gearshift lights, if you don't get a dashboard error or gearshift lights then maybe yours has a different fault - but - these warning signs often come up when it's too late or giving false information, these computer programs are not as clever as the manufacturer makes out and some owners think (hence the need not to let the car battery go to a low state of charge). If you lived near I could get my neighbour to use his scan tool and then you would at least be pre-armed for what ever others say they find. Different scan tools go to different levels of information they can see and as to what they can do, you'd hope the Dealership have and use the full garage professional VW/Skoda level tool, that then needs interpreting correctly by an appropriately fully trained person.

Very good condition and well kept, from the days when such things were given with new cars - annoying and a lot less useful in the ether stuff now. So how are you now getting along with the car/combi/touring/shooting back, any knocking noises (ours makes lots of strange and very internment noises from the engine bay)?

Great stuff. What bit of paper is that then?

Just thought, you could have a search here for mechatronics problems or put up another thread with that in the title which will hopefully attract those that know about such things and perhaps those of a more technical nature, training or experience.

Now you know why. You'd hope that the Dealership will be doing a scan and other diagnostics as required (you never just go off raw error codes) and then contacting you with a quote. Do bear in mind the range of figures from the Nottingham company is only for the repair of the unit the Dealership will also have to add to it to cover for labour and any other parts and materials and possibly for warranty work if required against the unit. You need a quote. I've put the hyperlink so you can read the article, you could do further research, I've put to ring the Nottingham lot for advice and possible contacts and as it's very intermittent at the moment I might try a scan by someone who know how to interpret the information (that excludes me) and depending on those results a change of correct gearbox oils (but most would say the change of oils would be a waste of time and they might be right). Good luck.

Yes but there is a difference from this to your issue, your car didn't have a rough idle it had a high idle and only from starting from cold. The two things can have different causes but the checks would crossover depending on the cause so worth a look as long as you realise the difference in the issues.

Yes and it should start with a scan rather than surmising over the phone. It could be mechatronics (a bit that goes with your gearbox) in which case the Dealer may have rang a company that specialises in repairing theses units to see what they think as possibly the Dealer will be removing the unit from your car to send it to this company for repair. This means the unit has to be removed from your car sent off for repair elsewhere then refitted when returned, you need a quote for this work as it will not be a low cost job. There is a small possibility that a scan by someone who knows what they're doing could perhaps sort this other than the unit needing repair (my neighbour and I done this for another neighbour's Merc, but that isn't a VW and it was a different reported fault). Did you purchase the car new, have you checked for recalls? Some info only on website link, bear in mind price will be for repair only then plus 20% VAT, why not give these people a call for the free advice they offer plus they might know independent Skoda garages in your area. - "Prices start from as little as £850-£1300 + vat delivered to your door which can be up to 50% cheaper than main dealer prices from the likes of Audi, Volkswagen, Skoda and Seat. Call Slaters Garage today for a completely free guide on how to get this niggle or a repair made simple and cost effective today." https://www.gearboxnottingham.co.uk/dsg-mechatronic-units

Here I just want to give a few observations and tips, as a non-mechanic, from when I fitted the front brake pads and discs to my wife’s Fabia Mk3. The job is easy and easier than the few other front brake pads and discs replacements I've done. There are videos of the job being done online, some more thorough than others, so I won’t be going through a step-by-step explanation as I’d not be as good as the videos. Along with the usual tools you need a hex H7 (7mm) bar/tip, (ratchet) socket or 7mm large Allen key, none of which I had in any of my tool kits and a Torx T30 tip or screwdriver. Different from what some videos show it’s now recommended not to use copper grease but Ceratec on metal-to-metal contact areas (only) which is the pad ears and where the pad ears move on the caliper. The two slide pins on each calliper were a bit of a pain and took time to clean the crud off without scratching so next time I’d buy new pins and it wouldn’t slow the process. You do not use Ceratec on the caliper guide pins because they go into a rubber part, the pins either go back in dry or you can use Hydratec for rubber contact (I used red rubber grease as I have a tin of it that will last me a lifetime). The pads have clips of different size for caliper side and other side of piston and the ones I got had two of the four marked “piston side” so with them you can’t go wrong (but I did! I put two outer pads on the first caliper despite the markings). You could perhaps use GT85 spray on the caliper piston rubber seals, I forgot. - https://gt85.co.uk/ I had the loan of a caliper rewind tool but careful use of other more basic tools would have worked fine, do check that the brake fluid will not overfill or overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back. A Torx T30 tip or screwdriver is needed to remove the one screw on the discs. After brushing and cleaning the hub I put some Ceratec grease on the hub where it touches the brake disc as it does rust there a bit. That’s it for the brakes but associated tips for the wheels and their bolts. Some Owner's Manual have to always undo the lock bolts first and replace them last, I place them opposite the tyre valve as a reminder of tightening order and if they've been moved then the garage might have taken the wheel off. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One or two of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the silly VW use of wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes that's it thanks, scaffolding and hedge have gone in the 20+ years. I remembered three castles we went to Grosmont, Raglan and I wasn't sure if I had the right name of White Castle, but I had, but I'd also forgot we went to Skenfrith as well, all small ruins but fantastic to visit at that time of year, very atmospheric and the Czech car was ideal for the snow. It was on our 3 day honeymoon, in different B&Bs - but posh as we'd gone to a foreign country.