nta16

Looks to be, yes.

I shudder to think what bodily fluids are pink and greasy. 😬 It's not so much the fluid as what it might have flowed through and picked up on the way, but I'm all for building up the immune system generally. Used to be matrix coolant type leaks would put a slight opaque mist to the screen and perhaps smell if the heater was on but now with a/c perhaps not as noticeable. We've had cars with drainage issues and my wife's previous car in particular had unusual drainage route and a 'water ingress' issue that was commonly misunderstood and simple to prevent and sort once the correct information was known rather than the common misconception. I also know well how much water the soundproofing can hold and how long it take to fully dry it out and seen why you don't want to leave things to fester. Let us know how you get on.

Good job you didn't bet your house on it being the scuttle drains (joke for a (possible) viewer). Yeah I used to do things like taste tests but now I'm a lot more cautious, certainly I'm older and perhaps a little wiser.

Might be a bit big, but I don't know, and you wouldn't want it to get stuck or force any blockage to be more compacted. If you could unscrew the camera and union ends the flexi might be of some use after using thinner stuff, or to put a hook on one end. 🙂

Sounds like logiclee, if lucky, may only need to grab stuff from above the filter and a quick look on my wife's car I can see the blower wheel and fresh air flap fully open and you could get an adult arm, and half a tree trunk, down there without removing wiper arm, but if the wiper arm comes off easily then fine, note its position before removal. Personally I'd leave the present filter installed and get a vacuum cleaner hose or crevice tool in there to get out as much as possible first, I've no idea where the drain channel or tube goes after that. Always a good idea to check and clear the exist first but as I hurt my back removing the front wheel because of the stupid design of bolts instead of wheel studs do use two screw-in studs to take the weight of the wheel and locate it on removal and replacement. Once there's some reasonable clearance of blockage top and bottom I add small amounts of very warm water with a funnel and directing hose to loosen and transit any small muck, crud, grit, small debris and then poke around top and bottom again, more very warm water and so on until clear. Add small amounts of water each time and check it's exiting where it should overwise you're just topping up the spillage. Flexible semi-stiff pliable rods or wires with rounded-ends to save scratching and damage or rounded open ends to hook out blockage, anything to part the blockage and put holes through it without compacting it more or hook it out. Easier for me to do than describe! 😁

No sorry I don't and I might have given you a bum steer there as I can't find it only a valve (which I'd have thought would lead to a drain passage/tube(?)) perhaps forget that and cross that bridge if you come to it as I'd guess the exit is under the car too. Just seen run4mo's post and my guess would have been just r/h/s of centre width line of car but sheer guess that could well be wrong. Thinking about it you'd probably have to remove the wiper arm(s) to get the plastic cover off but there enough flex to get in there, employee a small child if need be. I've never cleared the drain channels on the Fabia as although it permanently sits outside it's rarely under trees, if it's like others I've done care, time and patience pays, doesn't have to be a lot of time or patience but not rush or Billy-big-*******s look how clever I am in how fast I can do this (not always very well or balls something up). If you can sort it and post photos we'll all know for future reference. Why these things are so top secret is always beyond me, should be in the Driver's Handbook. VAG are just so full of secrets! 😁

Lift the bonnet and pull away the rubber seal just in front of the plastic cover below the windscreen, I'm not sure how it fully comes off but that should give you enough room to at least see if there's blockage there. Also check the a/c drain in case it's blocked and leaves and debris aren't the cause or only cause. Let us know how you get on (and me how to fully remove the cover).

Don't over rely on a scan tool, use it as a pointer or tester if yours goes to such a level. Disconnecting and charging the battery is a good overall move even if it does solve your problem, you always want a well charged battery when chasing electrics (especially starting issues). I've been with my neighbour while he's been trying out a deeper level scan tool on cars from 2004 onwards and our 2015 Fabia came up with something like 179 things in one section, 638 for the engine and so on and two history fault codes I thought a OBD11 had cleared and IIRC one code I'd not seen before. My other neighbour's 205 Kia took a bit longer to scan but came up all green, no reds, but it only has 28,000 miles on it and probably simpler (bu possibly sturdier?) electronics, sensors, programs. Never just go on what one machine tells you. Let us know how you get on.

Sorry I was replying to ords. What about synchronising both fobs and battery disconnect? A good level of scan tool should be able to actuate just the boot to test it's working, even if there's not an error code showing.

Confirm manual mechanical operation, from boot side anyway, so not a completely jammed mechanical lock.

If you've not already - I'd always try resynchronising BOTH keyfobs as it only a matter of minutes of very easy work. Check there's nothing caught in either side of the catch, though I doubt it'd be that if it opens manually but again it's quick easy and free work so why not. Failing that it might be a case of getting a check with a scan tool or visit to Dealers but before that personally I'd try disconnecting the car battery overnight (and taking the opportunity to give it a long slow low recharge) and reinstall the next day as it's free and if nothing else helps the car battery a bit and gives the computers the old 'turnin' it off 'n' on agun'. Others may be along with other ideas. Whatever it is let us know the result so others can learn from it.

Check your Driver's Handbook and have a look at any menu settings where you might be able to change the locking or time or duration of the locking of the boot. A mate was telling me how after having to have a new hazard switch fitted (!) on his ultra reliable 18 year old Honda the window refused to go up and after checking the fuses someone suggested checking he hadn't pushed the window lock switch - he had, course he had, it's a Honda from 18 years ago, Honda mechanics and Technicians would at that time gather round any vehicle that came in for other than service work.

Well done on finding the rattle. It's good to know the problem was resolved and how, you could also say how you sorted the wipers on that thread that way others can learn from it, well done on sorting those too.

Whatever system and however it works it does need to be working fully and all parts, components, systems and programs all within their working tolerances (though I expect there might be some computer program work around, if there is, and it's working). Problems and issues are often because not everything is fully working and often can be combination or permutation of things being slightly, or more, out of whack giving more trouble combined than individually. It might be that the part(s) are fine but a sensor and/or the computer don't think so or playing up themselves and there's so much crosstalk a slight break in communications and the unwanted guest is sitting at the top table. I wonder if the spanner left in the engine bay, or whatever the cause of the OP, has been found yet?

Carry on like that and you might get a rattle from the engine itself. 😄 Engine mounts you can often hear at initial take off, worth checking as you know the sound. What gearbox do you have? What service work has been done on the whole car in it's 6 years? Did you get your wipers sorted?

In that case I too would use a SatNav with traffic info. What about using a separate portable SatNav device instead, a pain and expense I know but anything to ease the annoying buzzing noise, especially on top of such horrendous traffic. Let's hope someone posts that they had this problem but it just went away with time, like you put you can hope. Other than perhaps a change and/or upgrade of the unit, if that's possible, you could be chasing parts and electric supply wire(s) perhaps with no improvement on your unit, other than if some sort of noise cancelling if it's possible I'm fresh out of any ideas, sorry.

Yes in absolute ideal world circumstances with a properly built new car but I think a little optimistic with used vehicles, er, being used in the very varied circumstances that can exist. You must also allow for faults, faulty construction, wear, tear and abuse, that's of course without any programming errors or fixes (that can cause other unforeseen issues). When the battery is low but before being dead and Xmas tree displays things can still be off kilter but not enough and within the parameters of the programming not to throw a code - do not put all your faith in the computers and warning lights and messages, many of them turn up too late. A battery that is low will have the alternator working more and with start-stop often a lot of electrics could be running but not the engine. Also in a used vehicle you have to consider that the alternator is actually working well, in good health and without faults of it's own. A weak battery may also be on top of other issues within others systems and the straw that breaks the camel's back. All these things are ifs and buts but when there are issues, faults and problems sometimes they can be in the mix. For decades one of the top ten causes of breakdown call outs has ben batteries (and charging systems) until more recent years these would have been mainly caused by driver ignorance and/or neglect as it was rare to get a bad battery, to be fair some of the call-outs would have been for poorer build quality of new cars too. Now the electrical demand and complication of so many computers and their programming in the vehicles I'd have thought, I don't know as I've not seen any figures or researched it, but I expect these call-out have increased rather than diminished for various reasons. I'm used to very simple cars where if you look after the battery (and that takes very little effort or time) then it looks after you but that's without and any computer system (well except for the dissy). i'm sure we'll continue to disagree about the battery but that's fine, other viewers can pick whichever suits them.

You're probably not going to like this answer - if you're on a multi-hour trip that'll be over a long distance (or very bad traffic jams) for most of the trip at least, you could pre-plan by using a paper printed road atlas and road maps, it's what we used to do back in the last millennium. It has advantages of making you aware of the journey and route and possible alternatives, keeps you in touch with your travelling, surroundings and driving, no worries about battery life, screen reflections, backspots or loss of signal. I've used portable SatNavs back in the early days of waiting for the device to find 5 satellites (when it could) and no voice options and they are useful if you don't know where you're going in a complicated congested location but often they take you a longer route and can literally lead you to where you shouldn't go and you've no idea because you haven't mentally followed the route or planned the location because of the SatNav (or (T*atNav as old truckers call them) has done all your thinking. I've never owned a SatNav or car with one built-in and I used to travel a bit for work, photo of my guidance systems. -

Sorry I can't help but I do agree that it is very annoying, reminds me of tinnitus type sound so you could try the various types of recordings to cancel or reduce it's affect, but can you not just leave the unit switched off as much as possible until it's fixed. I wonder if these Swing Plus units perhaps are made up of lower quality parts and components and or the affects of the pandemic have further reduced the quality of parts, components and assembly. Or perhaps it's some kind of interference picked up from some other part of the car if for a couple minutes or hours in a month the noise stops, what is not operating at these times that is operating at all other times - but I think this is a lot less likely than it being just the unit itself. Hopefully other 2021 owners with Swing Plus will be able to tell you if they have that noise - or it might make them aware of it when they weren't before and drive them mad too.

. . . if only they'd been consecutive days. 🙃

Oh, no, that was a mistake! Always kick the car out . . . well at least first.* 😁 * I am totally joking, my wife has put up with me for 44 years so I totally know how good it is to have and value a life-partner - kids today just don't know how to suffer a long-term partnership. 😅

Sorry I couldn't help, I do think it could be so many possible things that it needs a full deep scan as things are so interlinked, brakes, transmission, engine, just about anything. If the car was under warranty you could perhaps demand a Skoda UK Technician (if such still exists) if the Dealership say they can find no codes and nothing wrong. Your photo should prevent any questioning of it being you or your wife misunderstanding what had happened. Good luck. ETA: It didn't happen whilst driving passed a G5 mast or E10 pump did it? 😉

This can be an issue with rely on error codes, sometimes the problem or issue isn't enough out of whack for the program's parameter - but if an error has shown I would have thought it ought to record but I'm not a VW computer program, you shouldn't need a photo of such things as proof of them happening, Some scan tools can only go so far or deep into these things, you'd hope the Dealership would have the full diagnostics and fully up to date but who knows, perhaps they only have one and only one person that really understands it and the one machine is stuck on another car and the person is away from work that understands it (? ! ! ?), otherwise why can't the Dealership give reports or let you see the person and machine in use. The VW systems are know to be very complicated - it has been proved that they are very sophisticated in operation, cough! I just think removing one lot of invasive programming might help but of course it still leaves plenty of others and it could be some silly minor part playing up or sensor, wires, connections (though you'd hope those'd throw up communication error codes). I'm ****ed-off about this as I can see our Fabia perhaps going this way and all more recent cars even worse, bad enough the PCs playing up intermittently after MS updates, the joy of not know which will play up after. Of course if you've been driving your car along a river that might upset those computers and wiring and connections. And if this only happens when your wife is driving the car then she'll have to go! 😁 Good luck, let us know how you get along

All battery connections (post, inside of battery post clamps) clean and in good condition and firmly fitted, battery firmly clamped, earth connection to body good? Yes disconnecting the start-stop connector will disable the function but not the car so you can give it a try but now you've seen an error message it should be there for a scan tool to find, perhaps along with others. The computers and programs on these cars are very (over?) complicated and very (over?) invasive. I lifted this about VW just to give an example, you really need a full list of the current error codes and someone who knows how to interpret or advance them. - ". . . the EPC sensor has given the computer information that caused the vehicle to be put into limp-in mode. Potential issues can include: Malfunctions with fuel metering, timing or emissions systems Engine speed sensor failure Problems with other sensors such as the crank or cam position sensor, mass airflow sensor, even the brake light switch Traction control problems Vehicle stability control problems Cruise control issues Throttle pedal issues".