nta16

Yes sorry my meaning was that the WD-40 Company sell loads of different greases and other lubricants, far too many of them, labelled as WD-40 Company, I might have some in the shed although I do tend to try to avoid these very invasive American companies if I can, they take over other brands to give the idea of choice, look at all the brands Coca-Cola and Mars own. I was also thinking it's a lot easier to give the pivot a quick light spray to see if the squeak goes or decreases so that you know you're actually getting to the squeak, and most of the grease sprays I've used require clearing of the overspray which isn't always easy to get at and even the dry grease can hold grit,/crud/fluff/muck. I find getting into footwells and getting my body, head and eyes to the right places can be difficult and regretful later so I do the very least I can now and quite honestly I'd leave the squeak a while and see if it went away by itself as they often can. But if whatever is used works that's all that matters, plenty of choice of lubricants thanks to our good friends at the WD-40 Company.

ETA: I should caution that obviously you don't want anything slippery spilling, dropping or otherwise getting on to the pedals that might end up on where your foot could slip off the pedal - hence the use of straw or brush and very small quantities of lubricant. Fair enough . . . but silicone grease is messy and you'd probably want to apply it with a small very cheap (set of) artist brush so it means even more contortions to see and apply to the pivot bush, a quick spray of GT85 with a straw is easier and faster and you have a can of penetrating, releasing and lubricating fluid that can be used for loads of other jobs on the car and around the home and garage. Whereas if you have to buy silicone grease it's not cheap and you might not use it on much else. A liquid spray may not last as long as grease - though that depends on what's causing the squeak, grease holds grit and fluff and liquid might wash those out. Also some may prefer to use GT85 with PTFE rather than silicone, it doesn't bother me, I've tried different stuff over the years and still prefer GT85, I used to use it on my pushbike back in the 80s before going back to cars after. WD-40 Company will indeed do quite a few different cans of stuff that could be used (why so many varieties are needed is a matter of sales). A choice of silicones below, you could brush on some silicone oil instead of grease. Halfords, Screwfix slap their name on the cans too.

I always find plastic connectors a right fiddle/difficult/awkward but watch others do it like picking a currant off the top of a bun. I don't think I had pull the locking piece too far back and I wouldn't go too far or take it out in case it drops into total obscurity or I put it somewhere and forget or loose it. If I remember (always doubtful) I'll check tomorrow and report back.

Yes, and just to confuse you more my car doesn't have the silly back breaking bolts it has four of the more sensible wheel studs and nuts that only torque to 45 ft/lb / 61 Nm. 😁 ETA: Well, actually, 44-46 ft/lb. 🙂

I think it's in the Driver's Handbook (Operating Instructions booklet) somewhere, Google has it at - Wheel torque steel:110 Nm / 81 ft-lb - Wheel torque alloy:110 Nm / 81 ft-lb. And our handbook has to tighten the locking wheelbolt last, not sure why, I always tighten in order of diagonally opposite in stages, so as there are five bolts on the Fabia wheel doing the locking bolt last saves a lot of maths and angles. I leave the wheel caps off until I've checked the wheel nut/bolt torque after 30 miles as a reminder to do so. I also put the locking bolt opposite the tyre valve which can sometimes mean that I possibly have an 80% chance of knowing if someone else has put the wheel back on, meaning they've taken it off.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It doesn't really matter when you read this as the battery and its condition and state of charge is always important especially with modern cars with all the electrical items and systems on them. But at time of writing the days are getting shorter and darker and colder so you will need the car battery to be in good condition and connection and in a good state of charge to get you through without what can be a lot of hassle and inconvenience if you let the battery get too low, or fail altogether. Letting the battery get too low can cause all sorts of problems and some of them very unexpected, many people will think that because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough that the battery must be fine and well charged but this might not be the case. Now is a good time to check your battery - that both battery terminal post clamps are tightly secure (and battery securely clamped to the car), that there's no spillage or mess on the top of the battery and that the battery has a good level of charge in it. You may want to consider an appropriate battery charger, not a very fast or booster charger though, to keep your battery well charged and not be caught out with low charge problems and/or your use of the car's electrical items especially when the engine , so alternator, aren't running . This may also perhaps save you being caught out and being one of the very many that need to call out the breakdown services because the battery is flat, the AA number one most common cause of breakdowns - Flat or faulty battery. The AA won't say this but I will, very rarely is it a faulty battery, a few might be charging system faults but the vast majority will be user error, ignorance or neglect. Remember prevention is better than cure. From AA website - 1. Flat or faulty battery Battery faults are the most common cause of breakdowns – especially in the winter. If you’ve got a problem with your battery, you might not be able to start your car. A car's battery powers the starter motor, and then the engine turns the alternator, which recharges the battery. Flat batteries are commonly caused by leaving the lights on when the engine's off. But there’s also a good chance battery problems will be down to lots of short journeys or a poor electrical connection. Batteries can go flat due to: Leaving your car unused for a while, or only used for short journeys A faulty component A problem with the car's charging system A fault with the battery itself Old age How to avoid a flat battery Don't forget to switch everything off as you leave the car. Removing the ignition key may not switch off the lights, but most modern cars have a 'lights on' warning sound as you open the car door. If you don’t make long journeys very often, your battery won’t have much chance to charge. You can sort this out by charging it overnight every 2 weeks or so. https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes HTH.

Worth a try, cost next to nothing and pretty easy to do (depending on how mobile you and your body is (are?)). Never bother with WD40 (Multi Use) it's not a good penetrate or long lasting lubricant go for GT85 (which used to be a British company until WD-40 Company took it over, WD-40 Company also own 3-IN-ONE). You don't need to use much, use the straw to be more precise with where it's going, one spray on the pivot, er, wotever, and work it in, if that isn't enough another short spray and work it in should do it. I think the cans are about £4 but look for special offers, and buy two, last cans I bought I got on special offer for £2 each. GT85 -https://gt85.co.uk/ ETA: I see they're marketing it the same as WD-40 now which takes away how good it is as a penetrating, releasing and lubricating fluid,

Thanks for reporting back, and good news. It does highlight how you can depleted the battery's store though and with the shorter days and colder weather coming up now is a good time to consider a suitable battery charger perhaps to save being caught out and being one of the very many that need to call out the breakdown services because the battery is flat, the AA number one most common cause of breakdowns - Flat or faulty battery. The AA won't say this but I will, very rarely is it a faulty battery, a few might be charging system faults but vast majority will be user error, ignorance or neglect. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes Perhaps consider buying a trickle charger or low, slow charger for longer chagrining, don't go for very quick quick or booster chargers. Good luck.

What machine are you using, a mobile (not-so) smart device or i-can'tPhone, if it's your post click on the three dots at rhs top corner of post for drop-menu with 'Edit' at the bottom. Apologies, once again I was wrong, see next post from roottoot. You'll be lucky to see many posts of mine without edits. (As proven with this post)

Just remembered I've got stock photos of the connector rum4mo means.

Sorry I missed out a word (now added) from what I meant (I often forget to type the word 'not' which really puts things a about face). It was your good self that gave me the info IIRC, thanks. I've left the start/stop battery post plug connected on my wife's car as the previous battery done just about 6 years and recharged well so I suspect we could have got a more out of it so even allowing for car age and wear I expect another 6 years plus more out of the replacement battery.

I'm not sure the exact serial number or code matter at all or not much anyway as I don't know the system. I changed from a Moll EFB to Bosch AGM in my wife's 2016 Fabia. I was told my factory battery (Moll EFB) would probably shows as JCB and serial number of 1111111111 (ten ones) and that was as it was, as show in the Carista link, and that changing the serial number (by one digit), the Ah as required and type of battery were the important bits. Moll batterers are no longer made but the computer won't know that so you could try entering the code of your Bosch (which are made by Varta anyway) as JCB and put it's serial number as 1111111112 (nine ones with a two at the end) and see if that saves and gets your start/stop working. Where did you find the Bosch serial number and was it 10 digits as I couldn't find it on the Bosch AGM battery I bought. Some think the car computers might catch on anyway just by driving your car a bit more, I'm not sure the computers are that clever but I might be wrong. Or third thing, you could try download the latest Draper software for your 81282 here (although you might already have it). - https://www.drapertools.com/product/81282/Battery-Configuration-Tool Are you going to do a lot of batteries, did you pay £300+ for that tool? (don't worry I've made much more expensive mistakes I've had new and "classic" British cars, I'm a serial offender).

Batteries can be recharged but they do need time and patience to do a proper job, long low and slow but they can be revived (or "reconditioned") unless you've dragged the arse out of it. Given a recharge it would probably pass. Batteries are one of the most oversold car parts. I don't know for certain but there might be clues here. Again I don't know but that sounds like it might have been a more expensive choice if the battery fails sooner than the previous or the "premium" option. You might want to consider buying a suitable battery charger/trickle (not a higher amp fast or booster charger though). Or you could buy a device to plug in to show you when and how much electric battery power you are using at any given time, bit like a home smart meter, if the alternator isn't running you're depleting the car battery's store. I'm thinking of marketing slot-meters for cars electric supply to help with understanding where all the electric goes and on what and when. 😁

Yes sorry I was thinking of the battery manufacturer type guarantee (whether they actually make the battery themselves or have it produced) rather than the old chase the queen business operations of some suppliers. Old type of batteries were easier as it was just physics, size and weight giving clues.

Do keep up (even if it means dropping a gear or two). -

Both good points but I'm concerned with the fact the car is at a Skoda Dealership and what is actually meant by it being defective or more precisely what has caused this. If it's a battery failed/faulty/defective from manufacturer then it's a car warranty matter, same as the ones I mentioned before in which case why are the Dealership asking for £300 - or are they saying it defective by use alone, wear and tear which is quite possible in well under 2 years 9 months depending on use (abuse, neglect, not knowing, again I'm not say this is the case with jonjc - but on the other hand it might be I can't know). The other side is that there is a fault in the charging system or in one of the car's many computers and programs. ETA: Cars are now very complicated for various reasons with so many computers and programs, such as trying to get the last nth degree out of a very ancient technology that is ICE, perhaps to test out systems require for future models, and even perhaps to be able to play around with regulations, as has been proven.

I like your humour. 😁 And your confidence of diagnosis over just the information given - and you may well be right about the turbo - or not, hopefully it might be other issue(s). I'm not sure why you think to the remapper miss it it, if it is the turbo all out of puff perhaps the remapping helped to break a weakened car /component/ system/part in which case the remapper is negligent in at least not asking about the car but I don't know, perhaps they did, or a questionnaire was completed. A 20 year old car with 90k-miles, that needs known history and/or full whole car servicing, maintenance and repairs and then time and use before any "upgrades" are considered. I don't know with this remapping but to get big gains usually the car manufacturer's parameters are altered which may be fine if all the various conditions and circumstances the car manufacturer parameters allow for aren't encountered after the remapping. I've no idea, maw_mk1_fabia's car may have always been from new a very well cared for car with only 90k-miles of regular driving so is ideal for upgrades and improvements and this issue is just fair wear and tear or just bad luck or fairly easily resolvable. I have the uncertainty of old age - but at least I'm certain about that. 😁

I was going to put I perhaps had more experience but wasn't sure if you meant Skoda car warranty rather than what's usually referred to over here as guarantee for the aftermarket battery. Until a few months ago I had no real practical experience of other than standard batteries, I only knew of the other types, and I broke my own rule and replaced the battery on my wife's Fabia before trying to recharge it as she didn't have the car from new and she'd worry if the battery wasn't 100% reliable. I didn't even know the new battery needed coding to the car and how very invasive the battery monitoring system is to the rest of the car's systems (well computer programs). Turning the engine off is a good thing, apart from the fumes not created you're also saving some wear on the engine, idling isn't good for it. I'm from turning all electrical items off before turning the engine off and not turning any electrical items on until the engine is running (except safety items obviously) but this isn't the modern way with all manner of items on the go constantly even when the car is parked and that's on top of the modern cars' running all sorts of electrical systems. If cars had an electric meter running same as in the homes people would realise just how much they use. Then as with my wife's car it often only goes very short journeys so the battery is depleted and not restored. My car is from 1973 and even for that time has very little additional electric items on it, my previous model didn't have the interior and boot light so even less, so I'm more used to basics, a couple of years back I had a lady in her 20s as a passenger and she was surprised to see me push the switch to turn the wipers on and off, I didn't realise until latter she'd only seen automatic wipers before!

Good points. (You missed out driver's not knowing the importance of the car battery, use, abuse and neglect, not saying that's the case here). Aftermarket batteries can come with 4 or 5 years guarantee and those are the ones I'd look at. Also beware of Halfords data base as they offer different numbers and the fittings are not always spot on, plus unless the batteries are on offer they tend to be expensive - but they will soon, if not already, be in the 'distress' buying season for car batteries so stocks on the shelves can get lower.

Modern cars eat batteries especially with the start/stop monitoring. I think there might have been a spate of iffy Skoda batteries, see other threads on other models, but I'd wanted to know what's defective about the battery, batteries are one of the most oversold car parts and it's rare now to get faulty batteries. If it is really defective then perhaps it's covered by a recall (there was one on our 2016 Fabia but ours was clear for that). Batteries can normally be recharged (if not already flogged to death) but this takes time and patience which most modern car owners don't have a lot of. I've revive quite a few of my neighbours batteries (one failure though) by giving them a long slow low recharge which can literally take a day or two. Faster charging can often be shallower in its effect and longevity. You could replace the battery yourself if you know someone with the coding equipment. The battery can't be under warranty if they're charging to replace it and no if a correct battery is fitted correctly it won't invalidate the car's warranty. Bosch don't make batteries as I discovered when I fitted one (it's a Vitara) but any good battery is a good battery, you want it to at least the same spec as the factory item. Generally the longer the warranty the better, subject to it being to at least factory spec Ah and CCA but don't put too much faith in just numbers bigger isn't always best (consistence of performance is better). Have a look here. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/Skoda-Octavia-Car-Battery

As you've remaped the engine (at 90k?) and modified the engine 'breathing' (after only a few months of ownership) you're now off standard but still the basics are important. With 90k-miles on it despite the recent service (of the engine or whole car?) along with all other advice I'd consider cleaning any air inlet and exhaust sensors that you can. Personally I'd disconnect the battery and fully recharge it on a long low slow recharge (not fast high), at least overnight if required, this will also hopefully also get resets on the car's computers though you could also briefly switch on a few electric bits with the battery disconnected to lose any stored electricery in the car's bits. Any leaks want sealing, search for any and all leaks. Air not being registered correctly by sensor(s) will mean they're not giving correct info to the computers for running the car and the leaks can have physical effects too. Get the crankcase breathing wrong and you could be throwing more muck and oil in than is already usual which will literally mess up sensors and running.

I don't know the quality of the Halford's Essentials (budget) gauges, a Halford's Essential foot pump my neighbour asked me to get for him didn't look like it'd stand up to too much use. However, I was bought a Halfords LED Digital Tyre Pressure Gauge 2015 as a present a good few years back now and I found it to be very accurate (within it's stated limits) and useful for my aged eyes. It can do presets and other stuff that I don't use but the little LED torch is useful for finding the valve on the wheel in the dark and the dust cap which I've put on the ground instead of in my pocket. Hopefully the built quality still remains now as it's been faultless other than the Halfords badges coming unstuck but it does live in the boot of my car outside where it gets very hot in summer and sometimes very cold in winter. - https://www.halfords.com/tools/garage-equipment/tyre-inflators-and-pressure-gauges/halfords-led-digital-tyre-pressure-gauge-2015-171805.html I've had PCL tyre depth gauge for decades. - https://www.pclairtechnology.com/tyre-tread-depth-gauge-vosa-approved-tdg16c01 And at least three pencil pressure gauges over the years, one a different make. - https://www.pclairtechnology.com/tyre-care-tools/tyre-pressure-gauges Note: images are out of scale to each other.

Only my 'germane' bit, the rest is about tyres. Speaking of which, thanks for reporting back, perhaps you could also report back as you put thousands and tens of thousand of miles on them. Whoever fitted them should have reminded you to take it easy on them for the first 100 miles (200 if wet), unless the manufacturer specifies overwise, and to check your nuts for tightness after the first 30-50 miles or so (bolts doesn't go so well). Check your ('cold') tyre pressures with a good quality reliable gauge, don't rely on petrol station or garage gauges to be accurate (the old PLC pencil pocket ones used to be fine). Good luck.

The first time I ever conscious of this word was in the last few years with Perry Mason, now it's everywhere, shows the power of CBS Drama.

Yes but the service could be required long before the reminder or even perhaps after the date it's not very accurate as such. I'm not one for recording all mileage and mpg and every item such as consumables but unfortunately I can muster two or three folders of "history" on many of the car's I've owned mainly because they were British made and dealing with by the English motor trade, even though the Japanese cars suffered from English dealerships there was never much to record with them other than routine servicing.