nta16

I don't think this is an earlier car but can't really remember my wife's Favorit as it was about 30 years ago. I can't remember her car having that badge there but my memory isn't the best and the only photo I have only shows the rear quarter. Looking at the other photos on that link there's a 136L I think in that colour so possibly that car. I can't see anything that looks like power steering but I could well be wrong. According to my neighbour's website it was only later models with injection. - https://motor-car.net/skoda/item/13543-skoda-favorit-1987-1995

Yeah, if it was a much older car you could discount all the computers and their programs, course you could easily still be right even with the computers and their programs, a compression test might tell more.

Yes but well done, you did pass the information on, and as you know my suggestion was copied (and paste(d)). Part of reposting the link is for the same reason you see an advert for the same thing so often, to advertise to those who haven't seen it before and to remind and reinforce for those that have, you don't know who seen it and who's not - unless you're Google, or China or all the others. 🙂

Just general stuff and thoughts from me, I think you ought to do a compression test asap and probably not run it until. Before reinstalling all the parts, components, wiring, connectors, electronics, pipes ,hoses and replacement turbo you thorough cleaned all and checked for trapped, strained, scuffed wiring and connectors. And after refitting again checked all wiring, connection and hoses for firm fitting and no snagging, even if you did I'd check again. What's the history of the vehicle any other parts fitted, any coding required. Don't take error codes in isolation, see what's also possibly tied in and remember one bit out of whack can knock lots of other bits out of whack that would otherwise be fine. Any readings on the fuel injectors. Just as an example, this 'diagnosing the P2563 code' article gives you an idea how one thing can run on to another or be intertwined, how invasive one set is to another. - https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p2563-obd-ii-trouble-code-turbocharger-boost-control-position-sensor-circuit-range-performance-by-jay-safford If there something out of whack from the start of the engine running then obviously this could disrupt the running. Don't get tempted to jump on to one code and take that as the answer. I can appreciate you didn't want to run up to operating temperature but when possible that, and live road testing data, can help with sorting. Once you have records kept you can wipe the codes and do retests. God luck.

Let us know how you get on. I'm particularly interested as I'm considering doing a 6-month change as the car does such short journeys or putting in a really good oil and do the change myself annually, though I loathe working on our cars, don't mind so much with other peoples just ours.

In that case I'd definitely buy a new good quality sump bolt and a separate removable sealing washer to replace anything a poor quality PO has done and if you can borrow or have a correct size tap* I'd carefully check the thread, I always do a hot oil change left to drain as long as possible and sacrifice some warmed fresh new oil as a final small flush before refitting the plug so that'd also hopefully take care of any bits at the bottom for any reason. * as far as I can tell from internet (not real life) N 0138157 is 14 x 1.5 screw thread ETA: You don't have to crush too much as 30Nm is only 22 ft lbs (I know this as the Midget's wheel nuts only torque to 45 ft lbs and that only 61Nm as I have to inform anywhere that will be removing and putting a wheel back on, especially place that use a 300Nm rattle gun before their torque wrench pre-set to 120Nm.

Bear in mind I know nuffin about petrol engines and even less about diesel engines and I've yet to look at your reports as I'm job hopping at the moment so I'll quickly post (before I forget). You've not mentioned PCV so - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4kSJ4z_CDsA

Vehicle recalls and faults: Report a serious safety defect - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

It might depend on what engine you have but if it's the same as my wife's like many things VAG and motor trade it all gets too complicated, I can explain what I mean if you want but for now I'll just say what I'd do if it were my car (and takes the same fittings as my wife's Fabia hatch which I think they all seem to but don't know for sure). I'd buy a new good quality sump bolt and a separate removable sealing washer, then in future I have the choice to just replace the sealing washer, which I know the part number, type and size or replace both screw and washer if I want/need. I'm pretty sure any decent type of sealing washer ID 14mm and OD 20-22mm would do the job. See photos below for part numbers and type of fittings, on some invoices from the Dealership there's a K at the start of the part numbers. Unless before you has damaged the threads, or you do, then in my experience of even leaky old cars you don't get leaks from the sump drain area but of course gravity being what it is it can be that oil is around that area simply because it's at a low point or edge so some think there might be a leak there.

Looks to be, yes.

I shudder to think what bodily fluids are pink and greasy. 😬 It's not so much the fluid as what it might have flowed through and picked up on the way, but I'm all for building up the immune system generally. Used to be matrix coolant type leaks would put a slight opaque mist to the screen and perhaps smell if the heater was on but now with a/c perhaps not as noticeable. We've had cars with drainage issues and my wife's previous car in particular had unusual drainage route and a 'water ingress' issue that was commonly misunderstood and simple to prevent and sort once the correct information was known rather than the common misconception. I also know well how much water the soundproofing can hold and how long it take to fully dry it out and seen why you don't want to leave things to fester. Let us know how you get on.

Good job you didn't bet your house on it being the scuttle drains (joke for a (possible) viewer). Yeah I used to do things like taste tests but now I'm a lot more cautious, certainly I'm older and perhaps a little wiser.

Might be a bit big, but I don't know, and you wouldn't want it to get stuck or force any blockage to be more compacted. If you could unscrew the camera and union ends the flexi might be of some use after using thinner stuff, or to put a hook on one end. 🙂

Sounds like logiclee, if lucky, may only need to grab stuff from above the filter and a quick look on my wife's car I can see the blower wheel and fresh air flap fully open and you could get an adult arm, and half a tree trunk, down there without removing wiper arm, but if the wiper arm comes off easily then fine, note its position before removal. Personally I'd leave the present filter installed and get a vacuum cleaner hose or crevice tool in there to get out as much as possible first, I've no idea where the drain channel or tube goes after that. Always a good idea to check and clear the exist first but as I hurt my back removing the front wheel because of the stupid design of bolts instead of wheel studs do use two screw-in studs to take the weight of the wheel and locate it on removal and replacement. Once there's some reasonable clearance of blockage top and bottom I add small amounts of very warm water with a funnel and directing hose to loosen and transit any small muck, crud, grit, small debris and then poke around top and bottom again, more very warm water and so on until clear. Add small amounts of water each time and check it's exiting where it should overwise you're just topping up the spillage. Flexible semi-stiff pliable rods or wires with rounded-ends to save scratching and damage or rounded open ends to hook out blockage, anything to part the blockage and put holes through it without compacting it more or hook it out. Easier for me to do than describe! 😁

No sorry I don't and I might have given you a bum steer there as I can't find it only a valve (which I'd have thought would lead to a drain passage/tube(?)) perhaps forget that and cross that bridge if you come to it as I'd guess the exit is under the car too. Just seen run4mo's post and my guess would have been just r/h/s of centre width line of car but sheer guess that could well be wrong. Thinking about it you'd probably have to remove the wiper arm(s) to get the plastic cover off but there enough flex to get in there, employee a small child if need be. I've never cleared the drain channels on the Fabia as although it permanently sits outside it's rarely under trees, if it's like others I've done care, time and patience pays, doesn't have to be a lot of time or patience but not rush or Billy-big-*******s look how clever I am in how fast I can do this (not always very well or balls something up). If you can sort it and post photos we'll all know for future reference. Why these things are so top secret is always beyond me, should be in the Driver's Handbook. VAG are just so full of secrets! 😁

Lift the bonnet and pull away the rubber seal just in front of the plastic cover below the windscreen, I'm not sure how it fully comes off but that should give you enough room to at least see if there's blockage there. Also check the a/c drain in case it's blocked and leaves and debris aren't the cause or only cause. Let us know how you get on (and me how to fully remove the cover).

Don't over rely on a scan tool, use it as a pointer or tester if yours goes to such a level. Disconnecting and charging the battery is a good overall move even if it does solve your problem, you always want a well charged battery when chasing electrics (especially starting issues). I've been with my neighbour while he's been trying out a deeper level scan tool on cars from 2004 onwards and our 2015 Fabia came up with something like 179 things in one section, 638 for the engine and so on and two history fault codes I thought a OBD11 had cleared and IIRC one code I'd not seen before. My other neighbour's 205 Kia took a bit longer to scan but came up all green, no reds, but it only has 28,000 miles on it and probably simpler (bu possibly sturdier?) electronics, sensors, programs. Never just go on what one machine tells you. Let us know how you get on.

Sorry I was replying to ords. What about synchronising both fobs and battery disconnect? A good level of scan tool should be able to actuate just the boot to test it's working, even if there's not an error code showing.

Confirm manual mechanical operation, from boot side anyway, so not a completely jammed mechanical lock.

If you've not already - I'd always try resynchronising BOTH keyfobs as it only a matter of minutes of very easy work. Check there's nothing caught in either side of the catch, though I doubt it'd be that if it opens manually but again it's quick easy and free work so why not. Failing that it might be a case of getting a check with a scan tool or visit to Dealers but before that personally I'd try disconnecting the car battery overnight (and taking the opportunity to give it a long slow low recharge) and reinstall the next day as it's free and if nothing else helps the car battery a bit and gives the computers the old 'turnin' it off 'n' on agun'. Others may be along with other ideas. Whatever it is let us know the result so others can learn from it.

Check your Driver's Handbook and have a look at any menu settings where you might be able to change the locking or time or duration of the locking of the boot. A mate was telling me how after having to have a new hazard switch fitted (!) on his ultra reliable 18 year old Honda the window refused to go up and after checking the fuses someone suggested checking he hadn't pushed the window lock switch - he had, course he had, it's a Honda from 18 years ago, Honda mechanics and Technicians would at that time gather round any vehicle that came in for other than service work.

Well done on finding the rattle. It's good to know the problem was resolved and how, you could also say how you sorted the wipers on that thread that way others can learn from it, well done on sorting those too.

Whatever system and however it works it does need to be working fully and all parts, components, systems and programs all within their working tolerances (though I expect there might be some computer program work around, if there is, and it's working). Problems and issues are often because not everything is fully working and often can be combination or permutation of things being slightly, or more, out of whack giving more trouble combined than individually. It might be that the part(s) are fine but a sensor and/or the computer don't think so or playing up themselves and there's so much crosstalk a slight break in communications and the unwanted guest is sitting at the top table. I wonder if the spanner left in the engine bay, or whatever the cause of the OP, has been found yet?

Carry on like that and you might get a rattle from the engine itself. 😄 Engine mounts you can often hear at initial take off, worth checking as you know the sound. What gearbox do you have? What service work has been done on the whole car in it's 6 years? Did you get your wipers sorted?

In that case I too would use a SatNav with traffic info. What about using a separate portable SatNav device instead, a pain and expense I know but anything to ease the annoying buzzing noise, especially on top of such horrendous traffic. Let's hope someone posts that they had this problem but it just went away with time, like you put you can hope. Other than perhaps a change and/or upgrade of the unit, if that's possible, you could be chasing parts and electric supply wire(s) perhaps with no improvement on your unit, other than if some sort of noise cancelling if it's possible I'm fresh out of any ideas, sorry.