nta16

I guess K is for the kit, this is what I get (other than sites with distracting adverts). - https://www.hifygasx.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=35171

Stop, you'll get me going on rolling circumference. 😊 Having had a few issues with tyre places over the decades always best to check, on a previous rear wheel drive Skoda I had a tyre place put a front wheel on the rear and vice-versa when the pressures where quite different front to rear, not good for straight braking.

Never trust garage (and tyre places?) or petrol station tyre pressure gauges for accuracy they can often be well out. I literally came in half-an-hour ago from resetting our eight tyres (no spare wheels) as they were 'cold' and all needed a bit adding as they were last done when the weather was warmer. I use the same pocket tyre pressure gauge all the time so that any very small discrepancies remain within the same (very tight) range. The Fabia having the fashion for larger wheels with lower profile wider tyres and higher pressures sometimes needs minor tyre pressure adding because of all the potholes, my car with 13" wheels and 155/80r13 (79 T) tyres at 24 and 26psi rarely vary in their pressure (nor did the previous 145/80r13 ,75 T).

Driving for a while on the new rack as it is is a good idea but not so with guessing numbers from codes, there's thread on here about codes have a look at that and research elsewhere but don't guess, steering not a system you want to guess with. If you've not already done so, I think it's also a good time to check all four/five tyre pressures with the change of weather. ETA: First edit wasn't to copy mfgf but to add explanation, seems we agree on tyres but not steering adjustment. 😄

Grd3105, see the first link and video for general clockspring info and the second video for Fabia specific (about halfway through for clockspring, I'm not sure why he had trouble with the steering lock, I never, but I'm not technical 😄). Youcanic - closckspring general, see text and video - https://www.youcanic.com/article/airbag-clock-spring Fabia (wiper stalk fix) video - https://youtu.be/w4CWH5p5VWM As you're going to disconnect the battery you might as well give it a long, slow and low recharge, you know it makes sense. 😁

Genuine laugh for your comment from me, I like witty. 😄 I was going on the limited info given by the first post and throwing up my usual first (and contentious) idea it usually encourages others in, and often the more technical, throw enough mud (opening there) and some will stick. Checking the battery state, connections and charge is always a good idea on cars particularly these modern cars, I'm not technical but I do have 42 years of experience of owning and using cars and the car battery (and charging system) is a very neglected important item on vehicles hence the very high level of breakdown recovery call-outs for battery/charging problems and rarely for faulty components rather use neglect or not understanding. The car can start fine and headlights seem bright enough and the battery still be low enough during the heavy use that many modern cars and driver's give it that it's low enough to get the car's computers and programming to start playing up in all sorts of ways. I've been told many times that a battery was "good" went it wasn't and getting it good has sorted the problem or at least helped. This problem now looks a lot less likely (than even before) to be a problem with the battery but a battery in a good condition and sate of charge will help confirm rectification whereas the reverse could actually hinder or delay progress.

(ETA: KenONeill posted whilst I was still typing, happens a lot to me as I'm a slow thinker and typist.) Basil, are you sure the spare wheel is correct to your particular vehicle, what size is it, what markings on it and what make model and size is the tyre? I wouldn't know if its correct but others might.

MOT inspection manual: cars and passenger vehicles 4. Lamps, reflectors and electrical equipment 4.3 Stop Lamps 4.3.3. Compliance with requirements - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-3-3

Sorted, great. Who knows with computer programs, perhaps it's done a good job of warning you and you'll notice after the turbo actuator has been replaced, under warranty so a good thing to know about. Let us know if you notice the difference, give it the Italian tune-up (once car is fully warmed of course).

Talbot was an old name brought back IIRC going back to Sunbeam Talbots (Alpine) (50s and 30s) and before that. Then there were the other Talbots . . . And on to things like the Lotus Talbot Sunbeam. ETA: My neighbour's vast website on Talbot. - https://motor-car.net/talbot

Not a car I really remember. A mate had some SRi as company rep mobiles but I don't remember any being a 309, but I can't remember what numbers they might have been as he changed jobs and/or cars quite often. He had a couple of Cavalier SRi IIRC one leaded petrol that went like a rocket (compared to the cars I was used to) and the next was a Friday afternoon (unleaded) that highlighted how quick the previous one was - but it did have an 'i' on the boot (badge). 🙄

Battery seconded. I don't know KESSY key so might be wrongly assuming the with the following. Also don't have a secondary key, alternate the use of both keys. I'd also resynchronise both keys (see details in Driver's Handbook) after the battery is fully (long, low and slowly) recharged or if not that issue sorted.

Obviously it might not be - and I am not technical or mechanical, I just know how much the state of the battery is forgotten about and how important it is to the car and even more so with newer cars. If you can't charge it enough in one session then do more sessions, leaving the battery on the car to charge means some (a lot sometimes) of the recharging is lost because of all the systems on the car still working even when the car is parked up. Battery or charging issues as still one of the main reasons for Breakdown Recovery call-outs despite car batteries and charging systems being much better now, it's mostly (just about all?) down to the car users not knowing or neglect. Batteries are also one of the most oversold car parts, often they can be recovered but it can need long, slow and low charging whereas everyone wants instant solutions or at least very quick so don't have the patience or understanding. Good luck.

I would 100% fully charge the battery up, even if it was after anything else. Personally I'd remove the battery from the car and put it on a long slow low charge (not fast high) at least overnight, much longer if possible to fully charge the battery which will help the car in many ways. Also disconnecting the battery for many hours might give enough time for things to discharge (that's the wrong word but I can't think of the correct one) and reset themselves. After reconnecting the battery I's also synchronise both keyfobs (details in the Driver's Handbook). On my wife's 2015 car the only thing that needed resetting was the time of day - but I don't know with your car you'd need to check to be sure. Shorter days, longer nights, colder wetter weather in future weeks and months - you want to have your battery in good condition and state of charge not to join all those that need the Recovery at this coming time of year because they've not taken care of their car's battery, plus as I put a lthe computer programs are very fussy about battery level and will play up in all sorts of ways not always obvious as to why.

Yes that's more as I remember it, I'd call a Peugeot a French car, wasn't a Rootes. 😄 ETA: The plant was just at Coventry to us.

Slik, hi, welcome. Two bits of hopefully help, first you'll like second you probably won't. You'd probably find this thread useful for info you want, and to post on. - If the car is new to you don't want to spend any money on it making changes until you know for sure you don't need to the the money for other stuff and time for you to fully discover the car to see what you want to change and the priority - or after a while you might find you change your mind as to what you want or you think required. Best tuning is to carry out full servicing, maintenance and repairs and not just to the minimum service tickbox requirements. No good trying to get more out of the whole car, let alone the engine until you have a good point to start from. If there are any areas of the car that aren't good for whatever reasons then you can't put them under more strain until they are made good (not reasonable, good). Don't take offence (or a gate) but best tuning for any car after what's above is driver training, and you can swap that to another car with ease and without cost. Wheel size in itself doesn't give better handling and performance, (too) bigger wheels with (too) lower profile tyres generally can give a very crashy ride and give more damage to the tyres, wheels and car as our roads aren't racetrack smooth. Tyres, which effect the braking, steering, road holding, handling, ride comfort and noise, are very important, their lower profile and wider width can be bettered by a different tyre composition and compounds (of a smaller size), too wider wheels and tyres can be detrimental rather than an improvement and different size and widths of wheels and tyres can have pros and cons in different driving, roads, weather and environments. Don't just follow the crowd do research for what applies to you and your car. Good luck.

But when did they go on to French cars, I wasn't thinking that far back, stereo radio was about in IIRC the 1920s but 60s and 70s before most had stereo radios.

Which air bag light come on, where is it? There's a "clock" mechanism to the bag and all sorts of stuff to the steering wheel (depending on which you have) the bag has a detonator that as you can imagine either detonators or doesn't. Anything to do with the airbags wants sorting ASAP, a scantool and/or dealers. You need someone technical for this query, which ain't me.

Was you turning the steering wheel when the noise started and light came on? Are you sure the noise was from the airbag and airbag light? My first thoughts always with these modern cars is that the car battery is in good condition and battery in a good state of charge (and that's not just the car starts and the headlights seem bright), also that the terminal post clamps are secure and tight. The car battery being low has a big effect on the cars computers throwing wobbles. I doubt the battery is the cause of this but with computer programs who knows, has the steering wheel been taken off before (I had to to repair a fault on the wiper stalk)?

Simon, simple answer - CASTROL MAGNATEC STOP-START 5W-30 A3/B4. - https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-magnatec-brand/castrol-magnatec-stop-start.html But there are loads of alternatives if you can't get that for any reason. WHY do you need oil? My wife's car is 6 years old only does mainly very short journeys but it doesn't need oil adding between annual services.

Yes I think I've misunderstood how much of a ball end there is. I was thinking more of a slight wobble-bar sort of thing. Even using a 1/4" drive small ratchet, with adapter and end bit it can be tight to get at fixings without having to remove too much other stuff. My neighbour had a short-handled 3/8" swivel head ratchet wrench we used with the 3/8" socket TPS bit and that gave enough clearance and torque to get the fixings out, I let him take them out as they were in to plastic, funny how careful he was with his own vehicle, I ratcheted them back in to se how tight they were.

More O/T I know but any idea how I could bash the tips out of these sockets I bought? - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203287084374 I bought these to see how poor they are and a set each for my two neighbours who thought they already had them in their tip sets but hadn't (I forgot the term tamper-proof), this set is crap , a couple of tips in the set I wouldn't trust for just one use as the hollows didn't look centred. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265174239529 To replace my twisted TS25 / T25H and to add a TS27 / T27H which I didn't have, and give my neighbour them too, I bought these Bosch and the same in DeWalt to look for any difference in quality but my neighbour suggested we have one out each set to distinguish the sizes as we both have poor eyesight. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303761062121 & https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164692399202 I'll probably never use them, I didn't even know the ones I already had were the security type as I've never had to use them, they were just in the socket set along with E sockets which I've only lent out for use once.

Fair enough, the screwdriver handle socket didn't look deep enough to gain much purchase or balance to the bolt but it must do (stupid bolts instead of studs gave me sciatica but I won't tell that tale again here). I've only used a deep socket so wouldn't really know and being a miserable old-fart fashion wheels annoy me. A mate had an original Disco not long after they first became available and within 18 months the interior panels were warped, all those 'skylights', and the step and rear ladder rusty. For it's size and weight it do go well though as he had the less popular (3.5) V8. He told me he'd been told it'd do 19mpg around town same as his 3 litre Granny, after I realised he was serious I couldn't stop laughing. I can't fully go with your kindness about needing torque for a T20 fitting, I (almost) sure I remember new tools being required for French cars decades back and I think that might have been Torx, I suspect it was to get the cars back to dealerships for work. Mann+Hummel own quite a few filter brands including the original manufacturer of oil filters Purolator (pure oil later) . - https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/brands.html

I was about to put Mann (Hummel) are good filters at a good price. I'm amazed that air filters are at such long intervals for replacement, in the old cars filters were changed at least every year if not 6-months in normal conditions, 2 years would be a maximum for me when they say 4 years. Any debris is going to inside the engine to wear it and a dirty filter will be reducing efficiency and make everything work that little bit harder unnecessarily. Same for engine oil & filter (Mann do reasonable oil filters too and possibly also make them for other labels/brands) regular timely changing with good quality oil will have the engine running better and for more years. Mann C 22 035 air filter according to their on-line catalogue. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Fabia III (NJ3, NJ5)/1.0 TSI CHZB, DKLD (T00000000332458)/Air Filter/C 22 035 Other Mann parts with fitting instructions for cabin filters. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS %2B TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Fabia III (NJ3, NJ5)/1.0 TSI CHZB, DKLD (T00000000332458) ETA: grd3105 I've added this to give you more confidence in them perhaps, Mann+Hummel own quite a few filter brands including the original manufacturer of oil filters Purolator (pure oil later) . - https://www.mann-hummel.com/en/brands.html

I've just had a look at a Wera T27 screwdriver, with very useful ball end tip, very nice but certainly not cheap or inexpensive. I don't think my income or use could justify too many of those but they'd be good to own. I really dislike the driver bits as most seem to be part of the throw-away society as you can buy them in sets of multiplies but they can have there uses and if well made not designed as disposable "consumables". The Torx 5-point hollow/security (Torx seem to get lots of different names) fixings as you say are on items the manufacturer doesn't want the owners to touch but then wasn't the whole Torx and other newer fittings originally used on cars to put people off other than taking the car back to the dealer. The only 5-point Torx security bits I could find at reasonable price for a once or twice only on someone else's vehicle were US Pro in 3/8" sockets (not even 1/42) which made them a bit big and cumbersome in use. I did wonder how the bits are held into the sockets and whether I could bash them out to use with stand 1/4" drive adapter. I didn't notice the fitting I was trying to undo was 5-point and had never heard of such so when the 6-point TS25 and TS27 didn't fit I thought perhaps there was a TS26 that was factory/dealership specials. rum4mo are you sure the plastic handle end is for wheel bolt spinning (although I've no idea what else it's use would be) as the socket part seems quite shallow and the plastic not over robust, surely fingers and wheel brace cover the need, unless the handle is for other uses or models of car, there are some funny slots in the plastic handle. I remember when we had the Estelle 2s in mid-80s that the tool kit that came with the cars were noted aby the usually very mocking newspaper and motoring-press as robust and comprehensive which to me just showed how at the time the other car manufacturers must have been cutting down or cutting out the cars' tool kits as the ones in the Estelle 2s seemed pretty standard to me and certainly not comprehensive (if that was the word they used, I can't remember now).