nta16

Oh, no, that was a mistake! Always kick the car out . . . well at least first.* 😁 * I am totally joking, my wife has put up with me for 44 years so I totally know how good it is to have and value a life-partner - kids today just don't know how to suffer a long-term partnership. 😅

Sorry I couldn't help, I do think it could be so many possible things that it needs a full deep scan as things are so interlinked, brakes, transmission, engine, just about anything. If the car was under warranty you could perhaps demand a Skoda UK Technician (if such still exists) if the Dealership say they can find no codes and nothing wrong. Your photo should prevent any questioning of it being you or your wife misunderstanding what had happened. Good luck. ETA: It didn't happen whilst driving passed a G5 mast or E10 pump did it? 😉

This can be an issue with rely on error codes, sometimes the problem or issue isn't enough out of whack for the program's parameter - but if an error has shown I would have thought it ought to record but I'm not a VW computer program, you shouldn't need a photo of such things as proof of them happening, Some scan tools can only go so far or deep into these things, you'd hope the Dealership would have the full diagnostics and fully up to date but who knows, perhaps they only have one and only one person that really understands it and the one machine is stuck on another car and the person is away from work that understands it (? ! ! ?), otherwise why can't the Dealership give reports or let you see the person and machine in use. The VW systems are know to be very complicated - it has been proved that they are very sophisticated in operation, cough! I just think removing one lot of invasive programming might help but of course it still leaves plenty of others and it could be some silly minor part playing up or sensor, wires, connections (though you'd hope those'd throw up communication error codes). I'm ****ed-off about this as I can see our Fabia perhaps going this way and all more recent cars even worse, bad enough the PCs playing up intermittently after MS updates, the joy of not know which will play up after. Of course if you've been driving your car along a river that might upset those computers and wiring and connections. And if this only happens when your wife is driving the car then she'll have to go! 😁 Good luck, let us know how you get along

All battery connections (post, inside of battery post clamps) clean and in good condition and firmly fitted, battery firmly clamped, earth connection to body good? Yes disconnecting the start-stop connector will disable the function but not the car so you can give it a try but now you've seen an error message it should be there for a scan tool to find, perhaps along with others. The computers and programs on these cars are very (over?) complicated and very (over?) invasive. I lifted this about VW just to give an example, you really need a full list of the current error codes and someone who knows how to interpret or advance them. - ". . . the EPC sensor has given the computer information that caused the vehicle to be put into limp-in mode. Potential issues can include: Malfunctions with fuel metering, timing or emissions systems Engine speed sensor failure Problems with other sensors such as the crank or cam position sensor, mass airflow sensor, even the brake light switch Traction control problems Vehicle stability control problems Cruise control issues Throttle pedal issues".

Blimey they're glossy photos. 🙂

Did you get the new battery coded? Have you tried disconnecting the battery/stop-start at the battery earth terminal to see if that clears things? The battery program is so invasive I'm not sure if it gets more complicated with DSG.

A very interesting Top Gear video from 1987 of the Favorit, on a favourite Welsh road. As I commented there, we had one, in the early 90s (J reg), again my wife's car, I had the three Estelle 2s before. IIRC the boot light doubled as a handy removable (rechargeable) torch. I do well remember the lunchbox bulb kit and the sturdy tool kit in tool roll, neither ever needed on that car - but would have been very handy for all our British cars over the decades before and after that.

2015 (2016MY) - the boot opened with the engine running this morning - the stop/start button was switched to off at the time I'll see what happens with the engine off later.

We normally have this problem if I have the car to pick my wife up but neither of us can remember if it's with engine running and/or just key in ignition, could replicate it today as the computers had taken over because my wife had just made a very short journey from cold and the computers took over. I wonder if the boot remains locked with the engine running to save gassing the poor "valet" or who ever throws stuff in the boot. I try to push the middle button on the fob but can never find as it's always turned the other way and my wife just opens a rear door and puts her bags on the back seat. I'd be interested to know your findings, but a 2019 car may have different computer programming (commands/demands) than a 2015.

Have a look at my thread as it might be the same /similar problem and solution. -

Perhaps you could put a photo up and those with pre-2018 cars can say it's not the same and those with 2018-on can say yeap that's the same as mine.

Could be so many things, are you sure it's not the engine, clutch, gearbox? Could it be a plate or shield, what sort of rattle? A recording of the sound might help with all windows up and a second with all windows down. A second (or more) person listening inside the car and then outside the car can sometimes help with better location area of the noise. Does the noise happen all the time or when the car/engine is cold (or warm/hot)? One thing I always put (that's often not understood or annoys) is your car battery fully charged and in good state of condition (and its connections) as it affects what the computers think and do so much, a computer brain fart here and there might not always show as a code but can be felt by a human, the computers control so much even before you open the car, switch the ignition on and start the car let alone when started and pulling off. Even if the battery is nothing to do with this issue you want it in good condition before the autmn and winter really kick in.

IIRC (which ain't often enough) the Fabia is quite a bit different to other VAG offering and I think I've seen extended struts are needed to have the hatch open fully. I was also thinking of them (and others) but didn't know their but I couldn't see that they stocked for the Fabia Mk3, perhaps too new for the effort yet. There are also places that will make up, or stock, struts of various lengths, ends and strength but it's not really worth it when they are already readily available (subject to sellers listing and stocking the correct type for the particular car) and as has been said already if the Skoda dealership sell the factory part at a reasonable price then that's probably a good bet. ETA: last time I looked was 16/17 years ago for a Mk2 Capri and I ended up getting a s/h set off (IIRC) a Granada which had a bigger hatch door so would take the Capri hatch door if the struts weren't too worn which they didn't appear to be as they worked well. I'd always swap in pairs personally.

With the multiparts type places you have to take care as their databases aren't always very correct and the same part is offered with alternatives that fit different model versions. Wouldn't a dealership post out to you? Worth ringing to get prices so you have an idea, Dealerships aren't always a lot more expensive and if getting a genuine Skoda part it should be correct, fit easily and have a long life, worth a reasonable amount more to continue avoiding more/extended hassle. I'd not use a broom or two brooms even because they may not be stable enough especially if you knock into one or both, get someone to hold the tailgate for you or at least hold with broom(s) assisting, the broom(s) don't have eyes, mouth or brain (hopefully your assistant has all three). Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Wipe off the oil so it doesn't potentially mark up your paint. They're easy to replace but do consider before starting the job how best to safely hold the hatch up safely whilst doing the swap, injuries often aren't funny. Same as with braking or suspension parts, If you're replacing one side then best to replace the other too. Loads of info and videos online about what you need and how to do the work, all the info you need is on the struts you have (subject to them being original to the car) you don't have to buy from the Dealerships but sometimes the prices can be reasonable for original factory parts. There's lots of alternatives available.

Must be all those rain clouds over Cardiff making the sky dark early. I struggled to think of how many hours between 5pm and 3am but got to 10 in the end. That'd be a reasonable pick up depending on how low and out of condition the battery is and the rate of the charger but it could still be well short of fully charged and will be slowly discharging when fitted to the vehicle depending on what's left running on the vehicle as it sits parked up. As Wino has put take a reading first thing (in the morning, or perhaps afternoon for you(?), I used to be a bit of a night owl) and the meter could be useful for further investigations. Modern cheap digital meters are fine for ballpark figures but give them some leeway for actual figures, always test the meter against something you know to be about right before every set of test readings (say a new 1.5V battery or another car battery) and don't do the test too quickly, hold for a few seconds to make sure the reading is reasonably steady.

I'd add morning, i.e. first thing in the morning. Unless you go to bed very late the charging might not have been enough to fully charge the battery (if I had more confidence I might say, without knowing the details of times, voltages, etc., it probably wasn't enough, but as I haven't and don't, I won't). 🙂 The fact that you got some improvement possibly means the car has fuel and/or no punctures. 😁

No, you just off target there, how about changing binary for monochrome on your list. 🙂 Put your list up, it might be that you're being too hard on yourself.

The one particular problem probably isn't the battery but the battery is not to be ignored, your confidence is to be admired but not if it's only binary thinking, checking the battery is well charged is always a good idea on any starting or electrical issues diagnostics and essential sometimes otherwise you can't know if it's sorted because the battery is too drained.

FYI - this is the report from scan tool of swapping the battery, I was told the battery although a Moll from the Skoda factory might be coded as a JCB and Serial Number of 1111111111, the same as so many others from the factory, so much for accuracy. I was also told to enter the AGM as "Fleece" but I wasn't 100% by this but still haven't got replenished stock of can-be-arsed to check or do anymore about it yet and I'm not sure it'd make much odds, same as 1 more A/hr battery capacity but I do think the change from EFB to AGM is worth entering if you're recoding. Whether the car would learn for itself that the battery has improved (is new) I don't know but I don't think it'd realise the difference in type (but it might, who really knows with VAG computer programs - other than the companies in China). Name: Battery_Adaption Values: Battery_capacity: Old value: 59 New value: 60 Battery_manufacturer: Old value: JCB New value: BOSCH Battery_serial_number: Old value: 1111111111 New value: 1111111112 Battery_technology: Old value: EFB New value: Fleece Mileage: 38907 mi Date: 2021-06-25 10:30:01 Cheers.

I found these photo on site. Note, take care removing this fiddly connector only use your fingers not tools, getting that grey locking tab back is the awkward bit, especially if like me you have short stubby fingers, it's plastic so use guile not too much force. Toothbrush cleaning any grit/crud off first might help, once the grey clip is released you can wiggle the connector off. Best to tape or cover both open ends of the connectors to stop any muck getting in. I think I had the AGM battery fitted for days before it was coded and disconnected that stop/start connection for at least one day if not more, no problems that I could tell and I fully charged the AGM battery before I fitted it against the advice of some. After the car runs, the stop/start works and the battery charges I very much doubt anything I done has made any significant difference, if any at all, to the life of the new battery. HTH.

Yes I have (on 1.2 TSI), that's what got me to this site. BTW adding "MK3 1.4 tdi" to your model info would help with giving answers, a diesel, like an automatic, is even more reliant on a good battery. I can direct you to my thread or you can take my memory of it now. Yes the battery is best coded to the car so that the very invasive battery stop/start programs can allow for its charging but some suggest that the car will learn you've fitted a new battery (but probably won't know you've changed the type). Don't panic fit the new battery as this at least gives you a chance to charge up your previous battery off the car and at a long low slow rate. What you can do if you want until the new battery is coded and type and any changes coded is to disconnect the stop/start connection on the earth (negative post connections) farty little awkward plastic clip connector, you'll get a warning on the dash but life will go on (but not your stop/start function). I can photo the connection for you if you can't see it. If you have a look on here there's a thread for a map for those who might recode the battery for you, and scan for error codes too, if you can't find it I'll look, just can't remember at the moment.

Yes I was just about to answer there, so will do there - and I was the same as you about not know a battery would need coding, not surprised but just as annoyed. Audi had the idea by making a patent for just about every normal thing on the cars and VAG with their ownd computer programming systems for diagnostics.

Always worth checking, a couple of months is a while ago, even if the actual fault isn't the battery to find electrical, computer, starting problems you really need the battery and its connections all in good condition and the battery in a good state of charge. Volts is good to know but also cranking power and load as volts can soon drop off with demand and starting the car is heavy demand. (if I've got the strict terms technically wrong I apologise). Do bear in mind the very invasive stop/start system battery management system can be tinkering around to ensure restarts don't wait for dash warning or instructions, they may not be as timely as you'd imagine and that one thing it's trying to ensure is the car restarts even at the expense of other items on the car. Personally I wouldn't, you could be replacing a good factory quality part that's working with a cheaper quality replacement and for no good reason but if you don't mind spending a tenner as an experiment to clear your mind then go ahead, if it works it's job done, if not at least you've satisfied your curiosity but do put the factory unit back in if the replacement doesn't cure the issue. As Wino has put having a look first might show something up, I don't know on the Fabia but some relays don't just pull out for replacement. Yes but there are many possible reasons for this. If you have availability to good scan tool, especially if it can do live, then there might be error codes that have yet to trigger warning bells and whistles on the dash. My neighbour has just bought a very comprehensive scan tool and we're trying to learn about the vast amount of information it gives, it's turned up error codes several other systems have missed and codes that haven't resulted in dash warnings, as AFAIK the parameters for putting up a dash warning are far wider than than recording an error code internally. Unless I've misunderstood a good scan tool could also test your relay and starter from the comfort of the front seats or sitting inside a warm room with a mug of tea if you have the range. One thing I noted with the scan tool was that as soon as it connected to the car before running a scan even at the very top of the screen it shows car battery voltage and that live info remains at the top of the screen. Let us know how you get on and the result(s). Good luck.