nta16

As I was looking at cleaning the throttle body yesterday, on my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI that's GX26 charge pressure sender (with holes for screw fixing but no screws to do so, or holes just usual German wunderbar fantastic-plastic clips). If you're going to clean it then don't use carb cleaner (ETA: unless carb cleaner is correct for this) buy and use the proper stuff instead, you can reference the information you prefer for yourself, I would normally like to put a link to reference the information but sorry I'm too hot, mardy and lazy to bother at the moment as I was passing by. You could also possibly multimeter test unit and connections, again looking up stuff might be required. Good luck.

Fair enough, it was worth a look though. Coding the battery isn't a difficult or complicated thing to do but like all computer programing, data entry stuff it needs to be done accurately and correctly and checked. A G Falco seems very knowledgeable and very helpful and I would guess very particular and precise so if he's able to help a very good choice. He could also take a report then delete any existing error codes (any true error code problems will return of course) but you have the report for reference. The likes of the VW computer systems will possibly have brain-farts or other type error codes on many days if you scanned the car everyday so some can be ignored and they go away by themselves, or remain and can be ignored, and different scanners can give different reports, you're relying on one set of computer programs reporting to another so who knows what reporting errors the combination might give, always best to also use the human senses (including "common sense") along with any computer stuff. Good luck.

Hi, welcome by the way. Fair enough. Totally, totally beyond me but it's not my vehicle it's yours. The widest tyres I've ever had were 225 (at the rear, rear wheel drive) and that was on a powerful lightweight British sportscar, my last car was on 145/80r13 (yes 80, 70 used to be low-profile). You will get further conformation and information from the following websites - tire size dot com - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ will they fit dot com - https://www.willtheyfit.com/ And provided their database is correct, wheel size dot com (Škoda) - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/ Hope that helps, good luck.

What are you hoping to gain from this change?

It may depend on who's doing the work as to how much things are narrowed down, hopefully if the cause is found it'll also be sorted, might turn out to be something quite simple too if you're lucky.

If there was an error in 'coding' the new battery then it might not be charging correctly - but that'd be all the time not just with shock vibration(s). Bear in mind a diagnostic isn't just plugging in a scan tool and just following the report or deleting error code (though it can be these sometimes checking and cross referencing is still required). Computers ain't always right and no errors codes doesn't mean there aren't problems with the car. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

As I live in a glass house I let the transpose go. 😄 I always fancied a GTE (and P1800 ES) but a GTE owner, and user, where I worked then advised me against owning one so I turned to considering a GT6 but a chap at work got me on to MGs and that was the start of me disproportionately helping the British economy out. I got a GT6 later and it was possibly the worst car ownership experience for me, but my considerable losses were others gains, some very undesirably. The LED lights on "classic cars" debates and use I lived through with many of those owners against were buying inferior products but earlier even good LED bulbs weren't as good as they should be now.

Used to be a Turner just parked on the main (bypassed for many years) road in a nearby village, so rarely go that way now but I'd not be surprised if it was still there as the village had two classic car garages that I knew of. Only the front side light bulbs were specified on my 1973 Midget, at 5 watt and as put the LED bulbs in the headlights confusion was sorted in 2021(?). I've recommended Classic Car LEDS Ltd as a good company with good products for a while, even for modern VW's (where allowed).

Just for non-like-to-like comparison, I drove my wife's 2015 1.2 (4-cylinder) 90PS Fabia on a 50 mile round trip this morning, much of it dual-carriageway so some at a car indicated 70 mph. 5w-30 oil was changed earlier this month as part of a staggered service, car had outside temperature at 19c, oil temperature was 100c, a little higher than I was expecting but of no concern as easily within car running range and well below what the oil is designed to cope with.

Correct for your 2009 Roomster but not strictly true as you can on vehicles first used before 1 April 1986. - https://www.passmefast.co.uk/resources/rules-of-the-road/driving-law/led-headlights https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment#section-4-1-4

The first thing I would think of is perhaps a bad or poor or intermittent electric or electronic connection, wire/cable, both live or earth side. Always first check is battery terminals and main earth connections, or even loose battery in it's housing - particularly if any recent work has been done to the car particularly if involving the battery or it's area or any earths or in the area of earths. Scan tools also need a solid power supply particular if they power from the car. The fact that these errors came with going over potholes might suggest something loose somewhere, all electric and electronic connections and wires want to be clean, secure and protected. One error in the computer systems can affect other even "unrelated" systems - as often found when the car battery is allowed to go too low in state of charge for the computer systems, the headlights might seem bright enough and engine very easily start but still be too low for the computers same can be for corroded, contaminated, loose connections and wires. Or perhaps something is rubbing against connections or wirers, or water perhaps getting in. You could also consider this and above for the computer modules. So many possibilities that you need to start at the basics and go on methodically.

Engine oil running temperatures variance is far too complicated for me to understand but I'd not worry about generalisations on the oil temperature with your car if the oil is to standard and fresh or not run too long after it should have been changed. Not all 0w-20 oils are the same so you can get variances from using them but all 0w-20 oils will be of a good standard (unless counterfeit) you want to worry more about admitting to speeding on an open public forum. 😄 😄 😄 I'm sure you meant kph or typed wrong num,bers. 3,700 miles year old oil might be more messed than 20,000 mile year old oil. You could look at it the other way round and ask why the previous oil was running at 94 and not 97. What happened to the engine oil filter change and clean of filter box and tubes/hoses. The weekly 40 mile trip will help a bit with the engine oil and with the engine and all other systems on the car as well as the battery especially if those include the occasional Italian-tune up blow-out run style, higher revs not higher speeds necessarily (and certainly always within speed limits. As said before there's an easy way to tell if the engine has been overfilled with oil it's the dipstick, no electric, electronics or computer programs to potentially give false results. Sorry to hear about your wife, you have probably just transferred worries about her to the very unimportant car. Rest up you've had the car serviced, just drive it as required for now.

Absolutely spot on, what I've posted on various car sites before. Well done. Vast majority think engine oil and engine and transmission are the most important things when they're much lower down the priority. The old (British) MG slogan used to be "Safety Fast". I can't really moan about any safety features but a lot of the bottom-wiping stuff that goes on with modern cars does seem to encourage disengagement of the human brain and being more of a passive passenger behind the steering wheel. I'll put my usual for other possible fresh viewers, importance - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc. and clean reflective number plates) see and be seen. I don't want to downplay safety at all but don't get too paranoid and skittish about driving (you can leave that to the underdeveloped car computer systems and driver "aids" and "assists"). Decades back when I first bought a car and when about to sell I would spend two days cleaning and polishing it, wheels off, seats out, under wheel-arches, boot, engine bay "detailing" and as my cars were almost always outside cleaning and polishing them reasonably regularly and before any club events - now I clean the lights, exterior mirrors, numbers plates, rear window, other windows as required, and that's it other than perhaps a clean once or twice a year, modern paints hold up so much better now. In case you've not seen 12v battery is particularly important for less-trouble running, (very) occasional (or as required) preventative charging often best done with a suitable charger maintainer, following car and charger instructions, at a low 3-4-amp, slow rate, over more than one session if required, to battery full (not around 80% as car's BMS has it). You're well set, you could offer some help to others already (including those with decades more driving experience and longer model ownership than you, probably including me). Cheers.

Yes but they still want revenue and profit from premature changes of batteries. Newer models I think went to changing the battery at 4 years with some owners changing before that but I note in the latest 7/2025 Fabia Mk4 'Owner's Manual' there no mention a time to change the battery but that - "The specialist garage checks the condition of the 12V battery during servicing.". And I've seen a post on Briskoda saying (Dealership?) offering to recharge the battery for £40. And - Recommendations when the vehicle is stationary for more than 3 weeks Disconnect the [ negative ] pole from the 12V vehicle battery 12-volt vehicle battery. Charge the 12V car battery every 4 weeks.

No it's doesn't really, it does confirm the drain is less after locking but that could also be the case after a time if the car is left unlocked and items go to sleep but after a longer time. Did you switch the interior alarm off or sit very still inside the car so the alarm didn't go off. The (about) 0.3V difference is what I'd expect from a 2024 Fabia but on fully recharging the 4 year old AGM battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 with the £25 Ring charger maintainer I'd expect to see higher than 12.4v at battery terminal posts with my not expensive digital multimeter, more like 12.8v or 12.9v if I was to bother but it depends how long after fully recharging the battery and lots of other variables. Despite what many think the need to more than just rely on the alternator for charging on modern vehicles used (and unused) in various ways has been with us for quite a while particularly with the over-complex German marques (not as clever as they think they are with their systems, and programing) hence it being part of the number reason for breakdown call outs and so many threads and posts on sites like Briskoda and others. When VW first put in their 'Owner's Manuals' about disconnection the battery if the vehicle isn't used for x-weeks I don't know but from the earliest Fabia Mk1 'Owner's Manual' VW order that battery "must" be replaced if older than 5 years!

ETA: not wheel-size website fault as they clearly have "Center Bore / Hub Bore: 57.1 mm" (I didn't even notice the spelling of centre).

You have the idea then, only the expense in money, time and hassle is a lot more with cars. AG Falco posts is a great lesson in checking, and physical conformation with what you have in front of you rather than internet or other, then of course that is assuming the part on the car is correct and fitted correctly which isn't always the case particularly with older cars you don't know the full history of. The assumption is that you have original or at least correct type of wheels on the car, you can check if it's factory original or VW, again just by removing a wheel and looking for the VW part number on it. I'm not a VWŠkoda fan (had to work on my wife's Fabia again yesterday but that's another story) which you and I can imagine might annoy some members here, but they're not bad cars, no cars are bad cars, and all the car's I've owned I've always given warts and all about owning them. I used to own Škodas in the the mid-1980s to early 1990s before VW took over and the Dealerships were small back-street friendly and help garages (they had to be to keep custom then) and not the modern often conning corporate style they are now. Just to see if you're on the right track of new driver, a question you don't have to answer and I'm not trying to catch you out, when you lift the bonnet what's the first thing you will think of to check in the engine bay?

Yeap, kooky but very well explained and demonstrated and well presented. As always with these things looks a lot easier than it actually is and seeing a few vids from others on the same stuff highlights how good his vids actually are, strikes a very good level too. Yes very good idea to know as much about what you're buying as you can but sometimes it's best not to show your whole hand as so many car dealers can be less than great an/or honest. Anyone decent and honest doesn't usually have to look too hard for work in the car trade as they're so sought after. I'm very happy to deal with those that take lunch breaks (staff at least) and don't open at the weekends, finding them and being able to get booked in with them is the problem. Many specialist experts I've found to be either not experts and/or con-men. Personally if possible I'd prefer an all-female workforce garage, of course not all women are good and honest but much more likely than with men, in my decades of being a bloke with various cars. Good luck to you, may your car issues be few and far between, they can be an extreme waste of money and in real life terms worthless, I'm way passed the point of looking at the state of the centre caps, keep then with a layer of debris and the imperfections are a lot less noticeable. 😄

Most things are well over engineered safety wise on a car but it's the small stuff that can cause big problems. If you are new to driving then you're probably more conscious in many ways of possible issues than those of us who took our test many decades back (last century, last millennium) and more rely on experience (well what we can remember) and what concerns us and what doesn't. Safety can be about not relying on the (excessive) safety "features" and driver "aids" and "assists" in modern day cars (and keeping off the infotainment/SatNav/phone). As a new driver just passed your test your driving education in a way really begins now. For the car, read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' for driver's maintenance and to save time, hassle and money on unnecessary trips to the Dealerships, garages, mechanics, auto-electricians and tyre places. The VW aren't the best, or the worst, and are a good place to start at (sometimes until you have more experience). If you read and refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more than many long term owners of the model. And the boys and girls giving info on Aunty Google and YT don't always do a good job of such or can be wrong (as we all can). Here's some kooky but very well explained and presented video that remind of some of what's in the Owner's Manual but also other tips, these relate specifically to the MK3 Fabia but others cover other subjects and models, all well explained and presented to learn from or remind, in my opinion. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 HTH. (must remember to view today's video and wind him up)

IF I remember any work done where a wheel or wheels are removed I remove the wheel bolt (bloody stupid bolts instead of studs) cover caps and centre caps if required and don't refit them until I have checked the bolts haven't been over torqued or hammered on with the rattle-gun and then driven for about 30 miles after my check to check again, then the covers and caps go back on. No cover or caps and I still need to check. A previous car (with sensible wheel studs) the nuts only torqued up to 45 lb ft (60Nm?) and tyre places would default set to at 70/80ft lb (110Nm?) and despite me telling them verbally and giving it to them in writing two places pulled a stud by staying in default mode, very annoying, twice.

Well for a start if no charge was mentioned then I'd take that as a con, they should ring you to confirm any chargeable work before they do it to get your permission and out of common courtesy at least let you know. If it's not too late if you paid by card then ring the card people and see what they say, if they can suspend or cancel payment. As you say the information you gave the Dealership wasn't fully taken into consideration and real diagnostics not done. I too would suspect any recent computer updates, and I'd have thought an error code for speed sensor but perhaps it's too intermittent and short duration and/or like on many other occasions I'm wrong. I've never seen any proof from various members visits to Dealerships that any scanner is even plugged in a decent place will send you a before and after report, of course scam artists could just unplug something to give fault codes or other side delete error codes knowing full well they will return with use of the car. An intermittent fault is a pain to track down but a high charge and dismissal is very bad service especially from supposed trained (Dealership) experts in your car. A word of warning about generally buying sensors, buy those that others know work long term on your particular car, these may be lower price or higher price, factory original or not, some sensor need to be very specific to the (VW) module/computer system (and updates?) others can be a lot more general or generic. And then it might not be the sensor at fault, something else might just need cleaning (and/lubricating), wires and connects not clean, secure and protected but if you do change a sensor do make sure all connections and wires are all clean, secure and protected. I loathe working on our car(s) and only started doing so again (not that I know or can do much) after paying professionals to do (some simple) jobs that I then had to tidy up or adjust or completely redo again and thought I might as well do the work myself in the first place and if I don't do well at least I'm cheap and I know I can (usually) always find myself to get it sorted again. Good luck.

It may be that different and/or newer models might take longer and longer to go to (partial perhaps) sleep. I've recharged the battery on my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia with bonnet open but car locked (but not bonnet catch shut) and with car unlocked and I've not noticed a difference in time but I haven't noted any readings or lengths of time as a comparison. Even if recharging at what many would take as acceptable level of state of charge at 4-amps it still takes many hours to fully recharge the battery to full (or "FUL" on my Ring charger) and I know the VW system will get it back to say 80% but it's still worthwhile to me to get the battery to its 100% for battery and alternator (and mpg that I'm not that bothered about in an overweight, overwheel'd, overtyr'd modern car with 5 seats and only me in it).

GT85 is a good penetrating/releasing fluid and longer lasting lubricant (and smells nice) shake the can, spray and leave to soak as long as possible, 24+ hours is good. - https://gt85.co.uk/ How stupid and lazy (but not unexpected) of the Dealership to just plug in a scanner and only go by 'what the computer sez', that's not diagnosis - and a scan tool is only one diagnosis tool, the human senses and where available brain can also be used as well as other tools like multimeters. Have a look here for how to diagnosis wheel senor and other issues and how to check and cross reference your findings to confirm diagnosis, unlike many Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians, and he admits his mistakes unlike those. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 Good luck.

Yeap always a gamble with information from any source (bloke on internet or down the pub) including manufacturers, as all sources and databases have errors and omissions. It's too dark and too much hassle for me to try to pop the centre cap out with the wheel on the car but if yours are already damaged then tomorrow you could pop one out to measure the hole (good luck with the .1 mm) or look for VW part number. Let us know how you get on and it might confirm that size too, good luck.

It might depend on what wheels you have and if they're factory original. The ones on my wife's car are plastic, black with silver Škoda emblem and edge ban. If you take one of yours out you can measure it and/or on the back there might be a VW part number to look up from and get comparisons for. Or have a look here, 15" seem to be 57.1 mm hole - "Center Bore / Hub Bore: 57.1 mm" - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2015/