nta16

If that was also at the only show I went to at Stowe School then I might have (ETA: seen your car), I can't remember what year and whether it was pre or post Covid, I don't think the show was quite as big as it may be now. I enjoyed it and would go back again but any shiny cars would also need to be rare for me, cars that you used to see all the time before they are rusted away and not fashionable enough to be considered an over-valued, over-priced "classic old car but just an old car or old banger.

I'll have a look later to see if I can find anything - if not you could perhaps post a guide of when you did it and the arm.

Yeap you need to be selective as to when and where you buy the more expensive higher octane petrols with their greater cleaning additive packages. As you now the price per litre of any fuel can vary within different petrol stations a short distance from each other and vary more so a little further on. I think my wife said it's usually about 12p per litre more for say Shell V-Power (other more expensive higher octane petrols with their greater cleaning additive packages are of course available, this is just one example at one point in time in one location) so if you're only worried about cost of mpg to that fill I doubt you'll get your money back just on that. Having said that there's very small Shell petrol station not far from us that just keeps the prices per tanker load and usually very good prices but sometimes they might even be a bit more expensive than other if there's been a sudden rash of fast frequent price dropping by other petrol stations around. My wife has filled up with Shell V-Power at less cost than a supermarket 95. She keeps an eye on petrol prices but they do change so much and often. The next town to us is she tells me 2p a litre cheaper for the same petrol and another smaller town just out of area less per litre still. In my opinion if you have a 2011 VW then you really want to keep it as long as you can as it's probably better built and longer lasting than later models, I'd not want a 2017-on model for build quality and longevity plus all the annoying bottom-wiping computer dictating "features" and driver "assists" and "aids" and all the computer systems on the car that can and do go wrong or just play up in annoying ways. Computers plus over the air updates, wot could possibly go wrong. I've always found computer systems to be very trouble-free and robust over the last x-decades. I would find add-in additives a right PITA with modern cars (90s onwards) I'm happy for the petrol companies to do the work.

You'd probably be better making dure your engine is fully warmed (use oil temperature gauge rather than 'water' temperature gauge that's biased to show 90c) then give the car an "Italian tune-up", that is a good reasonable length journey ( 30+ miles) of higher revs. This of course is subject to the car not being such an old banger that it can't take more than dribbling along. The occasional use of higher octane petrols with their greater cleaning additive packages. I try to go for two full tank loads together particular during "services" and MoT. (see attached below) My wife says her 2015 Fabia Mk3 1.2 TSI seems to run better with use of higher octane petrols with their greater cleaning additive packages (I don't drive the car much but it seems that way to me too). I used to drive 20-50 year old cars and I didn't always drive them slowly (but within speed limits). MPG is difficult to calculate as if the car runs better you tend to push it slightly more even with out perhaps realising its so lowering mpg. Good timely engine oil & filter, engine air filter and spark plug changes will help the engine run as good as it can - but of course the engine is a lot less important than brakes, steering, suspension, (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, blower, horn, etc.) reflective number plates (see and be seen). petrol.pdf

Unloaded spring height is only one part of the matter as to ride height, then of course with a pick-up there's load on deck to consider too. Raising the rear could have the front dipping. Thing is why do you want to raise the rear, is the pick-up sitting at factory level or are rear and/or front springs and suspension partly or all worn, and are the correct suspension parts fitted correct and fitted correctly.

It used to have earlier cars than 80s and 90s and not so many flash cars. Sounds like it might be turning into a bit of a highly polished cars that aren't actually used which would be a shame as youngster were showing their everyday use car which certainly might not be "show" condition. It'll be a pity if it's turning into yet another old-farts' highly polished unused car show like the one I got fed up with many decades back.

Hi, welcome. Have a search, Briskoda members have put up details and photos of fitting the VW repair kit themselves, and details of which kit is appropriate. Sorry I can't remember any of the details but I think it's a straightforward job, obviously when dealing with wunderbar fantastic-plastic you don't want to go at it like a bull in a china shop.

Makes sense. Start stop is supposed to be to do with emissions, was used during the same time as cheat defeats on the diesels so a mixed (criminal) message from our dear friends at VW there.

Škoda Parts - https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html

Would this not be SFD unlock then? - https://support.obdeleven.com/en/articles/5685742-what-is-sfd

Uhmm, have a look at attached (if it works, if not look up SSP 426). You and Aidfort seem to think just because I'm not a VW disciple that I'm against coding the battery which isn't the case, and I'm not against use of the start/stop system (peeing in the ocean though it is every little helps as Tesco tell us). Many, many times I've put up details from the battery coding on my wife's car and how to 'code' the battery guides by a previous Briskoda member and suggest it's a good idea to 'code' the battery, but the world won't end or car or battery explode if they can't do it immediately. Nor will it even if not 'coded' based on the self reported experience of some posters here. Perhaps they were lying or don't want to come back and say the battery was ruined by their action. There are plenty of other pro, semi-pro / DIY scan tools that can have the start/stop to default off. Whilst I under valve the VW programers and systems I think you well over value their talents and systems. SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

It can depend on what time of day you go there IIRC it prioritises USA traffic when they awake but I've just been there and the downloads no longer work for my machine but I've no idea why might be something with site, Google, MS, my other programs, I've no idea, such is the 'joy' of computers.

Wot guys, there's only me and I don't live anywhere near Cardiff, yer safe. 😄

I should have put they may only need drying out - and some electric contact cleaner spraying in and allowing that to fully dry. Have a magnify glass or if you can take a photo and zoom-in to check connectors are clear and free of corrosion or crud before reconnecting.

In a (better) YouTuber test Mann FP 26 010 (Biofunctional, FreciousPlus) was third just behind Hengst Blue Care second and Mahle CareMetix just about first as he got it for a reasonable price. I go with Mann as their filters have always been good for me, well the models I've bought, but if a good quality Bosch (not all Bosch stuff is great), Hengst or Mahle (LX 3525 but do check for your model) is more available at same or lower price I would consider them, different suppliers seem to have different prices at different times.

Yeap, water and electric don't mix well. Might not be rust but you need to dry out the connectors and check them for any sort of corrosion or crud, they may only need drying if they have remained wet and not dried and got wet again. Are you sure it's air-con drain as IIRC someone else had this wetting and VWŠkoda repaired the air-con drain and the wet has returned again, yet to be posted the outcome or cause this time. Rear doors leaks are common on the Fabia (reminds me I must sort that out on my wife's Mk3). Good luck.

As AG Falco has put, or they just caught the button when moving the car, have a look in your 'Owner's manual'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

Belinda, you've not updated your car details but I think the same filter goes in all/most(?), you can check with the links and "Vehicles / Application" drop-down menu. I'm a fan of Mann filters as that's that's what I use on my wife's Fabia Mk3. They also include fitting instructions with photos but the cabin filter, for a VW designed and built car, is, very unusually, very simple and easy to install (note which way the flow arrow is). ETA: shop around prices vary greatly for the same product Mann CU 26 010 (Particulate) - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue/search-results/product.html/cu26010_mann-filter.html Mann CUK 26 010 (Activated carbon) - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue/search-results/product.html/cuk26010_mann-filter.html Mann FP 26 010 (Biofunctional, FreciousPlus) - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue/search-results/product.html/fp26010_mann-filter.html HTH.

The thing I meant is why weren't the airbag errors deleted, is more work needed, or is the scan tool used not capable, or is there an existing fault to only airbags wiring, connectors, module? VWŠkoda Dealerships are often an expensive way of dealing with such issues, especially if they are going to charge you some high price for "diagnostics" which are only plugging in their scan tool to tell you what you already know that you have a reported issue/error code for "short to ground". First result on Google search - "Short to ground happens when the current flows through the car body to ground instead of flowing through the intended circuit. It can happen if there is a loose connection between the wire and the car body." - https://www.arrigochryslerdodgejeepramatsawgrass.com/electrical-short-circuit-in-car-explained HTH.

Exkiwi makes a good reasoned case. And yes VW as is their 'funny' ways of doing things seem to call AGM "fleece" as has been covered many times in many posts and threads on here over the years but is always worth letting those that might not know, er, know, which I also do when posting about 'coding' the battery to make it a bit more inclusive (rather than exclusive as some pros or snobby/ego/insecure types would prefer). There are many reasons why VW would spend an extra $1 on a car, particularly now since courts actions but they certainly don't if they don't need and of course $1 on build escalates at retail sales price of product. As for - well they would wouldn't they, it brings them income and restricts DIY and others, of course pro scanners and some pro/diy scanners have this if they want to sell that scan tool to pros, it's another revenue stream available for use. A BMW mechanic/technician told me not to worry about 'coding' the battery (like-for-like) they didn't on his brother's car - but - I put there's debate about this and to get it 'coded' if possible, not to loose sleep if it can't be done at all and for those that haven't bothered or don't want to fair enough, the world hasn't ended (yet) and those batteries are into years of reliable service. I'm told not to recharge the battery on wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 to 100%, and before I installed new on the car, yet I do recharge to full every time and did before I installed it. It has since been to the Dealership and a couple of independent garages without comment on any battery or charging issues and the Dealership certainly looks and quotes for unnecessary chargeable work. Only one independent garage has given me a scan tool print-off of "health report" / error codes (here today gone today VW stuff, can't remember what but ones I'd never seen before). The battery continues to give good reliable service after (only) 4 years and 44k-miles, my wife does very short journeys almost everyday and the AGM battery sits in the engine bay without the additional insulation. As VW found out to their very great cost (in USA at least) real world testing shows up theoretical and laboratory testing and manufacturer's and others claims. If anyone want to test the health of the battery on my wife's car and it's found to be poor I will stop treating it the way I do. As for those that didn't 'code' their batteries, or disconnected that battery thing on the negative post clamp they would have to say how long their battery lasted and if they had issues from doing so.

I'm confused (not unusual at all) how come the airbags were left after diagnostics, was the scan tool used of the level that could delete/reset the airbags or did you just ask for diagnostics and not repair? Perhaps they were deleted/reset and returned?

In the 'Owner's Manual' they (used to) put to change the battery at 5 years which is potentially very wasteful as the batteries can last many more years than that depending on use, abuse and neglect. Later IIRC they went down to 4 years but some owner/drivers only get 3 years before, possibly premature, replacement. IIRC they also have to change the alarm battery at 5 years, the one on my wife's car is 10 years old and has yet to cause issue - famous last words jinxing it now as Sod's Law dictates. 😄

Well this has switched from possible A/C to possible rain water issue, sop perhaps things need pinning down more you gave put this is a 2022 car and is a MK3 is this correct year and model (not Mk4)?

I know what you mean but it's not messing with the wiring it is disconnection of a connector, there will be other connector(s) on the car not connected. If anyone has proof that disconnecting this system connector makes any significant difference to performance and longevity of the battery and alternator in VWs generally or a specific model and/or year it would be great to see it. Long term parallel testing with and without to compare is beyond most DIYers and owners. Many owners already prematurely, or very prematurely change the 12v battery by just relying on VWs systems and not referring to VW's 'Owner's Manual' for the vehicle with regard to the battery. This is the same sort of debate/argument/beliefs as the need to 'code' a new replacement 12v battery when it is a like for like replacement of type (AGM/EFB) and Ah rating to avoid any significant difference to performance and longevity of the battery and alternator. Then there's putting an AGM battery in place of EFB in the engine bay without the additional insulation, whether this will give any significant difference to performance and longevity of the battery and alternator. I might underestimate VW's computer engineers and programmers but I think many over estimate VW's computer engineers and programmers and VW's computer systems (over-complex and intertwined though they are). VW don't always get things right, or can be trusted as has been proven in court of law. Then again it might be under estimating VW's computer engineers and programmers to think they've not allowed for disconnection of the system in various ways for various causes(?). As always each to their own.

(ETA: Plus the universal common sense caution of not taking any 'bloke on the internet' advice without checking and cross referencing it as with any information from any source, particularly in these times, but it's always been so. P.S. the photos I lifted from someone else, I'd never tighten the battery terminal post clamp that much, to me looks like the work of a professional, stronger in the arm than head.