nta16

IF I remember any work done where a wheel or wheels are removed I remove the wheel bolt (bloody stupid bolts instead of studs) cover caps and centre caps if required and don't refit them until I have checked the bolts haven't been over torqued or hammered on with the rattle-gun and then driven for about 30 miles after my check to check again, then the covers and caps go back on. No cover or caps and I still need to check. A previous car (with sensible wheel studs) the nuts only torqued up to 45 lb ft (60Nm?) and tyre places would default set to at 70/80ft lb (110Nm?) and despite me telling them verbally and giving it to them in writing two places pulled a stud by staying in default mode, very annoying, twice.

Well for a start if no charge was mentioned then I'd take that as a con, they should ring you to confirm any chargeable work before they do it to get your permission and out of common courtesy at least let you know. If it's not too late if you paid by card then ring the card people and see what they say, if they can suspend or cancel payment. As you say the information you gave the Dealership wasn't fully taken into consideration and real diagnostics not done. I too would suspect any recent computer updates, and I'd have thought an error code for speed sensor but perhaps it's too intermittent and short duration and/or like on many other occasions I'm wrong. I've never seen any proof from various members visits to Dealerships that any scanner is even plugged in a decent place will send you a before and after report, of course scam artists could just unplug something to give fault codes or other side delete error codes knowing full well they will return with use of the car. An intermittent fault is a pain to track down but a high charge and dismissal is very bad service especially from supposed trained (Dealership) experts in your car. A word of warning about generally buying sensors, buy those that others know work long term on your particular car, these may be lower price or higher price, factory original or not, some sensor need to be very specific to the (VW) module/computer system (and updates?) others can be a lot more general or generic. And then it might not be the sensor at fault, something else might just need cleaning (and/lubricating), wires and connects not clean, secure and protected but if you do change a sensor do make sure all connections and wires are all clean, secure and protected. I loathe working on our car(s) and only started doing so again (not that I know or can do much) after paying professionals to do (some simple) jobs that I then had to tidy up or adjust or completely redo again and thought I might as well do the work myself in the first place and if I don't do well at least I'm cheap and I know I can (usually) always find myself to get it sorted again. Good luck.

It may be that different and/or newer models might take longer and longer to go to (partial perhaps) sleep. I've recharged the battery on my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia with bonnet open but car locked (but not bonnet catch shut) and with car unlocked and I've not noticed a difference in time but I haven't noted any readings or lengths of time as a comparison. Even if recharging at what many would take as acceptable level of state of charge at 4-amps it still takes many hours to fully recharge the battery to full (or "FUL" on my Ring charger) and I know the VW system will get it back to say 80% but it's still worthwhile to me to get the battery to its 100% for battery and alternator (and mpg that I'm not that bothered about in an overweight, overwheel'd, overtyr'd modern car with 5 seats and only me in it).

GT85 is a good penetrating/releasing fluid and longer lasting lubricant (and smells nice) shake the can, spray and leave to soak as long as possible, 24+ hours is good. - https://gt85.co.uk/ How stupid and lazy (but not unexpected) of the Dealership to just plug in a scanner and only go by 'what the computer sez', that's not diagnosis - and a scan tool is only one diagnosis tool, the human senses and where available brain can also be used as well as other tools like multimeters. Have a look here for how to diagnosis wheel senor and other issues and how to check and cross reference your findings to confirm diagnosis, unlike many Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians, and he admits his mistakes unlike those. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 Good luck.

Yeap always a gamble with information from any source (bloke on internet or down the pub) including manufacturers, as all sources and databases have errors and omissions. It's too dark and too much hassle for me to try to pop the centre cap out with the wheel on the car but if yours are already damaged then tomorrow you could pop one out to measure the hole (good luck with the .1 mm) or look for VW part number. Let us know how you get on and it might confirm that size too, good luck.

It might depend on what wheels you have and if they're factory original. The ones on my wife's car are plastic, black with silver Škoda emblem and edge ban. If you take one of yours out you can measure it and/or on the back there might be a VW part number to look up from and get comparisons for. Or have a look here, 15" seem to be 57.1 mm hole - "Center Bore / Hub Bore: 57.1 mm" - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2015/

That's why you buy from somewhere that knows what they're talking about and are reliable and honest (unlike VW) Classic Car LEDs dealers with the VW Transporter (T5) Camper lot so has some experience with VWs. You can ask what's in the bulbs on offer, on the site it used to warn about VWs being awkward but speaking to the chap reassured me. The factory fitted 21w incandescent DLR bulb on my wife's car had a singed socket, which the car's computer system hadn't detected or warned about when I noticed how discoloured the bulb was. Yet twice the same system gave a warning and amber triangle of doom for a brake light, then just went away of it's own accord, first time I checked and changed the bulb just in case, second time I just left it as one of the VW computer's brain-farts and it hasn't returned since. But it's another reason I don't go for the very bright bulbs as their bottoms can get as hot as the incandescent bulbs which takes away one of the LED advantages to my mind. Saw the back of 74 plate something modern oversized "small" "SUV" tank thing, great display of bright rear lights even on bright sunny day but when the brake lights came on you could see the indicator light - brilliant aesthetic design maybe but not practical.

😄 Sorry, I'm very I forgot the link then thought I'd posted it. Classic Car LEDs is a good and knowledgeable company selling good products (cheaper Chinese crap is of course widely available) I put LED daylight running bulbs into my wife's 2015 Fabia from them and it was fit and forget. I prefer to reduce electric load on the thin wires and lower quality VW bulb fittings so I'd never go for the superbright to blind other road users and pedestrians LED bulbs. If you want/need a chat phone them. Warm white LED bulbs are a lot nearer incandescent appearance but brighter. Classic Car LEDs Ltd. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ Good luck let us know how you get on (I've no idea what's on a 2011 Superb, been so mean headlights fashions with the car manufacturers and the German marques have usually been one step more (unnecessarily) over-complex than others.

Have you looked in other forums on Briskoda for more info, perhaps 'Classic SKODA Projects' or 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman'. Favorits would be nearer Estelles than Felicias I'd have thought but VW engine swaps are common across ranges of VW brands, a 130 might be pre-VW takeover though. 'Classic SKODA Projects' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/206-classic-skoda-projects/ 'Classic SKODA Projects' or 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/ HTH.

You might be better looking and/or asking in the relevant Superb forum(s) on this site (also, do bear in some people aren't as good as measuring as others ETA: I don't mean tavs, and I've no idea, he might work to laboratory standards for all I know ). - Škoda Superb forums - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ HTH.

You can give a shout out to a member by putting an @ symbol at the start of their members name, example - @nta16 = @nta16 or if you Quote them in your post. If it's a bug it must be with your machine or programs/Apps as it's only your posts, I have a recent bug with downloading pdfs from posts but others don't so it's not the Briskoda site with the bug. I don't know what you see on your machine but I just use the white reply box under the last post (bottom of page for me) or top of the thread page there is a button which is a green box with white text "← Reply to this topic". Hope that helps.

It was DerekU that gave all the details. Do you have any idea why you get duplicate " Quote in your posts. To quote a section of a post you can highlight the bit you want to quote then you should get a black box with "Quote selection - as an example - Or for the whole post you can use the " Quote button.

Prevention is better than cure, if you wait until the damage is too much then you'll not get the best recovery. I'm not sure, but even unlocked most things will go to sleep after a time anyway/ - no doubt someone will know and even perhaps have proof - ? @rum4mo ?

Mann equivalent FP 26 021 (Biofunctional FreciousPlus) - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue/search-results/product.html/fp26021_mann-filter.html Interesting to see the photo with "cheaper"/cheaper(?) brand Valeo filter fitted from factory as last VWŠkoda Dealership cabin filter change on my wife's Mk3 it was a VAG labelled filter (now gone to the "recycling" (tip, hole in the ground)). That factory one and that Dealership fitted one for my wife's car, appear to be the more expensive type of filter, rather than the less expensive "paper" types. In the photo there's a nasty bit on one of the fantastic-plastic pieces of car, DIY adaption or VW's not so finest work, and some right rough finish to another (Temu) bit, obviously out of sight out of mind build philosophy.

As long as it's about right it's another thing to gauge by, as I tell my wife they call them gauges and not accurates and you need to add reference and prospective, indicated 60 mph might not be fast on an empty motorway but scary on a wet, dark, twisty country road and you might want to ignore the TwatNav directions when you can clearly see you will be driving into a river, judge how to use any information wisely.

Best to get it in writing, what's said (verbal) is often forgotten and disputed and even the written contracts can be open to interpretation and dispute, but that's the fault of the company that drew up the written contract. Car companies, Dealerships, garages, financial companies, etc. have had many decades (into centuries) of experience so should be getting it about right. It would also help if they employed Plain English principles at least when dealing with England. Of course there are two sides to this, as well as bad companies there are bad customers that want something for nothing and given an inch will want a mile but unfortunately in my decades of experience with the English motor trade it's often more likely the English motor trade in the wrong, or even ripping-off or conning their customers. Not that VW has ever done that . . . 😄

So your 2019 has a digital coolant gauge, my wife's has a needle dial which is good enough as if I want to know when the engine is up to temperature I use the digital oil temperature gauge which can be displayed in the maxidot display. I like the term comfort, first time I've seen that. On British "classic" old over-priced and over-valued cars with the truer reading mechanical dual gauges you could watch the gauge needles move with the actions of the car, or rise if stuck in traffic (not that what they displayed was always accurate) but you got used to normal readings for your car and with these unbiased gauges only inexperienced owners would worry about the numbers others got or whether the needle sat in the middle or on 'N'. A V8 engined owner put sitting in traffic for a long time on a hot day he had the 'water' needle go into the upper section of the 'oil' without any engine overheating issues, some inexperienced owners would have called the breakdown services. How modern drivers interpret any 12v battery gauges in their cars I've not seen reported, I don't think (could well be wrong) they're on the Fabia Mk4(?).

To be fair to VW engineers - on the (UK) MK3 Fabia the cabin filter change is very straight forward, easiest of the very few different ones I've changed. Still a pain in the knees and back getting into the front seat passenger footwell for oxygen-thieves like myself.

You can get a 0.2v or 0.3v drop just from the car's computer systems doing their stuff parked up, more if extras are added to the car. Taking a reading just after the car has been driver could give a false high reading Measure of battery voltage can involve other variables. I think battery gauges are going back on cars but modern drivers might not understand them and older drivers forgot how to read them. The coolant temperature needle gauge has for a few decades been biased to read 90c for driver reassurance rather than the real variable reading, in the 70s the markings were removed from coolant gauges to stop drivers worrying about the variables, same would go for 12v battery gauges. 1970s 1960s

Always amused me (not) that "quality" (maybe last century) marques such as the German ones like VW could only offer 2 then 3 years warranty in the UK yet the "cheap" marques/brands were able to offer 5 then 7 years warranty. I was pleased in the mid-1980s to get 2 years warranty from Škoda when BL and others were 1 year but this was before corporate VW took over Škoda. We in the UK allow these companies to get away with far too much, that's why they sell here, we're a soft -touch. Much of the UK motor trade has been at best dishonest for all of my 50+ years experience with them and it doesn't seem to have got better more recently, attitudes to paying customers absolutely stinks.

There's not much simple from VW engineers, for various reasons it's usually beyond them.

If you can't get it done you might be able to consider LED bulbs that don't require it, you get good advice, service and products from this company and they're used to the fussy German VW marque. My wife's 2015 Fabia has LED daylight running lights from them that don't upset the German engineering over complex computer programs without ballast resistors, but I've no idea about their headlights bulbs on VW products if you contact them they might be able to help as they sell to VW Transporter (campervan) owners.

You can only ask, perhaps they visit your area or you could meet them somewhere or advise on where you could get it done.

Those "Visual Health Check" (lies) ticksheets are more of a confidence trick than not, trying to rustle up additional chargeable good revenue and profit work for Marshall's. I was showing my wife's her instance of Marshall's conning only last night - of course Marshall's would say the one for my wife was an administrivia oversight and then have an explanation for the following oversights and bang the con back on. No doubt they trued it on with my wife as she was a woman and wasn't repeated when I was contacting them. They will get out of it by saying it's their recommendation (eta: though as you put they don't make it clear that's it's THEIR recommendation and not VWŠoda's) which is fair enough if they have been doing annual checks of the belt, tensioner and perhaps water pump which they won't have otherwise they would have detailed it and charged you for it. You are luck they put 70% and 80% remaining for your brake rather than just 70and 80% perhaps suggesting that is how much they're worn. The lie sheets can be amusing seeing issues completely disappear in only 20 days and a number of hundreds of miles, and tyres increase in treads depth in a few months, reports on non-existent spare wheels - all administrivia mistakes I'm sure. You could ask Marshall's what evidence they have for picking 5 years change recommendation (other than wanting the revenue and profit).

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/516188-fusebox-opening-on-mk4-fabia/#findComment-5847128