nta16

That what used to be called "bedding-in" I am surprised (and then not surprised) no one mentioned this and told you to take it easy on the brakes for a while, plus if it was still raining. Has he, or had, the discs skimmed to reduce the surface to a smoother level or replaced them, with new or slightly used others, I have no idea of the facilities there. Whatever you are happier with the brakes. Careful now where you drive and what over or in to. 😆 Well done, good luck.

G-wotever, the Germans with their unnecessary additional specifications for coolants and engine oil (on top of the VW numbers), I think they might have changed the numbers and specifications sometimes to help with the engineering compromises and mistakes with their engines and gearboxes since the start of this century. Only the other day I added a line to one of the VW coolant charts, check the notes at the bottom. It's not great but it was a first attempt as I can't remember where I got this chart from.

No your English is great don't apologise. Sometimes driving the car is a good thing on fluid changes as it shakes the bubbles to the top, same with slightly spongy feel to brake (or clutch) pedal after fluid change, For brake/clutch fluid change I use the one-man-with-jar (fluid at bottom for air seal) method, you can do this with an ABS block fitted. If you don't have ABS I would seriously see about changing to silicone (DoT 5) to save changing again in 2 years and save the paintwork. So many myths about DoT 5 on the internet and with cold car people, a mate his it in his 1969 since he restored and rebuilt it 25+ years ago and he doesn't drive that like it is a museum piece but as it was designed to be driven when new.

Check the brake fluid for fluid content, it is difficult to know the original colour of the brake fluid particularly if the plastic reservoir is dirty, discoloured, change colour with age. Also obviously check the brakes as number one priority. Tyres are a big contributor to braking efficiency, an old tyre can have lots of tread depth but tread and sidewall gone hard from age and lack of use, have a good look at the four of them and bear them in mind when assessing the braking efficiency and system. Have a look at the production date on the tyres and see if the four tyres match for age, make and exact model, size (sidewall profile), obviously cracks, tears, splits, bumps, tread depth, etc.. Details of cleaning and changing the power steering fluid are on this forum too, if you cannot find anything just ask and a link can be put into a post. Also details of changing gearbox oil, details of cleaning suggestions if required can be added.

Summer tyres (or as they used to be called tyres) are better in summer than all-season (unless things have changed?) particularly if the car is used for spirited driving or tear-a*sing about but I expect most all-season users would find them more than adequate.

Thermostats do not spring fully or at their stated temperature, they start opening at (around) their stated temperature and are fully open at a higher temperature. I am not sure if you would notice when the thermostat starts to open on a gauge for a 1990s car, owners/drivers like D.FYLAKTOS would know for sure. If there was an air lock that took the temperature out of the biased 90 range then you would perhaps see the drop on the gauge. That reassurance is why they biased the gauge to remain steady at 90, which is fine you don't need to see the needle moving up or down a bit from that.

Sounds like you have sorted it, just a bit of trapped "wind as we say here when talking about the human body and "better out than in" when talking about natural human body activities - and often medically correct. Do not forget to check for leaks and any clips that might need nipping up if those sort are used, when the vehicle is warm, cold and tomorrow and after next run, it is easily possible to have more than one weep/leak when you have a vehicle that might not have been attended to in those items for years or decades. If the original type of coolant was used previously, and now, it should be changed every two years checking how well the antifreeze is working in the coolant is just one element of it the additive package includes for wear and corrosion protection and those deplete independently to antifreeze element of the coolant. If you keep the pick-up you may want to clean the heating/cooling system more thoroughly in which case I've put notes on this on this forums IIRC a coupe of times and mentioned it more times. Good luck, don't forget the important systems, components and parts on the vehicle, as I put the engine id lower on that list.

Coolant loss is one one possible cause of HGF (head gasket failure) and I can tell you from experience that the signs are a lot more noticeable with hindsight, depending on the cause of HGF the sign(s) can easily be missed at the very start. The misfires were possibly/probably the common plugs and/or coil pack issues particularly with the twin chargers I've seen or been told. Misfires and starting difficulty used to also be signs but I assume the computers sort or get round those more now (I'm used to much older cars). Very short RAC article - Head gasket guide – why does it fail and how can I tell? - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/car-maintenance/head-gasket-guide-why-does-it-fail-and-how-can-i-tell/ HTH.

@Ootohere you may already know this but in case not you can link to a post on the page if you want by getting your cursor (finger? stylus?) on the time of the post you want, just as an example your last post here. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/530580-skoda-fabia-vrs-mk2-2013-cthe-burning-oil/#findComment-5923481

H, welcome. You have a VRS with lowish average annual mileage so hopefully those engine oil and filter changes (which are the bare minimum for annual engine "service") have been of a timely nature and better still in my opinion using better oil than VW dictate. Even then you could still get and have the issues you have. The compression figures for all cylinders and how the tests were done would be useful, did you do dry and wet tests. Don't make any guesses or assumptions instead do tests and checks and check and test the results of those tests (check and test if possible any testing equipment before using). If you have access to a scan tool a report and error codes from it might also be helpful - the scan tool needs to be VW appropriate and have the program for your model and year (or VIN) and that program be fully up to date before use on your car, also the car battery and if appropriate scan tool battery both need to be in a reasonable state of charge to avoid spurious results and readings. If you don't get more and better replies here you would be better looking at the threads and posts about your engine in VRS and Fabia Mk2 forums and/or posting there. I know there's quite a lot on the twin chargers and knowledge in the Mk2 forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk2-2007-2014/ Good luck.

Hi, do you mean VCDS or another scan tool. You do need the scan tool program to be for your VW and your model and year of car (or VIN) and the car and (when appropriate) scan tool batteries to be in a good state of charge to get good reports and readings. If you do not get more and better replies here you could also look and asking in the Octavia Mk2 forum particularly saying your engine and engine code in case it has relevance to your issue and if you want advice on the scan tool the Diagnostics & VCDS forum. I hope that helps a bit, good luck. Skoda Octavia Mk2 (2004 - 2013) forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk2-2004-2013/ Diagnostics & VCDS forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

A no spill coolant filling funnel (burper) purge kit can be useful, the following is just the first video on the list, I picked it as he shows the instructions, instructions should be read and followed even when you think you already know, or know better - I can assure you many professional (they are getting paid) else workmen (almost always men) need to read instructions when they do not, I know I have employed them. There are other videos you may prefer.

I have done (far too) many coolant changes or top-ups from work on car or leaks over the decades on old and newer cars and other than the time I mentioned when I forgot to remove the paper towel I have always filled via the expansion tank when suitable or radiator on older cars. I am not a mechanic at all, I carefully followed the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual (not the factory workshop manual or a Haynes) each time and have always had success first time and I never needed to squeeze any hoses but I accept it might help with some cars, should do no harm and it gives some reassurance. Always best to check for leaks whilst the engine is running and when left parked up and next day. Let the car fully go cold and check the coolant level and top-up as required and check again the next day and after the first run of the car. Do not overtighten worm type (Jubilee) hose clips particularly when going on plastic fittings but you may be able to nip them up after a heat cycle (running the car from cold to hot and cold again) I check when the engine is both warmed up and cold - nip up only if required and not over tight. Normally to get the air out you would leave the expansion cap (or radiator on much older cars) off and run the engine to warm it and watch until any air bubbles stop showing, also it gives no worry about releasing the cap when it is under pressure and the coolant is hot. Having the cap off does not mean the coolant or engine will over heat, the pressure means a higher boiling point which your car should be nowhere near unless there is a real problem. Only going on what has been put in opening post and past experience with old cars and modern parts quality as I put I would suspect the new replacement thermostat and housing might be a cause of overheating if the thermostat is not opening or not fully, this of course is a total guess and could well be wrong and even if the thermostat and housing are at fault there could also be other contributing issue to the overheating, never assume there might only be one cause to an issue, particularly when you think you have found that one cause always check everything else is working properly and fully. Good luck.

Low mileage might mean the car sits around a lot which isn't the best for tyres and if the car is not parked in a garage the tyres are obviously exposed to the elements full time which doesn't help if parked up for much of the time. Even with use the tyres can crack, the two Avon ZT7 on my wife's car had a radial crack in each the like of which I'd not seen before, and it was hidden from normal view by being on the inboard sidewall mid-height. My wife's car is always parked outside, no garage, and is used most days for very short journeys but it is used everyday, very rarely day is it not used, and obviously does many longer journeys too as the annual mileages are about 8,000 miles.

Hi, welcome. I do not know these cars (pick-up) so the following is just until those that do know come along. If you do a (Google) search(es) on changing the coolant, thermostat and thermostat and problems from those it will bring you back to this forum with posts and threads on the subject(s) Bits I (think) I know, mainly about older (than yours) car heating/cooling system. It is a good thing you changing the coolant if it was bad but you'd also want really to fully drain the old coolant, flush the whole system, then back flush if possible, and drain out as much as possible to get as much old coolant and flush water, then put cleaner in and clean whole system, drain thoroughly, then flush and if possible back flush the whole system and thoroughly drain to get as much muck and residue cleaner and water out - before refilling with correct fresh new clean coolant. I don't know how high or low the sensor is on your engine, or whether it is standard practice to remove this for refilling. Generally for an old car for filling and getting the air out you want a high point for venting, or perhaps create one with the vehicle on level ground for filling normally, you squeeze pump a radiator hose to get coolant and air moving as you fill and/or as you warm the car up, have the cabin heater valve on hot as the matrix is usually a high point and you want full flow of coolant. You can top up the radiator or expansion tank as the engine runs and look for air bubbles too, how long each takes varies. Temperature gauges tend to be biased to the 90 regardless of true number, the engine is not hot until it reaches the red section below that is just warmer than you are used to seeing. The engine would be getting warm for the fan to normally cut in. If you use vacuum or pressure now surely you will get more coolant out than any air. From what I can remember reading in posts on this forum the heater is not an easy thing to remove (otherwise you might want to remove it for better internal and external cleaning. These old engines tend to have wider passages than modern engines but it is possible to get an air-lock and/or hot spot or blockage - do you have an engine block drain plug to remove and did you remove it and clean/clear its opening as much as possible? I once left a piece of blueroll paper over the thermostat housing opening to stop anything falling into it and forgot it was there when I reconnected and filled the system, have you left anything in to block anywhere? You put a new thermostat and housing in, are you sure the thermostat opens? Also there are threads and posts on here about getting the correct, and correct quality, thermostat and housing otherwise the new items can cause problem(s). On a wider note servicing the car is a good idea, servicing the engine is more than an oil and filter change and that only covers the relatively unimportant engine. As you can staged in between using the van I suggest you do a full 60/120,000 service and check on the whole van. Priority, brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres), safety electrics, (lights, wipers, blower, horn, etc.), windows, mirrors and reflective number plates (see and be seen). Then engine and transmission. Do not be too hasty with doing things, if the engine was cooling well before the coolant change then it is likely a simple thing to put things right, personally I would carefully clean the old thermostat and housing refit them and refill, and if required purge the system, and see if that resolves the issue - unless others think better and/or you have more information to give on this. Good luck.

@Polar yes evap as I found here - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16826/P0442/001090 IIRC on other makes, models a "gas cap" issue can cause a difficult or non-engine start but that might be those with flap to seal quick fill Yankee cars, I forget.

I had two Avon ZT7, 185/60R15 84H tyres put on my wife's 2015 Fabia in June 2020, and another two a couple of years later, the first set only lasted 3 years and 23k-miles before they had bad radial cracking on the unseen inboard side and had to be replaced, the two have seemed fine so far 2.5 years and 22k-miles later. They were replaced by Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance which seem fine, I would have considered All-season tyres if we'd needed four. How the tyres work out in your size might be different. I can say I'd avoid Nexen N blue (HD plus) as fitted from factory and our first distress of two, after a right-off puncture of one of the factory tyres. If you are changing the set of four you could have a look/search at the all-seasons posts and recommendations on this forum of perhaps Fabia Mk3. Good luck.

Actually, ummm, you're actually putting something reasonable for a change, OK, so which cap are they refereeing to here then? "Common Issues That Trigger The Check Engine Warning There are many problems that can cause the check engine light to come on. It could range from minor issues like faulty fuel caps to more serious problems. In a majority of cases, it has to do something with the air intake, fuel supply or the exhaust system. Some common issues are given below. 1 The fuel tank cap is faulty or loose. Until it’s fixed, you will lose fuel due to evaporation from your fuel tank even when the engine is off. . . . " https://www.volksmasterltd.co.uk/check-engine-light-on-dont-panic/

Engine light and OBD were about emissions, fuel fumes out of a leaking cap are emissions too. @Jazajon a scan tool report with error codes may confirm this, you could also check the cap tightens to where it can no more and gives the clicks and this doesn't happen too soon or it might be a faulty cap. https://www.volksmasterltd.co.uk/check-engine-light-on-dont-panic/ 2107 VW Golf GTi owner https://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=285876.0 More modern cars - https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-services/my-car/warning-light/fuel-warning-yellow.html

Just to confirm you tighten the fuel cap until it can go no further and gives audible clicks?

Some don't seem to know as much as they think they do - arrogance, ignorance, mix of both (?) - for others. - 1K0201557A petrol cap seal ring - https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/product/skoda-fabia-hatch-2014-21-fuel-cap-seal/ https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/1K0201557A/seat-1k0201557a-seal-ring

Thanks for reporting If they delete the codes they might go away and stay away particularly if the car is used and driven a bit (and battery not low). Plus you are relying on two different computer programs. VW's in the car and the one in the scan tool, bad enough relying on one (VW's). The computer programs and systems in the car are very complex intertwined, an itchy buttock might give an ear ache, one system can upset another even if they're not related. Not that I would think/guess (though rule nothing out with VW) low air-con would effect rear indicators or vice-versa. If it was me, always looking for easy hands clean work on a car, if the rear indicators comes up again I'd have a look at the two bulbs in case they've been changed and not done too well or other given the state of other work done. If air-con code returned it might be low, perhaps a leak or from part of front repair work, or perhaps the sensor isn't reporting correctly, or dicky wiring or connection, all good 'fun' finding out if/when required. "All tyres different qualities" is possibly part of the car's history and story of ownership. Inlet manifold caught my eye, hope it's something simple, those computer programs are easy to upset and will throw up a warning light and message as soon as look at you, a slight leak here or there can be enough. Bear in mind an MoT is just one (hopefully trained) person's opinion that at one point in time only the car has passed a statutory minimum standard and not that the car is as good as it could or should be. I can't remember, if you haven't already had the car (not just engine) fully and properly serviced then I'd get that done sooner than later, not only can things be put right/improved by being serviced whilst doing so it check things in the area(s) and around. Good luck.

Yes of course you can but you might be best asking or looking in the Octavia Mk3 forum for which makes are good for your model/engine.

Hi, welcome. Have you checked the petrol cap fully seals fully? Make sure there's no grit or muck on cap or neck, check filler compartment is clean no grit blocking hole. As said you really need a fully scan report, perhaps even live data, to be pointed in the right direction as these cars are so complicated. The scan tool needs to be VW appropriate and the program fully up to date for your model and year (or VIN) and the car battery (and if appropriate scan tool battery) are not low in charge otherwise inaccuracies can appear. What fixes have you tried?

12 year old engine had it, but I think I've seen the Ford ecoboost engines were all great. Personally I'd prefer a 60 plate car to a newer car. The big well known manufacturers here like VW and Ford with family cars for this century at least only really bothered with 4-cylinder engines, and bigger capacity, force over finesse. Fords used to be good for bits lasting on them or easily and cheap to replace but that was perhaps last century/millennium but if you're at Ford Focus and Fiesta level then I suspect VWŠkoda might be a similar level. What annoyed me from a few years in, and continues to annoy me, is the extra expense of having a 2015 VWŠkoda the parts that failure far too early because of lack of quality, personally I'd have sooner my wife had bought an older Toyota or Honda for the same initial cost but less expense and hassle over the near medium and longer term. Very good idea, you could also look at the Guides forum and any other model forum that uses the same engine for engine info. Stick to annual (if not needed earlier) engine oil and filter changes, timely plug and engine air filter changes but that's just for the relatively unimportant engine. Personally I use better quality oil that VW dictate, they're fun about the oil and info they give same for the coolant, the German marques have their own unnecessary additional specification systems. One of the reason's my wife looked at the Fabia (hatch) was because a mate who knows more about cars than any salesman (but likes German cars because he's bulky) told her the Fabia had the most cabin space in its class (wotever that was). There's plenty of room at the front, back is adequate, seats bases are typically German marque too wide a*sed and deep for my short legs, seat covers seem thinnish but have lasted well (so far?). Estate (Combi !) obviously give more luggage space for 5.