nta16

I hope it added value, for you at least. Someone's signature, or photo, or photo with them now "selfie", means nothing to me personally as we are all human I respect more people in the fire service, police, ambulance, nurses, doctors, those that keep the sewers clear, I wouldn't cross the road to meet anyone famous as I don't see the point - if they want to meet or talk to me they can cross the road. About 20 years ago we had a chap in the club that built big American race engines and he also built up his own Cobra replicas with custom made frames and body, one was at a show and and Shelby signed it, and as you probably know he would only do that if the car meet his standards. I'm sure the Cobras he ran with methanol or something as my eyes would sting if I was behind one on the open road. 7l Chevvy (not Ford) engines IIRC. One time we had the four-seater Cobra on our stand that he made, a rear removable panel normally covered the rear high set "occasional" seats, anyone sat in them would be more hurricane swept than wind swept.

I've seen some of his other videos, not very scientific but he never claims to be, this video I had to turn the audio volume right down and put playback speed to 0.75 to able to listen. For DIY occasional use whether a unit takes 2, 4 or 6 seconds to load doesn't really matter, response to button pushes is important though and what actually works and doesn't is important but at this level of Chinese manufacture they might not be consistence so another example of the same model might work better or worse than the one he tried but he can't try 10, 20, 50 or a 100 of each.

No around 12v is low for battery state of charge (state of health has another meaning so we'll stick with charge here). If you mean you didn't turn the ignition then yes that is the way to take the reading and as many hours after the engine has been run as possible. Now your 12.2v reading could be good if say 0.2v can be added to allow for all the car systems doing their stuff even when the car is parked up, 12.2v + 0.2v = 12.4 v a good voltage for the VW battery program for fuel and emissions (show). But 12.2v is lower and needs charging with use of car or better still recharging to full with charger to give greater margin. You live in Sweden you have a 10 year old VW I personally suggest you get an appropriate battery charger maintainer or just keep an eye on your battery and replace it as required (it could have a much longer and more reliable life by using a charger occasionally or when required but prevention is better than cure. If you have a newer VAG 2017, 2019 and gawd help you 2023/4/5 you will have greater need of a charger or more frequent of a charger or more frequent changes of battery. If nothing else remember if the start/stop isn't working when it should usually that is the first sign your battery needs charging (by driving or charger) potentially the longer you leave it or ignore it the greater the need might become, you can only use and abuse the battery so much for so long. Also bear in mind with a 12 year old car the battery and alternator are a pair is one is weak it weakens the other and when older they take more work less well (in general terms). Putting a battery charger maintainer on is one of the few jobs on a car where it's easy and quick clean hands where you can leave it to sort itself while you go off and do anything you like and most things are a lot better than farting about with a car, to me cars are for driving and all else is a PITA to lesser or greater degrees. Let us know if it's sorted and if you can get more info about it great. If you are living in Sweden and not picked up the language enough to get by you are rather proving the stereotype of the English.

Apart from when in sunlight perhaps, like all these "smart" (they are not) phones and other devices, you take a photo with the phone and you can't review it in daylight, marvellous! Don't get me wrong I'm not a Luddite just had decades of these things and their flaws, one time I used to point the modern marvel machine to sky waiting for it to find 5 satellites like some pagan at Stonehenge, then give up and get the road atlas and map in the good beer guide, those were the days 😆

You may not pay £50 for scan at least initially if you give a code but the mechanic should check you and your machine are correct with that code, first rule is always to check that the fault as stated exists. And to proceed further particular with a German marque car from this century he may well still need to plug in a scan tool along hopefully with use of whatever other diagnostic tools he has available like multimeter, headlight load test bulb or other, his senses including his brain and common sense and his training, knowledge and experience. Off topic never worries me too much, it does a lot for others but none of us are perfect. I'm not an expert in anything certainly not cars or computers just many decades experience of the failings of both (and UK motor trade). I don't like laptops, far too small screens and keyboards and a touch pad drive me mad but my wife has had a couple of old s/h laptops so my guess would be that it's something to do with your laptop or its settings or programs so I would plug it into the more reliable mains power and have a look at your laptop settings, anything to do with power or power saving. Of course I am not saying it might not be a MS fault, from experience I would not (and neither would they of course). For computers such as on your VW car any updates you are best to have full power, by the engine running as a battery can run down over the period of updating and before updating is finished. I always sit and watch any updates I do until the very end as I've seen very long ones in the past fail just before the end. If it's a long download I would use a lead directly plugged into server thingy rather than rely on radio waves, wi-fi, blacktooth, wotever and check its connection is recognised. So I would do the 11 download gain with the laptop powered by mains, check you don't need any shillings in the meter, the laptop lead plug is fully pushed home both ends, if the wall socket has a switch check it's on, check the laptop is and knows knows its running on mains, check the laptop won't shut down for any reasons, preferably sort out your battery issue before hand. Are you sure your battery wasn't bad before this and just died at the time by coincidence. With car batteries I have been assured by the car owner that the battery and/or its connections were good but they weren't when I checked. Always, always check the boring basics first, then if there are still problems recheck the basics later as many times as required, I've know jobs go on for ages because the basics weren't checked at the start or confirmed later. Good luck.

Do bear in mind the Autophix or any other scan tool particularly at that level doesn't actual diagnosis the issue, more point you in the right direction for checking cross checking or referencing the information it gives, it gives error codes and some live data to work from and check. Sometimes a scan tool will show that a sensor isn't working and it could be that it is the sensor at fault and replacing it resolves the issue but the fault may not at or with the sensor, things like faulty wires/connections could be at fault, or actual fault is elsewhere but shows up at that sensor readings you could be shooting the messenger. £50 is very inexpensive for diagnosis, particularly if it is done well and successfully. I forget what the problem was in the other thread but I can soon find it so I can't think how useful the Autophix or other might be for this problem but you may consider £30 a reasonable invest for future and/or the current issue. The general generic codes can at least often set you on a path. Don't be too concerned about Windows 11, I stayed off it as long as possible but to be fair I can't think of any MS update b*lls-ups with 11 (not that I remember a lot). You don't have to go on to the 'cloud' or use the 'cloud' version of programs. I has to get a new PC last year so I made sure I got one with a CD (dvd) drive and am still on MS Office Pro Plus 2010 when the previous PC was on 2016, no problems (the 2010 Outlook won't let me use Chrome for direct internet connections but that's OK I can get round it and means I can't click a link that's a wrong 'un by mistake to wrong 'uns. At updates I do remove as many apps/programs as I can for the MS stuff I don't want but other than that it doesn't messy me about or get me in the 'cloud' (bloody silly description for what it actually is). I can't get on with that Apple stuff at all.

There is good and bad in all people from all places but for the UK for about at least around nearly a century we don't need to look too hard for enemies with having many in America as our 'friends' - and this is before the Donald and his rabble.

Depends on what you buy, lower level code reader on dealing with generic general codes probably doesn't too much or any updating. Say with a higher level scan tool from the internet you need to make sure it has a program that covers your car, a VW, Europe, Fabia 2015, then users or manufacturer are made aware of an error, omission in the program so it is updated to put things right, this can be an ongoing process (hopefully not like the ones from Microsh1t that replace one problem with several others. Some machines may have 150+ different manufacturers vehicle brands from around the world with all or many of their different models so full updates might be many and fairly frequent, some owners may chose to keep everything up to date even though they have may never heard of the manufacturer let alone ever like to see such a vehicle let only scan one. Other owners only update those for the vehicles they might use the tool on and forget the rest and others too lazy to check for updates before using the tool on a vehicle. Different versions of whole programs may cover the many other systems being added to cars that weren't generally there only a short time back. The general genetic stuff OBD (II, two) stuff goes back decades so isn't a concern here. Only as one example of theOM126P (wonder what the P is for) at £29.59 with coupon, note I have no idea of unit and seller, just an example of listed features, 2023(?) model. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256314894159 And user instructions manual here for more info and ideas on this one make and model. - om126p-scanner-enhanced-manual.pdf

Hi, welcome. if heater is not the Climatronic type then it might be the very common blower motor resistor packed in (German quality, eh). Loads on stuff on the the internet about it and videos or on this site and it's forums. The location for a Mk3 and hopefully 2017 will be on this forum or a Google search to bring you back here for more info. Prices and suppliers sem to have limited effect on the quality and longevity gamble of getting the part. HTH.

That will get you a code reader that might do other bits. Or you can get these programs that operate off "smart" devices how good they are and how reliable (Elm327(?) and stuff IIRC. Having freeze frame and live data can be very useful. And I was going to put about Warrior193' having a Autophix but would have forgot the number and the P on the end. Some get stuff off these Chinese markets and are very happy with what they get I see it as more of a gamble and never bothered as the VW computer programs are complex and a PITA as it is so I'd not want to upset or mess them up. All scan tools including the very expensive pro ones (thousands of pounds) have pro and cons but generally some of the Chinese (stolen(?) and improved programs) from the likes of Launch, TopDon, etc., and the like look good but they are hundreds not £35. I did like the look of the one Warrior193 has (for its level) I wouldn't mind a play with one. Bear in mind it is only one diagnostic tool and generally if it is correct then only pointing you in the right direction and results should be confirmed and tested and further checking and diagnostics required using other tools, your senses and brain. Before using a scan tool do check the program for your car make, model and year is correct and fully up to date before using the scan tool and that your car battery is in a reasonable state of charge (same for scan tool if appropriate).

Are they chrome or aluminium (or al-loom-e-m as your favourite nation say) (small photo) and why leave the air vents and inside of of centre console (or is that just shadow) black, they should be painted blue to complete the theme.

ETA; I forgot to put my usual voltage tables from VW and Ring Automotive (part of Osram). VW Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V Figures from my ex-neighbour's Ring battery charger/tester. - 12.7v - 100% 12.5v - 90% 12.4v - 80% 12.3V - 70% 12.2v - 60% 12.1v - 50% 11.9v - 40% 11.8v - 30% 11.6v - 20% 11.3v - 10%

12.2v (depending when and how taken) is not too low but is low I would ideally want the battery fully recharged before doing diagnostics as just testing things and time passing can lower the battery charge state. As I put using a computer program going through another computer program (particularly if low states of charge in battery or batteries) would not be more choice I prefer the direct battery terminals approach, then of course it depends on the quality of the measuring instrument (digital multimeter) and other factors but usually a reasonable quality meter will give a good enough reliability to reading. I am not sure how good the OBDEleven programming and programs are but always the rule is never just trust what a computer tells you always verify the information, computers do not always give the correct answer. Sorry, I am unusual here as I have never like VW cars (Golf Mk1 GTi excepted) and to me German engineering car quality dropped quickly from the turn of the century, Audis of the 1970s and 1980s were nice cars well engineered but so were SAABs and Volvo. An ex-neighbour used to collects and drive all sorts of makes and models of cars at finish of contract, 1, 2 or 3 years old, sometimes over long distances and he told me that the best to drive were the Audis but he would not want one out of warranty now. We have had Audis in the car club I am in mainly the R8 and the V10 when they came out rather than the "classic" models and the VAG Bentleys, they are loaded with Audi stuff but Audis generally are still generally just VW stuff on electronics and other parts. To see a VAG Bentley stripped is to see lots of VAG plastic bits, Audi electronics I believe, might be wrong, tends to be more complex than VW and Bentley more complex Audi but all VW family I believe, could be wrong. For many decades back the German marques have prided themselves on being (over) complex, not always to their or their customers benefit though. Even the Fabia deserves better servicing than the VW "services" (engine oil and filter change and very little more other than a look for more chargeable work) and the maintenance schedule, and would benefit from better quality (engine transmission) oils than VW dictates (same would apply to the Audi S3 I would guess, don't know). At 2014 you are at the very end of the better built Fabias, (not as good as Mk1) from my experience of a 2015 Mk3 and what I read on the site forums here, but you should still be able to get more good service life out of the car, subject to its history and present condition. A good independent garage or mechanic (difficult to find in the UK) should be able to sort this for you. As always good luck and let us know how you get on.

From what I have seen the far too lax way of some of the states has ordinary standard vehicles as death-traps and dangerous for other road users with complete-idiot owners/drivers making and keeping them that way. I am not for T's level of controls but you cannot have total anarchy or total freedom because there are far too many people that want to take advantage and/or idiots. I have no idea but Columbia may have even looser regulations than those states of the good 'ld US of A - or they might have very strict regulations that restrict what can be done to alter or change the vehicle or things on the vehicle. The UK is very much in the middle. Cars over 40 years old do not need the annual MoT test (they still need to be legal and roadworthy) or pay the annual "Road Tax" there are restrictions on changing ,major components like engine, transmission, suspension but these are not strongly checked but should be declared for insurance and cars cannot be used on roads without insurance. @Grimdall have a search and look at the threads here (and perhaps on Classic SKODA Projects forum) as I thought the Polo engine swap was done by others (but I could be wrong, my memory isn't the best).

Thanks, my neighbour thought they were a Greek group, seemed strange to me that they would sing in German but your part of the world seem to like German cars for some reason. Also strange music to play in a disco, on the album there's a range of styles of folky and 70s style rock, hardly two tracks in similar style. For sports cars, other than perhaps big heavy V8 monsters, Britain is the place, we have the roads to suit such, what Americans think of as narrow twisty roads for spirited driving turning the steering wheel are usually that wide on their side of the road alone to drive a good British sports car sideways (not that you would of course on a public road) and their sports are more about everything bigger and faster rather than too much finesse and technique. I'm pretty sure you would not be happy with the American muscle cars of the 60s and 70s to actually drive in a spirited fashion or even as an everyday car, same for the Fezzas and going later on. I always fancied a 70s Stingray until a mate put me right and later when a nearby club member bought his pace car model to a closed track club fun run the three of us in TVRs practically danced around it on the bends - and left it on the straights, I was surprised, he was annoyed. 😄

Unbelievable, normally the first thing I bang on about is battery states of charge! But I haven't this time, Sod's Law proven yet again, if you look at many of my posts in other threads I go on about battery state of charge, even if you post the tyre has a puncture 😄 because the battery state of charge is so important to the VW computer systems. If the battery is low, even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough, the computers can be upset and cause all sorts of unexpected warning lights, messages, issues/problems and error codes. There's very little point doing a scan if the battery is too low, same for the battery in the scan tool, otherwise you can get false and spurious readings and reports - not that I am saying this is the case for you now.. The scan tool also needs the program for the (make) model and year (VIN) of vehicle be fully up to date before it is used on the vehicle, again to prevent possibly misinformation from errors that have been corrected on updates. Great idea, instead of relying on two computer programs (car and tool) go directly to the source, measure at the battery terminal posts. Plus the scan tool takes some power doing its work, there is usually a battery voltage reading on the scan tool at the top of each the page/screen. Normally I would suggest fully recharging the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and instructions for the charger maintainer (read the instructions to connect up correctly, not reading and referring to instructions is for lazy, arrogant professionals and DIYers). Then it is best to recharge the battery at a low rate (2, 3 or 4-amps) and this will take a long time, many hours into a day or more. If you have an EFB battery you can check the "water" (electrolyte) level in all 6 cells before and after recharging and before recharging check to see if any of the cell plates are damaged, if so you might be best to just buy a new battery. Start stop not working when it should is the first sign of the battery being in a low state of charge and the battery should be either charged by a reasonable good driving run, with low electrical use in the car, or better still fully recharged with an appropriate battery charger maintainer - (but the bit about the stop/start working yet the headlights are dim doesn't make sense). I think you might have damaged your battery beyond reasonable reliable recovery use which is why I put in the paragraph before normally I would suggest recharging but I think you might have taken the battery too far but you could try a low, slow recharge and see how much it recovers, for how long, but as you also have the OBDEleven you can "code" in the new battery, I or others can give you the simple details, but like all data input it has to be done correctly, another member had a pro auto-electrician **** this up and damage his new battery that curtailed its life to months rather than years. Having a new or as much as possible fully recharged battery probably not solve your main issue but a battery in good state of charge will help with diagnostics whereas a battery in low state of charge can hinder diagnostics and even prevent proper diagnostics particularly for electric/electronic and engine starting issues but as much of the car runs on computer programs most things are affected. A flat battery brings a full stop to things. I could kick myself for not doing my usual stiff on battery (that some moan about) and scan tool but even I sometimes forget the very basics, and the very basics are all I know. See what reading you get off the battery terminal posts (engine, so alternator, not run for as many hours as possible). Just one example -

Until recently Mustangs were famed for their old fashioned (crude) rear ends and rear suspension. Who is KONI? - https://www.koni.com/about By the way, I was watching a YT vid the other day with an old boy in the UK that used to work on Dinos back then and he was saying how badly rusted they would be in a short time and use, poorly built like most Fezzas (and like many bits (or whole) of American cars). Also this afternoon my neighbour played me a vinyl album record (12" long player, multitrack LP, album) that he bought many moons back when in Athens. He heard a track whilst in a disco there but it wasn't the type of music you would normally hear in a disco. It was good, group called City (album City I or 1?) they were singing in German mostly, he thought their songs might be comic lyrics but the music and playing was good quality.

Yeap that's the video and lad then. Fairly well shot and presented and gives lots of info. For higher level scan tools if you get "last season's" or a good s/h one that might not cover the last few years models (or more for a 2020 car) then you can save quite a few bob, buyer beware of course. Prices are falling and features increasing each year it seems but I don't know what level you have to go to for crash code. What about seeing if someone near you with a VCDS can help you out, that's supposed to be the wonder system, or does a VW 2020 car have more levels of keeping non-VW out. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 I've no idea what you're used to and work you have to do on this 2020 Fabia (the 2014 keeps throwing me) but I hope you know there's more to diagnostics and repairs than the sexy big-boys toys of scan tools and that scan tools can't fix or diagnosis everything. If you don't already do so the following is a good chap to look at he uses scan tools plus other diagnostic tools like multimeter, headlight bulb for load test, his eyes, ears, nose, touch, brain-power and common sense (last two often lacking in workmen like electricians and mechanics in my experience). He also admits his mistakes, something many electricians, plumbers and mechanics would never do. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 Also for drivers and owners and repairers reading before and refereeing to as required, the vehicle's 'Owner's Manual', or instructions for any thing, can save hassle time and money, reading instruction before starting work is something in my experience that is beyond many (most?) mechanics, electricians and plumbers, some too lazy, some too arrogant some both. Well that's all (more than) I know and can direct you on this subject, good luck, let us know how you get on.

@zer081 just try pushing button 'A' to turn the boot, storage, luggage area light on with the door, lid open if 'B@ lights up then it's a quick, very easy, clean hands resolve. If you are worried the light might stay on then set your phone to record a video to make sure the light goes off when it should or get young person to climb into the area and shut the door, lid down, lock up, and get them to shout if the light is on or off. 😁

I wonder guess the on/off button is as simple as that, yeah, hard to believe with VW, the connection to the Fathership sorts recharging and boot light on off with opening and closing of boot (luggage, storage area, door, lid or whatever they're called by VW at this time).

From 'Owner's Manual' - "The batteries in the light are charged while the engine is running." "A full charge of the batteries takes about 3 hours." I suppose if the batteries were drained enough and not recharged enough they could be dead but I've always found rechargeable batteries to be very resilient and given full opportunity to recharge as much as they can that they can have more working life particularly for an LED light. I supposed if the removeable light wasn't fully seated in its cradle and making full electric connections the batteries might not charge up but then perhaps the light would fall out of its cradle when the car is driven over humps or on corners. And if batteries were very drained and the car is only used for short journeys and not too frequently there might never be enough charge accumulated to be to equivalent of three hours. I'd just check the light is fully seated and push the on button to see if it lights up and go from there, very quick, easy, lean hands work and hopefully a good result, if not hopefully the batteries will get charged from sufficient driving of the car, again easy, clean hands work, the only type of work that's rewarding to do when working on a car.

I could well be wrong because I don't know but to me unless the model varies in your country to UK your boot light switch looks like to me that it might have been added in by previous owner but other Kamiq owners will know better than I.

@zer081 check the removeable light is fully sitting and clipped into its holder. The manual doesn't say so as such but then try pushing the big on/off button 'A' to turn the boot light 'B' on. I guess but might be wrong, only light 'B' should be on with removeable light fully seated on cradle and electric connections and that light 'C' is only on when light is removed from cradle and electric connections.

It is not unknown for VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals to have some errors and omissions like (almost?) all sources of information but below image is what the 11/2019 'Owner's Manual' has. - When my wife had her VWŠkoda Favorit in the very early 1990s the boot light was a removable rechargeable torch, IIRC one incandescent bulb, no LEDs then, it seemed a clever useful idea but it was never used other than as a boot light. No umbrella but a reasonable tool kit and spare bulb kit.

Items like these may remain available but finding someone who stocks them is a different matter, then sells at what price, €29 for a plastic locking cap is a high price but it has to fit and if it is in stock, an expensive petrol cap in your hand is better than any number of less expensive petrol caps not in stock. This is why I suggest trying a Dealership in the UK or if they have it and ex-Dealership parts that might sell at old stock price or if it's feel off stock or computer list cheap and money in tea-jar.