nta16

Some places that change batteries can do it for you, possibly at an additional cost. Or there is a train of thought that some apply that if the new battery is the same type as previously fitted (and 'coded') and the same Ah rating, or near enough, that the system will sort things for itself. Some have posted on this site they have done that and things have been fine x-number of years later. Whether over the long term the battery life is shorten would take time and circumstances to tell. I don't think there's too much of a panic that the new battery must be 'coded' instantly it's installed. If you have the facilities available then it makes sense to 'code' the replacement battery but if you buy a scan tool only to 'code' the battery in then it doesn't make financial sense if that costs more than getting someone else to do it. There are Briskoda members with VCDS and other tools that can 'code' the battery in, and do scan tool reports, delete error codes and some a lot more. Most just want beer tokens, a few are professional services so want different renumeration. A link to a list of those members at the end. Who ever does the 'coding' like all data input it has to be accurate, one member posted that his professional auto-electrician put 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah which gave the replacement battery a short life (why VW's computer program allowed this error is beyond me). It's important to put the type of battery (EFB/AGM) the (correct) Ah rating and change the "serial number", as illustrated below when a Briskoda member 'coded' my AGM replacement battery (VW call AGM "fleece", of course they do!) for me with his OBDEleven. ETA: battery manufacturer is of no importance, as you can see I didn't even bother sticking with VW's three letter code, also as you can see the factory didn't bother with a real "serial number" on my wife's car or others that have been posted. List of VCDS and others owners. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

Hi, good point, sorry it does look a bit like that but it's not, this was just a quick photo I took on a cold night, the charger maintainer earth lead is connected to an earth lead connection point on the body of the car. I hope this shows it more. -

Yeap it was a race to the bottom but as the Yanks found getting things as cheaply as possible from China wasn't a good idea. My neighbour gets so much very, very cheap stuff from China, some of it quite reasonable but most not, that he gets offered tokens for "free" stuff and has offered me a few bits often they are a complete waste of resources, a few might last one use I expect. I used to order parts for my "classic" (over-priced, over-valued very old) car(s) so I know the problem of quality goes back decades and a good number of years ago I wondered how it would take to expand to the used car and newer car parts market. My "classic" car owned as tight-fisted so customer demand for low priced and as few actually drive let alone use the "classic" they own durability means a lot less than the lowest retail price. One response was to offer good quality parts (i.e. previous quality or higher) at higher retail price, this wasn't too successful as the moany old gits and those that didn't know (or want) better still carried on buying the cheap parts in their masses. Another option was to have an even lower price and quality range, the following is just one example from Front Line Ltd. - "Plus, in 2012 the company responded to its customers feedback to introduce a competitive alternative to the First Line and Borg & Beck premium quality ranges. The Key Parts brand was introduced and caters for only the high-volume references for selected ranges and is aimed at meeting the price conscious side of the aftermarket. See the Key Parts site to learn more." - https://www.firstline.co.uk/AboutUs Don't go with VWŠkoda for front dampers if they're the same quality as my wife's 2015 ones, replaced after 6 years, replacements "misting" after 11 months use and I'm with you I don't know how good their bushes are given all the noises on my wife's car. If you can get a good make and set of polybushes and fit them correctly they should be good in (standard road) performance and longevity, whose and what these are sorry I don't know. Cheers, Nigel.

If the likes of Breezy_Pete can't think of an easy electrical solution other than a switched multi-socket then there probably isn't one. Things I can think of quickly put something on the socket end of the plug lead, perhaps a keyring with something on it he needs to be able to start work so can't leave it in the car and needs to unplug from the socket to take the necessary item(s) with him (I hope that makes sense) keep the battery in good state of charge by using a battery charger maintainer there if possible (a plug-in as I'm not sure a solar would keep up) or use one at other times replace the battery with a new one (very wasteful to me) a good quality reliable jump starter (though I'm not too sure you want to use it too often) you're married so give him a good verbal b*ll*cking 🙂 let him learn from his mistakes. 🙂

I don't think I've ever heard a light called that but no matter as that's a bit of a read flag anyway for this kit installation, German marques including VW have for decades had very complex (over complex for requirements previously) computer programs and computer systems that can perhaps be (too) easily upset by changing from factory which may then require fiddling around with settings which can sometimes have unexpected consequences perhaps more so the newer the car as they have even more systems on them that are even more intertwined so things get even more complex. Why would you get an engine warning light on an induction kit that is supposed to improve air intake? Air intake is very important, and of course you want clean air going in and through the engine hence it is filtered. Think of the engine as a huge air pump on four wheels. I always suggest changing the (standard) air filter more often that VW's "service" schedule (6yrs/60k-miles (!)) and giving the air box and tubing a quick wipe out. I'm sure there must be other induction kits that others have fitted, some perhaps to a 2021 1.0 Fabia, that don't cause warning lights, but these kits may be as part of other work including remapping.

Just seen, I meant my stupidity by relying on them when I was reversing my mate's van into my mate's 6-month old expensive Jag), thought the sensors were bleeping because of the cars at the side and had forgot and didn't look behind.

If you are after just the noise then your ears will be the judge. You might want to monitor if the kit gives any unwanted or unexpected results too, I have no idea about this or other kits but know that induction changes can actually reduce performance when compared with factory fitted or not give enough gain to even warrant the buying cost plus if performance is reduced it might be at the cost of more fuel used and worse. Any unexpected warning lights and messages, unseen error codes (after suspecting low, but not very low) 12v battery charge) I would suspect the kit might be interfering and upsetting the very complex and intwined computer programs and system. I doubt any reasonably made and installed induction system would add very much or subtract much but . . . BTW, if it's not a typo what's an EMF light?

It's often very difficult to know who actually manufacturers what parts, the likes of febi just seem to put their names to some parts or just supply them IIRC and the part will have a different name or boxing. First Line do make some of their own parts and have the Borg & Beck brand (or they did last time I looked) but quality ain't what it was many years back. P1ss-poor Chinese rubber has been knocking about for a couple of decades now, perhaps when all the old stock is sold thing might have or will improve, perhaps not. Is VWŠkoda stock parts quality any good for suspension bushes? I think a lot of better aftermarket stuff was product in somewhere like Poland or that sort of country, I forget the details now but looking on suppliers or manufacturers can give details of the manufacturing or main distribution centre. There are different types and makers of polybushes and with those some are better than others and some people seem better at fitting them than others. If you are on your second replacement of standard bushes then the price difference doesn't look so wide. Sorry I can't really help but I'd be interested to know the answer myself, problem is it takes many years of fitment to say any are good and longer lasting, really bad p!ss-poor rubber stuff would only take months or weeks to start showing how bad they were, hopefully those times have passed now. Good luck.

You might be better waiting to see what type of thing whoever does the remap suggests you use. A lot of "improvements" can often turn out not to be or even not as good as factory. Many/most(?) remaps are about reducing the factory margins of meeting many conditions for wide application long term use reliably, some margins are wider than others and more complex and involved, gains in some areas may be at losses in others. After timely fully servicing, maintaining and repairing of the whole car best performance gains are often from further driver(road) training and these are transferable to other cars. If you don't get the replies you want here you might be better looking in and/or asking in the following other forums. HTH. Fabia Projects forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ Performance & Tuning Upgrades forum -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

They were actually good cars, apart from the problem with - would you believe (!) the 12v battery that got a recall on the 21 plate car and the under warranty replacement battery was more thrown in than fitted and someone overtighten one of battery terminal clamps so that it sat higher and put a ridge in the battery terminal and squashed the clamp fully closed. The 23 plate had a gearbox leak, I believe the car was damaged before delivery from new to customer because when I looked under the car there was black underseal on some bits of metal and over-sprayed/brushed on to the plastic under covers, plus some parts on the underside and in the engine bay had blue and green pen markings that weren't factory. Can't blame Nissan for that though. The radio did intermittently loose its DAB for no good reason and after the first service the coolant level remained at or gnat's whisker below 'Min'.

Sorry, yes, I only had a quick look at the photos (got distracted by the black vertical line at first) but thanks to you highlighting this it is now obvious to me. I was going too quick, especially for my slow brain, I usually trip up when going quick, and too many external distractions when I can only do one thing at a time - then mess it up anyway.

You mean Ren-No!. 😁 I must try remember when I refer to my neighbour's previous Ren-No! Cashcows they were actually Nissan as that's how I start to get myself even more confused. 🙃

A dashcam is better than nothing but it only covers a small area of possible contact, it's like having a single airbag, or any number of airbags, good to have but do not rely on them. If possible prevention is much better than cure particularly with accidents and insurance policies. My wife told me on the rides at the NEC last year a driver's Lambo got hit whilst out on a ride on a roundabout with a older lady cutting and changing lanes on a roundabout into the Lambo and of course she's claiming the Lambo hit her car, dashcam doesn't show the side impact. Years ago a chap had a series one Lotus Elise that he used to do the tours in (roof off, shorts on, rain up north) and he was telling me that in London a young woman run into it, by jumping traffic lights by the sound of it, his concern was only for her as he was a really nice sort of chap, she admitted it was her fault. I told him to be very careful as when she found out how much it would effect her insurance she'd change her tune, but he disagreed as she was such a nice young woman. IIRC the Elise was written-off. It went on to it was going to court as she denied everything and I said that would be fun when he was in the witness box giving evidence as he was a serving Police officer and didn't they realise that. Got settled before court case. If you meet him you'd never believe he was a Met Police officer, entirely different to the others you hear about, how he worked there was beyond me but he was from Ireland so perhaps used to more relaxed, laxed ways. Bear in mind there's a large number of uninsured drivers so if they stop it might not be to exchange details. As I had to remind my neighbour as she's only 4 foot eleven and yet see got out of her car to argue with someone who given her car a minor rear end tap with the car he was driving and shrugged it off, I couldn't even see a mark on her white car bumper let alone damage, certainly not worth potentially being hit or knifed. A rear camera might or might not have recorded enough details but that's then after event details it didn't prevent the incidence just record it. I used to work for a CCTV installation company and there are rarely enough cameras to cover enough and those are not kept with clear vision, some real scumbags just look straight at a camera and give the finger or two so they're not even a deterrent. Last system I saw a number of years ago was extremely detailed and sophisticated but it still relies on the very basics of the camera lens and angle capturing what is needed.

Last night out of the blue I remembered (I think, never sure) it was a Renault 5, possibly a Campus if they are poverty-spec. When he told me his (recent) girlfriend had it overheat shortly after he had just bought the car for her I just asked about why she hadn't noticed the temperature on the gauge rising but he didn't know, he had only passed his car test earlier that year and was only used to riding motorbikes. This was an instance of not making instant assumptions when lifting the bonnet and checking further. It had a plastic expansion tank easy to see IIRC fitted high on the firewall to rear of engine bay, in it was very clean recent blue coolant sitting at a good level, as he wouldn't know I assume (makes an ass out of u and me) it had been refilled after the overheat but with lifting off the rad cap I couldn't see coolant in there, Something had happened to or in, I forget which, the black rubber hose off the bottom of the expansion tank so the clean fluid was just sitting on display really. On further investigation, as the engine bay was perhaps unsurprising clean compared to the rest of the car I found big splatters of very rusty water, possibly from a pre-sale issue.

Bear in mind there are there are different synthetics and not all are equal but a good oil is a good oil be it mineral marketing synthetic or higher end stuff, as long as it is suitable for application and use if it is above what the car manufacturer recommends (though of course that changes over the years and commercial contracts) you should get better service and life than the car manufacturer expects or wants no that they would care less about non-current models or models out of the longest warranty they give. Using a good synthetic in the gearbox can be noticeable, of course some will say it is a placebo effect and/or changing very old worn oil to new fresh oil would make a difference anyway which is correct of course, but I have changed oils that have not been in long and had improvement with a different gearbox oil, against majority beliefs / judgements / views / opinions and often technical knowledge (outside of oil specialisation of course 🙂). I've not know too many Citroens a mate had his bosses BX 16v (plastic dash and bonnet, it flew) my mate was hoping he would go on to get a new XM of the time (single spoke steering wheel that wheezed) and in the 1980s someone else I knew had a 70s DS, fabulous looking car, nearby us someone had a Safari(?) DS estate (very long) used to be outside his art-deco house, now the 80s Bentley (pre-Aldi) sits there instead so I am not sure the DS is in use anymore. The girlfriend of someone I worked with had a little Citroen [remembered it was a poverty-spec Renault 5] that had overheated and was the first car I had noticed without a water temperature gauge (no blue and red lights back then either 😃), Citroen used to do interesting cars, the modern DS hire car my wife had a number of years ago was interesting in what had already broken on it in 6 months from new, and the engine oil level being below minimum when I could check it after it had been delivered for my wife's use, 5,000 miles on the clock.

Yeap that's it. I don't use a "smart" (they are not) device.

In that case your later model might not have one so any drain of engine might be whatever drain there is or take off perhaps bottom rad hose and out top rad hose or matrix hose perhaps, I've no idea of the coolant passages. Back-flush for engine might have to be from whatever suitable hoses there are to reverse flow through the engine, I'm sure you could sort this out. Yeap those two are good priorities. Power steering reservoir and system with change of fluid is in threads and posts here, it will make an improvement, again if things are really dirty and fluid very old (original) then a follow up flush and refill can ensure all is fresh and clean as reasonably possible. That is with the engine further down the priorities but worth doing in my experiences, usual hot long drain and perhaps a bit cleaning but only if required. And without (hopefully) going into oil beliefs, for engine oil and transmission oil even though it's an old vehicle it doesn't mean you cannot take advantage of the improvements in oils over the last quarter century, in fact you benefit more from the improved oils plus the better quality synthetic engine oils (not all synthetic engine oils are equal) give even greater margins of protection for longer and in more extremes as well as reducing wear a bit perhaps. A high quality synthetic oil can help if the engine gets hot or overheats because of say a coolant system fault or unexpected prolonged overstressed used of the engine. For the small extra amount once a year on engine oil it is worth it and for say 10-15 years on transmission oil the extra is very little spread over that time but the additional protect could potentially save a lot of time, hassle and money. With a year 2000 vehicle if it still has the original engine that was mainly from ŠKoda before VW took over then it is up to you but you don't have to follow VW's dictates on their specification numbers and over strictly to their oil weight range, a good quality oil is a good quality oil but many of them meet the VW numbers anyway (early stuff certainly as it was just another unnecessary specification for the Germans to have). Blimey all this and we have not even got to electrics. 😄 Always have the battery terminal connections clean and secure and the battery in a good state of charge (and health) as this can save a lot of time, hassle and money (and help with engine starting and electrics diagnostics).

@ludvig all good stuff but was you able to drain and flush through the engine block block, preferably in isolation, same for radiator and then back-flushing and forward flushing the system or engine block, rad and matrix can clear out more. Perhaps your cooling system is quite clear and clean but D.FYLAKTOS knows some of the limitations of a just a standard drain and flush. Use the pick-up and do staged 60/120,000 km service, checks and maintenance as soon as practical and you will starting with a better and reassuring foundation of ownership experience. Many have been told and expect the vehicles to be slow, poor braking and handling because they are old and used and accept them this way but often these expectations are far too low and the vehicles are not as good as they could or should be. Yes the braking may be different from newer vehicles but they were designed to be used and meet the standards of the time, which have not changed that much, and yes some were better at meeting those standards than others but they be easily driveable in modern traffic without too much allowance made for their age, you are not driving something from the 1940s or 50s. An owner of a different model here had put up with poor quality suspension because it was newly fitted before he bought the car to discover recently when he changed the suspension to what it should be the difference was like night and day and he wished he had done the work a lot sooner. Also here this a lot on new as well as older vehicle when old tyres are changed to new. I owned old ("classic") cars and been on bullet-in boards and forums for decades and have seen, heard and experienced the changes from old too-worn parts to new fresh good quality parts many, many times. Note not all new and replacement parts are good quality, and some "upgrades" and "improvements are not that. When you do the engine oil and filter change make that thorough, takes very little extra effort and time, have the oil hot or warm (with usual cations of course, and drain for as long as possibly to remove as much existing oil and muck as possible so that as much fresh new oil goes in and its ratio to old residue oil and muck is as high as possible. I add a small amount of new oil to the very end of the drain as a kind of mini-flush and let that fully drain. It takes two oil changes to really get the fresh new oil in so consider two thorough oil changes in the first year of ownership. If on drain the old oil is very dirty then other things can be considered on the old Škoda engines.

@D.FYLAKTOS the mpm website must have someone with the same typing skills and eyesight as me. 😆 As I often put always check and cross reference any information you get from any source, particularly the internet, even manufacturers websites and databases there are errors and omissions everywhere, with the amalgamation of companies, databases and catalogues the errors and omissions are copied and often added to then with computers and websites multiplied, what was correct can be lost.

Whilst that should be fine on an old vehicle new to you where you have no real idea of its history and the existing coolant looks quite bad it would be best to thoroughly drain, flush, back-flush with clean water then cleaner in, drain, flush, back-flush as required with clean water and drain. All done thoroughly on engine (drain and clean from engine block drain), matrix (via hoses if difficult to remove matrix) and radiator and hoses, water pump and stat as much as possible. At each drain there can be considerable residue left in the system if not thorough, and even if you removed most items there would still be some residue at each stage be it old coolant, muck, crud debris, globs of old mixed coolants, cleaner, clean water. The aim is to reduce the previous residue so that the end coolant is at as much fill quantity as it can be so it and its effects are less diluted and the heating/cleaning system is as clean as it can reasonably be doing this method. The pick-up's cooling might be fine but it's not really tested at this time of year come hot summer going up a steep hill perhaps well loaded you want the cooling system to be working as well as it can or should. As a really thorough clean and flush of the system involves water I would wait until a warm spring day to do it. If you do a good job the first time then hopefully futire coolant changes will be a quicker, drain, flush and refill. You will be surprised how much more muck you might get out on the following drain and flush after the pick-up has been driven a while with plenty of road use heat cycles done to perhaps loosen more off and move it around. I had a mate accidentally pick up a wrong container and put (I think an undiluted) wheel cleaner in his cooling system of his "classic" he was lucky as it was an old well built over-engineered car (Rover P5B, with a second heater matrix and fan for rear passengers) and the system got a good internal clean and no known problems later from this. He also switched to DoT 5 but I can't remember the details of the change to DoT 5 and don't think I drove it when the DoT 5 was in.

Found it now thanks and edited, done cross through to show mistake, as I put as far as I could see before but I didn't look hard enough and missed it. You are sounding a bit like someone else with the posts though, you've read enough of my posts to know I make loads of typos and other errors and that's what it's likely to be, I wasn't trying to trying to get ludvig looking for some mysterious brake fluid, just another typo of mine. 🙂 I understand the correction and need for it but you could have perhaps just put something like I must be on fantasy island if I mean Dot 8 and not DoT 5 instead of asking for non-existent proof, I get enough of that from the troll on things I 'm correct about. As ludvig put about LHM I think (don't know of course) that he would have took it as meaning DoT 5 and not DoT 8, if not I apologise to him. I assume, but don't know as I got a 403 from the link too, that D.FYLAKTOS's link is/to a typo too. Have a look at this link for DoT 8, I gave up after 5 pages looking for a DoT 8, I take it as the site's search facilities take the DoT and 8 for the the search rather than connected DoT and 8, obviously I don't know about D's link but assume (always dangerous) that's the same sort of thing. - https://www.autodoc.co.uk/s/dot-8-brake-fluid

szilvita didn't say how long he waited at the garage and we have no idea what actual work was done only that he discs in the later photos look better perhaps the mechanic also found something else to sort on the brakes or system. szilvita did put that the mechanic said he would change them so perhaps new discs and pads were fitted it was just my speculation that other work might have been done. szilvita did put he played around with the brakes for 1-2 km and they felt softer and less sensitive. I assume now that the mechanic might have lied, or suddenly heard the brakes screeching, and replaced the discs and pads under warranty, I've no idea what goes on in a garage in Sweden but have some idea of what goes on in garages in the UK and know there are ways and means of achieving what a mechanic or garage want. If new discs and pads were fitted then szilvita should have been advised about bedding them in, perhaps he was and just forgot or forgot to mention it here we can only go on what's posted or the way we read and interpret the post(s). I put 1144 pads on the front of my 1973 Midget and they were still on it when I sold it a couple of years ago and I can't remember doing anything other than my usual for bedding in but testing a new set on Long Mynd prior to going to the Welsh mountains I did have wisps of smoke when I waited just off the bottom for my mate in his Supra so I had to drive on to cool things for him to catch up later. No servo on that of course not that it adds to stopping, numbs the feel of things a bit. The Mk1Golf GTi is the only VW I've ever really fancied having, I was a passenger in one the late 70s or very early 80s so I would guess now it was an early RHD as it was a brand new sought after car and the owner's husband was a flash owner of pubs so plenty of money to get the latest of everything for the wife, I was very impressed with the car though she drove it quite slow, it was very different to the old British bangers I was more used to driving and being in, I owned a pushbike at the time saving for a future 15% interest mortgage, sweet not so sweet memories. 😃

No there's not, you had me looking for my typo but as far as I can see ludvig and I have both put DoT 5, is yours a typo, or has your keyboard been taken over as you sound a bit like someone else with that post. 😉

There is a very good reason for standard brake fluids in cars as with many other things on cars and other vehicles - it cheap for the vehicle manufacturers to buy and use, it also creates an aftersales servicing item and stock which brings in work for the Dealerships and parts sales. Many years ago someone told me how much a car cost then in factory costs parts and it was a very surprising low amount, of course there's much more to the car than that, R&D, and all the other costs, profit, dividends and rocketing executive salary packages. If you think about it cars have a very slow and stunted development, in part from American interest in the 1960s onwards, hence we had catalytic converts rather than the lean burn engine from Japan (Pearl Harbour was still fresh in the 70s too). The internal combustion engine is ancient technology that has towards this century had tweaks and enhancements like an aging film star and bits of computer technology added to squeeze the last drops out of it (or cheat laws and regulations). In the 1960s I am sure there was stuff about electric cars being the future and other developments but in America at least they were happy with inefficient large 1950s V8 engines drinking gas and oil as it was so cheap to them and if they wanted more there was always other countries they could go to. Back to brakes, with old brake seals it is possibly for them to leak with whatever type of fluid you use but I have found leaks are more with new made old car parts, especially the period of p1ss-poor rubbish rubber from China, new 1/4" fuel hose could leak and or crack after a few weeks use, steering gaiters and boots cracked after first winter use, I was lucky with brake slave (wheel) cylinders as they lasted about two years, master cylinders perhaps a couple of years. I also asked my mate about the slightly spongy feel some got when using silicone DoT 5 as it was a popular add-on sales for brake pipe kits sales for old cars and he said the pedal feel on his car was fine and always had been. I think possibly the pedal feel might be down to not properly fully bleeding the brake - bear that in mind. Many owners and very many professionals lack the time and patience to often do a job thoroughly and also some think it clever to done the job quickly boasting about how quick they can do the job which is fine if they do the job fully and properly which is thoroughly. Someone inexperienced can often do a better job than an experienced person or professional just by taking their time and having the patience to do the job thoroughly. BTW some old cars in the UK are called "classics" but there is no such thing they are just old cars that are over-valued and over-priced with the value and price based on what is fashionable at the time and some snobbery, (nothing to do with rarity either) I can say this as I have owned enough on them and spent a small fortune (well for me anyway) on them.

Yes I thought you had to flush and clean the brake system too but a few years back an older chap in his 70s with a 1940s/50s car put how when he was flushing the brake system found a mix of DoT3 and Dot 8 DoT 5 in the system as it came out with a clear line between the two and the brakes had been that way since he bought the car - and when that mate I mentioned bought my 1973 car with DoT4 in it he told me just pushed it out with putting the DoT 5 in he told me. His job is working on "classic" car racing engines he doesn't follow the usual classic car myths and rules he does what he knows works. I wished I had know I could have save lots of time hassle and money over the decades of old cars ownership. Now these are English cars using the brake systems and parts we used over here you would have to check about your brakes - but over here I was told seals needed to be replaced and one manufacturer says not to use Dot 5, possibly for in America but the 1940s/50s car despite being English made was for American export with English parts on it (England needed the money from exports after the Second World War, some of it to pay back the money, and interest, from the Americans!