Yetianimal

OK....I've had to do some deep digging here. The bulb holder is NOT available as a separate part !! You need to buy what Skoda call an Electrical installation wiring bundle for the Front Halogen headlights intended for vehicles manufactured after MR2014 (face-lift model). The PART NUMBER is 5LO 941 813D Cost is around £40. I've ordered one, and will cut off and splice the new holder into the existing wiring, as otherwise it means stripping back the loom which I'm reluctant to do. It's only a simple 2 wire connection. For those of you who may get the same issue.... here's the culprit !!

Hi As the title suggests, my 2017 Yeti has a defective n/s Front indicator bulb holder. The bulb itself is a Philips PWY24W 12V 24W - Single Bulb The bulb is fine, but somewhere within the bulb holder there is a bad connection. The bulb holder itself has two vertically aligned clips holding it in place with a square plastic alignment tab on the side and two double contacts within for the bulb, which end up with 2 grey wires running into the loom. Does anyone have a Part Number for that bulb holder please? I am having a real struggle trying to identify the part. Thanks in hope.

Me neither...!!!😄😄😄

I gave advice Aubrey. The short answer is some dodgier garages will try and con the guy for £50-80 for a completely unnecessary scan. My own dealership advised back when I changed mine that the battery didn't need coding . Those MOLL batteries were a poor battery anyway. I had one on my new Yeti originally. They have since gone bust . I can code my own, as I have an Ancel 700 scanner, so it's no problem to me to do so, but the op obviously doesn't have a scanner, so it was just a reply to him to save him from getting shafted . It's now up to him really. Have a great 2025

No, it doesn't need recoding . But beware of garages and some other sharky places that will tell you it does.

I have an Ancel VD700 Great bit of kit that has a special section for VAG, Skoda and Audi cars amongst others. Bugatti Veyron amazingly! About £90 Pays for itself very quickly, and very portable.

Thanks Austin 7. You're right. Us older guys who could strip down most cars in a weekend, grind valves, replace pistons and fix pretty well any issues are all retired. I know cars are a lot more high tech these days, but most components still do what they have done for many years. There is a bone idle, lazy malaise in most dealerships. All they are interested in is selling cars. Technicians are probably highly trained, and I don't knock them, but they are mostly under the scrutiny of the management bean counters, so the easy out is just for them to not deal with problems unless you arrive with your lawyer! A sad state of affairs which inevitably backfires on the dealership, because you feel aggrieved and so don't return to buy another car. Life in 2024…

Almost from new, our Skoda Yeti developed a rattle on the front end when turning left at a junction. Almost like the rattle you'd get on an older engine when the ignition timing was a degree or two out. Despite numerous visits back to our main dealer (now no longer in business) they were unable to solve the issue. I even went out with one of their technicians to replicate the noise, and although they were unable to offer a solution, they said they would, document it on the service record.... They did not. Here, for anyone else is the reason and solution given to me by our local Indie mechanic... He found it online, and it works. Even on brand new vehicles.... Obviously neither Skoda or VW were bothered about admitting to it or fixing it! Anothere reason not to buy from VW/Skoda again. Test drove it at 15mph on quiet road violently swinging the steering right and left. Sure enough, a metallic front end knock on both right and left swing of the front suspension. Anybody who has gone fault finding for front knocks will have a list to work through e.g: Broken front coil spring, bad shock absorbers, loose bolts on shock mounts, loose shock fixing nut, front strut swivel bearings, bottom suspension ball joint, engine mounts, exhaust or hangers and anti roll bar (ARB). Search the web and you find many inconclusive investigation reports for Skoda and vags. I had both front struts off a VW last year, it is tedious, but the best way to get to the bottom of that illusive knock. This time I checked the coil springs for breaks first then started with a pinch bar and the front suspension normally loaded, huffed and puffed, pulled at everything - an MOT PASS, but the knocks were still there(?) Then I decided to hack into the anti roll bar. The best way with those is to remove the tie rod connecting the ARB to the strut at one end, hang a length of 2" steel scaffold tube on the end of the ARB then test the centre mountings and far end tie rod left connected. Those centre bushes are hard to access but I found no play. Repeat for the second tie rod. I started to undo the nut on the ball joint connecting the tie rod to the ARB. I've learned that is the best one to start with! Strange the nut on the left side was tight, but the nut on the right side turned (?). It wasn't, loose but the ball joint spigot was turning. I fitted a spline key into the end of the joint and attempted to tighten the nut. If I had carried on, the spline would have been wrecked and a new tie rod would be required. As the left side tie rod was disconnected I poked my short length of scaffold tube on the ARB end and waggled it up and down. Immediate metal to metal contact from the thread of the right side lower ball joint hitting the hole in the ARB! I had to find out what was going on because so many have just replaced the tied rod (with ball joints) but my ball joints had no play. On the basis that new nuts are cheaper than tie rods, I cut a slot in the ball joint nut with a 1mm disc grinder whilst avoiding the threads on the joint end. A couple of chisel smashes later the nut could be turned with a spline key in the joint acting as the counter turn. So what is going on? These ball joints have plain M12X1.5 parallel threads and there is no taper fit on the ball joint. The hole in the end of the ARB is 12.5mm diameter which is 0.5mm oversize. They rely on the ball Hex collar nut torque giving sufficient friction to stop the thread moving around the hole in the ARB. Unfortunately, they screwed up because the 'collar' on the ball joint is narrower with a smaller contact area than the collar nut. They got the collar nut about right. but not the other half of the sandwich! I'll leave it to your imagination to decide what you can do with a short 8mm wide strip of 8 thou brass shim and a M12 penny washer. I replaced both left and right lower tie rod ball joint nuts part N015 081 6 for £2.50. Test drove Yeti and there were zero knocks from the front suspension. This fault is very hard to find and many have just replaced the tie rod and ball joint assembly. I bet the dealers do this too. I think the sequence of events is the lower ball joint nut slackens off first, then rusts on the thread. Anybody using the spline key and wrench will find the nut torque in limits when the nut has actually seized and locked. The test is to try and tighten the lower ball joint nuts. If they turn along with the thread, there is no friction to stop the thread banging around +- 0.25mm in the hole.

I'm also in the market for a new car for my wife, but I'm afraid that Skoda won't be seeing my cheque book this time round. Unfortunately, once your shiny new car leaves the showroom our experience has been that Skoda simply don't want to know. Dodgit and Scarper. I'm not making that error of judgement again.

You Tube is your friend here. There are numerous videos of VW radio units as fitted to Skodas, Audis, and many other makes. Type in "VW Radio touch screen repair" and you'll find them. Watch the videos until you're absolutely sure of how to do the screen replacement. Then go ahead. I'd allow a couple of hours, work slowly and take notes as you go. I used SIANSMOBILES on Ebay for my replacement screen.

Hi Tycho Thanks for the pictures which give a positive identification of your radio/satnav unit. Sorry, when you said Skoda Estate, I assumed wrongly that you had a Yeti... But generally, if it's just the touch screen that's failed, they are repairable by simply replacing the touch screen front ( called the digitiser screen). There's a guy on Ebay called SIANSMOBILES who sells these screens. So don't give up with the one you have if that's your problem. Post in the Fabia forum for details of how to remove your unit. They generally come out very easily though. You'll need to get your unit out to positively identify which digitiser screen you'll need. I can't advise on alternative units. I don't use Apple at all, so have no idea. But replacing the digitiser will be your cheapest option.

About this time a year ago, the touchscreen failed on my fitted 2017 Yeti Amundsen Mib2 radio satnav unit. I got great advice from a number of members, and eventually my wife and I decided to replace it with a non touchscreen Kenwood DPX 7300 Dab unit. What a NAIL of a unit! Well, what a mistake THAT was... The manual might as well have been written in Swahili, the customer service was a shambles, none of the steering wheel controls worked, and operating the unit was a nightmare. It was a SHAMBLES! Complete waste of money.. So the other week, I fished our Amundsen Unit out of the cupboard and decided that I would get hold of a Digitiser screen and attempt to fit it. I had always been very hesitant about this. I am no techie on audio equipment. So I bought one from Jonathan at Siansmobiles on Ebay, and set to work. Two hours later, and I had a fully working radio satnav unit back in the car. Success. So really, this is just a heads up.... If YOU have suffered the dreaded non working touch screen issue, don't give up..... do as I did above. With reasonable care, some spare time, and a few small tools You CAN do this yourself and avoid the absolutely ridiculous prices quoted by main stealers. Make sure you order the right Digitiser screen and it really isn't difficult. I'm just turned 78...I did it! 😂 I don't know why I was frightened of doing it to be honest.

If you have a 2017 Yeti then you almost certainly have an Amundsen or Bolero radio unit fitted. To answer your question, please identify your radio. A picture would help. Does it have satnavs?

Thanks Bigade1 Much appreciated.

Thanks to Bigade1 for this camera update. 😊 Can I assume that these European cameras also cover the UK.... Or are they only for mainland Europe (ie predominently EEC countries) ? My map is the latest smaller 7Gb UK/Europe version. I rarely drive abroad now. 2024/2025. Thanks.