aubrey

Any reason you just can't reach over to the passenger side and pull the lever ? I must be missing something here ? More info - in fact I've looked at some videos, yes maybe it is a bit tight with the door shut

I've heard those resistance based testers are pants. The only good ones actually boil the fluid to give you the boiling point value. Obviously they are not the cheap testers you see sold everywhere. I've no personal experience on them, just saying what I've heard.

Tried changing the voice ? Sure I had this once and a different voice sorted it.

I brought it years ago, back in 2007 I think. The older HEX-USB+CAN one, but it still does me fine. I can't remember now who I brought it from now, but it has served me well over many years. Was a few hundred pounds IIRC.

@Gymbro1976 I just Googled P0030 it said that is the primary sensor, so I'd say S1 as my VCDS would say. So it's the engine side of the catalyst. Sometimes they are accessed from above and not underneath. My Yeti S1 Lambda for example is easy change from above, far easier than the S2 underneath. Don't go changing the wrong one out of the S1 and S2.

https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-lambda-sensor-on-skoda-rapid-spaceback-nh1-replacement-guide-29830 I have 2 lambda sensors on my Yeti, S1 and S2, before and after the catalyst. Bank 1 is exhaust manifold run, so only for V engines really.

Yes maybe, you would of felt the pedal drop a lot otherwise, especially with the engine running. I'm thinking any fluid trapped by closed valves must of remained in the unit, again trapped inside due to the closed valves. So if then all the open ports would of drip refilled on replacement, coupled with the open pathways then normal bleed, then maybe. It is quite a normal procedure to have to scan tool ABS Bleed on ABS Block replacement, but that would be with new/remanufactured and crucially fluid empty ABS Units. Anyway something you can keep in mind if you ever get a garage to brake bleed, instruct them to scan tool ABS Bleed too as that is not done by default and as @Paws4Thot said confirm they understand what your asking and why, as by experience I have had many blank faces too. In an older message you mentioned about coding values. Now your original unit is back you can get an OBD scan done and save your module coding values.

Understood with the reservoir, but I meant you changed ABS unit, so was your ABS unit not full of air by being all disconnected.

That's surprising, I messed up bleeding a 2007 Roomster and let the reservoir run dry. The pedal felt terrible after a then normal bleed. It sunk right down on engine start. I had to do a VCDS ABS Bleed to restore the pedal high up as before.

Out of interest why is it bad to tow a DSG in Neutral ? I'd of thought that in neutral neither of the dual clutch input shafts would be turning, so I'm interested why it would matter ?

As you've been swapping ABS units about have you done an ABS Bleed with a scan tool ? Assume you must of as the brake pedal would of been very spongy otherwise.

Oops just reread the thread. It was tagged onto. So a brand new car. That's back to the dealer, unless you know you're doing something extra to drain it as has been mentioned.

If it's the original battery from 2018 then it's probably due replacement age wise. If buying a new battery I'd say go for AGM over EFB. AGM is better and often not much more expensive. Remember you need to code the BMS for the battery replacement, especially if changing battery type.

Sorry I don't know any specific details. My initial thoughts are it must be possible as many locksmith companies do that, also search for key cloning/programming on AliExpress and you will see units to do what you ask. I thought car keys now have rolling codes that change, so how would that work with 2 keys copied. In how would they roll codes in sync ? But sorry, as said I don't know any specific details.

In fact thinking back now I had to do two programming actions. One was to pair up the lock/unlock for the doors, the other was the immobiliser pairing to allow the key to start the car.