Derbyshirebod

Have you checked it's not a faulty starter motor ?

AmitShindore was asking the question. Using VCDS you don't "match" or just add a new fob as and when you want. The fobs have to be erased from memory so that you can reassign all the fobs you have at the same time, IIRC you can have up to 4 fobs assigned. I have assigned 3 fobs to my Superb. Earlier in the year my son bought a 2002 MK4 VW Golf with only one working Key & Fob. Using VCDS I assigned 2 fobs and also cloned the key transponder chip but you need to know the transponder PIN to do that. The original fob wasn't activating the indicator lights when locking or unlocking the car. Using VCDS I set the indicators to activate as well as turning on the the audible chirp when I re-assigned the 2 fobs to the car. You can't use VCDS to assign a new key transponder chip to VAG group cars after 2009. It's either get a locksmith clone an existing key transponder chip or a trip to the main dealers to have a new key transponder chip assigned.

Probably something that can be done using VCDS? I've used VCDS to assign different fobs to my 2012 Superb. Though I've not tried to see what functions I can active on the fobs.

So could they have been on the front and the tracking been out? Once tyres start to wear excessively it's possible for them can carry on wearing in the same attitude even after the misalignment has been corrected or the tyres have been changed to a different axel.

No 2 highly unlikely with pre engaged starter motors ring gears don't get the battering like they used to with the old bendix drive starter motors.

Soldering the wires probably won't last that long as all the cable insulations have lost their plasticity and are hard and brittle and are just going to break elsewhere and then the copper wire will work harden and also break.

Have those tyres always been on the rear ?

Only try doing the above while the car is safely parked should have said ! :-)

There seems to be some misconception by some people what the Maxidot screen rear wiper function is for. It's not for disabling or turning the rear wiper off. When the rear wiper function is selected when the front wipers are working and you select reverse the rear wiper turns on for one wipe. It makes sense really, you're in a busy car park and it's tipping it down with rain the front wipers are working you select reverse gear and then realise the rear visibility isn't great ! To save you the inconvenience of faffing around and turning the rear wiper on it's already done it :-)

Door loom damage is very very common near the hinge area, loads of posts on here about that. It's a problem right across the Auid, Seat, Skoda & VW range of cars once they get to around 10 years old. The wire insulation loses its elasticity becomes brittle cracks eventually the copper work hardens and breaks with all the movement of opening and closing the doors.

Yes you are correct the problem is caused when the rear wiper isn't parked correctly! More often than not the rear wiper bounces back up from the park position as in the the photo and then the rear wiper always activates when I start the engine! Very occasionally the rear wiper stops where it should! As in the second photo. When my rear wiper stops in this position then it never activates when I start the engine. It is a bit hit and miss but you can force the rear wiper to park correctly by putting the rear wiper switch on with the ignition on and just before the wiper reaches the bottom of it's stroke turning the ignition off and stopping the rear wiper. Then turn the rear wiper switch off. I've just learned to live with it and avoid using the rear wiper when it's parked correctly. IMHO the issue is with the rear wiper motor. Maybe there is something that can be done to the rear wiper motor to correct the problem? I thought that maybe it could be down to wear in the drive gears causing backlash. But I can't get my wiper arm to move in either direction when I try to move it by hand. So it must be something to do with the self park mechanism in the motor housing?

Air bag light might be down to damaged door loom wiring? The doors have airbag sensors in them. Damaged door loom wiring Is a common fault . Running a diagnostic scan should tell you which air bag sensor it is. I've had the airbag light come on for this reason.

Lots of threads to be found on here about damaged door loom wiring.

If it's a broken front spring quite often you'll find the top mounting breaks and you loose most of the ball bearings. You can buy a complete top mounting or just the bearing part of the mounting. If I'm not in a hurry for the parts I'll trawl Ebay. Most of the suspension parts I've recently bought are either Febi or NAPA.

JR my tow bar resembles the 3rd photo. you remove the crash bar and and slide mounting arms down inside the chassis rail as you describe. It's had an easy life so far I've not done much towing with it. Biggest thing I've towed is a 6x4 single axle plant trailer .

I bought and fitted a tow bar to my 2012 Superb 4 x 4 last year with a detachable swan neck. It doesn't swing up out of the way like the factory fitted tow bars. The instructions that came with the tow bar said it fitted both the Superb hatch back and estate as well as the Yeti. I wonder if the model fitments differ between tow bar manufacturer / tow bar design? The fitting This the Ebay listing I bought the tow bar (generic tow bar photo) which now says it doesn't fit AWD or FWD ? I do remember messaging the seller and asking if it would fit my car and they confirmed it would.

I've recently changed all the springs and shock absorbers on my 2012 2.0 4 x 4 Superb which had 180,00 on the clock when I bought it. I've only replaced with standard gas shocks but on the front I've certainly noticed a difference and the car no longer wallows on undulating roads. Started with a broken front spring, when I came to change both front springs found that neither front shock absorber had much gas left in them and were extremely lethargic. Untitled.mp4

I'm not sure that this is true but I was once told that globally there are only 4 factories that produce toothed drive belts. It's not just the belt it's also the quality of the rollers and tensioners and water pumps where they are driven by the cam belt. I personally steer clear of belt kits which have a plastic outer wheel bonded to the belt tensioner having had one come un-bonded!

If it is the clock spring 1K0959653C non OEM aren't that expensive. Will probably need coding to the car. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384488584797?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item59854e365d:g:yJkAAOSw0Cpg3rjP&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4Hd0mvrmT3nOugHvZCD%2Bfix99PARg%2FQIeB%2FXQV7PSu9SJCnX8r1yWMbBdgKM8Z%2BoveuumVG6o5GZA4YBmYGrkk1944%2FaU4x2xCQsQ4yJ%2BcSk5GgsrI464jbzjl72XILxGjXFA2O5iXAvKJfjySKCgKz8heJFqt6eaXc%2BKDLpU%2FRtumsoRfeg6O%2BrI9Q3nm41SlU3qCES4wyq7a41ViOdf5yKULzfQNM1L0czNiN5LdAPK0lk3IP0gIsO6AQwvIzF1OBoxmTWm4pFwStgQtOgE83IT9eN6gapQIRpOGA4gOfy|tkp%3ABFBMiui4pI5g

Yes you're right. But what I couldn't/ haven't figured out is why the broken front door common earth stopped the rear N/S rear door functions working. I would have thought the doors would have had their own negative feed. Which is why I was looking for wiring diagrams when I 1st got into this. The two large + - feed wires go to the door control modules which both the front doors have. So they must also control the rear doors. I don't know if the rear doors also have control modules as I've not had the door cards YET! As I mentioned in your thread I know at least one of the rear doors has wires with cracked insulation. The Haynes online manual I bought has very little wiring information other than the locations of all the earthing points.

I personally doubt you can complete an effective long term repair without removing the door cards to get access to remove enough length of the old hardened insulated cables and make a new joint away from the area of movement where the damage occurs. The cables are taped to the rubber gaiter so cant be pulled through till you've removed the tape and to do that you have pull the gaiter in through the door to cut all the tape off. I had at least one wire which was broken right down inside the gaiter as well as several damage cables. I didn't bother re-taping the new wires to the gaiter as it made it easier to slide and adjust the wire lengths to the door pillar. Yes it would have been quicker and easier buying a loom repair kit at around £30 per door. But being between jobs at the time and on a tight budget and having the time, I replaced around 240mm of all the cables on both of my front doors and made the connections where they were easy to solder and put them just behind the round door grommet where the loom goes into the door. You don't want too much excess wire inside the door as the loom passes close to the window runner there are 4 wire thin wall insulated sizes. Ø2.75mm = 2.5mm² 29 Amp Ø1.75mm = 0.75mm² 14 Amp Ø1.5mm closest I could find Ø1.6mm = 0.5mm² 11Amp Ø1.2mm closest I could find Ø1.4mm = 0.35mm² 7Amp On my Superb SE there are 13 wires on the drivers door and 11 on the front passenger door both connectors have 28 pinouts so I don't know if the higher specification cars have additional wires?

That sounds like a reasonable price. It cost me less than £30 to buy everything I needed to replace all wiring in the door hinge areas for all 4 doors though I've only done the 2 front doors. Though granted it takes longer replacing the wires than buying a new door connector repair kit at around £31 each. I've only checked one of rear doors which also has cracked insulation. As all my kids have their own cars I rarely have rear passengers these days so I'll get round to it eventually when I feel like it.

I've read somewhere here on the forum it cost £500 in a garage for someone to have their front door loom sections replaced,

You've done well to get in and do that repair in such a confined area. Like you I've found the forum search function doesn't seem very good? Google seems to do a better forum search of the forum? Though personally I think you'll have a re-occurrence at some point if not with that wire it will be with another wire breaking as others have posted in other threads. The insulation hardens and losses it's plasticity cracks and the wire work hardens until that eventually breaks due to the doors being opened and closed twisting the wires back and forth. I've replaced all the wires in the door hinge area on both front doors. The common earth to the front near side passenger door broke which meant neither of the near side door functions worked. Fortunately the wire failed with the doors unlocked so I could open the door. I found other wires that were also in poor condition. On the drivers doors one of the central locking switch wires had broken and again I found other wires in a poor condition. Also on the tailgate had to replace a length of negative feed for the same reason as the heated rear window wasn't working. It's common issue right across the VW, Skoda, Audi, Seat range with cars of this age.

You managed to program the fob to the car with the method you describe above? Programming the fob to to open & lock the car and programming immobiliser/cloning the key transducer chip are 2 separate things.