Derbyshirebod

But the Op hasn't actually stated if it's the same disk on the same side? maybe the disk has been swapped to the other side ???

The brakes would only be over heating if the caliper was seized on, not allowing the pads to release properly after braking. Though that's not to say it's not partially seized? There is only one large piston per caliper so either the piston isn't being forced out squarely or the caliper isn't floating backwards and forwards as it should? Though as someone has previously mentioned something could be damaged? Or maybe the dealers fitted 2nd hand disks and the pads haven't yet bedded to the worn faces? As clearly there isn't full brake pad contact on the disk ( Rotor as the Yanks call them) face as the rust is forming and not being cleaned away. I take it you don't do your own repairs? If not as someone else has said take the car to a small independent garage and ask them to look at it for you.

Doesn't look like you're very hard on you brakes either! 😊 It's not how fast you drive but how hard you stand on the brakes! I could understand the disks rusting like that on the rear in particular as most of the braking force goes to the front. If you're gentle on the brakes and rely on engine braking to slow you down then the rear brakes never have to do much work which can lead to rusting as the brake pads are never forced hard enough against the disks to properly clean the braking surfaces. But with the distance you're traveling everyday I wouldn't expect the brake discs to be getting that rusty that quickly! Some thing isn't quite right like the brake pad isn't being pressed flat to the disk ? Maybe you have a partially seized front brake caliper ?

The car sits outside in all weathers and you do mainly short low speed journeys ?

These are the rear disks ?

Yes I initially struggled to get the door card off ☺️ And use some proper plastic trim removal tools other wise you're likely to scratch things. You can get a very basic set for under £5 on Ebay. Lever off the little speaker cover behind the chrome door lock latch. There is one torx screw behind the speaker cover the same as the two torx screws on the lower edge of the door card. Lever up the door switch panel with all the switches in place. There are two connectors to the switches that will need disconnecting. One has a blue spring loaded tab which is a bit of a PITA to disconnect unless you use a flat bladed screwdriver. You can then access to undo and remove the two M6 torx socket bolts. There are 6 trim fixing clips round the door card. Start levering the door card off from the bottom with trim removal tools I've marked the positions on the photo I've attached. There isn't enough room even if you remove the door to replace the damage section of wires as you won't be able to pull the wires far enough out. So yes you'll have to remove the door card it so that you can cut off the old cables and be able to have enough room to solder new wires on. I removed all the wires and replaced them all with new wire adding a few more inches which I then fed inside the door. You can see in the photo where I cut the loom with tin snips and left enough cable so the cable and joints could be pulled through the rubber boot (not in the photo) into the door. I didn't bother tapping the rubber boots back on to the cables so I could pull / push them through to where I wanted them. I did bind the new cables with with some insulation tape but not inside the large corrugated rubber boot so hopefully the cables can move as they need to when the doors are opened and closed without pulling or straining at the main door pillar plug. Make sure you run the cables round the side of window channel guide. If you run the cables on the wrong side of the window guide channel the door glass will hit the wires as the glass comes down ( I wonder now I know that! 😊) The 1st time I did this I removed all the connectors from the terminal block and soldered the new wires to a small amount of wire I left coming from the connector. On reflection i don't think this is a good idea to make a joint so close to the connector as you really need the cables to flex here and I had to bend them down to get the orange connector block lock in the open position. On the second door I left a small amount of the original cable. I did buy some replacement connectors but at £5 for 10 not particular cheap IMO and then to do a proper job you need a crimping tool for around £30. I've bought enough cable of varying sizes & colours to repair all 4 doors. Though if I ever have to do this job again I'd buy cables with connectors though I couldn't find any when I was looking to repair my car!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144205914904?hash=item219357a318:g:9nQAAOSw8SthJdz9&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5336836713&toolid=10001&customid=38947X1001323X6b06f89b7ddb587bb79384b8599563e2 If you turn the ignition on with the door pillar connector disconnected it will throw up the air bag warning light and you'll have to reset it with diagnostic tools such as VCDS which I have. Though I used my very old Super Vag K + Can to reset the air bag light which I bought several years ago when I had a 2004 Seat Toledo. There is a lot of things I can't access on my Superb with this diagnostic scanner. There is a now a newer version. To attach photos to a post go to the bottom left hand side of the screen to either drag or select files from your phone or laptop. If you want to attach photos you've used before go to the bottom right and click on "Other Media" these files are usually smaller and use less memory which can be useful when you want to attach several photos and are getting close to to the limit of 10MB.

I must admit that I have found the wiring on my Superb to be rather shocking ! I've had to replace all the door loom wiring in the hinge area of the 2 front doors because of damaged / broken cables. The cable Insulation has gone brittle on most of the cables and some have then gone on to break. Which is a common failure right across the VW, Skoda, Seat range. I've also had a broken wire for the rear heated window in the tailgate hinge area. Maybe if the ABS wiring is subject to flexing you could be suffering similar?

Are you sure the problem isn't to do with the magnetic pick up rings on the back of the bearings? They could be caked in crap? Though it will mean taking the rear hubs off to have a look.

With the age of the car and from the many posts on the forum as the others have said this is a common issue. It happens right across the VW / Skoda / Seat range of cars where cables are in any hinged area. The cable insulation has got old and brittle lost its plasticity and cracked the copper wire work hardens and eventually breaks due to the doors being opened and closed. I have had this issues with both my front doors with 2 broken cables and multiple cables with damaged insulation. I've had the same problem with a broken cable to the tailgate for the heated rear window. Both the front doors have the same control unit as in the drivers side door photo I've attached. I don't know about the rear doors as I've not had those apart yet! Though I know at least one of those has cables with damaged insulation. As more than one function is being affected I would strongly suspect that the earth feed cable to the drivers door controler unit has probably already broken inside the rubber boot between the door and door pillar and is making intermittent contact hence why things work and sometimes don't. There are 13 cables varying in 4 different sizes going to the drivers door. The Ø2.5mm ( 29Amp 2.5mm²) cable brown with purple tracer is the one that's likely to have broken. It's more than likely there will be more damaged wires and it's probably wise / more cost effective in the long run to have all the wires in the door hinge area replaced. There are several options, replace the affected sections of wires as I have done. But if you're having to pay someone like a garage to do the job it's quicker and cost less in labour to use a repair kit. Wiring harness repair for all 4 door https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144205914904?hash=item219357a318:g:9nQAAOSw8SthJdz9 Plug & harness for individual doors https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185197392892?hash=item2b1e9ff3fc:g:WP8AAOSwzwphqer

Yes I was aware that Picardy is the anglicised spelling as per the Google maps snip I posted. My understanding was the memorial was for people who'd gone missing in action which is not what happened in this case. But from what you've said I'm wrong. It must have been quite a feat back in the 1930's working out how many bricks they were going to need !! Yes as you've said there is a small cemetery to the rear of the memorial though I didn't expect each cross would have had remains buried there? Though as you know there are war cemeteries littered all over France. Not just for WW1. I did email the CWGC a couple of years ago but haven't pursued it further. Clements is a very common surname (not mine) as was the name William back in the 1900's . It seems strange that on the Memorial they've not used both his initials? Which makes me question it is his name up there ? I'm hoping to go down to the Le Mans Classic again this year, a trip which has been postponed for the last years due to covid! But taking a different route down through Normandy so won't be passing that way this time.

I have no idea where you live !! But you did say you live in Picardie. 😆 I just remember checking how far it was from where my great uncle died to where he is remembered and Picardie is south of Theipval. I'm not a WW1 anorak! 😆 But I've done a fair bit of research on my family tree ☺️ He was a volunteer ! His older brother wasn't ! He told my Dad they would have to come and get him! I know from military records he died on the Somme. I don't fully understand why he is one of the 70,000 who disappeared in battle remembered on the Thepival Memorial? The family were told he had an arm blown off taking supplies up to the front line which isn't stated anywhere. His military records state "died of his wounds". My brother has a friend who is a WW1 anorak who's explanation is that he probably died in a field hospital and then buried next to it. For which there doesn't seem to be any records? The fighting continued and the Germans advanced and his grave was then behind enemy lines. So no we don't know exactly where his remains are but I would have thought he should have had his own cross?

Have you checked the anti roll bar bushes? They were worn almost oval on my sons old Seat Ibiza which has the same style of suspension. And is the same as a VW Polo IIRC. The anti roll bar had moved over to one side and was catching on a sub frame mounting. My Grandma lost a brother in Picardie in December 1916. I'm assuming it was during the battle of the Somme? He is remembered on the Theipval Memorial a bit further north of you. I was there back in 2018 the only family to have visited.

That's my mistake saying "anti dive". On checking the MOT history yes you're right the last 4 MOT's were carried out at the same garage. Looks like the MOT tester likes checking anti roll bar drop link ball joints! In 2019 the car must have had 1 front and 1 rear drop link changed as they were advisories on the 1st MOT which it failed and then not mentioned on the re-test 4 days later? I can't say I noticed any play in the 2 rear linkage ball joints I changed the other day though admittedly I didn't check them on the car with a lever. As previously posted I've also recently changed both front drop links one of which had play in a ball joint. Though can't remember which side it was now? The only suspension related noise I could hear was after the front drivers side spring broke which also damaged the top bearing. When I changed both front suspension springs I found both gas dampers were very lethargic so changed them as well. At +180,000 miles not really surprising. Untitled.mp4

J.R not sure what you mean 🤔

I was checking my MOT history and there was an advisory on the 2021 MOT "Offside Rear Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint has slight play" and going right back to 2017 except for 2018 there were futher advisories for play in both nearside & offside rear anti dive linkage ball joints. For the sakes of £13.95 I decided to change both.

Finally all the door functions for the nearside doors are now restored 😊 I've replaced a section of around 200mm of each of the cables even though not all of them were damaged I figured it was likely it might not be long before they did as the insulation was stiff and hard. After soldering the 29 amp earth and positive cables I decided not to use anymore heat shrink solder sleeve connectors at the plug end as they stiffen up the cables by increasing the insulation thickness which I didn't think was a good idea in the door hinge area where the cables are constantly flexing. So I soldered the remaining 14amp, 11amp and 7amp wires and used thinner heat shrink.

No I don't think they are. Though he didn't actually state which Superb they were for so assumed a MK3.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174916577511?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda&hash=item28b9d728e7:g:h74AAOSwHCthzSA5

I've no longer got a garage to work in so at the mercy of the weather. There was a lull in the weather this morning the wind dropped and briefly stopped raining so went out and took the nearside front passenger door card off and cut the connector off so I can replace all the cables. As with drivers door 7 damaged cables one of which was broken. Which is the main earth to the door control module

Both drivers side doors are working. I never noticed what effect the broken wire to the drivers door central locking switch had 🤔 as i use the key remote. All the doors were working when I bought the car back in September.

Why doesn't the LH front passenger door not working not make sense? The main earth wire is broken as in the photo. The window and neither does the mirror work or any of the illuminated door switches. Why the rear passenger door lock or window don't work is less clear but I've not looked at that yet. Having wiring diagrams would have been helpful hence buying the Haynes online manual which unfortunately doesn't have wiring diagrams 😞 Both offside doors functions work. I've already replaced all 13 wires on the drivers door loom as previously detailed in this thread. Out of the 13 wires 7 had damaged insulation one of these was also broken. Which was one of the wires going to the central locking switch. The cable insulation has lost its plasticity on most of the cables it seems. I've now found the reason for the heated rear window not working another broken wire where the tailgate hinges. I had to pull of all the foam stuck to the wire to find it. I've now repaired that wire with a fresh length of cable in the area where it bends and put it inside some small diameter corrugated cable tidy. There are more wires on the LH side of the tailgate and there is less room for the cables which are all tapped to the corrugated washer feed pipe so I'm assuming none of these wires are damaged because the can't flex as much? Hence my reasoning for using the cable tidy on the other side.

I've still got the same issue with both N/S doors not working. Though have now found the earth cable to the N/S front door has broken. Can also see the positive cable insulation is cracked. I can understand why none of the door functions aren't working but why would that affect all the rear door functions? I've not checked the wiring for that door yet. It would be good to have sight of detailec wiring diagrams.

I'm not sure you've got a turbo issue? You said you had the actuator replaced so there could have been an error code related to that? You might have a new issue? You need to have the error codes read again.

What was the error code? You mean this problem happens when you select reverse gear? I wouldn't have thought that when reversing there would be sufficient engine revs for the turbo to be generating any boost?

I can't see any wiring diagrams other than for grounding points, fuses & relay locations which isn't very accurate. Wasted my money IMO buying an online manual.