Derbyshirebod

14 year old timing belt !!! that was well past running on borrowed time !!! Any wonder it hadn't snapped! like tyres they deteriorate with age as well as wearing. I'd go and buy a lottery ticket and see if you've got any luck left? 😊

Yes that would have been an old mechanical high pressure fuel pump / governor. I've never had an issue with changing fuel filters on modern common rail VW, Seat or Skoda engines. I know Mondeo and Focus DCi's are a PITA to bleed!

Sorry if this has already been covered? I never have much luck with the forum search function! Google seems to do a better search of this forum! I see others have asked where the Rear Heated Window relay is located but no one seems to have found the answer ? Haynes says it's found at the side of the AC relay in the left hand side of the engine compartment for LHD models. I can't see these relays on either side of the engine compartment? The engine has to be running to allow the RHW switch to be operated so I can't hear if there is a relay clicking anywhere when I do turn the switch on. I'm looking for the relay because the rear heated window isn't working. The element passes a continuity test but it's getting no voltage.

I just changed my filter never bothered filling up the filter bowl though it was still half full with diesel and the car started fine. These cars have a low pressure fuel pump so it's not usual to have problems after a fuel filter change. Something like my sons Ford Focus was a total PITA after changing the fuel filter as it doesn't have a low pressure fuel pump to get the fuel up to the engine.

It wasn't a 5 minute job taking the seat covers off! The front seat covers took ages to get off!

One of my sons bought a 2008 BMW 320D about 3 years with the infamous N47 diesel engine which he should have never bought! But that's another story! So after the cam chain had broken! We took the engine out and repaired it. The car had done around 120,000 miles at the time. There wasn't anything to say there was anything wrong with the clutch but on checking the clutch friction plate it was quite worn and only had a few more 1000 miles left in it. Not to change it would have been a false economy. I also found the DMF that had an excessive amount play in it. To get them tested properly they need to go on a test rig. But as a rough rule of thumb using the ring gear as a reference there shouldn't be more than 3 teeth of rotation in either direction. We had around 5 teeth of movement in either direction! Bearing in mind the engine repair had already cost several £100 and there was no guarantee the engine was going to be okay I was mindful of throwing good money after bad the DMF alone was about £400! without a clutch! £180 for a clutch and solid flywheel conversion seemed a much more attractive proposition! On asking round there were mixed opinions if it was worth doing or not. Some people said it could lead to premature gear box failure, excessive vibration etc etc. So I decided to buy a solid flywheel and clutch kit. You can see in the video that the DMF is quite a substantial lump of metal and heavy, the solid flywheel is even heavier! The other flywheel you can see is for a 5.0 Ford Mustang. I wished we'd replaced the DMF! The engine repair was a success and 3 years on still running strong. But a certain revs usually in 2nd gear accelerating there is quite a lot of vibration and on tick over it sounds like a bag of spanners till you depress the clutch. So personally I'd never bother with another solid flywheel conversion. DMF Excess Play.mp4

Yep easy to clean deposits of bodily fluid from. Not so comfortable if you sit on them too long as they don't breath! Couldn't use the rear center arm rest either.

I have my suspicions that mine was used as taxi. I got some paperwork with the car and some of the invoices for spare parts were addressed to a business. When I Googled it came back as a private car taxi firm. Also the car had vinyl seat covers which I thought were covering up damaged / worn seats. On removing the covers I found the black suede leather seats are in quite good condition despite the high mileage of the car. When I said that neither of the N/S door functions work that wasn't strictly true as today I've checked and both the N/S door speakers are working. When I bought the car the N/S door mirror was working as were the doors locking.

So it's not the reverse switch. It could be the the module as suggested? Must admit I don't know where that is. Though maybe you have a faulty bumper sensor? You could do with a diagnostic session with VCDS. You're too far from me to help you with that.

Are the reverse lights working?

If your tyres were under inflated then I'd expect you to see both the edges of the tyres to be showing wear. If there is wear in the track rod ends or track rod inner ball joints then you'd expect there to be wear on the inside edge of the tyres. When the car is driven the force on the tyres is trying to make the wheels "Toe Out" which would be made worse by any wear in the ball joints. Though only if these components are worn on both sides? More often than not you'll only have excessive wear in one ball joint so the excess tyre wear will be on the inside edge of the tyre on that side of the vehicle. Also if the lower ball joints had excessive wear then the lower part of the wheel will get pushed out increasing negative camber so there is more contact against the road of the bottom inner edge of the tyre. Again both lower ball joints would both have to have similar amounts of excess wear for there to be uniform excess wear on the inner edges of both the front tyres. BUT as you've said it's the outer edges of the tyres that are wearing so none of the above applies. You've also said you've had the tracking adjusted on more than one occasion. I'd hazard a guess that at some point the tracking has been incorrectly set to "Toe In" too much causing the outside tyre edges to wear. If you always go to the same garage maybe they never set it quite correctly? Though once a tyre starts to wear excessively it's not always possible to stop the wear, even if the tracking is set correctly. If you've just had the tracking adjusted again and it's correct? I'd be inclined to swap the front wheels to the back and monitor the tyre wear. I wouldn't be wanting to put new tyres on the car to find the problem still exists.

That's about 240mm of each of the 13 cables replaced in the drivers door loom. The 2 N/S doors still have none of the functions working. So now on to the next door!

Before I started I checked for error codes and found 4 one for each door. The 2 intermittent ones cleared and the 2 for the passenger doors remained.

So the broken wire went to the central locking switch so I never noticed which door wasn't locking / unlocking as I tend to use the remote. Out of the 13 wires that go to the drivers door 7 were damaged including the broken wire which had additional cracking to the insulation which felt brittle. On the two largest 2.5mm² wires you can see marks where I assume they have been rubbing against others wires. I guess the wiring to the other 3 doors will be in a similar condition.

IMHO checking a cam belt at 5 years is pointless! CHANGE IT! and rollers, tensioner and for the an engine with a cam belt driven water pump that as well for what little extra cost it is. At best a visual check will only let you see if the belt is contaminated with engine oil or maybe fuel. If its got visible damage then it's not likely to last much longer. To check the condition of the water pump, rollers, cam belt tensioner the cam belt has to be taken off to be able to check for float in the bearings and spun to try and hear if there is any bearing noise in any of those parts. But it's not an infallible check. Unless you're capabale of doing such work yourself by the time you've paid a garage to do a complete check you might as well get the cam belt and all the other parts that go with it changed at the end of the day it's a serviceable item . Last November it cost me £70.0 for a Gates cam belt kit with water pump, 2 rollers, cam belt tensioner, new nuts, bolts & studs for my MK2 Superb 2.0 TDi which is a very similar engine to one that's the subject of this thread. For that sort of money change it and hopefully you'll have at least 4 years peace of mind.

The white powder you're talking about looks like corrosion? If it was in the UK it would probably down to road grit used in the winter.

If it was that far out wouldn't the cam shaft sensor be throwing up an warning light / error code ?

Giving up isn't something I hate doing with cars ...... It's easier to walk away from a troublesome woman ! 😅 There are times even I know when to quit ! :-) Going back to this threads original subject my Superb MK2 2.0 TDi CFGB engine cam belt layout in the photo is much different to the Superb MK3 2.0 TDi EA288, DFHA engines?

I'd bought this 2004 1.9 TDi 150bhp Seat Toledo with 180,000 on the clock and put a new cam belt kit on it as soon as I got. The kit didn't come with a water pump but the pump seemed fine no play or unusual noises when turned by hand. Everything was fine until about 250,000. Going home one day I noticed the engine was getting hot and you could smell coolant. Pulled over and could see steam coming from the cam belt cover. I went and bought a container of water from the 1st shop I came to. I should have called the recovery company at that point! Topped the car with water and set of again and a few miles later could hear a horrendous whirring and then a bang and the engine stopped! I later found the bang was a lump of the water pump toothed drive pulley breaking loose and throwing itself into the belt. I guess the pump bearing had started to fail and damaged the water pump seal as the pump shaft gradually turned further out of true making it leak. Eventually the pulley had a lump broken out of it as it jammed against the pump body causing the cam belt to jump several teeth. With the engine timing lost the engine stopped. On getting home took the engine covers off to find what you can see in the video. Unsure if the engine was badly damaged I went and bought a cheap pattern pump water pump for about £20 IIRC. Reset the engine used the old chewed up belt! The engine started straight away I quickly reved it up once and all was okay. I then went and bought and new timing belt kit fitted it and got another 40,000 miles or so before scrapping the car. Toledo Cam Belt.mp4

I had changed the roller & tensioner on the Ibza at the same time so wasn't expecting anything to go wrong ! 😅 Though as you've previously mentioned some none OEM parts are of a questionable quality. Though some none OEM supplied parts are made by the same manufacturers who supply OEM just not allowed to use the car manufacturers logos or part numbers. I finally found the video of the Seat Toledo 1.9 TDi PD water pump that failed. I'm pretty sure that this water pump is the same or at least very similar as the one I've recently changed on my MK2 Superb? The cam belt is a different length and there are more rollers but the basic engine design is very similar. Toledo Water Pump.mp4

Yep T reg was 1978 -1979 on the old suffix series and then there was the prefix 1999 T & V reg I owned a 1977-1978 S reg MK2 Escort RS2000 for 18 years! Wish I never sold it!

Sorry my bad I'm talking out of my backside ! It was a 3 cylinder engine 1198cc 47KW 64HP AZQ I changed the cam chain and tensioner on in my son's Ibiza. We bought it as a none runner because it had a cam chain issue. The seat Arosa he had before that had the 4 cylinder 1.0 AUC which I thought was an under bored 1.4 AUD engine which were both called MPi and assume were pretty much the same as his had a 1.4 MPi air box on it when we bought it. Which again I've made an assumption that it's the same as the Fabia 1.4 ?

I had no reason to check it really as I'd changed the cam belt some 3 years earlier when I 1st bought the car. I wasn't excepting the tensioner roller outer to come un-bonded ! though since I've read about this kind of failure of plastic outer rollers bonded to steel inner rollers.

That's not the same chain as I changed in my sons 2014 1.4 Ibiza . It was a single chain not a duplex.

How many miles has the car done ? You say it's down on power? The lambda error codes might be an indication of something not being quite right ? Have you checked the air filter isn't filthy? Have checked and looked at the spark plugs? Neither of those two checks cost anything. Though maybe a compression check might be an idea. It sounds very much like there is a hydraulic lifter/tappet rattle in which case a valve or some valves aren't opening fully ? My son had the a Seat Arosa with the 1.0 engine the same as your 1.4 single camshaft. Someone mentioned cam chain rattle but as far as I'm aware that's the twin cam shaft 1.4 and that was down to a poor cam chain tensioner design. So there was an updated tensioner and if not changed when the rattling could become terminal when the engine timing got lost when the chain jumped!