classic

Sounds good, it will certainly stand out in that colour !

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Rr296, if you’re really unlucky a stone or similar has damaged the condenser when you were driving it on day one or two. Otherwise a fault or manufacturing defect will be covered by warranty - annoying but it happens and the fact it will then be repaired for free is one of the main reasons for buying a new car.

They have to eat their own **** and it doesn’t them any good. EGR, DPFs, regens which in my opinion are insane - how is burning extra fuel to turn soot into ash a good thing regarding reducing emissions ? If it isn’t successful it will keep trying on other journeys, washing oil off the bores and even diluting the oil with fuel. And just in case there isn’t enough to go wrong there’s the ad blue system….

I’m not that keen on suv type vehicles but it is a fact as you get older they are definitely easier to get in and out of. To keep on topic of ev the Skoda Enyaq is the most comfortable and easy to get out of car I have ever driven. I absolutely love the Superb, but they are low. Engine wise, I know many disagree, but I wouldn’t touch a euro 6 tdi from any manufacturer with a barge pole.

To be honest it’s all the tech touch screen crap and lane assist etc that I don’t like on new cars. I got a 2022 Superb 1.5 se estate last year (also well over 6ft myself!) specifically to get the newest low mileage car I could afford with the minimum driver aid equipment. My intention is to keep it long term.

Come on Graham, I just used the fact I know 2 people who have purchased brand new petrol engined Fabias this year to illustrate such powered vehicles can still be bought. If they wanted bigger they could have bought Octavia’s or another larger model with petrol or diesel engines.

I haven’t personally tried to buy a new car recently. But Skoda wise, 2 of my friends have bought new Fabia 1.0 petrols in last 3 months. Toyota have been hybrid based for well over a decade and well ahead of any European legislation.

I think as long as the central fleet of cars and vans, excluding the PMs Range Rover, (which I guess is armoured and needs the potential to go a long way for a long time very fast) is electrified by 2027 as the government stated it will be then this isn’t yet a story. There isn’t really any pressure yet on Joe Public to buy an EV, it’s coming in 2030 but currently you buy whatever you like. In fact, the over £40k tax thing is making many EVs undesirable. Presumably government fleets are planned over periods of years and it would be wasteful to change them early, we also don’t know what agreements are in place on the current fleets or when they were agreed. Also I guess they will have to install their own chargers between now and 2027.

Yes, it’s a long time since I did wheel alignments (pre steering angle sensors !). But it seems it is a part of the process to recalibrate it. You did do this but not as part of the alignment when the equipment was on and the wheels all in the exact positions. You wouldn’t need to be far out for the computer to now think the steering wheel is straight when it’s actually a degree off to one side. Maybe that causes it to apply some force to the electric power steering or effects the electric diff system, I’m guessing here but they are extremely complex systems.

The steering angle sensor adjustment is definitely a thing to do as part of a wheel alignment/geometry adjustment. Here’s an example, but there’s also hunter training videos online which show it.

Ok, could it be as simple as the steering angle sensor needing to be recalibrated ? If the alignment has been done correctly with the steering wheel centred it may now need the steering angle sensor to be calibrated so the traction control and steering systems know the steering wheel position.

Could it be a brake binding and pulling it slightly to one side ? It seems that numerous alignment checks are saying it’s ok but it is pulling right against the camber of the road. Does it have lane assist which needs recalibration ?

Holy smoke, just read the whole thread. Looks like it was driven into the sea sometime before you got it. Excellent refurb - You deserve a medal.

Just put him on the ignore list Graham. This forum has been so much nicer for me since I did.

SOLD

Link to auto trader ad https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202501208220223?sort=price-asc&searchId=28c94e39-543e-4c69-b691-81a560251b10&make=MINI&postcode=LN6 8HS&advertising-location=at_cars&fromsra

Make & Model: Mini Cooper 1.6 petrol 3 door Colour: Red Mileage: 106891 miles Price: £575 Description: Selling for a family member. 2008 Mini Cooper 1.6 petrol eu4, 6 speed gearbox. Runs and drives ok. MOT until 17th Nov 2025. Bodywork is dented in quite a few places and lacquer is peeling off some areas. It looks a lot better in the pictures than real life. 3 tyres are 3 to 4 mm and the n/s/r tyre is new. Bought as a stop gap last year and it has been in regular daily use - we’ve done 9,000 miles in 6 months or so without any issues. It does use oil (it’s a Mini !). Had a full service including spark plugs in July 2024, the garage servicing it reported a small crack in the radiator, oil leaks from cam cover gasket and drive shaft seals. The previous owner had a new battery fitted in 2024. It sailed through its mot only needing a bulb and the headlight lenses restoring. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: Full service July 2024, no previous history. Extras: Chrome line exterior, front fog lights, interior lights pack Shipping: n/a Collection: Yes, from LN6 or NG13 Pictures: <attach as many or as few as you want within the limits>

Brexit means Brexit 😀.

You don’t need to code a new battery - it will obviously work and provide power to the car - but unfortunately with the battery management and charging systems on these cars it should be coded. If you don’t do it the car will treat the new battery like it was the old battery and that could be detrimental to the service life of that new battery. Do or do not, as Yoda would say. Happy new year 🥳

Welcome, all the best fixing the vRS 👍

I think the answer is to take it to a big motoring world garage and tell them to fix it, leave the negotiations over hourly rate and whether to repair or replace between them and warranty 2000.

It is totally subjective and individual to any given persons back. I actually had years of back trouble whilst driving and most Japanese cars and Vauxhalls will cause me great discomfort after 30 minutes. I actually only started getting Skodas after my employer got them at work and I did a long journey in an Octavia and had no back pain. Personally I have found most VW group cars and Fords I am ok with, also some Renaults are ok. Most of the Asian manufacturers vehicles cause me issues which is a shame as it has ruled out a number of vehicles which I like or would be ideal for me. As duncs1961 proved with the sel and sportline difference I won’t buy a car now unless I’ve had a long test drive of over 1 hour continuous driving.

Interesting thing I’ve found on my 1.5 tsi act superb with a dq200 7speed dsg - If I put the gearbox in S mode it doesn’t want to coast and, although it holds onto a lower gear for longer, it will go into 2 cylinder mode more than when in normal D or E mode. Not a scientific test but it returns the same mpg on my regular journey in S as it does in D but feels a lot nicer to drive.

https://www.skoda.co.uk/buy/ev-buying-changes Looks like you buy them directly from Skoda and the delivery/handover is done at your selected dealer.