classic

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

30 seconds on google later : https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/219429-just-got-rid-of-my-20ltr-this-week/ Everything has its issues unfortunately.

Welcome, your new car looks great.

I have found with mine (albeit a 1.5 with dq200 7 speed) that any situation where you need a decent response, put it in S mode. I tend to put mine in S when approaching particularly busy roundabouts, the throttle response is a lot better and it will drop 1 or 2 gears quicker than in D.

Well I read it, thanks for the link. My take is they are all very very close to each other with Aral, Mobil 1, and Castrol just edging to be the top 3, VW long life just slightly behind them and Fuchs getting some good individual results. In other words if it meets the spec it is perfectly good oil, if it makes you feel better then go for Aral, Mobil, Castrol or Fuchs and if you go to the dealer their oil is fine too. Not seen Aral in the UK, it is probably branded as Lidl orAsda ….😁

You could say that, but would have to gloss over the failure risks of dual mass flywheels, ad blue systems, dpf’s, and coolant pump failures on a tdi manual. The fact is all modern cars are sh*te. You gave the best reason I’ve read on here for doing anything with a car, which is getting a manual gearbox model as it better suits your needs for manoeuvring a boat trailer.

Coolant pump fault would be my guess.

I had 16” Michelin cross climates on my Octavia estate and they were excellent. Good in the wet and cold and were good enough for me in snow, I wasn’t going through drifts but did go over some snow covered roads in the Peak District and they coped very well. I’ve had winter tyres before and aren’t bothering again too much faff swapping and storing wheels for the minimum extreme weather we ever get. I want to get a set of cross climates for my Superb which I got earlier this year but the current Michelin summer tyres won’t wear out in time for this winter, but next year I’ll definitely change to cross climates.

Welcome back, can’t beat a Skoda Superb 👍

Sadly VAG do now use a wet cambelt as the 2025 VW Transporter uses the Ford Transit diesel engine.

This is the lowest I ever went when I had an Enyaq. Timed to perfection as I parked up at home 😁

Whatever, I don’t even know why I get involved sometimes. Back to my normal life, see ya later 😀

That is what it is supposed to do, it will do this in any mode even Sport mode. If the engine is under light enough load and various conditions are met it will go into 2 cylinder mode. I have this engine and the changeover from 4 cylinder to 2 cylinder and back again is imperceptible to the driver, to the point that without the eco symbol or “ 2 cylinder mode “ words being displayed the driver wouldn’t know it was doing it. I’m sorry but I don’t see what the problem with all of this is ?

This thread has to be a wind up.

Excellent work, good for another 200k km !

Nothing new there, I’ve read all the search engine stuff before - the clutches (particularly pre 2018) might wear out or judder just like all clutches on manual cars, and there is a plethora of specialists nationwide who are available to replace them. I thought from the post I quoted there was some doomsday issue.

I don’t think Skoda/VW are unique in not wanting to pay for things out of warranty, yet we all still buy cars. But what is the issue with the dry clutches on dq200 gearboxes, I still don’t know ?

What exactly is the problem with dq200 dry clutches ?

My rule of thumb with any modern car is that 10 years or 150,000 miles is their reasonable, not too much trouble, lifespan. After 10 years there are lots of parts that die due to age. After 150,000 there are parts that are just worn out. I’m not saying an older or very high mileage car won’t give good service but you’ve got to expect to spend more on repairs.

1.5 tsi. That was my choice but isn’t on your list. 40+ average mpg, very little maintenance required compared to a diesel. phev is pointless, you’re just buying an overly complex worst of both worlds vehicle.

It will be difficult to say if the wires are the original fault or maybe it did need the new turbo but the wire was damaged by being trapped when they fitted the new turbo ? At least you have done well to find this damaged wire.

Could be. Certainly needs sorting out, I wonder how it was caused ?

Welcome 😁

Does anyone know why that advice of putting the new ones on the rear is given ? I would rotate the tyres earlier so all 4 need replacing at the same time but if the fronts are worn out and the rears are ok, just put the new pair on the front and replace the rears whenever they wear out.

They genuinely don’t know…..