classic

I have recently bought a 2022 Superb estate (1.5 tsi dsg) and whilst it won’t be a taxi I will be doing 20k miles a year in it. I do use taxis a lot as well and one of the firms around me has several Superbs including a few new ones in the last year, they have some manual and some dsg. I’d say they make an excellent taxi, loads of rear legroom and massive boot. Rooted is on a one man crusade against dsg, I based my choice on speaking to actual users who were going colossal mileages with no problems. There are plenty of things to go wrong with dsg if you’re unlucky, so a manual would be a safer bet for long term reliability but you are the person in the seat that has to drive it all day or all night long. There are also plenty of things to go wrong with dpf, adblue, dual mass flywheel etc. At least, unlike electric at the moment, there are established places that know how to fix them if they do fail. Hopefully a taxi driver on here with one will give some views.

What is the reason for bumping this Rooted ? You are like the Grim Reaper when it comes to dsg faults.

Still in place, just doing the same thing on a used Superb, took the pcp to get 2 years warranty, 2 x services, 2 x mot and 2 years European breakdown cover.

Is it just at idle ? Sounds a bit like the noise of a worn dual mass flywheel, I know the dsg petrols have them but not sure about manuals. I don’t know that the oil they use (0w20 ?) is necessarily thin, it just is able to be thinner at lower temps - someone will give chapter and verse on this…

Not a tactical thing to encourage second hand ev purchases then.

Owners of EVs are going to pay from 2025 as well I believe….

Looks like a really nice car 👍

SOLD. 😀

Joined the club. 👍

100,000 miles. Rolled over yesterday (nearly missed it !) 😀.

I actually did research how they work and what is involved to repair them, hence was happy to get one.

The thing is Rooted, if you look for ultimate reliability then you’ll never get anything except maybe a 20 year old Toyota Corolla base model with manual gearbox that has been dry stored from new ! My overall point to Diljit was that if you’re worried about dsg reliability then get a manual. I wouldn’t single out one type of dsg (2020 onwards) as worse than another.

Maybe so, but there’s a lot of 1.0 dsg across the various models.

Interesting, I’ve been on the lookout for one of the last Superbs as well. I was looking at various different engines and gearboxes and had an underlying vibe from threads on here that the 7 speed dry clutch was to be avoided. However I’ve ended up put pen to paper on a 1.5 dsg estate. I’m no longer in the trade but I was a VW Audi technician many years ago and I’ve read up as much as I can on dsg gearboxes and particularly the dry clutch version - which is the most common one - and I really can’t see any reason to avoid it, more than any other dsg, other than it is more likely to wear the clutches out sooner than a wet clutch version, but that’s really only an issue if you’re going into mileage well over 100 k. The system is basically 2 clutch plates, one each side of a central drive plate and from what I’ve seen if you drive one correctly it shouldn’t be any worse than a manual clutch. The dry clutch assembly looks reasonably straightforward to replace (obviously by someone who’s experienced at doing it) if it did wear out. There seem to issues with the gearboxes on earlier versions but the latest ones appear to be reliable. There’s definitely posters in the Octavia forum running taxis with high mileages on 7 speed dsg dry clutch boxes. I’m happy to be corrected (I’ve already bought one though !) but I’m hoping that they are actually ok 😬.

I don’t know or have access to the the part numbers unfortunately. I would be willing to bet that 90% of garages doing this job wouldn’t replace them, and would impact gun them on and off…. If it was me I would reuse them once and not lose a minutes sleep. But, this is the internet, so cue someone to tell me all about the properties of such and such steel bolts rated to x or y Newton metres etc etc. There is no fun in driveway repairs in winter. I’m with you on that, the older I get the less inclined I am to kneel down and lay under cars ! (except on a nice warm day when maybe I don’t need the car for a couple of days 😀.) My car is doing about 20k a year and I did a service early and got it MOTd in August so I get to service it and pre mot it myself in the summer and do any jobs. Then usually in Jan or Feb it needs another service which I get done at a vag specialist so it keeps some official service history going and gets a good look over by a pro on a ramp. If mine needed discs and pads now, I’d take it in and avoid the cold.

On my 2015 1.4 tsi the torque settings for the bolts holding the calliper to the carrier is 35 Nm. I got brembo discs and pads from Euro car parts and they came with new caliper bolts. The torque setting for the larger bolts that hold the carrier onto the wheel bearing housing are 90 Nm + 90 degrees. On mine there was no need to remove the carrier to get the disc off. I believe some 2017 onwards cars may have a different disc and that does need the carrier removing. The manual does state replace if removed, luckily I didn’t have to.

Surely the ev drive does come into the mpg figure. You still have to pay money for the electricity you put in that increases the mpg or propels it along if you did the whole year of short journeys never using the engine.

99,000 came up this morning, should hit 100k around Valentines Day.

Interesting. The 2.0 tsi superb sportline was pretty good on fuel then ? Back of an envelope calculations, looking at your real world figures, assuming super unleaded costs £1.45/litre the 2.0 tsi cost £12.92 to do the 100 mile journey. The IV costs about £10.81 in petrol plus £1.00 for the full charge at home, which is £11.81 to travel the 100 mile journey, so £1.11 less for the 100 mile journey. My 2015 Octavia 1.4 tsi is averaging 42.9 mpg (real world calculations) on normal unleaded. Assuming the current price of £1.38/litre mine costs £14.62 to travel the 100 mile journey so an IV would be £2.81 less for the 100 mile journey.

It was easy to bleed it normally. I know the manual says to vacuum fill it but I filled it slowly, and ran the engine. Checked all the pipes to the turbo and charge air cooler got hot etc. rechecked it the next day and it needed a small top up and since then the level hasn’t moved off max. Before anyone tells me why it should be vaccum filled, I don’t care, it has done 12,000 miles since and no problems.

The actual pump part is alloy. Once I got it off I could see it was actually leaking from the impeller seal and then running along and appearing more or less where yours is.

I fitted a new water pump to mine last year for pretty much the same leak. I fitted a new genuine Skoda water pump which is the whole thing including thermostats and housing. I paid £243.80 inc vat for the pump, belt and 5 litres of premixed coolant. You can buy just the pump part from motor factors but I decided it was better to just change the whole thing as it all has to come off anyway. It isn’t too bad of a job which took me about 2 hours. You have to remove the battery and battery tray and air intake pipe to the turbo to get access and you need to use a torque wrench to put the correct tension on the belt. couple of pics from when it was apart, 3rd photo is the old pump with the belt cover removed ;

They are definitely cheaper than the rest. £19k definitely gets a 2021 estate with 36 k miles.

I haven’t seen any reports of a failed timing belt on any of the 1.0, 1.2, 1.4 or 1.5 tsi engines. I certainly haven’t read about any on here but if someone can quote one then fair enough.