mccririck

I disagree about the tyres. My Pirellis were fine down to about 4oC which is what you'd expect for summer tyres. You just need to take more care at lower temps - you cant just plant the throttle and expect everything to be fine. Also the fronts lasted 29,500 miles. Got Continentals on the front now which I think feel better but maybe just because they have new tread.

Didn't know there was a rubber matt for the boot. Sounds good.

I haven't bothered with protective foil for the infotainment screen. Mine still seems fine. Mud flaps sounds like a good idea. Probably makes it look better too. I'm not sure what PPF means. It's not the top thing in a google search that's for sure. Clarification needed here. I use my phone rather than a USB key. Less hassle and can add albums to it easier.

My 12V battery is due to get changed in two weeks time and I'm not confident it's going to solve the problem. I suspect a wiring/circuitry issue. I had a similar problem with a Ford Transit Courier a few years ago and it ended up being a wiring problem which took them a while to fix. Skoda are not being very helpful as they seem to be saying because there is no error code they can't do anything. All that tells me is the problem isn't generating an error code, not that there is no error/problem!

Yeah is there?

Opening the bonnet doesn't. When my 12V battery is flat and I'm using a booster pack the bonnet is open, and it just seems random whether the engine starts when I turn the minimum battery level up. This afternoon it had gone flat again and so I used the booster on it and got the ignition on with no warnings, had the battery level cranked right up, had it in drive in sport mode, and I had to take it for a drive along the street to get the engine going. Usually I have to close the bonnet after using the booster pack - I don't think the engine has ever started with the bonnet open.

Sometimes the engine starts if you go into the mode menu, select hybrid and then set the minimum battery charge. Sometime the engine doesn't start until you actually drive off. Surely there's some way of forcing it to start without going for a drive?

Mine had the firmware updated and it improved nothing.

Where can you purchase Focal BAM?

West End in Dunfermline.

Absolutely sick of this car now and certainly wouldn't buy a Skoda after this. Dealer says because there's no error code getting thrown up Skoda doesn't want to know. ****ing ****e.

I've never heard clicking on my PHEV

Why anyone would want CDs in a car nowadays is beyond me. Rip your CDs to FLAC files and store them on your phone or a USB flash drive. On your phone you can use the app USB Audio Pro and get very good EQ options far more precise than the car has.

I'm jump starting mine with a battery powered jump starter at least once a week now. It's booked in at the dealer for 8th April. Battery goes flat when I have a door or boot open for any length of time or sit in the car with the ignition off. It NEVER gives a 12V battery low warning before it happens though. It does give the warning sometimes when I start driving but never when I need to know. Can the warning only show when the ignition is on? If so that's a pretty serious flaw.

Yes it's booked in at a Skoda dealer again. I'm just tryinmg to understand the problem. In the mean time I'll keep the ignition on.

I see. So basically always have ignition on when not driving? This seems a very silly design flaw. Also the 12V battery low warning is not reliable as it has never warned me before it's gone flat.

Have others not said that there is? What does the DC to DC converter do?

I'm not sure how you would go about doing that.

Happened again today. Must be something to do with the DC to DC converter circuitry as it still had 9% hybrid battery left. Also if I leave the ignition on it doesnt seem to happen. But if I sit in the car with the ignition off for any length of time or even have it unlocked messing about in the boot for a while or whatever it just dies. Seems like a terrible flaw in the circuitry design.

I've been considering the Miofive dashcam. Not sure whether to get just the front cam or the rear as well. The rear comes with a 6m long cable that plugs into the front cam, but how would I route it?

Same age as the car. 1 year and 5 months. 33k miles.

And the battery is flat again...

Car was at the dealer yesterday to look at the 12V battery issue. They say they identified a problem with some modules drawing too much current, and xdid a software update. We shall see if that fixes the problem...

It's probably a frequency response issue. And the tone controls are not capable of tuning it to a fine enough degree. Ideally we'd have a parametric IQ option. Or at least a 10 band equaliser. I use the USB Audio Pro which has parametric IQ to play music from my phone. I think I dip 3 and 4kHz a bit and boost 1kHz slightly Would be I tested to hear if others have found any other adjustments helpful.

It's possible they could improve the charging software like that but clearly it was either a lie or they don't understand the problem properly. It's not good enough really being in the situation where you don't have full confidence in your car's reliability.