Athrx

Do you get any other faults in the module? Memory works only if completely clear of any faults, even if historical. After that, SET, then 1/2/3 should store position. Mirrors will work even with the seat broken. If neither works you may have other problems

For anyone still looking for some good leds, there's sinoparcel d3s on amazon. They happen to match the led drl strip pretty well and they were £45 2 years ago when i put them in my superb. Smart light assist works just as well in cutting out the beam for the cars ahead, no beam pattern issues and passed every mot

There is no fail condition for xenon headlights converted to led. Only for halogen to xenon or led. Provided the replacement led is of good quality and passes all the beam alignment tests then the only fault is not using "type approved" bulbs, but no mot tester will bother.

Soo, i can say confidently that no xenon replacement bulb will fix how dim these feel. I tried all the expensive xenons already. It must be a skoda thing as the old fabia i drove to the stealers to trade in also had tragic halogen bulb range even with the 200% philips bulbs. Try out some leds. They're around £35-50 for a pair on amazon now from some brands that don't sound like a keyboard thrown down the stairs. The passenger side will be a bit tricky to pull out but is possible without taking anything off. Come back with some photos for comparison please!

Just wondering what people have tried, specifically if anyone went from an older led to something released recently and had a positive experience. I'm currently using sinoparcel d3s leds for almost a year, went from not being sure if the headlights are on to just about what every other car on the road outputs these days. Photos and comparisons are welcome

The transparent plastic in the mirror is for auto mirror dimming. There is also a very faint circle with horizontal lines in the lower middle of the mirror glass if this feature is included. Basically if light makes into the interior sensor but the outer one is dark, the mirror dims to stop the driver from being dazzled by drivers from behind. On the superb all 3 mirrors dim, i assume it is similar here given a high enough spec

The must have feature of vcds is that you pay once, not even that much more, and can use it or set it aside for years and it's still the same when you come back. It has a tad higher learning curve with plenty of supporting material on forums and on the official ross-tech site. The only things obd11 has going for it is the mobile app and the unlock authorisation codes from vw mothership for newer cars. Those are needed mainly for engine ecu coding changes, immobiliser key coding and such, but is slowly expanding

My l&k does NOT have ventilated seats as standard. I can feel my sweat sizzling on the seat in the afternoon. I think you'll be mildly happy with a sportline on 18" wheels. They're okay on mine, not crashy. I wouldn't try 19"s, they're perfect like that. Also, fairly sure the extra safety assists from mk4 onward can be toned down with vcds. I've seen at the very least that lane assist can be set to remember between ignitions or always be on at car start up. Hell, i have access to a good chunk of these with a £30 obd and £5 car scanner app

Made use of revo's summer sale to finally get that stage 1 remap. 190ps tdi 4x4. Who has this engine knows it's lazy and doesn't really do much off boost. The power is there but it manages to be so unexciting at every stage of operation somehow. So, overall consumption is the same. Maybe it's a bit easier to pull into the 50's below 70mph. On boost acceleration hasn't noticeably changed, however, off boost acceleration is where it really shines. There's less need to push the gas until the gearbox downshifts, making slowing down and pushing it seamless, like on roundabouts. Starts in 2'nd a lot easier, pushes in 6'th for an overtake at reasonable pace. It's like the car is a few hundred kg lighter. One thing i've noticed and i'm not sure how to feel about it is that the dpf stays cooler in normal operation. There's more headroom to heat up and passive regen doesn't happen as easy as before. Active regens are also a bit colder and take slightly more. I'd say from 550-670° down to 520-630 now. Of course i have 0-60 times as well (via car scanner). No map, winter 7.5s, exactly to spec Stage 1, summer 25° 6.4s I'll keep an eye out for any quirks as time goes on and report

Genuine vcds is £300 for 10 vin or £500 for unlimited locally, or, straight from ross tech, 300 dollars for 10 vin and 169 dollars for online upgrade to unlimited. That's £350 before tax and duty or £425 with local shipping and online upgrade A decent generic elm obd2 bluetooth dongle that can access all modules of the car is £30, car scanner android app is £5. I obviously recommend vcds but can't deny a bluetooth dongle with the right app has done it's job and is way more portable for me

Regarding rear rattles, what i've found so far is the 3'rd brake light plastic cover, subwoofer side seat bolster, bottom boot lip screw caps and i'm slowly going insane from a creak over uneven roads only on cold days, but i suspect it's the spare wheel foam insert. Happy hunting

Devil's advocate here. I have vcds, most days i just plug in my bluetooth obd reader and use it with car scanner. £30 dongle, £5 app after 3 coding inputs. Everything you see here in the vcds options threads is there plus a few odd ones. I managed to make my fog lights flash when i flash my main beams (but not when sla or manual high beam does something). If you're near mk you're welcome to try out both

New front pads today. Turns out there is no brand on euro car parts that doesn't produce a **** special version to sell on there, so all of them squeal like train brakes, eat the discs and fade after 3 roundabouts around milton keynes. Things to note: Despite not being listed as compatible, ebc redstuff dp32150c fit just fine (32127 for 280ps). Mine didn't come with new screws and wear sensor so be aware. They're £88 on ebay. Rear pads need a bloody 7mm allen key. It's not part of any kit whatsoever. Halfords sell one. Front pads need a 17mm, ideally thin spanner to hold against the pin while unscrewing with a 13mm socket or i assume a t40 torx bit. **** pads leave a lot of caked dust that just layers on top of itself. Gotta keep poking until it's shiny. The brake wear sensor seems to be universal fit between pads, but it's skoda/vw specific on the connector side

I'm happy to report that i am alive and the brakes are dead quiet now. Unless i return here to report issues, it's safe to assume that ebc redstuff dp32150c front brake pads are fully compatible with the NON-280PS 312mm brake discs on the skoda superb mk3

Long story short, i ended up with a set of ebc redstuff front pads on my hands that fit perfectly on paper, except they do not have the clips that go into the pistons on the inner halves. These, redstuff dp32150c are not listed as compatible, although the yellowstuff dp42150r is compatible and exact same size. I can't seem to find any real pictures of the pads to confirm whether or not they have the clips Stock listings photos don't help much when they're all different on different websites, even on the official ebc brakes website. I currently have these on Which DO have the clips that slot inside the caliper. My question is, will my wheels fall off and kill babies if that retaining clip is not present or is it just some anti-rattle clip? I'm seeking replacements due to the really loud squeaking coming out of the current ecp pagid pads. Rears were successfully cured by fitting redstuff pads

Did you change the battery with the right type? And told the car it has a new battery, rating and chemistry?

Regas it and it'll work. You will also notice it's useless sitting in traffic on a hot day

I'm keeping it in that box with all the other things i've only needed once in the past 5 years. You know the one. If i throw it, no doubt i'll need it again within the week

Happy to update that about 6 months later i still have the repaired subwoofer in the boot working just fine. Don't want to jinx it now but it might have worked!

Due to maddening rear brakes squeal from pagid pads i put ebc redstuff pads last night. As soon as the bed in coating wore off they started squealing again.. now having put copper grease everywhere necessary i am convinced the only thing left to change is the brake discs themselves. I'm very tempted to find 280ps carriers so i can put vented discs now

Yea, anything stamped steel with a lick of black paint shows signs that it wants to go. Mine just turned 8 this year and i wouldn't really want to see what starts to go past 10 years. Rear 4wd drivetrain is even worse and there's the tiniest start of rust showing up on the inner corners of the boot lid foglight housings. Pan linked is aluminium so a net improvement from steel sheet and not as crunchy as plastic. I searched for my engine code (dfca) for that result. If you want something oem i'd recommend looking at LLL parts through the diagrams. They're usually cheap for oem but nothing's stopping you from taking the part numbers and shopping around

Just serviced mine last week, can confirm the front side tends to rust. Unfortunately i didn't think to take pictures of that specifically. Driveshafts and the lower control arms seem to be made of cheese as well with the paint flaking away. The pan's £100 though, probably held by tiger seal but i would consider new bolts and seal for the oil sensor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156874865619?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LAFssjzORhy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=umh76dllt9q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Funnily enough that still works just fine. This is what burnt out my pump And it was still somewhat working through until the motor gave up

Oil change today, nothing special to report but the front active shocks are slightly misting. That'll be £600 + fitting before next mot for bilstein b6 damptronics as mot history says this is the second pair leaking already. At the back, i also changed the haldex fluid, checked the filter and replaced seals. Happy to report that was unnecessary as there was nothing on the filter and barely a few bits in the housing Quite confident now that the recommended interval of 30.000 miles WITH filter cleaning is correct for haldex 5. Main dealer does not clean this which led to a burnt out pump for me only 7000 miles after i paid through the ass for them to service the car

Mine was fixed by a re-gas. Basically it works but barely, and driver gets priority on a toasty day. You may also notice it's hissing for a lot longer than it should