Athrx

Yep, starts back in 1'st, don't even feel the change to 2'nd unless i'm bottoming out the throttle and the turbo starts doing it's job from 2'nd onwards. From the screenshots you sent, it appears i'm leaking yellow transmission fluid. Great..

Bit of an update: dragged a napkin blindly underneath to catch any drop, it's definetly yellow/golden, not too different from engine oil. As far as i know mechatronic oil should be green and transmission oil red?

Nothing shows up there, but there's a sticker in the boot with that code, and the car slows down to a stop in 2'nd gear so i believe it's been done. By all means, the car behaves normally, just feel like it's on borrowed time if that is an active leak / not just overflowing from breather hole

Much appreciated for the part numbers! Any idea how much a mechanic shop should ask for this job, assuming i'm getting all the parts in? I'm not that confident in working on a part that can go wrong in such an expensive way if not done right, and i also depend on the car daily for work

Hi everyone. This weekend i got my car to a local mechanic to change my oil and filter. Usually i jack it up at a friend but this time they put it on a proper platform, so got to have a look at the wellbeing of everything under it. Well, what i believe is the mechatronic unit is leaking. It's a 7 speed dry clutch and it had the mechatronic changed before i bought it last year. Oil seems thin and clear, doesn't smell like anything, and i don't see any spots on the driveway either. Can there be an easy solution to this? Thinking to tighten the torx bolts, but i don't know how much oil it lost so far. There are no fault codes, however, it does have a "metal slap" sound when the transmission seems to engage. Mostly when not slowing down to a full stop then accelerating again

Mate, it's chain. Got the 1.2 tsi. I believe from the mk3 they went back to belts on some engines

Mine's got absolutely no tint except for the usual slight green colour to it. I figure matching year and colour would be enough, if not, i'll just buy both sides i guess. Changed an audi window last year and it was not a fun experience, rather change both doors than touch that mess. Sad to hear about the electric windows though.

First of all, how easy are they to replace? Second, if i find a rear door with electric window, will the window work at all when connected to the car's wiring loom? Not really bothered about being able to do it from the main controls, just want to know if it will open and close. Previous owner did a **** paint job on a generous scrape and i figure it's easier to buy one with a few top coat scratches than try to get a quote to fix that mess

Thanks! I did run it like this for a while, and presumably plenty of unburned petrol found it's way to the cat and into the oil, but as long as there is no measurable oil consumption and no funny noises (besides the dashboard rattles, of course), i guess it's undamaged. I assume whoever prepared the car to be sold did the change without any care for what the car needs, topped up the oil until just over the highest mark, changed *one* front tyre to whatever spare size was in the garage and signed it off as the next guy's problem

It's the IZFR6P7 plugs. Really the only ngk choice when the number plate is on there. Completely forgot to take pictures comparing them side by side. Longer thread and total length, sharper electrode, nice and shiny

Update for anyone following this specific juddering issue: Changed the spark plugs to what eurocarparts gave me in the ngk label, went to the only shop open on sunday and 20 minutes later no more juddering! Straight to the first A13 ramp in 7'th to stress test them, and until today i still can't wipe the smile off my face. The old fitted spark plugs had the thread and overall length about 3mm shorter and some carbon electrode. Looking for the serial number, they seem common on vauxhalls, hondas, mazda, really general purpose plugs that somehow managed to work on my car too. Shop was a tyre repair place in plaistow, one man band mechanic over there, really nice old man. Wanted £15 for the job, gave him £30 and told him i'll come back for tyres soon. Now on to change the different sized ditch finder front tyres the car came with...

My instrument cluster is a bit dodgy with some warning lights showing up barely lit when signals are on, or parking brake, or other weird electrical gremlins. So i was thinking, if it needs replacing or fixing, would it not cost roughly the same to get a vrs maxidot style one? My problem seems to be that most of the ones i see on sale are in the 68-70.000 miles range, while my car hasn't even passed half of that. I found a few places off google maps to code it in, but not to match the mileage. Who do i need to speak to, and roughly how much does this kind of job cost?

Hi. As someone who was in a similar dilemma, you may find it cheaper to get a top of the line (£500+) aftermarket unit, with wireless android auto/carplay and all the fancy adapters for cameras/sensors/speed camera radars, than to fully adapt an official VAG group radio (unit, harness, bluetooth unit, maybe even vcds coding). If you want the perfect fit factory look, go ahead. If you want something more modern and capable for less total money, maybe shop around a bit

What i noticed on mine is that from the rear doors, at least when they are open, water tends to drop about 10cm into the seat on that side on a flat surface, or right in the middle of it if it's on an incline. Caught me by surprise as in 2 minutes there was already a decent wet spot on that side

I'd firstly unpair everything, then find the specific system app inside your phone handling the bluetooth function, force close it and clear data, then pair everything again. If it still crashes, there's not much more to do. Android 12 is a buggy mess at this moment and further updates make it even worse. Oh, at the very least submit a bug report to google (or samsung if it is one) and make sure you get a confirmation Edit: traditionally, wiping the phone clean after every major update seemed to get rid of all the issues. It's a bit extreme, but, it may help as well. Back up everything before, then hit reset

Leaking boot seal seems to be way more common. I'd get some paper and tape it to the suspect leaking spaces then drive it around some bends. If nothing gives, just put the tiniest seal with some clear silicone around the aerial. If you do it with your fingers and clean it up you will never notice it's there once cured

Also, if anyone knows: can a vrs instrument cluster be coded in for my car? And if so, by who, and at what price. Mine needs fixing or replacing soon, and it may be cheaper to just upgrade from the ****ty green one to the maxidot i like. The small problem is that most of the ones i see are crashed and scrapped at 60k+ miles

Thanks! From what i could gather it was a very low use car (28k in october when bought), eventually got the mechatronics unit busted from all the humidity (as well as the ghost lights on the dash), was sold off cheaply, fixed by the dealership and sold to me. What would the latest software update fix? I noticed i have no issues with the car juddering between 1'st, 2'nd and 3'rd, things other people were complaining, particularly when braking, and i know there was an update for that at some point. I'm thinking to just let the dealership warranty deal with it when i can stay without a car for a few weeks

Hi. What would changing the filter and oil take? I got a friend with some tool specific for gearbox oil, but when i asked about the filter he looked at me confused. Better question: is it a back yard on jack stands job?

Hey everyone. I've been stalking this forum ever since i got my fabia. I got all the usual issues like the rattle in the glove box, poor dipped beams, dimly lit dashboard warning lights when specific lights are on. But the big problem i have now is that when i accelerate slowly from let's say 30mph in 5'th, all the way to 70-80mph, at random it will get confused when switching up the gears, judder a bit and if i don't let my foot off the gas, i got it 2 times to rev up like crazy and enter some sort of temporary neutral. Switching over to manual and cycling through gears at speed does not replicate the issue, neither putting it it "S". I need to mention that it has had a mechatronic unit replaced before i bought it, but this issue seems to be recent. Help?