Athrx

good morning everyone. looking for someone with vcp or odis/geko to do the adaptation on my 2017 superb, anywhere near london. beer tokens available!

Well, i'm at the thinking stage. Just want some vroom vroom for my ears with good mpg. I want open back roads in the middle of nowhere, not McDonald's car parks full of clapped out corsas and 3 series

Thanks guys. Seems like the custom way is the way to go for now. Straight pipe diesel at 5 in the morning with no way to override doesn't sound very social. On a separate note, are the top 2 buttons on either side of the gear lever swappable in any way? Seems like even my l&k has them blank and i've never seen them populated on any other car

Just wondering, are all mk3 models capable of supporting the exhaust valves from the 280ps model? Say i want to do a custom job with a near straight pipe on the valve side, but don't want the remote fob or any non-oem buttons in the car, would a retrofit be possible? Lastly, what is the control behaviour of the valves on the 280ps model? What goes on in what gear and what drive mode?

Is there a toggle option for heated jets? I have the rest from factory but i can't find anything to be sure they're heated and working. Btw, if you have the eyelashes, they can be coded to also be always on

Well, he's booked out for now. I'm glad i hear only good things about him while i wait for my turn though! Out of curiosity, what work were you in for?

Is he the sk retrofits guy on fb?

Thanks! Didn't even realise they are also going up to the radiator grille now. Btw, do you know what's inside the honeycomb piece in the pre-fl headlights? Haven't seen mine light up or move at all

Hi. Does anyone have some side by side pictures of the older xenon vs newer matrix led lights? Interested in the mounting holes and overall dimensions

Update: i un****ed it! Apparently vcds is kind enough to keep a debug log with all changes made, which let me get the initial coding everything came with. sooo.. yeah, good to know

hi everyone. i ****ed up and i need the stock long coding for module 4b for a 2017-ish skoda superb without smart light assist. i changed no idea what, and now the auto high beam triggers a fault every time it is used. it's also no longer recognised as auto high beam, just manual. stock or not triggering any faults will do just fine

I'm upset about the lack of following a-rgb led standard, not the lack of wires. And please do share some part numbers if you've still got any on hand. Beyond actually putting the oem rgb lights, i figure they are a bit easier to hijack the decoded signal from by desoldering the led's and using their contact pads from a spare one

Of course it can't be something standard.. I guess i'm left to buy a spare and see if i can solder anything on the led contact pads as signal wires, or even better, use that as the optic fiber base

hi everyone. hopefully tomorrow i'm buying a 2017 skoda superb in l&k trim! now, the first thing after doing all the vcds mods is to take the headliner off and put "starlight" optic fibers in it. i would like to achieve this by piggy backing off the light strips in the dashboard and doors, but i need to know if it's just 3 led's each with their own wire or a single adressable rgb module. has anyone taken one apart or retrofitted it? lastly, any must have mods i need to consider?

Ha. Tell me about it. Plenty of leg room but the damn mirror is right at eye level and the B pillars level with the head

40% may trigger in very clear days at sunset and feel way too early, but in cloudy days (most days..) it's spot on. I also recommend led front sidelights. The w5w pro ones from halfords don't fit the interior dome but are perfect for outside. No fault codes and are legal! The middle festoon bulb in the dome also works very well with halfords pro led stuff, and you'll be left with a spare. (Also fits licence plate bulbs.. again legal) Do not buy the non-pro of anything, they just melt. In this pic you can just about see the cable from the light sensor in the corner. Discreet enough for me

My mk2 vrs seats are the same black, but with white stiching and a vrs logo. Nothing in the "hard to keep clean" territory. As for the light switch, it needs a bit of tuning. On the bluetooth app i've made it have: 40% threshold for sidelights Default for headlights (bugged but it works) 1S delay for turning on 10S delay for turning off Fog lights auto on with headlights 30S delay for coming home 10s delay for leaving home The sensor is placed on the dashboard in the corner where the windscreen vents are, only see the reflection of it

Vrs seats are pretty nice, very different feeling than the gym benches it comes with normally. Mine came with the under seat storage and heat pads. New drop links and i'm colin McRae in the twisties now. LED interior lights and auto switch for headlights are the next easiest things to do btw

Congratulations! Now on to the rest of the mods :))

That seems to be coming from the ecu. Did you put the pin in the ecu in the right place?

Same issue on 1.2tsi. Hose going to pcv valve held on by hopes and dreams. Bought half a meter of silicone hose with 10mm id and cut from that. £4 fix with spares left over

Your best chance is to find someone parting out on facebook marketplace and ask about the back box assembly. Only need a jack and some spanners as it's split in 2 parts somewhere in the middle (i forgot if before or after resonator) with a single clamp

Yep. Although the fault codes are specifically about low pressure/circuit range A, or some combination of those words. Getting vcds later i could see the lowest pressure in the accumulator got to 23psi out of the usual 150-200 or so. If you're in a pinch and need a car on the road just do this, then look into capable diagnostics tools. Cheapest would be carista off amazon. Buy, look at the faults, clear them, return the thing

May i present you my cheap bandaid fix.. First of all, going on a few assumptions here, first is that the mechatronic unit has been leaking slowly since day 1 of replacement, then that the garage cowboys used tiger seal instead of the real gasket that should be used. I'm assuming that because that's exactly what happened to mine. Now, if you can remove the battery, battery tray and pull the air filter box to the side enough, you'll see the breather black cap on the mechatronic. Assorted torx bits and set of sockets with extension bar needed. Once you find the right torx and hex socket they're good for the whole job. Oh and a set of pliers. That cap comes off harder than expected My unit started throwing faults at around 600ml (measured left in unit) out of 1L, so 400ml of "MVCHF" comma brand central hydraulic oil from halfords will set you good. It's £10 or so, chf11s spec so matches oem. The little valve is around 8-10mm outside diameter and 5mm inside diameter, syringe or funnel with a hose should work just fine to top it back up. If you want to do it the proper way, assuming it's a 1.2tsi, starter motor needs to come off, so don't bother, just use the breather hole and slowly pour in what you need, and if it stops shake the hose to force a bubble out. I'm doing this for the past year and a half and 50.000 miles. Once topped up it's trouble free for half a year or more, depending on gasket gods mood that season

Looks like you have/are looking at the monte carlo version, a dressed up fabia. All the trim bits can be bought separately, and there are no monte carlo specific bumpers/side skirts, which suggests they just stick on. A hairdryer and alcohol may or may not help. Be aware that the bumper plastic is very thin and the glue may take the paint with it.. not worth it