SwallownAmazon

I would also wire brush the flaking metal and use a proprietary rust converter like FERTAN, primes and then spray with chassis black. If you live near the coast you need to keep on top of it; a neighbour bought a Honda Civic from someone in Brighton that on the face of it looked nice. Wasn't till he had it MOT'd that he found it was rotten underneath.

I can understand closing the intake but blower going full speed??

All three of my Skoda Octavias from 2002 to date have a bit of an oddity when reversing; the heater starts to blow full chat no matter what the settings are. It then reverts to normal as soon as one drives forwards. Does anyone know why this is the case?

Plus 1 for gas check, mine wasn't working when I bought the car (2016 diesel vRS) a re-gas did the trick and a year on it's still fine. A word of warning - Do not engage the aircon at speed, wait for when the engine is at low revs. A former colleague switched it on at speed on the M5, the compressor drive belt snapped and wrapped itself around the crank pulley which then dislodged the cam belt. Result? A scrapped engine which cost £4,500 plus to replace in 2014.....

Both my previous Octavia Mk 2's were fine after 7 and 8 years ownership, the current one (Mk 3) is loose and bl**dy annoying. I'm tempted just to break it off, because it is so loose it won't retain the ticket against the screen.

You'll probably find it will all work again when you go over a bump or hit a pothole....

My previous Octavia 2.0 TDi (BKD engine) did not use any oil between annual services or 10,000 miles whichever came sooner. It was my company car from new in 2008 and I took it over on retirement. Total mileage when I traded it in last year was around 185,000 and it never missed a beat. My current 2016 vRS TDi (CUNA engine) seems to use around 0.5 litre oil in 500 miles. Mileage on car is 146,000, bought it last year and I am (I think) the 4th owner. That level of oil consumption is what I would classify as a "total loss" system and had I realised that, I would not have bought it. It regularly throws an exhaust heat sensor fault code which I am told by my trusted VW specialist workshop is nothing to worry about, so I cancel it using a cheap code reader from Amazon. I am now making the best of a bad job. I do like the car, it's comfortable, goes and stops quite well with EBC pads, handles nicely but I am constantly worrying about when it next throws a code and needs attention. Taking it to France next month and I do have Continental recovery.....

If the sound / vibration is coming from under the seat, check all the plastic undertrays are properly secured. One of them may have been disloged / broken by the delivery driver on the transporter.

It could also be the sliders on which the caliper is mounted that are corroded/sticky. Cheap enough and easy to replace. By the way, it is not a metal to metal seal of the piston in the caliper, there is a rubber seal in the piston that actually makes the seal; any damage to that and you'll have a leak. Cleanliness is next to Godliness......😉

You havn't said which model car yours is. That's the DPF that you need to move. Not an easy job. To change mine on my diesel vRS, the garage had to loosen the front subframe fixings so it could be moved in order to give enough clearance to get it out. When it was returned to me the steering wheel wasn't centred so it had to go back for adjustment of the subframe mounting bolts....

That Autodoc price looks good. I got uprated higher rate "towing springs" for my Octavia 2 TDi from Skoda Parts in Czech Republic. Total cost including shipping for the springs, rubber mounting pads and Fedex shipping was Euros 93.22; admittedly in 2022. They made a huge difference, making it seem more stable without raising the ride height unladen. Very helpful chap on the phone, spoke perfect English with an American twang.

The jelly-like gunk is a by-product of bacterial degradation of the organic component of the screenwash additive. Best way to stop it is to use a wee bit of disinfectant in the tank. My day job was as an industrial chemist and I spent some years working with surfactants. If my jets block with general road muck thrown up, I also clear the pipe by operating the washer for a few seconds without the jet in place.

My code reader showed the "oil pressure regulation valve electrical malfunction" code and my trusted indie garage assured me that's exactly what it was - a malfunction. It's only happened once with the regular appearance of another one which also looks to be a malfunction and which I clear when it happens.

For information, I registered my diesel vRS and the sticker came about 5 days later. We are off to the Loire valley and Brittany in May. I think the only time the sticker is required is if you visit certain city centres, Bonne journee and all that..

Waste of time and money. Cleaning will only remove the carbon that should be burned during the regen process. Main problem with these damned things is they clog up with ash that is effectively embedded in the ceramic core and no amount of pressure cleaning will get it out without damage to the core. Like turbos, they have a service life of around 140 - 150 thousand miles so yours at 145,000 odd is probably due for replacement.

I clear mine out with a dress-making pin nicked from the memsahib's sewing box. It seems to clog both the jets and the feedpipe inside, usually with rust particles.

As above, this code pops up with monotonous regularity on my diesel VRS with CUNA 4 cylinder engine. Simultaneously the orange engine shaped warning light comes on. The code can be cleared using a basic OBD tool and I have noticed that its appearance can be prompted by a bit of spirited driving such as pulling out of a side turning into moving traffic. I've looked this up using Dr Google and it tells me that No 8 injector is possibly, clogged, faulty, or there is a wiring fault. No 8? Is my diagnostic tool having me on? There doesn't appear to be any noticeable power loss when it lights up - am I being a bit paranoid?

Asking about a dashboard rattle is a bit like asking how long is a piece od string. Can't identify it through a keyboard/screen...

Or too small to be able show it. 😄

As above you could try eBay - I sourced a set of drivers' handbooks for my BMW 740 for not many shekels...

The bonnet pull on my previous Octavia 2 failed a few years back right outside the place I'd gone to to buy a new battery. The battery guy couldn't work out how to do it so Green Flag came to the rescue. Took him over two hours to do it through the front grilles which rattled from then on. And the reason it failed? The plastic connector in the two-piece cable had cracked allowing the soldered nipple to just pull out.... Not an easy job and I imagine on the Oct 3, it wll be even more difficult with improved security. Good luck

Thanks Occy, I was afraid of the DMF - a bit fragile for 200-odd BHP...

As in the heading, I would like to know the type of 6-speed manual gearbox fitted to my 2016 Octavia vRS TDi with CUNA engine. I've found lots of discussions about the various DSG boxes but little about the manual box. What sort of clutch does it have - single plate or twin plate - wet or dry? Solid or dual mass flywheel? I've found that when it's hot after a longish run (50 miles or more) there appears to be a bit of what I can only describe as "looseness" when the drive takes up from rest; almost like judder but not that bad and I wonder whether an oil change would be beneficial? My only experience with a wet clutch is on a pre-war Morris car whose single plate consisted of a ring of corks pressed into holes in the plate. This ran in an oily environment fed from a tiny drilling to an oilway in the back of the crankshaft main bearing and the excess drained back to the sump.

My understanding is that it's the ash content in the DPF that is the rate determining step rather than soot. The DPF can look clean as the ash is pretty well the same colour as the filter material so won't show up. These things do have a "service life"; my 2016 vRS diesel at 146,000 odd miles with similar issues to yours needed a replacement and since then no problems. Short journeys will exacerbate the problem. Cost from Autodoc for the Walker unit was around £1200 delivered all charges paid whereas cost from Skoda was £1800 +VAT.

If you found the bonnet struts, why can't you search for the boot struts yourself? 🙄