SwallownAmazon

It doesn't.....I use TomTom having given up on Skoda's rubbish navigation system and I don't understand why people would continue to try. Just ditch it, buy a TomTom cheapie and get free map updates for life.

Never heard of TomTom Sat Navs? 🙄

That's why I still use TomTom.....😄

My BMW 740 Sport has "hydraulic" engine mounts that eventually lose the fluid which is actually more like a gel. The engine then drops onto the cross-member with consequent 'orrible vibration. Should be an easy swap, unlike the BMW which are a b*gg*r to get at because of the exhausts....

I wonder whether the suspension was allowed to settle with the car's full weight on the wheels before all the bolts were tightened?

Thanks to all for the help. 😀

Does the SD card fit in the extra slot in the glovebox unit? I'm a bit of a Luddite when it comes to electronickery, give me an engine to work on any day! Thanks, that looks the very dab.

Thanks Dave, that's what I was afraid might be the answer. The problem I have is that my new DELL laptop doesn't have a CD/DVD player built in so unless I can find an inexpensive CD player to plug in, I am stuck with what I have.

Bump to this question.

Thanks, I've tried pushing the connectors firmly together in the mountings on the bulkhead firewall, I'll see how that goes.

Thanks Warrior193, that's exactly what the code reader says; can you point me in the right direction to check the connection? It's a bit of a bird's nest under the plastic cover and there is a bit of damage to the metallised fabric heat shield that's now held in place by tie-wraps because the pop fasteners have torn out of the fabric..... **No, only the faulty one was changed (£154 +VAT) so they didn't bother with the second one which appeared at the time to be OK, because of the price. The question still remains - is there an easy way to see if the ECU has been modified to allow extra "poke"? **Edit to add: Just checked the service invoices and the first EGT sensor was changed in July last year.

Car is 2016 Octy vRS diesel CUNA code engine, 150,000 miles. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to find out if the ECU has been chipped? Bought the car as the fourth owner and it came with 2cm wide wheel spacers all round which indicates that at least one of the past owners "pressed on" somewhat. In my ownership it's had the spacers removed (!!!), new DPF, new Bosch pressure & EGT sensors and repairs to a previously bodged turbo change; all done by a specialist VAG workshop I have been with for over 30 years with various Audi, Skoda and SEAT cars. Since the DPF and EGT sensor change, it persistently throws error code P2084 usually after a bit of gentle acceleration, which the workshop says is nothing to worry about. There is no loss of performance and it clears with a basic code reader. The workshop believe it to have been chipped at some stage which is why it keeps throwing the code; is this feasible and is there any easy way to check?

On my Mk 2, this used to happen if I didn't really "whack" the seat backrest home. Try releasing it again and whack it hard against the stop when you put it back.....

Plus 1 for low oil. That sounds like a "dry clunk" to my ears. Could also be dry CV joints.

Car is 2016 Octavia 3 diesel vRS with the CUNA engine. My aircon seems to be on its last legs and the guy who re-gassed it last week recommended a new compressor and condenser, the latter being a bit "crusty" in his words. I think i've found the correct part number for the compressor - 5Q0 820 803 - but there seem to be about a dozen different part numbers for the condenser. Can some kind person confirm I'm correct with the compressor PN and let me know the correct condenser PN please? TIA.

A question that I can't answer I'm afraid. She has had it serviced regularly by the Skoda dealer she bought it from, so who knows? My experience of main dealers of several ilks is not good..... Charging for parts and not actually fitting them. I've looked up BOSCH dealers in her neck of the woods and come up with Deepcut Garage - anyone had any experience with them?

Get an MOT test done, problem should be obvious to the tester.

First post in this forum, I usually hover over the Octavia Mk 111 one as I own a 2016 diesel vRS. My sister has a 2015 1.2TSi manual Yeti which went into limp mode just before she went into hospital for a hip replacement - yes, we are of that generation! Her main dealer that supplied the car and have serviced it since she acquired it say it needs a new coil pack and ignition lead and want £800 to change it and a split track rod end rubber boot. 6 - 8 week delay before they can do the work because of parts availability. Questions are: 1, Is she being stitched up - YES. 2, Can anyone recommend a good Indie VAG workshop in the Camberley area? i know very little about modern (after 1980s) petrol engines and when I looked on a couple of parts web sites, they were showing glow plugs in the ignition section; in a petrol engine? Loads of different coil packs that fit onto the spark plug like my BMW 740 Sport and a coil that looks a bit like a square distributor cap with four connectors sticking out, I imagine for the plug leads. Any advice will be welcome.

Looks like they vacuumed out the R134a and forgot to replace it.....

Try this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/459311-skoda-pr-code-factory-option-decoder/

There are three different disc diameters shown for Mk 111 vRS cars, you need to take the wheel off and measure the diameter; armed with that try again. I use EBC Greenstuff pads on my 2016 vRS diesel and their ref number is DP22150 for PR number 1ZB front brakes. That PR number can be found in the build codes for your car.

If they've had it for a week with no successful repair AND the fault was reported to them before the 30 day warranty expired, get your money back. Local Authority Trading Standards office might be interested.......

Assuming it's a diesel, It's one of the DPF differential pressure sensors throwing a code. This was the precursor to my needing a new DPF and associated gubbins last year.

Not a Superb but my 2016 Mk 3 Octavia keeps telling me the key fob battery is flat even after I've changed it. The lock/unlock works about 75 metres from the car so still going strong.....

Looks more like a dodgy lambda sensor in the exhaust system if CO and HC figures are high.