SwallownAmazon

On my Mk 2, this used to happen if I didn't really "whack" the seat backrest home. Try releasing it again and whack it hard against the stop when you put it back.....

Plus 1 for low oil. That sounds like a "dry clunk" to my ears. Could also be dry CV joints.

Car is 2016 Octavia 3 diesel vRS with the CUNA engine. My aircon seems to be on its last legs and the guy who re-gassed it last week recommended a new compressor and condenser, the latter being a bit "crusty" in his words. I think i've found the correct part number for the compressor - 5Q0 820 803 - but there seem to be about a dozen different part numbers for the condenser. Can some kind person confirm I'm correct with the compressor PN and let me know the correct condenser PN please? TIA.

A question that I can't answer I'm afraid. She has had it serviced regularly by the Skoda dealer she bought it from, so who knows? My experience of main dealers of several ilks is not good..... Charging for parts and not actually fitting them. I've looked up BOSCH dealers in her neck of the woods and come up with Deepcut Garage - anyone had any experience with them?

Get an MOT test done, problem should be obvious to the tester.

First post in this forum, I usually hover over the Octavia Mk 111 one as I own a 2016 diesel vRS. My sister has a 2015 1.2TSi manual Yeti which went into limp mode just before she went into hospital for a hip replacement - yes, we are of that generation! Her main dealer that supplied the car and have serviced it since she acquired it say it needs a new coil pack and ignition lead and want £800 to change it and a split track rod end rubber boot. 6 - 8 week delay before they can do the work because of parts availability. Questions are: 1, Is she being stitched up - YES. 2, Can anyone recommend a good Indie VAG workshop in the Camberley area? i know very little about modern (after 1980s) petrol engines and when I looked on a couple of parts web sites, they were showing glow plugs in the ignition section; in a petrol engine? Loads of different coil packs that fit onto the spark plug like my BMW 740 Sport and a coil that looks a bit like a square distributor cap with four connectors sticking out, I imagine for the plug leads. Any advice will be welcome.

Looks like they vacuumed out the R134a and forgot to replace it.....

Try this thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/459311-skoda-pr-code-factory-option-decoder/

There are three different disc diameters shown for Mk 111 vRS cars, you need to take the wheel off and measure the diameter; armed with that try again. I use EBC Greenstuff pads on my 2016 vRS diesel and their ref number is DP22150 for PR number 1ZB front brakes. That PR number can be found in the build codes for your car.

If they've had it for a week with no successful repair AND the fault was reported to them before the 30 day warranty expired, get your money back. Local Authority Trading Standards office might be interested.......

Assuming it's a diesel, It's one of the DPF differential pressure sensors throwing a code. This was the precursor to my needing a new DPF and associated gubbins last year.

Not a Superb but my 2016 Mk 3 Octavia keeps telling me the key fob battery is flat even after I've changed it. The lock/unlock works about 75 metres from the car so still going strong.....

Looks more like a dodgy lambda sensor in the exhaust system if CO and HC figures are high.

Plus Mannol (is alleged) to use dodgy sanctions busting feedstocks to produce their oils, etc in Lithuania. i wouldn't touch it with a bargepole.....

One of the things I miss in my TDi vRS Mk 3 is the CD player in the boot that I had in the much-missed Mk 2. Has anyone had any experience of a separate CD player in the car playing back through the "Media" part of the infotainment system? I do have music in my Galaxy A26 phone but I can't seem to get it to play albums in the car, it will only play one single track at a time.

I would also wire brush the flaking metal and use a proprietary rust converter like FERTAN, primes and then spray with chassis black. If you live near the coast you need to keep on top of it; a neighbour bought a Honda Civic from someone in Brighton that on the face of it looked nice. Wasn't till he had it MOT'd that he found it was rotten underneath.

I can understand closing the intake but blower going full speed??

All three of my Skoda Octavias from 2002 to date have a bit of an oddity when reversing; the heater starts to blow full chat no matter what the settings are. It then reverts to normal as soon as one drives forwards. Does anyone know why this is the case?

Plus 1 for gas check, mine wasn't working when I bought the car (2016 diesel vRS) a re-gas did the trick and a year on it's still fine. A word of warning - Do not engage the aircon at speed, wait for when the engine is at low revs. A former colleague switched it on at speed on the M5, the compressor drive belt snapped and wrapped itself around the crank pulley which then dislodged the cam belt. Result? A scrapped engine which cost £4,500 plus to replace in 2014.....

Both my previous Octavia Mk 2's were fine after 7 and 8 years ownership, the current one (Mk 3) is loose and bl**dy annoying. I'm tempted just to break it off, because it is so loose it won't retain the ticket against the screen.

You'll probably find it will all work again when you go over a bump or hit a pothole....

My previous Octavia 2.0 TDi (BKD engine) did not use any oil between annual services or 10,000 miles whichever came sooner. It was my company car from new in 2008 and I took it over on retirement. Total mileage when I traded it in last year was around 185,000 and it never missed a beat. My current 2016 vRS TDi (CUNA engine) seems to use around 0.5 litre oil in 500 miles. Mileage on car is 146,000, bought it last year and I am (I think) the 4th owner. That level of oil consumption is what I would classify as a "total loss" system and had I realised that, I would not have bought it. It regularly throws an exhaust heat sensor fault code which I am told by my trusted VW specialist workshop is nothing to worry about, so I cancel it using a cheap code reader from Amazon. I am now making the best of a bad job. I do like the car, it's comfortable, goes and stops quite well with EBC pads, handles nicely but I am constantly worrying about when it next throws a code and needs attention. Taking it to France next month and I do have Continental recovery.....

If the sound / vibration is coming from under the seat, check all the plastic undertrays are properly secured. One of them may have been disloged / broken by the delivery driver on the transporter.

It could also be the sliders on which the caliper is mounted that are corroded/sticky. Cheap enough and easy to replace. By the way, it is not a metal to metal seal of the piston in the caliper, there is a rubber seal in the piston that actually makes the seal; any damage to that and you'll have a leak. Cleanliness is next to Godliness......😉

You havn't said which model car yours is. That's the DPF that you need to move. Not an easy job. To change mine on my diesel vRS, the garage had to loosen the front subframe fixings so it could be moved in order to give enough clearance to get it out. When it was returned to me the steering wheel wasn't centred so it had to go back for adjustment of the subframe mounting bolts....