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Does sound a little HG like. A sniffer test for exhaust gases in the coolant is the real check. You could try the sodium silicate fix if it is the HG which might keep you going a year or two.

Did he test the plugs only or the complete system? The plugs could be OK, but a relay failure would give no hot plugs at startup and hence the problems you described.

As last advice; go for a good long run to get everything hot; then have a look CAUTION let it cool before taking off the tank cap. You need to sort out the temperature gauge issue as without it you can't check many other things, e.g. running constantly cool could mean a thermostat is required (cheap and easy). The pumping of cold water isn't a problem. A small amount of water is always being circulated even with a closed thermostat and engine. The changed colour of the coolant is odd, but it could be the result of old products being freed from the linings of the cooling channels. A 2002 car with only 50K miles may have been stood for a while and a change of coolant may have cleaned the channels but discoloured the liquid. Please report back.

You'll work hard to get below 70 with an SDI on the open road. Even in town it hardly dips. The SDI isn't actually slow - it will cruise at over 70 all day long up hill down dale. The thing is that it isn't quick to get to that speed; moving into a fast traffic scheme on a roundabout takes practice - on the other hand it is impossible to stall.

A few things to check to get more information: Has any work been done on the engine which could introduce lubrication (e.g. new cam belt/water pump etc)? Is this the first time you've seen this - was it normally clear and non-oily? Was there foam filling the top of the tank when you took off the cap? Has the water level changed? Is the oil level OK? Is it dropping or water in it (put a match to the tip of the dip stick; if there is water in it the oil will spit). Was there any pressure in the tank when you took the top off? The only true way to check is to use an instrument to check for exhaust gases in the water, but even this could miss some problems. At the moment I wouldn't panic - just work through the signs.

Could be bush or bearing or bent stub if car has been rear-ended.

Best of luck with sprog and new car

Wow, this thread has really covered some ground and what a beautiful machine in the middle! Couple of points from very early on: I've used Pipercross filter for over 100K and doesn't seem to be a problem. Car now at 170K and not using oil etc so no suggestion of wear due to dirty air. It looks a poor fit, but when clamped down is OK. It DOES need oiling. Pipercross sell a spray bottle. Nice thing about them is that you can clean and re-oil as often as you want at practically no cost, so you can always be sure of a clean filter. Pictures of Ceelock. First fitted one to wife's Fabia because she got car sick when driving (don't ask) and it helped enormously. Tried it myself and found the extra security rather good; no sliding off the seat or slumping, so put one on my own Fabia. They took it off at the last MOT (?) but it is back now as the difference was surprising.

Protect the glass and pour very hot water over it. The plastic expands before the metal gets hot and a good wiggle should loosen it.

Yes

There are a number of companies with sites on the web which trace parts by being in contact with breakers around the country. You shouldn't have any problem, but first ask a local independent garage how much they would charge to fit the replacement. Best of luck; fingers crossed for you.

Fitted some about 9 months ago. No problems fitting and working fine.

Bleed

Much easier to remove sensor and then unclip from wiring.

Thanks Maverick, now I understand.

If it ran put of oil then the knocking could be big ends or little ends (bearings at ends of con-rods). These are relatively cheap although there is a bit of work in getting to them. Suggest asking about as difference between value of car as is and repaired could be many times the cost of repair. Best of luck anyway.

Apologies for being thick and very uninformed. Are you saying that if I change from original halogen lamps (H3s) to xenon lamps then I should order H7s? Are these the same fittings? Is the difference within the lamp? Thanks

Garage's suggestion of heat is good first step. Heating the rapid cooling may free the threads. If it doesn't work then you've not damaged anything.

Depends which clips you have - crimped on or spring. If spring and they're OK now, then you don't need new ones, just pull side together and slide along pipe to release. Crimped ones need cutting and can be replaced by crimped, spring or jubilee. Any motor factors will have them on the shelf (postage will cost more than the clips).

Yes it should be pressurised, but nothing should spill when you take the cap off. The level may rise a bit and you may hear the pressure released as the cap is turned, but it shouldn't throw out hot water like the old cap-on-the-radiator cars. Try running for a bit after reaching working temperature, then when you stop, leave the cap on and squeeze the top radiator hose. If it's firm then you have pressure, if squigy then all is not well.

New tensioners are cheap as they are multiple VAG models. The pulley on the tensioner looks remarkably flimsy but don't seem to cause problems. The alternator clutch (the wide pulley on the alternator) does cause problems. A squirt of WD40 on the tensioner will show if it is the tensioner/pulley itself which is noisy.

If Skoda won't check the alternator clutch try an auto electrical place. Alternatively, get a thin wooden stick and put one end on different parts of the engine/alternator with other to your ear (mind your hair, tie etc near the pulley).It should give a good guide to the area of the problem. If it is the clutch then putting a load on the alternator would reduce the snatching.

I'e been happy using it for a few years now; really on the basis of the extra lube arguments. No problems. As to mpg, it's important to include the oil as fuel. If you add 1 litre of oil to 50 litres of diesel and calculate on brim to brim without including the oil you will appear to have got an extra 2%.

If the radiator was blocked and the car overheating, then that might happen, but usually radiators leak. An air lock could also give a similar problem, but these are usually short-lived on the Fabia. A failing head gasket could also have that effect and the garage could check with a sniffer to find out whether there are exhaust gasses in the water. I'd suggest this test. If that's OK and you have no other problems, (temp OK, heater OK etc) and the level is just below min then I'd suggest not topping up but keeping a close eye on the level and if it never varies when cold just accept it as being normal for the car.

A useful tip is to tape a spare to somewhere under the car. Not that easy with the Fabia, but a cable tie can hold one (or a box) above the undertray and still accessible by breaking the tie.