Jocko

Any bit of clean metalwork will do. Or a bit wire connected to the battery negative.

Check for a broken wire at the alternator plug.

Check the wiring harness between the A-pillar and the door. There are many posts on here about breakages in the wiring to the plug.

Remove fuse 30 then, with the ignition on, check for 12v between one end of the fuse holder and a good earth. With the fuse out only the supply end of the holder should be live.

Sorry, I am disabled and not physically able to do what you ask. However, I can confirm that you should have 12v on the pump when the ignition is on as this diagram shows.

Thanks for that. I try not to worry about noises. I was once driving an old Ford up to Aberdeen and I could swear the big ends started knocking. I was in two minds whether to turn back. And sure enough, 20,000 miles later I crashed into a truck! I hear noises in the car that my non-driver wife doesn't. I only worry when she says, "What's that noise?".

Voltage should be between Blu/Wht and Brown/Violet. If no 12V, check between Blu/Wht and an earth point on the bodywork.

According to my manual, the fuse for the fuel pump up to February 2010 is SB30. It is a 15A fuse. SB20 is for models after that date. Looking at your photo would suggest it is the 15A fuse, at the bottom, between the 10A fuses. With the ignition on you should get 12V across the pump, cranking or not.

I am following this post with interest as my car makes a similar sound which I have always attributed to the auxiliary belt.

Resistance causes lower current draw.

Have you confirmed the pump is getting a supply voltage and isn't running? There is no point in doing anything else until you have ascertained these points.

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Temu sell this world wide. Fuel Tank Cap Wrench 100-170mm Fuel Pump Sender Lock Ring Tool

My Fabia has a fuel filter in the fuel line. As far as I know, the pump has the level sensor included but not a filter. That video you posted is for a diesel.

Can you hear the fuel pump running? The LH diagram is the petrol engine.

I checked my own car this morning and when I unlatched the bonnet, even with the ignition off, the bonnet open warning shows up (the bonnet turns white on the graphic).

From page 31 of my manual. The warning light  flashes yellow* (engine oil level sensor faulty) A fault on the engine oil level sensor is indicated additionally by an audible signal and the warning light coming on several times after the ignition has been switched on. In this case have the engine inspected without delay by a specialist garage. The following text will be displayed in the information display*: OIL SENSOR WORKSHOP!

According to my manual, a faulty sensor causes the yellow oil can to flash and displays "OIL SENSOR WORKSHOP!".

So why does it go out after 2 minutes?

Checked the Haynes manual and the oil level/temp sensor doesn't look too difficult to replace when you have the sump drained, which you are talking of doing soon anyway.

Is the oil now right to the top of the hatching on the dipstick? If so I would suspect the sensor, but why it goes out after 2 minutes or so is anyone's guess.

The oil is probably just on the cusp and when the oil gets warm and expands, it is enough to put the Low Level light out after a couple of minutes. You should top the oil up when it is warm. If you top it up when it is cold it will be above the mark when hot. Unless, the instructions for your engine are different from mine.

When it is hot, switch the engine off then leave it for 3-5 minutes before you check it. Probably teaching granny to suck eggs but remove the dipstick, clean it, replace it, make sure it is fully home, then remove it and check it is up to the mark.

I just checked my manual and there is nothing about having to reset anything. Opening the bonnet for 30 seconds appears to appease it and if you don't add oil it comes back on after 100km.

Did you flush out the fuel system and refill it with fresh fuel?