Jocko

That is pretty much how mine sounds and I have never given it a second thought.

Thanks. I didn't realise just how cheap these parts are. I think I will replace the brake switch first as I can do that myself. The clutch switch is the more likely culprit but with my limited mobility, I think I would struggle to do that one myself.

Two questions relating to the issues I am having. Regarding the ABS, as the fault is intermittent, will an error code show up on VCDS-Lite if the light itself is not on. The problem is unless I am connected to the system when the error occurs it clears if I turn off the ignition. With regards to the cruise control disengaging, are the only factors that cause it to do so the stalk switch, the brake pedal and the clutch? The problem is not a temporary loss of supply because pressing Res+ (Resume) reengages it. I am searching for a suitable circuit diagram.

Today I went for what for me is a long run, about 70 miles, out and back. The car was a pain in the butt. I get occasional incidences of the ABS warning light coming on, usually once every few weeks. It appears to be a dodgy connection as it resets when you turn the ignition off and back on. Today it was doing it every 10 or 15 minutes. On top of that the cruise control repeatedly dropped out and even the Climatronic unit was playing silly buffers. It was a damp misty morning and I turned the temperature up from 18°C to 20°C. The next time I looked it was back down to 18°C. This happened about three times. At Least it starts and runs!

I was offering the guy advice. No point in his missus getting a ticket when it could be avoided.

be aware that it is illegal to drive with the screen visible to the driver whether the driver is watching or not.

yes, but we are talking very little here. if it is pi$$ing down inside the door then you need new window seals.

My doors are dry inside. That is the purpose of the rubber window seals, to stop the rain from entering the doors.

How is the water getting into the speaker, that is the issue. Unless you have been playing a lot of "November Rain".

Have you checked the MOT history and mileages? https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=kx63feo&checkRecalls=true

I find the same. You have to give two quick clicks. If the second click is too slow you have to give another two quick clicks. I am hardly ever in the car by myself so one-click entry would be ideal.

Personally I find the double press a pain in the ar$e. It is the first car I have had that needs that and I don't really see the advantages to it.

Ross Tech VCDS running on a laptop. VCDS Lite is a free download. I have it on my laptop but have never tried it.

Is that not concerning?

That is exactly what happened. We had only just bought our Volvo S40. I parked it with her and the keys inside, the engine running, shut my door and when I came to get back in I found the car locked. Neither of us had much idea what to do as the car was only a few weeks in my ownership. Eventually, I got her to open the driver's window and I reached in and pressed the unlock button on my door pull. Nine years and 82,000 miles later it had never done it again but she has been ****ers ever since.

There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the remote. The buttons all need a distinct press to function. It is just my wife's paranoia when a button gets pressed accidentally.

I have found from other VAG forums that the VCDS will allow me to disable the 15-second delay between key entry and the alarm sounding but can anyone tell me if I can extend the delay using VCDS? I am disabled and struggle to get into a position to set the ignition in 15 seconds but a longer delay would help.

I see that I can swap the key itself over to a replacement fob however, it appears that my current fob has been glued and I am unable to open it. All I have managed to do is chew lumps out of the case!

I'm sorry I wasn't clear in my original post. I don't have an issue when driving the car. It doesn't lock or alarm or such. it is just when the keys are in my pocket. Just walking can activate the fob. It came to a head today when I stopped for petrol. I took the keys with me to open the filler cap and when I came back to the car it was locked. My wife was fine, she had her door open. However, I unlocked my door with one press of the button, we drove off and my wife shut her door but when we got home her door was locked. She got quite agitated. Regarding removing the alarm horn, I don't want to lose the alarm function. I would just like to be able to open all four doors using the key in the driver's door without it setting the alarm off, as was the case with my old Jazz. Will a replacement fob case also take my key as the current one does?

I wish to disable the remote locking on the car as it is a pain in the proverbial. You just have to breath heavy on the fob and it locks or unlocks. Stick it in my trouser pocket and it activates with the least movement. My wife is paranoid about getting locked in the car. If she had her way we would drive everywhere with her holding her door open. As it is she won't close her door until I start to move off and opens it the moment we stop at our destination. It is open before I even get parked properly. My plan is just to remove the battery from the fob but what I would like to know is, can I activate unlocking all doors from the key in the driver's door and can I deactivate the need to turn the ignition on immediately after unlocking with the key to stop the alarm sounding? If not, then the car or the wife needs to go.

There is a vent pipe, for when the fuel filler cap is in place. There is no need for a vent pipe when you are filling up as there is plenty of space around the filler nozzle for air and fumes to escape. Try another garage, just once, to see if it makes a difference.

A paint shop could mix you a colour which matches what the car currently is.

Be aware, it is illegal to fit LED bulbs to units not certified for their use and an MOT fail.

Do you always fill up at the same pump? I do not see how the filler nozzle can restrict the venting of the tank. If you think you can feed a small bore pipe down the side of the nozzle, then you don't need to!

I experience the same. I find that as soon as the light comes on I kill the ignition at the first opportunity and the light resets on turning the ignition back on. it can stay out for a couple of days or a couple of months. I put it down to a dodgy connection somewhere.