krisp1

From the description it sounds as if the the variable vane turbocharger sticks when you accelerate and causes an over boost condition which then puts the engine into the limp home mode. Switching off the ignition clears the limp home mode and does not necessarily leave a fault code. Driving very gently may not push the boost too high and hence into limp mode. The cure would be a new or reconditioned turbocharger. Some people have cleaned them out, however I cannot comment about effectiveness or side effects.

A flashing glow plug light is a warning of an engine management problem, not just glow plugs. The car needs to be connected to VCDS or another diagnostic problem to understand the issue. I had a glow plug light flashing which was inconsistencies with the throttle pedal signal. Cleaning the connection and clearing the fault cured it. I am not saying that is your issue, however diagnostics are needed to overcome expensive guesswork.

Fundamentally you are being attempting to be fleeced by the dealer. The above is a lot of noise worrying you. When the oil is hot it expands slightly, so if it is at the full mark when cold it is ok. Engines are not that sensitive to oil levels.

Look at the bottom pinned post "Identifying wheels and parts for an Octavia mk2" Look at the images to identify your wheels.

Personally I would reject both. If you are confident of the level it could be a scam on both counts. I would not go to a dealer for a tyre and you can already have oil. 75% is too round a number to be credible in my opinion.

The length of the bodywork behind the rear wheels is greater on the Octavia than the Leon. This suggests the towbar will not fit. It may look the same but I expect the dimensions are very different.

The idle speed is controlled by the electronic throttle body and timing adjustment both controlled by the ECU. Cleaning the throttle body and checking for vacuum leaks from perished hoses may effect a cure. If you are only getting a small variation in rpm I would suggest living with it if the suggested does not effect a cure. It is not stalling and not effecting the way it drives. The car is over 20 years old and many of the components may have worn away from ideal.

I suspect the Android head unit has an amplifier in it and speaker output connectors. If this is the case the amplifier under the seat needs to be disconnected and the speaker connections run to the output of the head unit.

A 2017 car is a Mk 3 so I would guess it would not fit. You should look for a 2004 to 2013 power steering system.

We need more details on what your car is. Engine etc.

The fact that opening bleed nipple freed off the binding, I suggest changing the flexible brake hoses to both calipers. The inside of the hose can degrade and create a one way valve causing the binding. Also ensure both brakes are free to slide on its pins and the edges of the pads are lubricated to prevent jamming and the brake sticking on.

Standard issue. The window mechanism is mounted on a steel plate with a seal between it an the door structure. The seal does not always work. I have removed the door cards, dried the joint and used silicone sealant around the lower half of the window mechanism. This keeps the water inside the doors, which are a wet area by design. Check the drain holes are clear in the bottom of the doors. You may need to flex the seals out of the way to clear some of them. Incidentally Mk1 Fabias are the same design.

MOT is roadworthiness check. Timing belt, oil pump, gearbox oil is irrelevant. Suspension and brake component wear can be an issue as can emissions. Also if OBD engine warning lights showing it is an issue. If you get advisories they do not need to be done. Any failure items will be clearly documented on the print out you will get. The garage cannot tell you anything else to get an MOT.

Octavias of the age of yours had the buttons built in for phone as you have found, however the bluetooth module was an extra accessory that many people did not purchase. I had a 2011 Elegance that had the same buttons and performed the same as yours. I believe the solution is to fit the bluetooth module, but I never bothered.

The battery is one aspect of the electrical system. Is the alternator giving enough output? If your battery voltage is dipping down it can cause all manner of warning lights to illuminate. I experienced this once. Also check the battery terminals and earth strap are clean and conducting well.

Welcome, however you have posted in the Octavia Mk2 forum, not the Roomster. You do not need a vacuum unit to change the coolant. I expect the heater is air blending so the matrix is in the circuit all the time. It is fine to drain from the bottom of the radiator only. Make the coolant mixture slightly stronger to compensate. Running the engine without the coolant header tank cap to allow air to bled out. If anyone has specific Roomster comments please feel free to comment

I stand corrected. I was not aware these two arrangements dispensed with the throttle body. However both are very expensive solutions to the control issue, and the Multitronic is not very durable.

Yes, however I was trying to give a simple overview without too much detail to blow people's mind. Clearly you a have a deep understanding but many contributors of this forum do not.

Going back to basics a diesel or compression ignition engine is controlled by the amount of fuel injected. In the pre electronics age, the accelerator pedal on a diesel engine was connected to the injection pump and varied the amount of fuel injected. A centrifugal governor increased the amount of fuel injected as speed increased. The amount of fuel was the deciding factor hence no need for a throttle plate restricting airflow. The air fuel mixture is ignited by the heat generated by the relatively high compression ratio. All of the electronic systems are to increase power output and reduce emissions. A petrol or spark ignition engine is controlled by varying the amount of air admitted to the engine and supplied with petrol across a wide range of mixture strengths. The spark supplied at the appropriate time ignites the mixture. Excess fuel or too little fuel means the engine will not run. The best efficiency and power is achieved at a mixture strength of about 14 parts air to 1 of fuel. So close control of the amount of air going into the engine is required to vary the output of the engine. No one has developed a mass market solution to replace the throttle body. All of the electronic systems we see are again to increase power output and reduce emission. This is a short overview. There are many books written on the topic.

The part numbers generally are unique for a part from a specific manufacturer. The logistics scheduling systems struggle to manage to order from two suppliers with the same part number. The SAP system at Bosch could not manage that. As I stated Bosch had the plant in the UK suppling all over Europe so it was original fit. When I visited it was certainly making parts for BMWs that were only built in Germany, amongst many variants.

I would make sure the membrane is sealed properly against water ingress into the car, and if you want sound deadening apply it to the inside of the door card, The door structures change a lot between the different series, I wont say it is impossible but the amount of cutting and fabricating, it is not worth if for the gain. I suspect the door seals are more of an issue for noise now, rather than the membrane.

To clarify VAG group have their own part numbers for their parts that they buy. In this case Bosch have their own part numbers for the assembly and numbers for all the components. Yes Bosch had an alternator factory at Miskin near Cardiff just off the M4. It closed in about 2012 and moved production to Eastern Europe.

The op would probably like to save the joint and he might be able to find a tire fitting place that can use heat to free it rather than struggling himself. I do not use a blowtorch. The one I use is a concentrated heat source the same as oxy acetylene.

JR is mixing bodywork with mechanical work. An angle grinder is a destructive tool and would wreck the tie rod as well. I use heat regularly to free seized parts. I cannot just go and buy a new part for a sixty or seventy year old bus so heat is very important in releasing parts. I use a small gas torch and it is much easier to use especially in confined spaces.

Seized track rod ends usually are not allowing the track rod too move in them. You may need heat to release the track rod end. I would only change the track rod ends In the past tyre fitters use heat to release the track rod end for me. This takes about 10minutes a side. When I experienced this it was done as part of the tracking cost. I would avoid the place that is feeding you this story. They clearly think you have no idea of what is involved. The main reason I would recheck the rear alignment is the lack of competence demonstrated by the garage. Often places with 4 wheel alignment charge you to check the settings and then more to adjust them to the required values. Good luck.