krisp1

What age and specification is your car? I did not think Octavia Mk1 has CANBUS wiring. Single wire mode refers to CANBUS operation in my mind. Also post has been flagged with Amundsen-help. Definitely not fitted to Mk1

I cannot see any reference to using VCDS to bleed the brakes in the Skoda workshop manuals. If the ABS unit has been removed and drained, the valves within need actuation to bleed effectively, otherwise pressure bleeding is effective and is referred to in the Skoda manuals.

The ABS can need activating on some cars to bleed the brakes, not turning off. Bleeding the master cylinder is important, I had almost no brakes until I bled the master cylinder. Start by bleeding master cylinder then all four wheels.

Check your master cylinder, most have bleed nipples on them. Bleed the master cylinder as well. While you are at it bleed the front. I was not aware of the bleed nipples and found them with a bleeding problem.

Something strange going on. Especially given the Octavia is not sold in the USA. I suggest try again another day. In the past I have managed to download the 1.2 engine section. PM me and I will email it to you.

Try again, I have just managed to get to it again. I am in the UK and do not have a VPN.

https://cardiagn.com/skoda-octavia-iii-1-2l-1-4l-1-6l-1-8l-2013-2017-service-repair-manual-wiring/ The website can be a bit troublesome, if you manage to get access it contains the Skoda workshop manual sections, although printing and downloading is not allowed. As you can see below they are genuine Skoda.

I suggest you repost in the Mk2 Octavia section. Mk1 do not have DSG gearboxes.

The clutch and brake hydraulics are a common reservoir. It is a simple case of opening the bleed nipple. If they think it is difficult go and talk to someone else, Their comment suggests a lack of competence. I changed both when I had my Mk 11.

Changing from a diesel to a petrol engine is a non starter. You have to change total running gear, fuel tank, ECUs wiring loom, instrument panel. Sell the car and buy what you want. Your friend has no idea about the size of the issue.

Burning petrol or diesel creates water. Water vapour is a normal part of the exhaust.

2004 has a pedal mounted switch. 2010 is a hall effect on master cylinder as I said above.

From 2006 the handbrake switch is a hall effect sensor mounted underneath the master cylinder. It is very unlikely to be the cause of a flashing glow plug light.

A VW specialist is unlikely to split a gearbox to resolve a leak. You need to find a gearbox specialist to split it and check it over for other issues as well.

Interestingly the Skoda brochure quotes 150bhp, although it is 110Kw, which as you say is 147bhp or 150ps. I know the road tax is painful, I only did about 1000 miles in my 1.8T L & K in the last year, as a second car.

It is a very expensive to tax petrol, 150bhp

If you can identify the relay, I suggest you try swopping it with another, the relay could have faulty contacts that will not allow sufficient current to make the horns work. I believe the relay is a standard one so there should be one to try temporarily.

To be pedantic 17" "Spider" wheels are fitted to the Mk1 VRs hatch. 16" wheels are fitted to MK1 VRs estate. This is according to a Skoda brochure from September 2003.

Mk1 Octavia PCD for wheels is different to Mk2 on. Mk1 is 5 x100. It is the same as Mk4 Golfs and Mk1 TTs (and Audis of same age I think). Mk2 is 5 x 112 and will not fit a Mk1.

Post does not make sense. If it is a TDi how can you change spark plugs! Burning diesel or petrol in an engine creates water. Starting from cold creates water vapour and is more obvious especially when the car has been standing. You may not have a problem.

When the 1.5TSI engine was first introduced there was a lot of complaints about kangarooing when setting off. My Golf I owned at the time with the same engine had a software update to improve the behaviour. I suggest you ask the Skoda dealership to check the software status for the engine and to apply any updates. Also the car should be interrogated for any fault codes in the system. The stop start needs a high charge level in the battery to function and if the car is standing for a while unused it does not surprise me that you have to drive a distance for it to function.

By design the inside of the door is a wet area. There are drain holes at the bottom of the door. Replacing the aperture seals are a cosmetic issue and will not stop water getting into the door cavity.

Given the quality of the work the photos demonstrate, check for the possibility of trapped wires by the engine mount and wash bottle. It is nothing to do with accuracy of timing, it is care of workmanship.

Your wiper issues may be related to trapped wiring. My Mk1 Octavia had washer & wiper issues caused by a timing belt change. An idiot had trapped the wiring under the engine mount causing a short. I suggest you move your washer fluid reservoir to look for trapped wiring. I may be totally wrong however I suggest it is worth a lot.

Saving the cost of a bulb and the effort of fitting it is a worthwhile saving for the manufacturers when building thousands of cars. Many companies employ engineers to implement cost savings. I have had that role at times in my career.