rbhelle

I also suspect that I maybe overfilled the front diff bevwlbox, and if that is the case, the vent valve will release exessive fluid through that, so it could actually be just that.

Well, as topic states, I do believe that my bevel box has a leak. Just did my dsg and no leak detected. Also the leak, and its a substantial one, is probably all over the subframe. Just where the output propelshaft from the bevel box. But cannot locate it exactly until I take down the subframe. Very tight in there. Also, the smellfrom the oil is typically differential oil smell. Well, will take some pics later today. But, if anyone in here have experienced similar symptoms I am more than happy to hear about it. I am afraid that my bevel box is damaged, and that means likely to replace with a used one. In Norway these sells for about 250-350 gbp. So time will show.

Yeah, pretty common sign that the doorlock module is starting to give up due to eol. Also, this is a very common fault on VAG products. Skoda is basically VAG parts all over. So, find out what type of doorlock you have and replace it. Most likely this will over time also effect yiur rear doorlock since they are connected. I replaced mine on a golf mk5 for just under 20 gbp each doorlockmodule. Pretty easy diy, need some special tools. But maybe superb mk2 has access by removing the outer door panel. I havent checked that out yet (golf mk5 and many other vag cars from that period has this procedure)

Well, i do not think that there is major difference from your car and slightly newer. So worth checking out this https://youtu.be/wZpPD68wG4M?si=QMOZ_i-1SZuaklCA

Unfortunately, this seems to be the case yes. Have yout tried search the youtube. I can look it up in Elsawin. Have Superb 2 my self.

Also, if you dont have a concentric slave cylinder, but a regular one, it is easily replaced without need to take down gearbox.

Ahh, this valve I guess. It should be replaceable if thats is what causing the problems. Also just replace the screw itself, these have small holes in the side.

Hope that is it. Inspect the seal to see if it is missing or something is broken/cracked. Unfortunately if the concentric slave cylinder is actually broken, you will need to replace it...and that means the gearbox has to come down. No other way around these concentric fu...s.

See the "rubber" seal here?

Well, yeah sure, the bleed valve seal could be broken. That is just a small rubber grommet, so if you can find a similar it would be an extremely cheap fix....

Sounds more like there is dirt in your system that needs to be flushed out...

Had same issue with my car (2010 Octavia) same system as on a Superb. Anyway, my solution was not only to bleed the whole brake reservoir, but actually to bleed it out so much and for so long that I used almost 2,5ltr of brake fluid. It really took med 30min with wife pumping the clutch pedal to a stop - release on slave cylinder - pump to stop - release and so on. Clutch system can hold a lot of dirt and other things that can clog up the system (clutch shares fluid with brakes). To do this I connected brake bleeding kit with pressure on top of the brake reservoir so the reservoir was always full the whole time. It really took many pump - bleeding process steps and the whole time bad and black fluid came out of the slavecylinder. Lots of dirt and other bad looking brake fluid. Kept it up until clear brake fluid came out. It was actally so dirty that it almost clogged up the clutch pedal. Oh, and yes I first did bled all 4 calipers so much that only clear brake fluid came out there as well. I used more than 1 ltr of brake fluid on that job to, just to make sure that all calipers were totally clean. If I were you, I would try this on your car. Brake fluid is really inexpensive and buy yourself 3-4 liters of it and do a full flush. Maybe your clogged up clutch system will eventually be clean. I know that many other with same clutch problem have done this with success. The Indy will likely tell you that the concentric slave cylinder or clutch is maybe broken and needs replacement. But believe me, spending 30-40 GBP on brake fluid is much cheaper than a total clutch replacement.

CFFB and CFGB doesn't have this glow plug as far as I know from oe manufacturers partslist. These are 2.0tdi diesel engines.

It worked, have your car VIN in partslink24.com. All parts... 🙂

Hmm, I do believe that LuK flywheel bolts are included in set, but yes, good to verify. Trims are nice to check in partslink. But also, when you have access. Make sure to write down all servicable partnumbers for future use. Can come in handy. Utilize maximum out of the days access!

@G1980 But what part do you need to check out? Maybe I can log in and check for you if your vin will work...Partslink for me is for norwegian cars, never tried foreign..but worth a shot

Well, yeah it is worth it, but maybe not for one specific part. I guess you can get that from dealer. But if you plan do do more and diy in the future, it is very well worth it. Its pricy for only 1 part....

I replaced both my thermostats at home. Easy work, and I just replaced the dsg thermostat since a Febi Bilstein one is rather cheap. Then I know that car is properly done. Engine coolant now stays steady at approx 90C and dsg temp around 85-90C as well. Oil temps around 90-120C depends on load etc. Also heat in cabin works as supposed to.

This is written in a friendly steam, ok? 🙂First of all, you need to specify what type of dsg gearbox you have, is it a dq250, dq381 wich is wetclutch or is it a dry clutch box dq200. Second, it would help if the picture actually shows detailed info that is stamped on the bottle. Third, if you are not aware of anything of what I am talking about, I would highly recommend you to maybe consider get your local dealer/a close friend, to guide you or maybe even do the job. Also, there are superb guides on this forum to help you identify what, how and where, when it comes to a dsg oil service mate.

Black is the correct oem one

Impossible to say without clear sight of specs on the bottle. Meyle has many different oils and kit

Check rosstech forum and website. Many documented stuff for mk2 there.

2011 superb 2.0tdi. Did not work and nothing happened when pushing the rear heated window button. I suspected cables, but checked fuses and relay first. It was the cable. Cables run from upper right post rear and it was a easy fix. I took down inner trim panels on the rear lid (combi). Unscrew torx 20 at the handle and then use a trim tool to push down on sides. Extremely easy to do. Gives you superb access to everything inside. Cut the wires and reconnect. Fixed and now heated window works again.

Some more pic

Dual mass flywheel done! Omg, what a ****ty job! Doing this on a dsg 6spd dq250 on a 4x4 drive car is not for the fainthearted I must say. Especially since the dsg box with the angle box is quite heavy. It is not necessary to split the angle box from the gearbox. They come down as a whole. Just remember to assemble it with the anglebox adapter in place before you connect gearbox back. If you forget....good luck (no need to remove the adapter anyway). In total I spent approx 13-14 hours effective. The egr cooler takes time, dsg oilservice takes time, coolant takes time and so on. It just add up to the total. Also, preparing tools finding them etc takes time 😄 So, next time I do this, I will estimate a weekends work aka no other plans for the weekend just to be sure. Some nuts will need cutting, som bolts need cutting etc. Well, please ask questions if someone need help. I have actually done it and now how labour intensive it is.