Steinrawr

So. I've been looking around, trying to input any of my info on MIB-helper, to find newer software for my Skoda Rapid. But i think this is not a MIB-system? The radio has a few Bluetooth connectivity bugs, and i suspect it might be on original software. Hoping an update can fix it, but i simply can't find any information on this for my system. My system language is norwegian, sorry, see attached photos. This is the info in the photos: 5JA 035 192 J software version: 0410 System firmware version: H76 Nav Map version: 3AA919866 Nav data version: 0055 Nav data media: EUR_W_V5 I think this is the Amundsen (+ ?). Is there any places to download newer software, if available? Maybe there is a guide, or any info on this system somewhere on the internet?

I was just quoted £700 to do this update at the dealer... So I'm planning on doing it myself now, looks like the latest official update is 332? Has anyone tried that? I'm on version 270, and some posts I've seen around da webb claims going through 308-330-332 will work. Should i just skip 324? And the VCDS- 1555 error in 5F, is there anything special for me to take into consideration here? I tried looking around and searching briskoda, but couldn't find anything about this? (maybe my search skills are not as good as I think...)

Ah, English is not my first language. I listed things a little quick and changed the sentence without realising i wrote the egr too. AS far as i know the egr doesn't affect oil usage, but when youve first accessed it to do work on the turbo and dpf, theres no point in not adressing it as it is common to get clogged.

So, for anyone finding this in the future: Oil ash can not be removed by regnerating and will build up a little more by every regen. You need to have the dpf professionally cleaned (it needs to be removed from the car) or replaced. If the car is using oil, its practically pointless doing anything about it, because your new dpf will only be filled with oil aah again. With some luck, an egr clean and new turbo can reduce oil usage enough for it to live significantly longer. For me, thats more expensive than a new used car. Good luck to us all.

Thanks for the replies. Sounds very expensive to change turbo and EGR along with the DPF, the total is sneaking up on the value of the car for parts an labour here in Norway :( I could do it myself.. but i only have short time acess to a garage with a lift at work. The EGR and Turbo on theese will require the whole front travers assembly and gearbox to be lovered, right? I could take out the DPF and deliver it at a specialist to get it cleaned, but i suspect that will also only be temporary. Today I did a longer drive, Though only 2x60 km, low gear, for the most part between 70-90 km/h, and measured the oil ash mass again, still over 80g. I even added some DPF clean additive to the diesel tank before the drive (Even though I strongly suspect this additive is snake oil).

Yes, I wish i could do that more often, but i live a place with rural winter roads and no highways, and driving it hard like that is not risk free. Id rather change the dpf than have a totalled car. I did several long hauls with a 2t trailer (1200km++) this summer, but it didn't change anything on its behaviour, so im guessing it might be too late already. I get the dpf warning light now and then, and been doing so for about a years time, and did exactly what you suggested on dry summer roads. Ill see if I can find something to aid the dpf regen to make it last a little longer, at least until i can replace it.

Octavia Scout 2015, 2.0TDI 184HP, 325.000km Hello folks! I just need to get something confirmed: Is my DPF done? So.. Practically every time i drive it it regenerates, and the fan is blowing for 3-10 minutes after stopping 9/10 times. I'ts in use almost every day, but is driven only for 10 minutes at the time for one week, and then 1h at the time every day the other week. I'm suspecting I will have reduced motor power in a not very long time. I did a readout of adv. values in VCDS: Oil ash mass: 80,3g Oil ash mass limit: 80.00g Fuel consumption since last regen: 4,45l Time since last regen: 9772s (2,7h) Photos of relevant readouts attached. Any disadvantages of getting a DPF-delete? I live in Norway, and removing it will practically make it illegal. But very unlikely to be discovered, until it becomes a regular check-point in the EU-control. Should I just buy a new one? Used one? Any point in getting a DPF-clean? Any reccomandations will be appreciated.

Thank you for the feedback, I will definitely see if I can get the oils changed. But AFAIK, Paws4Thot, there's drainplugs on this gearbox and mechatronic, or do you know otherwise? My point with skoda dealerships was only that they don't do oil changes, and reccomend you don't do it at all. I took a readout on VCDS, and found a fault code that might be relevant: 1 Fault Found: 18118 - Fuel Quality P30C0 00 [00101000] - Inadequate Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Mileage: 262940 km Date: 2025.07.25. Time: 11:09:31 Engine RPM: 1311.00 /min Normed load value: 48.6 % Vehicle speed: 64 km/h Coolant temperature: 93 C Intake air temperature: 34 C Ambient air pressure: 990 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 14.442 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 7 Mass flow through throttle valve: 52.9 kg/h Mean injection time: 3.120 ms Engine operating condition: Part throttle Engine operating condition-Test_Program_Channel 87: 6 Readiness: 0000 0000 The funny thing is, at the time the fault code was "stamped" 11:09, the car was parked at work, and I was 300km away. (yes, the times are correct) For good measure, this is the advanced readout on the auto-trans: Friday,25,July,2025,20:36:22:35578 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 11 x64 VCDS Version: 24.7.1.0 (x64) HEX-V2 CB: 0.4643.4 Data version: 20240919 DS356.3 www.Ross-Tech.com Workshop Code: 210 01369 040505 Address 02: Auto Trans Control Module Part Number: 0AM 300 062 M Component and/or Version: GSG DSG AG7 431 6561 Software Coding: 0000020 Work Shop Code: WSC 51729 VCID: 36352A8FC44FD21AB57-8062 Advanced Identification Serial number: CU501401155558 Identification: CU5-001 Revision: 00043014 Date: 15.01.14 Test stand number: 0000 Manufacturer number: 5558 Flash Status Programming Attempts: 4 Successful Attempts: 4 Programming Status: 00000000 Required Conditions: 00000000 Flash Tool Code: 15728640 001 51729 Flash Date: 09.14.39 Software 0019 Misc. Hardware number: 0AM 927 769 D Lot Number: D20 Type Lock: 000 VCDS Info: VCID: 36352A8FC44FD21AB57-8062 Labels: 0AM-927-769.CLB

I cant really answer theese questions, but the official Skoda dealerships here in Norway has all said the same thing. "there's no service interval for your gearbox, the oil is ment to last the lifetime of the car". They also dont want to change it, but i am competent to change the oil myself, I just cant pinpoint the oil itself as the culprit, and therefore haven't bothered. Maybe i should just change it soner rather than later.

Drar friends! My 1.4 TSI rapid from 2014 with 265000 km on the odo is a ring a little up on me. I ksnsow there are some known problems with the q200 gearbox (im 90% that's the one i have), but i truing to find out what problem my symptoms are indicating. The car sometimes shifts a little hard down on certain gears, especially from 3rd to 2nd,and sometimes struggles to go from 2nd to -3rd and then to 4th. Today, while driving to work, it almost seemed like it was stuck in 4th all the way. On deacceleration it bogged and bogged until it hard shifted to 2nd. Manually selecting gears didn't work at all on this particular drive. On my way home, it was like nothing had ever been wrong at all, im going to read out codes with vcds soon, but the last time this happened, there were no relevant codes. Any suggestions or feedback on what this could be would be appreciated. Skoda dealership has told me they dont change oils on the mechatronic or gearbox on theese models at all, so im fairly certain it got all original oil in mechatronic and gearbox.

Cant really say im anything but satisfied with the parts I got. No problems so far but had to reuse the bolts for the flange, as the new ones where three times to long. Center drive axle shaft bolt had different head size on my parts, so one could be installed with a standard 6p 27mm pipe, but the other needed a 12p 24mm pipe. Ive only driven around a year on theese axles though, wo cant really say anything for sure, but as far as ive heard, brand/quality might give you several years more use compared to the cheaper alternatives. Bedt of luck to you. The job itself was fairly easy.

So, since VAG for some reason has two different cable diameters on the car harness and antenna, it wasnt very easy replacing the connectors. I removed almost 15cm of the cable to not have too corroded wires in the connectors... Since the connectors needed to be for different diameters, i ended up splicing the wires to the old antenna, while I wait for a new one. Now I have dab+ radio again, but i think i will need to replace more cable and find the correct connectors for the car harness when i get it.

Yes! CV-joints. For me it was way easier and cheaper to replace the axles as a whole rather than fixing all the individual joints.

Just to add a few images to show the corrotion. This is FAKRA connectors, right? Im going to try to just change the connectors first, and then the antenna base if it doesn't help.

I had a smiliar problem, and I had faulty joints on all drive axles. Problem was terrible under load, but less noticable in lower speeds and when coasting. All 8 joints on drive axles were completely dry and no grease letf at all. There were only pin hole sized damage on them. I still have a slight vibration left, but it only occurs when engine and gearbox is cold and around 65-85km/h.

Ok, so i dismantled my antenna. It was fairly easy. Roof liner had to come partway out, remove 22mm nut and two connectors and just lift it out. It was badly corroded, and i even had very clear signs of water ingress through the antenna base. Both connectors were also very corroded inside. Part number for base is 6r0035501a And it seems to be very expensive...

So, the end of it was that the matrix failed. It was clogged from about halfway across. Took a little hour to swap it. Plenty of space with the knee airbag removed and fairly easy actually. O-rings and clamps looked very good, so i kept them. Tip to anyone finding this, is to remove the coolant hose behind the right front wheel to practically remove everything in the system before disasmbling.

Yeah, thanks. I just tried manually adjusting all flaps on full fan speed, with not even slightly warmer air at all on the passenger side. Also Just spoke to a friend with similar symptoms. His golf had a blocked matrix, I just ordered a new one myself, just hoping it will fit.

So.. The silica bag was intact, and my coolant was not at all cloudy or indicating any contaminants. I removed it from my reservoar, and replaced the reservoar with one without the bag. Im starting to doubt it's the heater matrix, but at the same time I dont understand why i have the problems since I can see all parts move under the dash. Will a faulty temp sensor be able to force down the temp on the passenger side?

I've tried finding a replacement FM/DAB antenna for our 2014 Skoda rapid spaceback. But I can't seem to find it. Any help is appreciated. I've read about the antennas in various forums, and it seems to be prone to corrosion. Does anyone know what part.no the oem antenna is? Or know about a suitable replacement? Theese are my fault codes.

OK, so i might be jinxing it... But I think I solved it, thanks to @Oztony. I checked the wire loom around the coils, and behold... On cyl1, I could replicate misfires by wiggling the wires. I took off the connector and checked the wire, wire was fine, but the whole connector was a little loose inside, and the metal parts didn't mate snuggly, so I gave them a sqeeze and reassembled. Couldnt replicate the fault by wiggling the wires any more. So far so good, did a little test drive and had the car idle for a while, now I just have to reset the DTCs when I get home from night shift at work. I'm crossing my fingers that was it.

Thanks, thats very helpful. My battery is in very good condition, and the car is mainly driven for over an hour for each ride. I swapped all the coils and plugs, but made sure to not pull anything, previous owners could have fugged it up though.

So. Did a lot of testing today, and i cant see any flaps not moving correctly. When using vcds to test the Recirculated Air Flap it moves without issues, and test values indicates it functions just as the left flaps. All values are identical left and right when using vcds to measure. But... Dtcs just come back. I tried checking the silica bag, but i have the closed chamber type of reservoar, so cant just take it out or inspect it before i get the reservoar replacement.

Thanks for the advice! I think I will go through that too. What specifically did you notice on your harness? Broken insulators? Loose connectors? It might be random, but i think my car is at its worst on less than half a tank, which makes me think fuel filter could be a culprit too. Ive driven it four days (150 km a day), and on the fourth day it passes half a tank and the problems came again. They do dissappear after turning the ignition off and on again though. Getting tired of this ****. 🥲

I see. It would just be Odd to me, that both has happened at the same time. Didn't get time to look at the car this weekend after all, so will have to wait to see what I can do.